Alaska
Bears and Blueberries in America's finest wilderness
Sunday 16 - Sunday 30 August 2009 (15 days)
In a world where the treasures of wildlife and wild places are dwindling, Alaska remains a wilderness jewel. More than any place in North America, it retains its wild character and ecological integrity, making a visit here simply a 'must do' experience.
The grandeur of the scenery alone is worth the trip; we also focus on history and finding the wildlife, which is abundant and intriguing as well. It's the best time to see Grizzly Bear and Caribou in Denali, and by now, in a typical year, the mosquitoes are greatly diminished or gone! August offers a display of late-blooming wild flowers, ripe abundant berry crops, and brilliant colour that starts to decorate the tundra.
A sampler of Alaska's magnificent scenery would not be complete without a boat trip into the Gulf of Alaska from Seward. From our comfortable boat, we look for close encounters with Humpback Whales, large groups of Orca, dolphins, and the increasingly rare Steller's Sea Lion. Our route takes us past several large glaciers in Resurrection Bay, and then travels through the rich waters of the Chiswell Islands where seabirds such as Tufted and Horned Puffins, Thick-billed and Common Murres, Black-legged Kittiwake, and Red-faced Cormorant nest in the long days of summer. We enter Northwestern Fjord, one of the most spectacular of the Kenai Fjords National Park. At its head, we stop the boat very close to the calving glacier, taking in its magnificent beauty and myriad sounds of ice falling.
In Nome we explore a wild and beautiful landscape close the Arctic Circle. Perched on the sea, with a backdrop of mountains behind, Nome draws regular and vagrant Asian birds from nearby Russia. Many plants exhibit Old World affinities and, this far north, the tree line has given way to open tundra. Nome also provides an authentic Alaskan experience away from roads and regular connections to the outer world. Its unique community is locked in by ice for much of the year, and its colourful Gold Rush history is evident throughout the area.
We feature three nights at the renowned Denali North Face Lodge, a naturalist's paradise with views of Mt. McKinley possible on clear days from the porch. The proprietors' commitment to fine food, great hikes, local expertise, and conservation in the region provides many of the highlights of our stay.
Price: £ 4,995
Single supp. £ 695 per room
Deposit: £ 600 per person
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return flights London - Anchorage and Nome - London, internal flights and boat trips as described, accommodation, meals (except one breakfast, two lunches and two dinners as described above) transport, tips, and the services of the leaders.
The price excludes travel insurance, tips to the leader(s), drinks and other personal expenses.
*Please note that single rooms may not be available throughout, and are especially hard to book at North Face Lodge. If we cannot get single rooms here we will reduce the single supp. to £ 545.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Naturalist Journeys.
Principal Leader:
Greg Smith
Itinerary
Day 1
We fly from London to Anchorage, Alaska, arriving the following day.
Day 2
Arrive in Anchorage, Alaska. As the plane comes in over Cooke Inlet, watch for possible pods of Beluga Whale below - if you can take your eyes off the snow-covered peaks on the west side of the bay, or the verdant Chugach Mountains that give a dramatic background to Anchorage, Alaska's vibrant and most populous city. Those that arrive early in the afternoon can join a walk along Cooke Inlet, on a hike-and-bike trail that gives wonderful views. On mudflats we may see hoards of gulls, terns and sandpipers feeding, and in marshy areas where freshwater rivers enter, we may find migrating Sandhill Cranes. We start the walk right from our hotel, located near the downtown area.
Overnight Anchorage
Day 3
This morning we pass by the official starting place of the Iditarod Sled Dog Race in downtown Anchorage, en route to visit the Anchorage Museum, where excellent displays on history and natural history provide a perfect introduction for our journey. We drive south this morning to Seward, a spectacularly situated fishing town on Resurrection Bay, which leads into the Gulf of Alaska. En route we stop for photography and sightseeing along the way, and a walk on the boardwalk trail at Potter's Marsh. Here we observe spawning salmon as well as possibly fledgling Bald Eagle and a number of waterfowl and waders. Near Alyeska Resort, we look for birds in temperate rainforest, similar to the habitat that rims the more easterly situated Prince William Sound. We look for Rufous Hummingbird, Steller's Jay, Chestnut-backed and Boreal Chickadee, Red-breasted Nuthatch and Townsend's Warbler. Continuing along the scenic route around Cook Inlet, we scan the rugged slopes for signs of Dall Sheep and Moose, and the waters of the bay for Beluga.
We enjoy fresh seafood or steaks tonight at Ray's, located on the waterfront - our favourite restaurant in Alaska! We stay close to the small boat harbour. It's fun to wander after dinner, watch the halibut harvest come in, marvel at the many boats, and look for Sea Otter often just off the docks!
Overnight Seward
Day 4
We glide into the realm of glaciers on an all-day boat trip in Kenai Fjords National Park. In the incredible Chiswell Islands, we watch thousands of post-breeding seabirds, including Tufted and Horned Puffins, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Red-faced Cormorants, and Marbled, Ancient and Kittlitz's Murrelets. Marine mammals may include Steller's Sea Lions, Sea Otter, Orca, Dall's Porpoise, and Humpback Whale. Humpbacks are fairly numerous here; with luck we may witness them breeching or feeding. Often we find mothers with fast-growing calves. On one journey we encountered a Black Bear, swimming across the mouth of Northwestern Fjord! Once inside the fjord, navigating among immense chunks of ice, with glaciers towering behind, is an unforgettable experience. Several waterfalls flow into the fjord; in one intimate cove we often find Mountain Goats on the hillside. Back in Seward, you can choose from the restaurant of your choice, either along the waterfront or in the historic district.
Overnight Seward
Day 5
We have a 60-mile drive back to Anchorage. Views of the Chugach Mountains are tremendous along the way, and we stop to look for a family of American Dipper and other wildlife along the way. We catch a late-morning flight to Fairbanks, and if it is a clear day, we should have fine views of Mt. McKinley, also known as Denali.
Arriving in Fairbanks, we have time to visit the University of Alaska's impressive Museum of the North, which features exhibits on every aspect of the Arctic - natural and cultural, past and present. The adjacent Arctic Botanic Gardens is fascinating as well, and it's an easy walk from the museum. After settling into our accommodations, we venture out after an early supper to spend the evening at the home of a local dog musher. We think you'll be enchanted by Mary Shield's tales of the trail, her dogs, and the delightful setting of her Alaskan log home.
Overnight Fairbanks
Day 6
This morning, we board the train for Denali National Park, arriving mid-day at the Denali station. We pass the shipping yards at Fairbanks and several small towns en route, as well as grand expanses of boreal forest, ponds where we may spot Moose, Canada Geese or Trumpeter Swans. You can have breakfast and an early lunch aboard the train, or catch a quick sandwich at the station or at the small cafŽ adjacent to the Denali National Park Visitor's Centre on arrival. Now a new phase of our adventure begins: a 90-mile incredibly scenic journey through the heart of Denali National Park over dirt roads and through high-mountain passes, surrounded throughout by incredible scenery.
We stop frequently to see wildlife: Grizzly Bear, Moose, Dall Sheep, Caribou, Gyrfalcon, and Hawk Owl are all possibilities. We hope for excellent views of Denali (Mt. McKinley). En route, we enjoy a fine picnic dinner featuring Alaska's specialty foods and prepared by our naturalists from North Face Lodge. Once at the lodge, we settle in and have a brief orientation over tea, coffee, and some scrumptious dessert.
NORTH FACE LODGE, DENALI NATIONAL PARK
Over 50 years ago, people with vision and a true love of the wilderness had the foresight to establish Camp Denali in one of the most pristine areas adjacent to Denali National Park. Since 1975, the Cole family has extended this vision, adding North Face Lodge and managing both properties with an impressive commitment to both conservation and quality of experience. With the expansion of Denali National Park and Preserve in 1980, this owner-operated facility now sits in the centre of the most scenic and wild portion of Denali National Park. Guided hikes and programs conducted by expert naturalists, with a keen focus on geology and natural history, are the key to providing far more than just a backcountry stay. Combine unparalleled views of Mt. McKinley with an unparalleled educational and wildlife viewing opportunity and you have the North Face/Camp Denali experience. With all this to their credit, they also provide incredible service, delicious meals with fresh foods from their own greenhouse and gardens, and well-appointed comfortable rooms with private bath at the Lodge. Canoes and bikes are available, as is optional flight seeing (additional cost). The location, facilities, and programs are unique, and, in conjunction with Naturalist Journeys, we proud to offer this location as part of our Alaska itinerary.
Overnight North Face Lodge, Denali National Park
Days 7 - 8
Our next two days are spent in Denali National Park, days that have been the highlight for many on our Alaska trips. Each morning, expert naturalists from North Face Lodge offer a variety of hikes in tundra and forest habitats. These are described in detail at breakfast, and you can select from an easy paced Ònaturalist foray,Ó or either a moderate or strenuous hike that often follows ridgelines or riverine routes in Denali National Park.
Each outing is unique. While learning about fascinating aspects of tundra ecology, geology, and more, we check tundra ponds for ducks and geese and berry-rich hillsides for bear. This is the best time of year to see Moose, Caribou, and Grizzly Bear. In addition to the large mammals, we may encounter Hoary Marmot, Pine Marten, Rock and Willow Ptarmigan, a variety of songbirds, and a wonderful mix of tundra wildflowers. You can hike as much or as little as you wish. The lodge offers an on-site learning lab and library, as well as trails just outside the door. Evening programs, given by the lodge staff or visiting guest speakers, focus on Denali's natural and cultural history.
Two nights North Face Lodge, Denali National Park
Day 9
On Friday, we drive back through the park to Denali Station. Once there we have time for lunch on your own at the station's cafŽ or convenience store, and time to explore the park's excellent Visitor's Center, then return to Fairbanks by train. After all of your feasting at North Face Lodge you may want a simple sandwich from the station, or you can enjoy dinner on the train at your leisure.
Overnight Anchorage
Day 10
Today we catch a morning flight from Fairbanks to Nome (likely through Anchorage), typically a jet-carrier flight where we share space with cargo. Weather can delay or even prevent landing in Nome, but with good luck and a little adventure we will land on time to begin our exploration. There are a number of excellent birding sites close to town where we find a number of interesting waterfowl species and Pacific, Red-throated and possibly Yellow-billed Loon. We explore the harbour area and historic sites of Nome, with some free time in town to check out the shops, museums, Iditarod Finish Line Arch and Visitor's Centre on Front Street before dinner at a local restaurant.
Overnight Nome
Days 11 - 13
Twenty thousand people lived in Nome at the turn of the century, seeking their fortunes in gold found in the abundant beach sands. Today about 5,000 people live here at the edge of the Bering Sea. Nome is the service centre for much of Western Alaska. Watching huge barges being unloaded gives us insight into the hardships and joys of life in a 21st century frontier. Birding from the rock sea wall near the harbour can be rewarding with sightings of large flocks of sea ducks, Glaucous and Slaty-backed Gull and a variety of shorebirds.
Three main roads lead out into the wilds of the Seward Peninsula, and we travel a combination of routes based on current bird sightings and the interests and abilities of the group. En route, we may find a Grizzly Bear digging up Arctic Ground Squirrels or we may encounter a roadblock of Reindeer, which are herded here instead of cattle. Gyrfalcon, Long-tailed Jaeger and Snowy Owl nest in the region and can be found hunting the open tundra. The Nome-Council road leads out to Cape Nome, with a panoramic view of the Bering Sea and possible sightings of Aleutian and Arctic Tern as well as a variety of eiders and scoters. It continues on to Safety Lagoon and points beyond where we should see 1Bar-tailed Godwit, Arctic Loon and large flocks of Tundra Swans; near Solomon the old railroad engines can be seen as the ÔLast Train to Nowhere'. The Nome-Kougarok Road leads 83 miles north into the Kigluaik Mountains, a beautiful drive, with many areas for birding along the way. Willow bottoms attract Arctic Warbler, Gray-cheeked Thrush and Bluethroat; they may also hide a group of Musk Ox with their young! Willow and Rock Ptarmigan, Northern Wheatear and Horned Lark perch on lichen covered rocks of the tundra, while Rough-legged Hawk and Peregrine hunt overhead. At Pilgrim Creek we find the remains of an agricultural settlement and orphanage and a delightful small hot springs amid trees that attract Hoary Redpoll and Blackpoll Warblers, ready to leave for fall migration. The Nome-Teller road leads off to the Northwest. Teller is known for its rarities which may include Black Guillemot, Northern Shrike and various sandpipers. Close to Nome, a side road up Anvil Mountain provides majestic views of the Bering Sea and King Island, possibly Moose and Musk Ox and a panorama of tundra autumn colour.
Three nights Nome
Day 14
We will be sad to leave the great far North, but will do so with treasured memories, flying from Nome to Anchorage and then onward to London, arriving on Day 15.
Accommodation: Hotels and lodges with all rooms en suite. Meals are included, except dinner on Day 4, breakfast and lunch on Day 6 (on train), lunch and dinner on Day 9
Numbers: Max. 14 clients