Northern India
Bharatpur, Corbett & Nainital
Thursday 26 November - Friday 11 December 2009 (16 days)
From the magic of Bharatpur's wetlands and the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, we travel across the Gangetic plain, with a chance of Gharial crocodiles and Ganges River Dolphins, to the Himalayan foothills, with the wonderful grasslands and forests of Corbett National Park and the spectacular hill station of Nainital. Join us for a classic Indian journey!
© David Dennis/Nature Portfolio
Lammergeier
Few destinations on Earth are more compelling than the Indian subcontinent. A vast, colourful and crowded land, yet possessing some of the most spectacular wildlife in all Asia, India today offers perhaps the most memorable of travel experiences anywhere in the world. Our classic Northern India tour is designed to show you a fabulous cross-section of India's birds and wildlife at some of its most famous and exciting sites.
The magic begins at celebrated Bharatpur. Time stands still on our first morning's walk here (and we won't get very far either!) as wintering Siberian birds abound. Bluethroats run across the paths and the acacias positively hum with restless Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers. But, if the summer rains have been good, it is the abundance of Bharatpur's wetland species that really takes centre stage. Huge Sarus Cranes and Black-necked Storks mingle with flocks of Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, whilst all about there is a hubbub of activity from myriad other waterbirds.
No stay in the plains would be complete without a pilgrimage to the most famous of India's cultural sites, and we'll enjoy a morning sightseeing at Agra and the sublime Taj Mahal. Later, on the Chambal River, Indian Skimmer and Great Thick-knee await, while our boat trip here could produce the rare Ganges River Dolphin, too.
Leaving the plains, we journey north to the foothills of the Himalayas. Encompassing 520 sq. kms of riverine grassland and forest, Corbett is India's oldest national park. While the setting is superb, the sheer variety of bird life is astounding; more than 500 species have been recorded! Asian Elephants roam the woodlands and birds to watch for include a positive bedazzlement of songbirds as well as some really special treats, such as Pallas's Fish Eagle and Crested Kingfisher.
Pausing to look for Wallcreeper as we go, next we ascend to the spectacular old hill-station of Nainital. Standing beside an ice-cold lake, Nainital seemingly perches on the very edge of the world. Here, the Blue Whistling Thrush holds court as we search the woodlands and mountainsides for Altai Accentor, Lammergeier, Black-headed Jay and a host of other wonderful Himalayan birds to round off our tour in style.
Peter Kennerley is a veteran of more than a dozen visits to the Indian subcontinent. Why not join him this year, as we return to the bird-rich marshes, mountains and jungles of Northern India.
Price:
£ 2,995
Single supps.:
£ 335
Deposit: £ 400 per person
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return scheduled flights London-Delhi; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by bus and train (some excursions by bicycle-rickshaw at Bharatpur and 4WD vehicle and/or elephant at Corbett National Park), as outlined above; boat trip on Chambal River; entrance fees to parks and monuments; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.
The price excludes visa costs (c£30), travel insurance, drinks and other personal expenses.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.
Principal Leader: Peter Kennerley
© Elliot Neep/Nature Portfolio
Openbill Stork
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2
We take the British Airways overnight flight from London, direct to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi on morning of Day 2, where we shall be met by our local guide and board our bus for the journey south to Bharatpur.
As we pass through the busy outskirts of the capital, we may experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Bank and Common Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws, Oriental Magpie-robins sit up boldly atop rooftops and walls, and the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. Soon we are travelling through a rural landscape of bustling villages, passing a myriad of roadside pools adorned with Black-winged Stilts, Red-wattled Lapwings and House Crows.
It's about a four-hour drive to Bharatpur, which will be our base for a three-night stay. As the afternoon heat subsides, we'll pay a first visit to the world famous Keoladeo Sanctuary - better known simply as 'Bharatpur' - for a first look at its magical wetlands.
Overnight Bharatpur
Days 3 - 4
During the next two days, we will explore this fabulously rich but surprisingly compact reserve, covering most of the different habitats and their associated birds as well as searching for a number of local and, in many cases, elusive species.
