Northern India
Bharatpur, Corbett & Nainital
Friday 21 November - Saturday 6 December 2008 (16 days)
From the magic of Bharatpur's wetlands and the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, we travel across the Gangetic plain, with a chance of Gharial crocodiles and Ganges River Dolphins, to the Himalayan foothills, with the wonderful grasslands and forests of Corbett National Park and the spectacular hill station of Nainital. Join us for a classic Indian journey!
© David Dennis/Nature Portfolio
Lammergeier
Few destinations on Earth are more compelling than the Indian sub-continent. A vast, colourful and crowded land, yet possessing some of the most spectacular wildlife in all Asia, India today offers perhaps the most memorable of travel experiences anywhere in the world. Our classic Northern India tour is designed to show you a fabulous cross-section of India's birds and wildlife - at some of its most famous and exciting sites. It is perhaps the ideal India itinerary, appealing equally to those who have travelled throughout the subcontinent as well as to the first-time visitor - or indeed anyone planning to visit India only once.
The magic begins at the celebrated Keoladeo Sanctuary, better known simply as 'Bharatpur'. Time stands still on our first morning's walk here (and we won't get very far either!) as wintering Siberian birds abound. Bluethroats run across the paths and the acacias positively hum with restless Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers. But, if the rains have been good, it is the abundance of Bharatpur's wetland species that really takes centre stage. Huge Sarus Cranes and Black-necked Storks mingle with flocks of Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, whilst all around there is a hubbub of activity from myriad other waterbirds.
No stay in the plains would be complete without a pilgrimage to the most famous of India's cultural sites, and well enjoy a morning's sightseeing visit to Agra and the sublime Taj Mahal as we travel on to Chambal River Lodge. Indian Skimmer and Great Thick-knee are among countless wetland species here, together with Mugger and Gharial, India's two huge crocodiles. With luck, a boat trip on the river could also produce a sighting of the endangered Gangetic Dolphin at one of its last surviving haunts.
For the second part of our tour, we journey north to the foothills of the Himalayas. Encompassing 520 sq kms of pristine riverine grasslands and forest, Corbett is India's oldest national park. While the setting is superb, the sheer variety of bird life is astounding: more than 500 species have been recorded here! Asian Elephants roam the woodlands and birds to watch for include a positive bedazzlement of captivating passerines - often buzzing through the tress in busy mixed feeding flocks - as well as some special treats, such as Pallas's Fish Eagle, Brown Fish Owl and the magnificent Crested Kingfisher.
From Corbett, we ascend the lower slopes of the western Himalayas to the spectacular old hill-station of Nainital, pausing along the way to search for Ibisbill at one of its regular wintering haunts. Standing beside an ice-cold lake (after which the town is named), Nainital seemingly perches on the very edge of the world. Here, the impressive Blue Whistling Thrush holds court as we search the woodlands and mountainsides for the likes of Lammergeier, Black-throated Jay, Altai Accentor and a host of other wonderful Himalayan birds.
Peter Kennerley has travelled extensively throughout Asia and this will be his twelfth visit to the Indian subcontinent. Why not join him this year, as we return to the bird-filled marshes, mountains and jungles of timeless Northern India.
Price: £ 2,795
Single supp.: £ 365
Deposit: £ 400 per person
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return scheduled flights London-Delhi, with meals on-board as appropriate; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by coach and train, with some excursions by bicycle-rickshaw at Bharatpur and 4WD vehicle and/or elephant at Corbett National Park (as outlined above); boat trip on Chambal River; entrance fees to parks and monuments; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.
The price excludes visa costs (c£30), travel insurance, drinks and other personal expenses.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.
Principal Leader: Peter Kennerley
© Elliot Neep/Nature Portfolio
Openbill Stork
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2
We take the British Airways overnight flight from London, direct to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi on the morning of Day 2, where (depending on flight arrival time) we may take breakfast at an airport hotel prior to boarding our coach and heading south to Bharatpur.
As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the capital, well experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws, Oriental Magpie-robins sit up boldly atop rooftops and walls, and the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. Very soon we are travelling through a rural landscape of bustling villages, passing a myriad of roadside pools adorned with Black-winged Stilts, Red-wattled Lapwings and House Crows; we may even see our first Indian Peafowl along the way.
