Heart of India
Tiger Special!
Wednesday 21 November - Sunday 2 December 2007 (12 days)
Wednesday 19 - Sunday 30 November 2008 (12 days)
Join us for a Tiger Special at the heart of India, visiting Kanha, the setting for Kiplings classic, The Jungle Book, and Bandhavgarh National Parks for the best chances of seeing Tiger, but with Leopard, Sloth Bear, Gaur and Swamp Deer also possible. We end with a visit to Agra and the fabulous Taj Mahal.
© Kunal Patel/Nature Portfolio
A wild Indian tiger
The itinerary presented here differs to that originally outlined previously, having been refined to include a number of significant improvements that should both enhance your enjoyment of the tour as well as increasing the chances of seeing Tiger - and hopefully seeing it well! [On his path-finding visit for us in April 2007, Brian Small enjoyed no fewer than 14 encounters with Tiger - some extremely close!] The revised routing has also enabled us to include a days birding at Sultanpur Jheel at the start of the tour, as well as a sightseeing visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal as our trip draws to a close.
Please note, as the Taj is closed to visitors on Fridays, the 2007 tour dates have changed by one day since they were previously published (now running Wed 21 Nov-Sun 02 Dec 2007). Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the most remote of Indias national parks and getting to them involves quite a journey, be it by air, road and/or rail. But the best chances of seeing Tiger anywhere in India, as well as an excellent range of other birds and mammals, make it well worth the effort!
For the wildlife enthusiast, few parts of the great Indian subcontinent can rival the remote national parks of Bandhavgarh and Kanha. Situated in Madyha Pradesh, together they enclose some 2,000 sq kms of lush grassland and forest at the very heart of India. This region also has a relatively low human population - factors which are important in maintaining the healthiest population of that most magnificent of all Indias wild creatures, the Tiger.
Indeed, there is currently nowhere better than the fabulous setting of Bandhavgarh to see this, the worlds ultimate feline predator. With the aid of Elephants, it is sometimes possible to get close enough to seemingly smell their breath truly a spine-tingling moment in ones life! During our searches we should also encounter a fine variety of other mammals, including herds of the lovely Chital (Spotted Deer). With luck, we might even chance upon a pack of Dhole (the rare Indian Wild Dog), or perhaps a solitary Jungle Cat.
Birds will be conspicuous too, forming mixed roving parties in the woodlands at this time of year when Indias many resident species are joined by winter visitors from both Siberian and Himalayan forests. Lakes and watercourses should be attractive to an equally exciting range of wetland birds following the end of the monsoon.
After starting our birdwatching at Sultanpur near Delhi, we travel south to one of Indias largest national parks: Kanha. In post-monsoon November there should be plenty of water about, with fresh growth of grasses for the deer and antelope - including the endangered Swamp Deer and, of course, good hunting for Tigers! Its at Kanha that we might also come across a group of massive Gaur grazing silently at the forests edge.
Following a four-night stay at Kanha, we transfer north-east to Bandhavgarh National Park. Set amid the rocky hills of the Vindhya range, the Bandhavgarh reserve is barely one-third the size of Kanha - but is simply the most reliable place in all India to regularly see and experience close encounters with Tiger. The sought-after Mottled Wood Owl, skulking Orange-headed Thrush and beautiful Tickells Blue Flycatcher feature among the parks many avian attractions.
As a fitting finale, our tour concludes with a sightseeing visit to Agra. Join us for a superb Birds & Tigers tour, as we combine the thrill of exploring Indias top two reserves for Tiger with the marble splendour of the ethereal Taj Mahal.
Prices:
2007 - £ 2,495
2008 - £ 2,695
Single supp.: £ 225
Deposit: £ 400 per person
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return scheduled flights London-Delhi, with meals on-board as appropriate; domestic flight Delhi-Nagpur; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by coach and train (as described above), with 4WD vehicle and/or elephant-back (as outlined above) in the National Parks, entrance fees at the national parks and monuments, sightseeing excursions as per itinerary, porterage, tips and airport taxes, map, bird and mammal checklist, and services of the leader/s.
The price excludes travel insurance, Indian visa costs (approx £30), drinks & other personal expenses as well as camera fees wherever levied.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.
Leaders: Brian Small and & Manoj Sharma
© Kunal Patel/Nature Portfolio
Sloth Bear
MANOJ SHARMA
34-year old Manoj holds a bachelor's degree in Business Management but his keen interest in birds made him change his line of working to being a naturalist at Corbett Tiger Reserve. He has been working as a Naturalist and Bird Guide since 1996.