It is Bharatpur's waterbirds that are its crowning glory, often crowding onto the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle freely with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar species. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the marshy shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-throated Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Black Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill.
The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can hope to encounter Steppe, Tawny, Eastern Imperial, Booted, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Western Marsh Harrier - and probably many more.
Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common here and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are fortunate we may dig out a handsome Greater Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident here. In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialities as Yellow-crowned and Indian Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Eagle Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, Marshall's Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but highly desirable species. The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Woodshrike, White-eared Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet! Two nights Bharatpur.
[Note: In the event the summer monsoon rains have failed and Bharatpur's water is depleted, on one day we have the option to visit the Bund Bharetha reservoir for wetland birds, spending the remainder of our time at Bharatpur exploring the wealth of other outstanding bird-rich habitats to be found within the remarkable Keoladeo Sanctuary.]
Day 5
Leaving Bharatpur early this morning, we head directly to Agra and the Taj Mahal (about an hour's drive away), so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of tourists start to arrive. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of this magnificent building - constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring, and one that never disappoints.
Once we have taken our fill of this marvel of Moghul architecture, we will check the adjacent Yamuna River, where birds abound. Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures are constantly in view overhead, while along the riverbanks we will see many waders, gulls and terns including Red-wattled and River Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, Brown-headed Gull and River Tern. The nearby scrub and manicured gardens are home to Indian Grey Hornbill, Little Green Bee-eaters, Rose-ringed and huge Alexandrine Parakeets, Spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Barbet and Laughing Dove, while inquisitive little Palm Squirrels scamper about our feet in the search for tourist handouts. If we are lucky, we may watch a Laggar hunting feral pigeons above the city.
A ninety-minute drive will carry us from Agra to our next stop, Chambal Safari Lodge. Situated next to the National Chambal Sanctuary, this pristine stretch of the Chambal River supports a rich and varied ecosystem - a habitat which, regrettably, is becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many of these threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent. In November, the water levels are good, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We'll spend our first afternoon at Chambal exploring this area on foot, then take a boat trip out onto the river the following morning.
During our stay here, we will be treated to some marvellous birds that do not occur at Bharatpur (or elsewhere) on this tour. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now sadly a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should have no difficulty in seeing this wonderful species. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Little Pratincoles, Great Thick-knees and the monstrous Great Black-headed Gull are among other key species to look forward to at Chambal, while along the river we shall encounter a long list of other waterbirds too - from Little and Great Cormorants, Lesser Whistling-duck and Bar-headed Goose to Ruddy Shelduck, Comb Duck and the more familiar Red-crested Pochard.
We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial (a large fish-eating crocodile) and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with turtles and possibly river otters. If we are fortunate, we may also come across the endangered Ganges River Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of northern India's rivers.
We'll watch for Sand Lark beside the river, where waders are likely to include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Martins wheel overhead as we check the skies for Osprey, Steppe Eagle and possibly Pallas's Fish Eagle. Turning inland, we can explore the nearby scrub and dry forest for many species typical of northern India, including Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Barn and Wire-tailed Swallows, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more.
Overnight Chambal Safari Lodge
Day 6
This morning we take our boat safari along the Chambal River, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective, and marvelling at the grace and elegance of the skimmers as they dash past our boat. This is such a delightful location that it will be difficult to tear ourselves away. Before we do so, however, we will take lunch at our lodge.
Although much of the afternoon is taken up with the drive to the railway station at Mathura, we will make stops along the way, perhaps to watch a White-eyed Buzzard or a flock of Indian White-backed Vultures Ð once abundant, the latter is sadly now an extremely rare and erratic sight throughout the subcontinent. In the evening, we board the Kumaon Express, the overnight sleeper train that will carry us north across the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain to Lalkuan - near the world famous Corbett National Park - where we arrive the following morning.
