Spanish Pyrenees
The High Aragón
Saturday 7 - Saturday 14 June 2008 (8 days)
With snowcapped mountains to the north and pine-clad rocky hills rising dramatically from the Aragón Valley floor to the south - the Spanish Pyrenees make a truly spectacular setting for a wildlife holiday. We stay in the Hecho Valley, above the town of Jaca in the central Spanish Pyrenees, with raptors galore and, usually, Wallcreepers a short drive away!
The Spanish Pyrenees’s combination of snowcapped peaks, wide river valleys, and jagged forested hills must make this, even after more than ten years of returning here, one of the most exhilarating places we visit! The area is one of the best in Europe for raptors. Red and Black Kites together with Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Booted Eagles soar overhead, while Short-toed Eagles hover over the open hillsides, searching for snakes and lizards, and Golden Eagles hunt amongst the highest peaks.
But for most birdwatchers, one of the major goals of a visit to the Spanish Pyrenees must be to see that most rakish and dashing of vultures, the Lammergeier. This is one of the best places in Europe to see this threatened species, and most years we see individuals on several occasions during our stay.
High alpine meadows where Water Pipits pick their way through sheets of buttercups, daffodils and orchids are the birth place of ice-cold streams, soon to become cascading torrents frequented by Dippers as they crash past pinewoods and plummet into deep gorges that have to be seen to be believed. The massive chasms of rock, sprinkled with endemic Ramonda and Pyrenean Saxifrage, are also home to the fabulous Wallcreeper, which ekes out its existence in a vertical world.
As the landscape opens out, the influence of the Mediterranean is immediately apparent. The air is heavy with the scent of gorses and Spanish Broom, and Woodchat Shrike, Hoopoe, Spotless Starling and Bee-eaters start to appear. South of the Pyrenees the landscape unfolds as a series of craggy sandstone outcrops, each with its own hue of pink or brown. Between these ridges runs the pretty Aragón River, with its gravel beds and cultivations, whilst the mixed woods harbour Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper and Western Bonelli’s Warbler.
With its lush green forests, breath-taking ravines, warm scented hillsides and fabulous range of wildlife, this is Wild Spain at its very best!
Price: £ 1,295
Single supp.: £ 110
Deposit: £ 300 per person
The price per person includes return flight from London - Barcelona, airport taxes, 7 nights' accommodation, meals, incidental tips, minibus transport and the services of the leaders.
The price excludes travel insurance, drinks, and other personal expenses.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.
Principal Leader: John Muddeman
Itinerary
Day 1
We take a morning flight from London - Barcelona. It is about a four-hour drive through increasingly rugged landscapes until we reach the Aragón Valley, from where we turn up towards the small mountain village of Hecho, where we stay for the whole week. Even on this day largely of travel, we are likely to see some of the Griffon Vultures that abound in the area, for Aragón has perhaps the highest density of this species anywhere in the World.
Overnight Hecho
Days 2 - 7
At Hecho, on the southern side of the Pyrenean Massif, the normally sombre greys of the imposing rock ramparts are brightened by warm Mediterranean sunshine. Based at the same hotel throughout, we shall have plenty of time to get to know the area well.
Starting at the high tops, Water Pipits scurry across the short turf in the shadow of majestic 3,000 metre peaks. Where the last patches of winter snow are still retreating, Spring Gentians enliven the scene as we scan the skies above the now sleeping ski resort for birds of prey. Golden Eagle is possible, but our main quarry here is Lammergeier - the mighty ‘bonecrusher’ - which scours the slopes for fallen sheep and the endemic Pyrenean Chamois. These huge birds offer one of the greatest avian spectacles in all Europe and, with numbers slowly increasing in the Pyrenees, most years we see individuals on several occasions during our stay (in 2005, we saw them every day!). Where barren scree covers the ground, we’ll search for Black Redstart and the dazzling but shy Rock Thrush, while the remoter colls are favoured by the elusive Alpine Accentor. Open stands of Mountain Pine are home to another high altitude specialist, the delightful Citril Finch, often to be found feeding on dandelion heads. Even at this height, Crag Martins can be found hawking insects and the valley echoes to the shrill cries of Alpine Marmot and the extraordinary whistles and trills of the yellow-billed Alpine Chough.