Manoj has keen Interest in the birdlife of the Indian sub-continent and have traveled widely in India. Apart from birding, his passions are travelling and nature photography. He is also a bibliophile and has a nice collection of books on general & Indian ornithology. With a keen interest in conservation, He is a life member of Bombay Natural History Society and member of Indian Bird Conservation Network and Oriental Bird Club.
Manoj has handled wildlife groups from Great Britain, Germany, France, Sweden, America, Japan and Korea. He is the co-author of ŒBirds of Corbett Tiger Reserve_ (a checklist of birds found in Corbett). Manoj has sighted more than 450 species of birds in Corbett alone and more than 650 species in the entire North India. He had sighted Dark Morph of Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) for the first time in India in Dhikala (Corbett) in May-June 2003.
Manoj has covered many well known Wildlife Parks in India, to name a few are; Corbett (Uttaranchal), Kanha Tiger Reserve (Madhya Pradesh), Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve& Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary (Rajasthan), Kaziranga National Park (Assam), Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary (Arunachal Pradesh).
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2
We take a British Airways flight non-stop from London to Delhi. Early morning arrival in Delhi on day two, where we shall be met by our local guide and transfer directly to our comfortable and conveniently-located hotel (just 4 kms from the airport) to rest awhile.
After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we make a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the city, well experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead.
If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, Common and Sarus Cranes, White-tailed Lapwing, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Olive-backed and Long-billed Pipits and Large Grey Babbler are among species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including handsome Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyths Reed Warblers and restless little Bright-green Warblers.
Returning to Delhi later, we catch the early evening flight south to Nagpur, at the centre of India.
Overnight Nagpur
Days 3 - 6
Taking a packed breakfast, we make an early start today. The eastwards journey from Nagpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take around six hours. Well pass through varied habitats along the way, including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefy Bronze-winged Jacanas.
Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinents largest and most remote national parks. We aim to arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge for lunch, with an opportunity to settle in and enjoy a first wildlife drive within the national park in the late afternoon. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we shall stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents, all with air-conditioning and private facilities, set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve.
Kanha was the setting for Kiplings classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered hardground Swamp Deer, but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Rhesus Macaque, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the parks rarer and less frequently seen mammals too, such as Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha).
Unsurprisingly, Indias mammals are most active early and late in the day, so well make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinents very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - though sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed!
To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the days wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or enjoy short birding walks around the grounds, before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back.
As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and the many other species to watch for include Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets.
In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Humes Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see.
As the day begins to warm we should be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted in India over the past decade and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures.
Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdons Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling.
Four nights Kanha National Park
Day 7
We shall enjoy a final game drive at Kanha this morning. Returning to our lodge for breakfast, we then depart north to our next destination, Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms), neither are the roads and the journey there will take around six hours.
Well keep a keen eye open for birds along the way, and break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch or a visit to Fossil Park, before arriving this afternoon at the Tiger Trails Resort, Bandhavgarh, at the start of a three-night stay.
Overnight Bandhavgarh
Days 8 - 9
Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarhs hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with lakes and marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tiger anywhere in India.
The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai (or Blue Bull) and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and smaller mammals we should see include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel.
Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife, so well make daily excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarhs Tigers are well known to the parks staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. Driven by a mahout, each elephant carries four people and we will hope to switch to elephant in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters!
Bandhavgarhs varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Painted Francolin. We have further chances of a broad range of central Indian species too - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Brown-capped Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickells Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonellis Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several Indian species that have recently been split, such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch.
No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without making an effort to reach the impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2,625 feet) above sea level, and which tower 300m (1000 feet) above the surrounding countryside. At this time, it is possible to travel by jeep to the base of the fort (as far as the statue of Lord Vishnu, or Shesh Shayya), from where one has the option to ascend the fort on foot. The path is uphill but well worth the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Orange-headed Thrush, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. And the views from the top of the escarpment, where well pause to enjoy a packed lunch, are simply breathtaking!
Two nights Bandhavgarh
Day 10
Well enjoy a final day at Bandhavgarh today, taking morning and afternoon wildlife drives in the National Park, before dinner and making the one-hour transfer to the railway station at Umaria. Here well board the overnight air-conditioned sleeping car express, north from Umaria to Agra. Indias railway system is not only punctual and impressive, but travelling by train is by far the quickest and most comfortable way to travel in a region where roads are generally very poor and the nearest main airport is often six or more hours drive away.