Overnight on board train travelling north
Days 7 - 10
We shall be met on arrival at Lalkuan railway station this morning and make the two-hour drive north to Kumeria, on the doorstep of India's oldest and finest national park, Corbett. Extending over 520 square kilometres, Corbett is simply vast! This classic tract of wild India has a special beauty that is vividly described in The Maneaters of Kumaon and other books by Jim Corbett, after whom the park is named. Accommodation within the park itself is extremely limited and to make the most of our four-night stay here we shall spend two nights at Corbett Hideaway, on the edge of the park, followed by two nights at Dhikala Lodge, right at the very heart of this magnificent reserve. In addition to providing unsurpassed birding and wildlife opportunities, the standard of guest accommodation at Dhikala has recently been upgraded and is now much improved.
The forested foothills of Corbett National Park are home to over 400 bird species as well as a healthy population of mammals, including Tigers, Leopards, Asian Elephants, deer including Sambar and Chital, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Sloth Bear, the striking and diurnal Yellow-throated Marten, Indian Crested Porcupine and both Terai Grey Langur and Rhesus Macaque. At the centre of the park lies Ramganga Lake and its surrounding grasslands, which form a haven for wildlife. Good numbers of the larger mammals are also attracted to this stunningly beautiful lake.
From our lodges, we can explore the fringes of Corbett's magnificent Sal forests and search for some of the park's shyer and more elusive birds such as White-tailed Rubythroat, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Aberrant Bush Warbler. Parties of maniacal White-crested Laughingthrushes crash through the undergrowth while, over our heads, the diminutive Collared Falconet hunts small birds. With luck we may find a Brown Fish Owl roosting by a quiet stream, or even its larger relative, the huge Tawny Fish Owl. Along the Kosi River, impressive Crested Kingfishers pause and dive in search of an unfortunate fish; Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts flit over the boulders, often joined by dapper Spotted and Little Forktails and plump Brown Dippers. With luck, an exquisite Wallcreeper may be foraging along the cliffs or even amongst the boulders of the riverbed itself.
But we can only venture into the depths of the jungle by jeep! As we enter the gloomy forests, the stillness may be broken by the raucous bugle of an advertising Indian Peafowl, or the barking alarm call of a nervous Chital alerting us to the possibility of a Tiger! Within the park, we are likely to encounter small parties of Kalij Pheasant and Red Junglefowl as they scurry from the roadside at the approach of our vehicles. Our time here will pass all too quickly as we encounter much of what makes Corbett so special. Exciting birds such as Pallas's Fish Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagles, Plum-headed Parakeet, Common Hawk-cuckoo and Crested Treeswift are widespread residents, while wave after wave of babblers and many wintering Palearctic migrants are sure to make this a most exciting stay.
The grasslands at Dhikala overlook the attractive Ramganga Lake. As the eerie, skeletal forms of drowned trees emerge from the morning mists with their attendant raptors, darters and egrets, some of the birds we may encounter include Black Stork, Brahminy Kite, Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagles, Black Francolin, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Lesser Coucal, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Jungle Owlet and Blue-bearded Bee-eater, the latter with its gruff, barking call sounding quite unlike any bee-eater you have heard before! We shall also watch Oriental Pied and the huge Great Hornbill, along with Lineated, Brown-headed, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Streak-throated, Grey-faced, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers, Large Woodshrike, Large Cuckooshrike, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Yellow-eyed Babblers, Rufous-gorgeted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, White-throated Fantail, Grey-breasted Prinia, Tickell's Leaf and Smoky Warblers, Indian Robin and Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches.
If we are very fortunate, we may find the sought-after Hodgson's Bushchat, perching on the taller grass near the lake. Almost a third larger than the familiar Stonechat, this increasingly rare and declining chat is a winter visitor here from its breeding grounds in western Mongolia, and in recent years has become one of Corbett's star attractions. Indeed, Corbett's grasslands are probably now the easiest site on our planet at which to watch them, and our drivers will often know the best places in which to seek them out.
Two nights Corbett Hideaway, two nights Dhikala Lodge, Corbett National Park.