At this time of year, the high pastures are in full bloom, with endemic species like Pyrenean Fritillary, Pyrenean Lousewort and Pyrenean Bluebell in flower, as well as Elder-flowered and Broad-leaved Marsh Orchids, Dragonmouth, Narcissus-flowered Anemone, White Pasque Flower, Spring and Trumpet Gentians, Birdseye Primrose, Pyrenean Kidney-vetch and Alpenrose in flower – plus many, many more.
Moving lower, we find ourselves enveloped in majestic alpine forests, dominated by Beech and Scots Pine. Many of the birds here - such as Marsh Tit, Nuthatch and Bullfinch - are typical of those seen at home (although in Spain this is their main outpost). Firecrests are frequent and we’ll try for the imposing Black Woodpecker, too. Before long, we are in stands of familiar Scots Pine and the warm air is laden with the scent of resin. Crossbills and Crested Tits trill overhead, Grey Wagtails haunt the streams and the panoramic views are ideal for scanning for raptors. Griffon Vultures seem to be ever-present in the skies and we can also hope for Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Common and Honey Buzzards, and maybe Goshawk.
Over the millennia, the rushing water courses have carved deep grooves and here, where the sun doesn’t penetrate, scrubby oak, lime, alder and maple grow impossibly from fissures in the rock. Such places hold lively Western Bonelli’s Warblers, while the flat terraces alongside - warmer and rich in showy asphodels, gorse and box - provide good habitat for fluting Woodlark, secretive Dartford and Subalpine Warblers, Red-backed Shrike and Cirl Bunting. We have good chances of finding the attractive Rock Bunting too, with its jangling Dunnock-like song. But the bare rock faces here will be of the greatest interest to us, for here we have our best chances of finding the remarkable Wallcreeper. We’ll walk some of these limestone gorges, looking up at the Red-billed Choughs, together with Alpine Swifts and Blue Rock Thrushes, while Rock Sparrows wheeze from the crevices. In one particular spot, we have had stunning views of the elusive Wallcreeper less than ten metres above us, and we’ll hope that this pair returns again. (Our track record for this species to date must surely be second to none - and we have a second site in store, just in case!) Flowers include several orchids, violet Ramonda and quite glorious cascades of endemic Pyrenean Saxifrage on the rock faces.
We shall have lots of chances to explore these high valleys - but we won’t want to ignore the areas beckoning from below either! Nestling at the foot of the Pyrenees, the flat alluvial Aragón plain bustles with avian activity. The patchwork of scattered cornfields interspersed with the region’s crumbling, grey marl ‘badlands’ forms a splendid wildlife habitat. Birds here are characteristic of the Mediterranean region and include Hoopoe, Sardinian and Melodious Warblers, Tawny Pipit and Serin; Crested Larks are common, while both Black and Red Kites and rainbow-hued Bee-eaters swoop gracefully overhead. Loud-voiced Cetti’s Warblers shout at us from secluded streamsides as we pass, Great Reed Warblers grunt from the reeds and Golden Orioles flute from the orchid-rich poplar groves. Here we know of a flower-rich hillside that is home to a good number of Ortolan Buntings and, with an evening return to another site nearby, we’ll hope for more wonderful views of the local Eagle Owls to rival those we have enjoyed in the past.
The southern slopes now reflect a true Mediterranean environment as the heavenly scent of thymes, Rosemary and Gum Cistus lay siege to our senses. Travelling through this lovely countryside, we shall come to the almost surreal pink sandstone pillars that are the towering Mallos de Riglos. The village below these impressive cliffs is surrounded by fields which can be swarming with butterflies, while the seemingly barren scree has somehow provided ground for villagers to cultivate orchards of fragrant almonds and olives. With vultures in constant attendance, it is amidst this chequerboard landscape that we’ll search for Peregrine, Rock Dove, smartly dressed Black and Black-eared Wheatears, furtive Orphean Warblers and the showy Woodchat Shrike.
June is an excellent time for butterflies too, and given sunny weather we have recorded over 70 species in a week in the past. Possible highlights include Spanish Fritillary, Spanish Swallowtail, Camberwell Beauty and Purple Emperor, as well as a host of fritillaries, blues and hairstreaks. On the high slopes, Apollos drift across open, flowery meadows; in sunny woodland glades, Duke of Burgundy and Southern White Admiral enliven our walks; while on flower-filled banks in the foothills, handsome Southern Gatekeepers, stunning Cleopatras and sublime Black-veined Whites vie for our attention.
As with any tour to montane regions, our itinerary remains flexible so as to allow for any vagaries in the weather. But we shall be sure to visit the full range of habitats available, to get the very best from our week in this special area.
Six nights Hecho
Day 8
We return to Barcelona and catch an evening return flight to London.
Accommodation: We stay in a small friendly hotel in a splendid setting high in the forested Hecho Valley. All rooms are en suite.
Meals
All included in the price. Breakfast and dinner at hotel. Lunches will be picnics at some wonderfully scenic spots.
Walking
Easy. Up to 3 miles in any one day over mainly easy terrain, but may include occasional shorter walks on steeper slopes. Walking boots advised in the mountains. Comfy walking shoes suitable at lower elevations.
Ground Transport
By minibus.
Numbers: Max. 12 clients
Day 1
We take a morning flight from London - Barcelona. It is about a four-hour drive through increasingly rugged landscapes until we reach the Aragón Valley, from where we turn up towards the small mountain village of Hecho, where we stay for the whole week. Even on this day largely of travel, we are likely to see some of the Griffon Vultures that abound in the area, for Aragón has perhaps the highest density of this species anywhere in the World.
Overnight Hecho
Days 2 - 7
At Hecho, on the southern side of the Pyrenean Massif, the normally sombre greys of the imposing rock ramparts are brightened by warm Mediterranean sunshine. Based at the same hotel throughout, we shall have plenty of time to get to know the area well.
Starting at the high tops, Water Pipits scurry across the short turf in the shadow of majestic 3,000 metre peaks. Where the last patches of winter snow are still retreating, Spring Gentians enliven the scene as we scan the skies above the now sleeping ski resort for birds of prey. Golden Eagle is possible, but our main quarry here is Lammergeier - the mighty ‘bonecrusher’ - which scours the slopes for fallen sheep and the endemic Pyrenean Chamois. These huge birds offer one of the greatest avian spectacles in all Europe and, with numbers slowly increasing in the Pyrenees, most years we see individuals on several occasions during our stay (in 2005, we saw them every day!). Where barren scree covers the ground, we’ll search for Black Redstart and the dazzling but shy Rock Thrush, while the remoter colls are favoured by the elusive Alpine Accentor. Open stands of Mountain Pine are home to another high altitude specialist, the delightful Citril Finch, often to be found feeding on dandelion heads. Even at this height, Crag Martins can be found hawking insects and the valley echoes to the shrill cries of Alpine Marmot and the extraordinary whistles and trills of the yellow-billed Alpine Chough.
At this time of year, the high pastures are in full bloom, with endemic species like Pyrenean Fritillary, Pyrenean Lousewort and Pyrenean Bluebell in flower, as well as Elder-flowered and Broad-leaved Marsh Orchids, Dragonmouth, Narcissus-flowered Anemone, White Pasque Flower, Spring and Trumpet Gentians, Birdseye Primrose, Pyrenean Kidney-vetch and Alpenrose in flower – plus many, many more.
Moving lower, we find ourselves enveloped in majestic alpine forests, dominated by Beech and Scots Pine. Many of the birds here - such as Marsh Tit, Nuthatch and Bullfinch - are typical of those seen at home (although in Spain this is their main outpost). Firecrests are frequent and we’ll try for the imposing Black Woodpecker, too. Before long, we are in stands of familiar Scots Pine and the warm air is laden with the scent of resin. Crossbills and Crested Tits trill overhead, Grey Wagtails haunt the streams and the panoramic views are ideal for scanning for raptors. Griffon Vultures seem to be ever-present in the skies and we can also hope for Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Common and Honey Buzzards, and maybe Goshawk.
Over the millennia, the rushing water courses have carved deep grooves and here, where the sun doesn’t penetrate, scrubby oak, lime, alder and maple grow impossibly from fissures in the rock. Such places hold lively Western Bonelli’s Warblers, while the flat terraces alongside - warmer and rich in showy asphodels, gorse and box - provide good habitat for fluting Woodlark, secretive Dartford and Subalpine Warblers, Red-backed Shrike and Cirl Bunting. We have good chances of finding the attractive Rock Bunting too, with its jangling Dunnock-like song. But the bare rock faces here will be of the greatest interest to us, for here we have our best chances of finding the remarkable Wallcreeper. We’ll walk some of these limestone gorges, looking up at the Red-billed Choughs, together with Alpine Swifts and Blue Rock Thrushes, while Rock Sparrows wheeze from the crevices. In one particular spot, we have had stunning views of the elusive Wallcreeper less than ten metres above us, and we’ll hope that this pair returns again. (Our track record for this species to date must surely be second to none - and we have a second site in store, just in case!) Flowers include several orchids, violet Ramonda and quite glorious cascades of endemic Pyrenean Saxifrage on the rock faces.
We shall have lots of chances to explore these high valleys - but we won’t want to ignore the areas beckoning from below either! Nestling at the foot of the Pyrenees, the flat alluvial Aragón plain bustles with avian activity. The patchwork of scattered cornfields interspersed with the region’s crumbling, grey marl ‘badlands’ forms a splendid wildlife habitat. Birds here are characteristic of the Mediterranean region and include Hoopoe, Sardinian and Melodious Warblers, Tawny Pipit and Serin; Crested Larks are common, while both Black and Red Kites and rainbow-hued Bee-eaters swoop gracefully overhead. Loud-voiced Cetti’s Warblers shout at us from secluded streamsides as we pass, Great Reed Warblers grunt from the reeds and Golden Orioles flute from the orchid-rich poplar groves. Here we know of a flower-rich hillside that is home to a good number of Ortolan Buntings and, with an evening return to another site nearby, we’ll hope for more wonderful views of the local Eagle Owls to rival those we have enjoyed in the past.
The southern slopes now reflect a true Mediterranean environment as the heavenly scent of thymes, Rosemary and Gum Cistus lay siege to our senses. Travelling through this lovely countryside, we shall come to the almost surreal pink sandstone pillars that are the towering Mallos de Riglos. The village below these impressive cliffs is surrounded by fields which can be swarming with butterflies, while the seemingly barren scree has somehow provided ground for villagers to cultivate orchards of fragrant almonds and olives. With vultures in constant attendance, it is amidst this chequerboard landscape that we’ll search for Peregrine, Rock Dove, smartly dressed Black and Black-eared Wheatears, furtive Orphean Warblers and the showy Woodchat Shrike.
June is an excellent time for butterflies too, and given sunny weather we have recorded over 70 species in a week in the past. Possible highlights include Spanish Fritillary, Spanish Swallowtail, Camberwell Beauty and Purple Emperor, as well as a host of fritillaries, blues and hairstreaks. On the high slopes, Apollos drift across open, flowery meadows; in sunny woodland glades, Duke of Burgundy and Southern White Admiral enliven our walks; while on flower-filled banks in the foothills, handsome Southern Gatekeepers, stunning Cleopatras and sublime Black-veined Whites vie for our attention.
As with any tour to montane regions, our itinerary remains flexible so as to allow for any vagaries in the weather. But we shall be sure to visit the full range of habitats available, to get the very best from our week in this special area.
Six nights Hecho
Day 8
We return to Barcelona and catch an evening return flight to London.
Accommodation: We stay in a small friendly hotel in a splendid setting high in the forested Hecho Valley. All rooms are en suite.
Meals
All included in the price. Breakfast and dinner at hotel. Lunches will be picnics at some wonderfully scenic spots.
Walking
Easy. Up to 3 miles in any one day over mainly easy terrain, but may include occasional shorter walks on steeper slopes. Walking boots advised in the mountains. Comfy walking shoes suitable at lower elevations.
Ground Transport
By minibus.
Numbers: Max. 12 clients