Overnight on train, travelling to Agra
Day 11
We will arrive at Agra mid-morning. We have the use of a number of day rooms at a hotel here, to freshen-up and change prior to enjoying lunch at a restaurant in town and sightseeing visits to the Red Fort and the incomparable Taj Mahal - one of the true wonders of the man-made world.
Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of the magnificent Taj - an extravagant, jewel-encrusted mausoleum constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring. Even here there are birds to distract us: kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. To the north lies the massive Red Fort at Agra where, from the turreted upper windows, well be able to enjoy one last view, along the mighty Yamuna river, of the majestic Taj Mahal.
Our sightseeing over, we transfer to the railway station and board the Shatabdi Express. Dinner will be served on board the train as we travel back to Delhi. On arrival in the capital, we transfer directly to the international airport and check-in for our return flight to London.
Day 12
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 12, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation
We stay at comfortable, good or medium-grade hotels and lodges throughout. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). One night is spent on board a sleeping car train, travelling from Umaria-Agra in 2nd class air-conditioned accommodation (though simple this is the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each car is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note that we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which are assigned by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together.
Meals: All included in the price. Food is, as you would expect, generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little warning.
Walking: Easy (moderate for the optional walk up to Bandhavgarh fort). Owing to the presence of Tiger and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas the majority of bird and mammal-watching within Indias National Parks is done by jeep, so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists.
Ground Transport
By coach and train (as described above), and 4WD vehicles in the National Parks. Here, in the event of successful Tiger tracking by the mahouts, some excursions may also be made by elephant, as opportunity arises. The cost of our tour includes a maximum of four elephant rides per participant (two in each of the two national parks). Further elephant rides may be available at optional extra cost (payable locally), for those that wish.
Visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are frequently too great, too slow or too congested (sometimes all three!) to cover by road, making rail the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. There are two railway journeys on this tour: travelling overnight on the Utkal Express between Umaria and Agra (as above); and an evening return on the modern and comfortable Shatabdi Express from Agra-Delhi at the end of the tour (a 3 hr journey).
Numbers: Max. 14 clients
34-year old Manoj holds a bachelor's degree in Business Management but his keen interest in birds made him change his line of working to being a naturalist at Corbett Tiger Reserve. He has been working as a Naturalist and Bird Guide since 1996.
Manoj has keen Interest in the birdlife of the Indian sub-continent and have traveled widely in India. Apart from birding, his passions are travelling and nature photography. He is also a bibliophile and has a nice collection of books on general & Indian ornithology. With a keen interest in conservation, He is a life member of Bombay Natural History Society and member of Indian Bird Conservation Network and Oriental Bird Club.
Manoj has handled wildlife groups from Great Britain, Germany, France, Sweden, America, Japan and Korea. He is the co-author of ŒBirds of Corbett Tiger Reserve_ (a checklist of birds found in Corbett). Manoj has sighted more than 450 species of birds in Corbett alone and more than 650 species in the entire North India. He had sighted Dark Morph of Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) for the first time in India in Dhikala (Corbett) in May-June 2003.
Manoj has covered many well known Wildlife Parks in India, to name a few are; Corbett (Uttaranchal), Kanha Tiger Reserve (Madhya Pradesh), Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve& Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary (Rajasthan), Kaziranga National Park (Assam), Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary (Arunachal Pradesh).
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2
We take a British Airways flight non-stop from London to Delhi. Early morning arrival in Delhi on day two, where we shall be met by our local guide and transfer directly to our comfortable and conveniently-located hotel (just 4 kms from the airport) to rest awhile.
After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we make a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the city, well experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead.
If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, Common and Sarus Cranes, White-tailed Lapwing, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Olive-backed and Long-billed Pipits and Large Grey Babbler are among species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including handsome Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyths Reed Warblers and restless little Bright-green Warblers.
Returning to Delhi later, we catch the early evening flight south to Nagpur, at the centre of India.
Overnight Nagpur
Days 3 - 6
Taking a packed breakfast, we make an early start today. The eastwards journey from Nagpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take around six hours. Well pass through varied habitats along the way, including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefy Bronze-winged Jacanas.
Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinents largest and most remote national parks. We aim to arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge for lunch, with an opportunity to settle in and enjoy a first wildlife drive within the national park in the late afternoon. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we shall stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents, all with air-conditioning and private facilities, set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve.
Kanha was the setting for Kiplings classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered hardground Swamp Deer, but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Rhesus Macaque, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the parks rarer and less frequently seen mammals too, such as Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha).
Unsurprisingly, Indias mammals are most active early and late in the day, so well make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinents very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - though sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed!
To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the days wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or enjoy short birding walks around the grounds, before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back.
As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and the many other species to watch for include Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets.
In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Humes Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see.
As the day begins to warm we should be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted in India over the past decade and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures.
Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdons Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling.
Four nights Kanha National Park
Day 7
We shall enjoy a final game drive at Kanha this morning. Returning to our lodge for breakfast, we then depart north to our next destination, Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms), neither are the roads and the journey there will take around six hours.
Well keep a keen eye open for birds along the way, and break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch or a visit to Fossil Park, before arriving this afternoon at the Tiger Trails Resort, Bandhavgarh, at the start of a three-night stay.
Overnight Bandhavgarh
Days 8 - 9
Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarhs hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with lakes and marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tiger anywhere in India.
The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai (or Blue Bull) and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and smaller mammals we should see include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel.
Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife, so well make daily excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarhs Tigers are well known to the parks staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. Driven by a mahout, each elephant carries four people and we will hope to switch to elephant in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters!
Bandhavgarhs varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Painted Francolin. We have further chances of a broad range of central Indian species too - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Brown-capped Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickells Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonellis Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several Indian species that have recently been split, such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch.
No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without making an effort to reach the impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2,625 feet) above sea level, and which tower 300m (1000 feet) above the surrounding countryside. At this time, it is possible to travel by jeep to the base of the fort (as far as the statue of Lord Vishnu, or Shesh Shayya), from where one has the option to ascend the fort on foot. The path is uphill but well worth the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Orange-headed Thrush, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. And the views from the top of the escarpment, where well pause to enjoy a packed lunch, are simply breathtaking!
Two nights Bandhavgarh
Day 10
Well enjoy a final day at Bandhavgarh today, taking morning and afternoon wildlife drives in the National Park, before dinner and making the one-hour transfer to the railway station at Umaria. Here well board the overnight air-conditioned sleeping car express, north from Umaria to Agra. Indias railway system is not only punctual and impressive, but travelling by train is by far the quickest and most comfortable way to travel in a region where roads are generally very poor and the nearest main airport is often six or more hours drive away.
Overnight on train, travelling to Agra
Day 11
We will arrive at Agra mid-morning. We have the use of a number of day rooms at a hotel here, to freshen-up and change prior to enjoying lunch at a restaurant in town and sightseeing visits to the Red Fort and the incomparable Taj Mahal - one of the true wonders of the man-made world.
Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of the magnificent Taj - an extravagant, jewel-encrusted mausoleum constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring. Even here there are birds to distract us: kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. To the north lies the massive Red Fort at Agra where, from the turreted upper windows, well be able to enjoy one last view, along the mighty Yamuna river, of the majestic Taj Mahal.
Our sightseeing over, we transfer to the railway station and board the Shatabdi Express. Dinner will be served on board the train as we travel back to Delhi. On arrival in the capital, we transfer directly to the international airport and check-in for our return flight to London.
Day 12
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 12, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation
We stay at comfortable, good or medium-grade hotels and lodges throughout. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). One night is spent on board a sleeping car train, travelling from Umaria-Agra in 2nd class air-conditioned accommodation (though simple this is the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each car is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note that we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which are assigned by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together.
Meals: All included in the price. Food is, as you would expect, generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little warning.
Walking: Easy (moderate for the optional walk up to Bandhavgarh fort). Owing to the presence of Tiger and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas the majority of bird and mammal-watching within Indias National Parks is done by jeep, so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists.
Ground Transport
By coach and train (as described above), and 4WD vehicles in the National Parks. Here, in the event of successful Tiger tracking by the mahouts, some excursions may also be made by elephant, as opportunity arises. The cost of our tour includes a maximum of four elephant rides per participant (two in each of the two national parks). Further elephant rides may be available at optional extra cost (payable locally), for those that wish.
Visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are frequently too great, too slow or too congested (sometimes all three!) to cover by road, making rail the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. There are two railway journeys on this tour: travelling overnight on the Utkal Express between Umaria and Agra (as above); and an evening return on the modern and comfortable Shatabdi Express from Agra-Delhi at the end of the tour (a 3 hr journey).
Numbers: Max. 14 clients