Day 11
After enjoying some final birding at Corbett, we will climb slowly (by bus!) into the foothills of the western Himalayas, birding as we go amid some splendidly scenic countryside. As we ascend, the vegetation gradually changes from dry deciduous forest to light coniferous woodland, introducing us to yet another fascinating and equally diverse avifauna. Wallcreeper, Jungle Myna and Crested Bunting are among possibilities today before we arrive at our hotel in the picturesque lakeside town of Nainital, at the start of an exciting four-night stay.
Now somewhat jaded, this famous hill station was once the summer home for the British ruling establishment during the days of the Raj, providing a refreshing, cool retreat from the oppressive pre-monsoon heat of the Indian plains. It is also home to a surprisingly diverse selection of hill birds, many unique to the western Himalayas. Even within this well-wooded town, we are likely to encounter many of the commoner foothill species and the likes of Bar-winged Flycatchershrike, Himalayan Bulbul, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Spot-winged, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Himalayan Bluetail, Olive-backed Pipit, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted Redstarts and the shy Slaty-blue Flycatcher await.
On a clear day, the view from the pine-clad ridges above Nainital is nothing short of breathtaking! Gazing out across the snow-capped giants towards China and Tibet, we may just be able to see the crest of Nanda Devi, at 7816m, India's highest peak.
Overnight Nainital
Days 12 - 14
We have three full days to enjoy the outstanding birding around the hill station of Nainital. Situated at an elevation of nearly 2000m, and surrounded by peaks that rise to over 2600m, this popular mountain resort offers spectacular vistas - and a bird list to match. Here in the western Himalayas, the climate is cooler and drier than the forests to the east in Nepal and Bhutan and, because of their more northerly latitude, are home to many species that occur here but no further to the east. The birdlife here is also very different to Corbett and the lowland plains.
After initially exploring the parks, gardens and scrub around the edge of town, we will travel out each day to visit the best birding locations: Sat Tal, Mangoli Valley, Kuprital Valley and Snow View, each with its own special birds. During our stay at Nainital, Himalayan Griffon, Great Barbet, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Golden Bush Robin and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker are just a few of the many highlights amongst an impressive list of upland species we hope to see.
Visits to Sat Tal and the Kuprital Valley should produce these and many other delights too, with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, White-tailed Rubythroat, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Black-headed Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting among many to look forward to. We should regularly hear the monotonous call of the endearing Collared Owlet and, by imitating it, we can often bring in small flocks of passerines, intent on mobbing their number one avian predator. With luck, the owl itself may appear, being mobbed by a crowd of angry tits and warblers! Other highlights may include a wintering Chestnut Thrush feeding in a darkened gully or the discovery of a wintering flock of Altai Accentors foraging on a roadside slope. There really is so much to see here and our three days should provide a most enjoyable and relaxing finale to this wonderful region.
Three nights Nainital
Day 15
Leaving Nainital this morning, we drive back down to the Gangetic plain and make our way slowly back to Delhi. We will pause along the way to watch and photograph aspects of unhurried village life. On reaching the mighty River Ganges, we will reflect that this is revered as holy by Hindus, and is the site of innumerable cremations. We have a further chance to possibly catch a glimpse of the elusive Ganges River Dolphin in its murky waters, or to watch a flock of Indian Skimmers roosting on a sand bar - though such sights are now, sadly, becoming increasingly infrequent. Although we shall enjoy some birds today, this is mainly a day for travelling, with time to sit back and enjoy the bustling Indian countryside and to reflect upon the vivid memories and rich experiences of a wonderful holiday.
Evening arrival in Delhi and transfer to an airport hotel for dinner. We have the use of day rooms here to refresh and repack tonight ahead of our transfer back to the airport for our flight home.
Day 16
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 16, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We stay at a mixture of comfortable tourist hotels and simple but best available lodges, all rooms with en suite facilities.
Rail travel is the best way to cover large distances in India and so one night of our tour is spent aboard the Kumaon Express, an overnight sleeping-car train, travelling north from Mathura to Lalkuan. Accommodation on board is in second class, air-conditioned carriages (the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each carriage is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note: we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which is controlled entirely by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts and dinners usually taken at the hotels and lodges. Lunches will be picnics or sit-down meals, according to location.