It's about a four-hour drive to Bharatpur, where we should arrive in time to enjoy lunch and a rest at our hotel, which will be our base for a three-night stay. As the afternoon heat subsides, well pay a first visit to the world famous Keoladeo Sanctuary - better known simply as 'Bharatpur' - for a first look at its magical wetlands.
Overnight Bharatpur
Days 3 - 4
During the next two days, we will explore this fabulously rich but surprisingly compact reserve, covering most of the different habitats and their associated birds as well as searching for a number of local and, in many cases, elusive species.
It is Bharatpur's waterbirds that are its crowning glory, often crowding onto the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle freely with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar species. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the marshy shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-breasted Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Red-naped Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill.
The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can expect to encounter Steppe, Tawny, Imperial, Booted, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Marsh Harrier - and probably many more.
Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Oriental Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common here and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are fortunate we may dig out a handsome Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident here,
In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialties as Yellow-crowned and Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Horned-Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, White-tailed Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but highly desirable species. The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Wood Shrike, White-cheeked Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet!
[In the event the summer monsoon rains have failed and Bharatpur's water is depleted, on one day we have the option to visit the Bund Bharetha reservoir for wetland birds, spending the remainder of our time exploring the wealth of other outstanding bird-rich habitats within Bharatpur's remarkable Keoladeo Sanctuary.]
Two nights Bharatpur
Day 5
Leaving Bharatpur early this morning, we head directly to Agra and the Taj Mahal (about an hours drive away), so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of tourists start to arrive. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of this magnificent building - constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring, and one that never disappoints.
Once we have taken our fill of this marvel of Moghul architecture, we will check the adjacent Yamuna River, where birds abound. Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures are constantly in view overhead, while along the riverbanks we will see many waders, gulls and terns including Red-wattled and River Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, Brown-headed Gull and River Tern. The nearby scrub and manicured gardens are home to Grey Hornbill, Little Green Bee-eaters, Rose-ringed and huge Alexandrine Parakeets, Spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Barbet and Laughing Dove, while inquisitive little Palm Squirrels scamper about our feet in the search for tourist handouts. If we are lucky, we may watch a Laggar Falcon hunting feral pigeons above the city.
A ninety-minute drive will carry us from Agra to our next stop, Chambal Safari Lodge. Situated next to the National Chambal Sanctuary, this pristine stretch of the Chambal River supports a rich and varied ecosystem - a habitat which, regrettably, is becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many of these threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent. In November, the water levels are good, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We'll spend our first afternoon at Chambal exploring this area on foot, then take a boat trip out onto the river the following morning.
During our stay here, we will be treated to some marvellous birds that do not occur at Bharatpur or elsewhere on this tour. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now sadly a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should have no difficulty in seeing this wonderful species. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Little Pratincoles, Great Thick-knees and the monstrous Great Black-headed Gull are among other key species to look forward to at Chambal, while along the river we shall encounter a long list of other waterbirds too - from Little and Great Cormorants, Lesser Whistling-duck and Bar-headed Goose to Ruddy Shelduck, Comb Duck and the more familiar Red-crested Pochard. We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial, a large fish-eating crocodile, and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with turtles and possibly River Otters. If we are fortunate, we may also come across the endangered Gangetic Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of northern India's rivers.
We'll watch for Sand Lark beside the river, where waders are likely to include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints, and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Sand Martin wheel overhead as we check the skies for Osprey, Steppe Eagle and possibly Pallas's Fish Eagle. Turning inland, we can explore the nearby scrub and dry forest for many species typical of northern India, including Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Barn and Wire-tailed Swallows, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more.
Overnight Chambal Safari Lodge
Day 6
This morning we take our boat safari along the Chambal River, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective, and marvelling at the grace and elegance of the skimmers as they dash past our boat. This is such a delightful location that it will be difficult to tear ourselves away. Before we do so, however, we will take lunch at our lodge.
Although much of the afternoon is taken up with the drive to the railway station at Mathura, we will make stops along the way, perhaps to watch a White-eyed Buzzard or a flock of White-rumped Vultures - the latter sadly now an extremely rare and erratic sight throughout the subcontinent. In the evening, we board the Kumaon Express, the overnight sleeper train that will carry us north across the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain to Lalkuan - near the world famous Corbett National Park - where we arrive the following morning.
Overnight on board train travelling north
Days 7 - 10
We shall be met on arrival at Lalkuan railway station this morning and make the two-hour drive north to Kumeria, on the doorstep of India's oldest and finest national park, Corbett. Extending over 520 square kilometres, Corbett is simply vast! This classic tract of wild India has a special beauty that is vividly described in 'The Maneaters of Kumaon' and other books by Jim Corbett, after whom the park is named. Accommodation within the park itself is extremely limited and to make the most of our four-night stay here we shall spend two nights at Corbett Hideaway, on the edge of the park, followed by two nights at River Lodge, a permanent tented facility located atop a plateau in the heart of the reserve forest and on the banks of the Ramganga River. In addition to providing excellent birding opportunities - both within and around the park - these two lodges offer better standards of accommodation and service to the more basic alternatives available elsewhere.
The forested foothills of Corbett National Park are home to over 400 bird species as well as a healthy population of mammals, including Tigers, Leopards, Indian Elephants, deer including Sambar and Chital, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Sloth Bear, the striking and diurnal Yellow-throated Marten, Common Porcupine and both Common Langur and Rhesus Macaque. At the heart of the park lies Ramganga Lake and its surrounding grasslands, which form a haven for wildlife. Large numbers of the larger mammals are attracted to this stunningly beautiful lake - and we shall also visit it during our stay!
From our lodges, we can explore the fringes of Corbett's magnificent Sal forests and search for some of the parks shyer and more elusive birds such as White-tailed Rubythroat, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Aberrant Bush-warbler. Parties of maniacal White-crested Laughingthrushes crash through the undergrowth while, over our heads, the diminutive Collared Falconet hunts small birds. With luck we may find a Brown Fish Owl roosting by a quiet stream, or even its larger relative, the huge Tawny Fish Owl. Along the nearby Kosi River, impressive Crested Kingfishers pause and dive in search of an unfortunate fish; Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts flit over the boulders, often joined by dapper Spotted and Little Forktails and plump Brown Dippers. With luck, an exquisite Wallcreeper may be foraging along the cliffs or even amongst the boulders of the riverbed itself.
But we can only venture into the depths of the jungle by jeep! As we enter the gloomy forests, the stillness may be broken by the raucous bugle of an advertising peacock, or the barking alarm call of a nervous Chital alerting us to the possibility of a Tiger! Within the park, we are likely to encounter small parties of Kalij Pheasant and Red Jungle Fowl as they scurry from the roadside at the approach of our vehicles. Our time here will pass very quickly as we encounter much of what makes Corbett so special. Exciting birds such as Pallas's Fish and Crested Hawk Eagles, Plum-headed Parakeet, Common Hawk Cuckoo and Crested Tree-swift are widespread residents, while wave after wave of babblers and many wintering Palearctic migrants are sure to make this a most exciting stay.
Eventually, we reach the grasslands near Dhikala that overlook the attractive Ramganga Lake. As the eerie, skeletal forms of drowned trees emerge from the morning mists with their attendant raptors, darters and egrets, some of the birds we may encounter here include Black Stork, Brahminy Kite, Indian Crested and Rufous-bellied Eagles, Black Francolin, Red Turtle Dove, Emerald Dove, Lesser Coucal, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Jungle Owlet and Blue-bearded Bee-eater - with its gruff, barking call sounding quite unlike any bee-eater you have heard before! We should also watch Oriental Pied and the huge Great Hornbill, along with Lineated, Brown-headed, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Streak-throated, Grey-headed, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Woodpeckers, Large Wood-shrike, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Chestnut-capped and Yellow-eyed Babblers, Rufous-gorgeted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, White-throated Fantail, Grey-breasted Prinia, Tickell's Leaf and Smoky Warblers, Indian Robin and Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches. If we are very fortunate, we may find the sought-after Hodgson's Bushchat, perching on the taller grass near the lake. Almost a third larger than the familiar Stonechat, this increasingly rare and declining chat is a winter visitor here from its breeding grounds in western Mongolia, and in recent years has become one of Corbett's star attractions. Indeed, Corbett's grasslands are probably now the easiest site on our planet at which to watch them, and our drivers will often know the best places in which to seek them out.
Four nights Corbett National Park
Day 11
After enjoying some final birding at Corbett, we will climb slowly (by bus!) into the foothills of the western Himalayas, birding as we go amid some splendidly scenic countryside. As we ascend, the vegetation gradually changes from dry deciduous forest to light coniferous woodland, introducing us to yet another fascinating and equally diverse avifauna. Wallcreeper, Jungle Myna and Crested Bunting are among many possibilities today before we arrive at our hotel in the picturesque lakeside town of Nainital, at the start of an exciting four-night stay.
Now somewhat jaded, this famous hill station was once the summer home for the British ruling establishment during the days of the Raj, providing a refreshing, cool retreat from the oppressive pre-monsoon heat of the Indian plains. It is also home to a surprisingly diverse selection of hill birds, many unique to the western Himalayas. Even within this well-wooded town, we are likely to encounter many of the commoner hill species and the likes of Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Himalayan Bulbul, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Spot-winged, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Red-flanked Bluetail, Olive-backed Pipit, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted Redstarts and the shy Slaty-blue Flycatcher await.
Our own retreat here - the newly-opened Earls Court Hotel - is an old colonial house set in charming landscaped gardens and currently (summer 2007) being refurbished with all modern facilities throughout to provide an appealing alternative to the larger tourist hotels. Located close to the edge of town and dominated by sheer rock peaks over which the magnificent Lammergeier can be seen, Earls Court is situated in a wonderful location. On a clear day, the view from the pine-clad ridges above Nainital is nothing short of breathtaking! Gazing out across the snow-capped giants towards China and Tibet, we may just be able to see the crest of Nanda Devi, at 7,816m, India's highest peak.
Overnight Nainital
Days 12 - 14
We have three full days to enjoy the outstanding birding around the hill station of Nainital. Situated at an elevation of nearly 2,000m and surrounded by peaks that rise to over 2,600m, this popular mountain resort offers spectacular vistas - and a bird list to match. Here in the western Himalayas, the climate is cooler and drier than the forests to the east in Nepal and Bhutan and, because of their more northerly latitude, are home to many species that occur here but no further to the east. The birdlife here is also very different to Corbett and the lowland plains.
After initially exploring the parks, gardens and scrub around the edge of town, we will travel out each day to visit the best birding locations: Sat Tal, Mangoli Valley, Kuprital Valley and Snow View, each with its own special birds. During our stay at Nainital, Himalayan Griffon Vulture, Great Hill Barbet, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned Laughing-thrushes, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Red-headed Tit, Golden Bush Robin and Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker are just a few of the many highlights amongst an impressive list of upland species we hope to see.
Visits to Sat Tal and the Kuprital Valley should produce these and many other delights too, with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, White-tailed Rubythroat, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Black-throated Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting among many to look forward to. We should regularly hear the monotonous call of the endearing Collared Owlet and, by imitating it, we can often bring in small flocks of passerines, intent on mobbing their number one avian predator. With luck, the owl itself may appear, being mobbed by a crowd of angry tits and warblers! Other highlights may include a wintering Chestnut Thrush feeding in a darkened gully or find a wintering flock of Altai Accentors on a roadside slope. There really is so much to see here and our three days should provide a most enjoyable and relaxing finale to this wonderful region.
Three nights Nainital
Days 15 - 16
Leaving Nainital this morning, we drive back down to the Gangetic plain and make our way slowly back to Delhi. We will pause along the way to watch and photograph aspects of unhurried village life. Reaching the mighty River Ganges, we will reflect that this is revered as holy by Hindus, and is the site of innumerable cremations. We have a further chance to possibly catch a glimpse of the elusive Gangetic Dolphin in its murky waters, or to watch a flock of Indian Skimmers roosting on a sand bar, though such sights are now, sadly, becoming increasingly infrequent. But this is mainly a day for travelling, to sit back and enjoy the bustling Indian countryside and to reflect upon the vivid memories and rich experiences of a wonderful holiday.
Evening arrival in Delhi and transfer to an airport hotel for dinner. We have the use of day rooms here to refresh and repack tonight ahead of our transfer back to the airport for our flight home. