© Gail Johnson/Nature Portfolio
A group goes exploring by zodiac
We've chosen one of the very best times of year to circumnavigate the island of Spitsbergen and explore this most accessible of high arctic regions which in 2008 just happens to coincide with a total eclipse of the sun. While possible ice conditions and the frequency of cloud make the chances of seeing the eclipse itself lower than we would like - less than 30% - we felt that this was a chance too good to miss, and have chartered a ship for the occasion!
Spitsbergen, with its rugged mountains, fjords, sweeping tundra, ice caps and glaciers, is the largest island of the Svalbard archipelago, and only 600 miles from the North Pole. In June the southern part of Spitsbergen becomes ice-free, but it is not until July that the whole of Spitsbergen opens up to ice-strengthened vessels. It is then that, with luck, we can visit the remote north and east coasts, with their abundance of arctic wildlife, including millions of Little Auks and other seabirds, whales, Polar Bears and Walruses. At this time of year, during the brief Arctic summer, Spitsbergen has constant daylight. The tundra responds with a rich array of flowers where Reindeer graze, while birds rush to raise their young before the Arctic winter sets in.
On the day of the eclipse we sail to the island of Kvitöya, off North-east Spitsbergen, which is at the southwestern edge of the Total Eclipse, with eclipse duration of a few seconds there. Whether we proceed from here depends on the ice conditions. The further northeast of Kvitöya we can sail, the longer we will be able to witness the Total Eclipse (to a maximum of just over two minutes). We should also emphasise that the chance of the sky being cloud-covered is pretty high - more than 70%.
This trip should therefore be looked on as primarily a Spitsbergen wildlife cruise, with the eclipse as a bonus. If seeing a total eclipse is a priority for you, please look for a tour that travels to a desert region to see it!
We begin the cruise at Longyearbyen, the administrative centre of Spitsbergen, with a population of over 3,000. The coasts are ice-free in the summer and colourful wild flowers, mosses and lichens abound. Here we can encounter the only two land birds - Ptarmigan and Snow Bunting - and may see our first Purple Sandpipers feeding along the shore, along with the ubiquitous Arctic Terns, Glaucous Gulls and blue-phase Fulmars.
We may visit the world's northernmost settlement, Ny Ålesund. Here Long-tailed Ducks breed on the village pools, along with Red-throated Divers and both Pink-footed and Barnacle Geese on the surrounding tundra, which also harbours breeding Arctic and Long-tailed Skuas. Svalbard Reindeer graze, and Arctic Foxes roam, and at this time of year the flowers can be superb. Grey Phalaropes in their stunning red breeding plumage can also be encountered along this coast along with King and Common Eiders. Ivory Gulls are regularly found around the bow of the ship as she pushes through ice. If we are lucky we may find the rare Sabines Gull on its breeding grounds on the island of Moffen, an area that can be approached by the ship, but where we are not allowed to land.
Depending on the ice conditions we will circumnavigate Spitsbergen clockwise or anti-clockwise, with the emphasis on locations in the east where Polar Bears abound. During these voyages we will encounter a lot of sea ice and have a chance to observe impressive calving glaciers at close quarters. Our timing of the trip will give us the best chance of cruising the Hinlopen Strait, between Spitsbergen and the isle of Nordaustlandet, and around the eastern isles of Barentsøya and Edgeøya, where we hope to encounter Walruses and several species of seal, including Bearded, Ringed and Harp Seals. Seabirds will be encountered frequently and will include Little Auks and Brünnich's Guillemots as well as Black Guillemots, a few Puffins and Kittiwakes, all of which may be harassed by the ever-watchful Arctic and Pomarine Skuas. At Diskobukta on the island of Edgeøya we may visit a canyon with thousands of breeding Kittiwakes Arctic Foxes and Polar Bears regularly roam around the base of the cliffs. If possible we will visit Tusenøyane, where we will see the well-preserved remains of 17th century whaling activities. We hope to encounter Minke and Beluga Whales in this area.
In West Spitsbergen lies the large and rugged Hornsund Fjord, which has imposing glaciers and a rich marine fauna. As a result it has huge breeding colonies of Little Auks, one of which is readily accessible. To stand almost within arms reach of groups of Little Auks, whilst thousands more fly to and from the colony all around you, is a truly thrilling arctic experience. We may also be able to visit a Polish research station in the area.