Walking: Easy. As one would expect, however, there are a few moderate uphill walks in the mountains at Nainital. Here we will be birding up to an altitude of approx. 2500m (8000ft). Owing to the presence of large mammals at Corbett, note that some of our birding here must be done from the vehicle - or elephant-back. Comfy walking shoes or lightweight boots with corrugated soles for grip recommended.
Weather: We visit during the 'cool season', when most days around Delhi and Bharatpur are usually warm-hot, dry and sunny. In Delhi, average November temperatures range from 8-29ûC, but it can feel chilly at night. Note that in the mountains at Nainital, it can be really cold, especially at night and in the early mornings and evenings, when layers of warm clothes including hat, gloves and scarf will be required.
Flights: We use the scheduled services of British Airways, from London direct to Delhi.
Transport: Travel mostly by coach (or minibus depending on final group size); excursions into Bharatpur are by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot, as vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve. In Corbett National Park, we will travel by 4WD vehicle - or even elephant (subject to availability and programme). All visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are too great, too slow or too congested (often all three!) to cover by road, making rail by far the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. To save a long, hot and dusty drive when we transfer north from the plains, there is one rail journey on this tour, travelling overnight on the Kumaon Express from Mathura to Lalkuan in air-conditioned sleeper carriages (see above).
Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-2.5 hours.
Photos: Good opportunistic photographic opportunities - birds, mammals, scenic and cultural.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients
Days 1 - 2
We take the British Airways overnight flight from London, direct to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi on morning of Day 2, where we shall be met by our local guide and board our bus for the journey south to Bharatpur.
As we pass through the busy outskirts of the capital, we may experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Bank and Common Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws, Oriental Magpie-robins sit up boldly atop rooftops and walls, and the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. Soon we are travelling through a rural landscape of bustling villages, passing a myriad of roadside pools adorned with Black-winged Stilts, Red-wattled Lapwings and House Crows.
It's about a four-hour drive to Bharatpur, which will be our base for a three-night stay. As the afternoon heat subsides, we'll pay a first visit to the world famous Keoladeo Sanctuary - better known simply as 'Bharatpur' - for a first look at its magical wetlands.
Overnight Bharatpur
Days 3 - 4
During the next two days, we will explore this fabulously rich but surprisingly compact reserve, covering most of the different habitats and their associated birds as well as searching for a number of local and, in many cases, elusive species.
It is Bharatpur's waterbirds that are its crowning glory, often crowding onto the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle freely with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar species. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the marshy shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-throated Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Black Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill.
The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can hope to encounter Steppe, Tawny, Eastern Imperial, Booted, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Western Marsh Harrier - and probably many more.
Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common here and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are fortunate we may dig out a handsome Greater Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident here. In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialities as Yellow-crowned and Indian Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Eagle Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, Marshall's Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but highly desirable species. The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Woodshrike, White-eared Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet! Two nights Bharatpur.
[Note: In the event the summer monsoon rains have failed and Bharatpur's water is depleted, on one day we have the option to visit the Bund Bharetha reservoir for wetland birds, spending the remainder of our time at Bharatpur exploring the wealth of other outstanding bird-rich habitats to be found within the remarkable Keoladeo Sanctuary.]
Day 5
Leaving Bharatpur early this morning, we head directly to Agra and the Taj Mahal (about an hour's drive away), so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of tourists start to arrive. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of this magnificent building - constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring, and one that never disappoints.
Once we have taken our fill of this marvel of Moghul architecture, we will check the adjacent Yamuna River, where birds abound. Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures are constantly in view overhead, while along the riverbanks we will see many waders, gulls and terns including Red-wattled and River Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, Brown-headed Gull and River Tern. The nearby scrub and manicured gardens are home to Indian Grey Hornbill, Little Green Bee-eaters, Rose-ringed and huge Alexandrine Parakeets, Spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Barbet and Laughing Dove, while inquisitive little Palm Squirrels scamper about our feet in the search for tourist handouts. If we are lucky, we may watch a Laggar hunting feral pigeons above the city.
A ninety-minute drive will carry us from Agra to our next stop, Chambal Safari Lodge. Situated next to the National Chambal Sanctuary, this pristine stretch of the Chambal River supports a rich and varied ecosystem - a habitat which, regrettably, is becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many of these threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent. In November, the water levels are good, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We'll spend our first afternoon at Chambal exploring this area on foot, then take a boat trip out onto the river the following morning.
During our stay here, we will be treated to some marvellous birds that do not occur at Bharatpur (or elsewhere) on this tour. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now sadly a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should have no difficulty in seeing this wonderful species. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Little Pratincoles, Great Thick-knees and the monstrous Great Black-headed Gull are among other key species to look forward to at Chambal, while along the river we shall encounter a long list of other waterbirds too - from Little and Great Cormorants, Lesser Whistling-duck and Bar-headed Goose to Ruddy Shelduck, Comb Duck and the more familiar Red-crested Pochard.
We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial (a large fish-eating crocodile) and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with turtles and possibly river otters. If we are fortunate, we may also come across the endangered Ganges River Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of northern India's rivers.
We'll watch for Sand Lark beside the river, where waders are likely to include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Martins wheel overhead as we check the skies for Osprey, Steppe Eagle and possibly Pallas's Fish Eagle. Turning inland, we can explore the nearby scrub and dry forest for many species typical of northern India, including Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Barn and Wire-tailed Swallows, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more.
Overnight Chambal Safari Lodge
Day 6
This morning we take our boat safari along the Chambal River, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective, and marvelling at the grace and elegance of the skimmers as they dash past our boat. This is such a delightful location that it will be difficult to tear ourselves away. Before we do so, however, we will take lunch at our lodge.
Although much of the afternoon is taken up with the drive to the railway station at Mathura, we will make stops along the way, perhaps to watch a White-eyed Buzzard or a flock of Indian White-backed Vultures Ð once abundant, the latter is sadly now an extremely rare and erratic sight throughout the subcontinent. In the evening, we board the Kumaon Express, the overnight sleeper train that will carry us north across the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain to Lalkuan - near the world famous Corbett National Park - where we arrive the following morning.
Overnight on board train travelling north
Days 7 - 10
We shall be met on arrival at Lalkuan railway station this morning and make the two-hour drive north to Kumeria, on the doorstep of India's oldest and finest national park, Corbett. Extending over 520 square kilometres, Corbett is simply vast! This classic tract of wild India has a special beauty that is vividly described in The Maneaters of Kumaon and other books by Jim Corbett, after whom the park is named. Accommodation within the park itself is extremely limited and to make the most of our four-night stay here we shall spend two nights at Corbett Hideaway, on the edge of the park, followed by two nights at Dhikala Lodge, right at the very heart of this magnificent reserve. In addition to providing unsurpassed birding and wildlife opportunities, the standard of guest accommodation at Dhikala has recently been upgraded and is now much improved.
The forested foothills of Corbett National Park are home to over 400 bird species as well as a healthy population of mammals, including Tigers, Leopards, Asian Elephants, deer including Sambar and Chital, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Sloth Bear, the striking and diurnal Yellow-throated Marten, Indian Crested Porcupine and both Terai Grey Langur and Rhesus Macaque. At the centre of the park lies Ramganga Lake and its surrounding grasslands, which form a haven for wildlife. Good numbers of the larger mammals are also attracted to this stunningly beautiful lake.
From our lodges, we can explore the fringes of Corbett's magnificent Sal forests and search for some of the park's shyer and more elusive birds such as White-tailed Rubythroat, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Aberrant Bush Warbler. Parties of maniacal White-crested Laughingthrushes crash through the undergrowth while, over our heads, the diminutive Collared Falconet hunts small birds. With luck we may find a Brown Fish Owl roosting by a quiet stream, or even its larger relative, the huge Tawny Fish Owl. Along the Kosi River, impressive Crested Kingfishers pause and dive in search of an unfortunate fish; Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts flit over the boulders, often joined by dapper Spotted and Little Forktails and plump Brown Dippers. With luck, an exquisite Wallcreeper may be foraging along the cliffs or even amongst the boulders of the riverbed itself.
But we can only venture into the depths of the jungle by jeep! As we enter the gloomy forests, the stillness may be broken by the raucous bugle of an advertising Indian Peafowl, or the barking alarm call of a nervous Chital alerting us to the possibility of a Tiger! Within the park, we are likely to encounter small parties of Kalij Pheasant and Red Junglefowl as they scurry from the roadside at the approach of our vehicles. Our time here will pass all too quickly as we encounter much of what makes Corbett so special. Exciting birds such as Pallas's Fish Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagles, Plum-headed Parakeet, Common Hawk-cuckoo and Crested Treeswift are widespread residents, while wave after wave of babblers and many wintering Palearctic migrants are sure to make this a most exciting stay.
The grasslands at Dhikala overlook the attractive Ramganga Lake. As the eerie, skeletal forms of drowned trees emerge from the morning mists with their attendant raptors, darters and egrets, some of the birds we may encounter include Black Stork, Brahminy Kite, Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagles, Black Francolin, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Lesser Coucal, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Jungle Owlet and Blue-bearded Bee-eater, the latter with its gruff, barking call sounding quite unlike any bee-eater you have heard before! We shall also watch Oriental Pied and the huge Great Hornbill, along with Lineated, Brown-headed, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Streak-throated, Grey-faced, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers, Large Woodshrike, Large Cuckooshrike, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Yellow-eyed Babblers, Rufous-gorgeted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, White-throated Fantail, Grey-breasted Prinia, Tickell's Leaf and Smoky Warblers, Indian Robin and Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches.
If we are very fortunate, we may find the sought-after Hodgson's Bushchat, perching on the taller grass near the lake. Almost a third larger than the familiar Stonechat, this increasingly rare and declining chat is a winter visitor here from its breeding grounds in western Mongolia, and in recent years has become one of Corbett's star attractions. Indeed, Corbett's grasslands are probably now the easiest site on our planet at which to watch them, and our drivers will often know the best places in which to seek them out.
Two nights Corbett Hideaway, two nights Dhikala Lodge, Corbett National Park.
Day 11
After enjoying some final birding at Corbett, we will climb slowly (by bus!) into the foothills of the western Himalayas, birding as we go amid some splendidly scenic countryside. As we ascend, the vegetation gradually changes from dry deciduous forest to light coniferous woodland, introducing us to yet another fascinating and equally diverse avifauna. Wallcreeper, Jungle Myna and Crested Bunting are among possibilities today before we arrive at our hotel in the picturesque lakeside town of Nainital, at the start of an exciting four-night stay.
Now somewhat jaded, this famous hill station was once the summer home for the British ruling establishment during the days of the Raj, providing a refreshing, cool retreat from the oppressive pre-monsoon heat of the Indian plains. It is also home to a surprisingly diverse selection of hill birds, many unique to the western Himalayas. Even within this well-wooded town, we are likely to encounter many of the commoner foothill species and the likes of Bar-winged Flycatchershrike, Himalayan Bulbul, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Spot-winged, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Himalayan Bluetail, Olive-backed Pipit, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted Redstarts and the shy Slaty-blue Flycatcher await.
On a clear day, the view from the pine-clad ridges above Nainital is nothing short of breathtaking! Gazing out across the snow-capped giants towards China and Tibet, we may just be able to see the crest of Nanda Devi, at 7816m, India's highest peak.
Overnight Nainital
Days 12 - 14
We have three full days to enjoy the outstanding birding around the hill station of Nainital. Situated at an elevation of nearly 2000m, and surrounded by peaks that rise to over 2600m, this popular mountain resort offers spectacular vistas - and a bird list to match. Here in the western Himalayas, the climate is cooler and drier than the forests to the east in Nepal and Bhutan and, because of their more northerly latitude, are home to many species that occur here but no further to the east. The birdlife here is also very different to Corbett and the lowland plains.
After initially exploring the parks, gardens and scrub around the edge of town, we will travel out each day to visit the best birding locations: Sat Tal, Mangoli Valley, Kuprital Valley and Snow View, each with its own special birds. During our stay at Nainital, Himalayan Griffon, Great Barbet, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Golden Bush Robin and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker are just a few of the many highlights amongst an impressive list of upland species we hope to see.
Visits to Sat Tal and the Kuprital Valley should produce these and many other delights too, with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, White-tailed Rubythroat, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Black-headed Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting among many to look forward to. We should regularly hear the monotonous call of the endearing Collared Owlet and, by imitating it, we can often bring in small flocks of passerines, intent on mobbing their number one avian predator. With luck, the owl itself may appear, being mobbed by a crowd of angry tits and warblers! Other highlights may include a wintering Chestnut Thrush feeding in a darkened gully or the discovery of a wintering flock of Altai Accentors foraging on a roadside slope. There really is so much to see here and our three days should provide a most enjoyable and relaxing finale to this wonderful region.
Three nights Nainital
Day 15
Leaving Nainital this morning, we drive back down to the Gangetic plain and make our way slowly back to Delhi. We will pause along the way to watch and photograph aspects of unhurried village life. On reaching the mighty River Ganges, we will reflect that this is revered as holy by Hindus, and is the site of innumerable cremations. We have a further chance to possibly catch a glimpse of the elusive Ganges River Dolphin in its murky waters, or to watch a flock of Indian Skimmers roosting on a sand bar - though such sights are now, sadly, becoming increasingly infrequent. Although we shall enjoy some birds today, this is mainly a day for travelling, with time to sit back and enjoy the bustling Indian countryside and to reflect upon the vivid memories and rich experiences of a wonderful holiday.
Evening arrival in Delhi and transfer to an airport hotel for dinner. We have the use of day rooms here to refresh and repack tonight ahead of our transfer back to the airport for our flight home.
Day 16
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 16, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We stay at a mixture of comfortable tourist hotels and simple but best available lodges, all rooms with en suite facilities.
Rail travel is the best way to cover large distances in India and so one night of our tour is spent aboard the Kumaon Express, an overnight sleeping-car train, travelling north from Mathura to Lalkuan. Accommodation on board is in second class, air-conditioned carriages (the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each carriage is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note: we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which is controlled entirely by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts and dinners usually taken at the hotels and lodges. Lunches will be picnics or sit-down meals, according to location.
Walking: Easy. As one would expect, however, there are a few moderate uphill walks in the mountains at Nainital. Here we will be birding up to an altitude of approx. 2500m (8000ft). Owing to the presence of large mammals at Corbett, note that some of our birding here must be done from the vehicle - or elephant-back. Comfy walking shoes or lightweight boots with corrugated soles for grip recommended.
Weather: We visit during the 'cool season', when most days around Delhi and Bharatpur are usually warm-hot, dry and sunny. In Delhi, average November temperatures range from 8-29ûC, but it can feel chilly at night. Note that in the mountains at Nainital, it can be really cold, especially at night and in the early mornings and evenings, when layers of warm clothes including hat, gloves and scarf will be required.
Flights: We use the scheduled services of British Airways, from London direct to Delhi.
Transport: Travel mostly by coach (or minibus depending on final group size); excursions into Bharatpur are by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot, as vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve. In Corbett National Park, we will travel by 4WD vehicle - or even elephant (subject to availability and programme). All visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are too great, too slow or too congested (often all three!) to cover by road, making rail by far the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. To save a long, hot and dusty drive when we transfer north from the plains, there is one rail journey on this tour, travelling overnight on the Kumaon Express from Mathura to Lalkuan in air-conditioned sleeper carriages (see above).
Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-2.5 hours.
Photos: Good opportunistic photographic opportunities - birds, mammals, scenic and cultural.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients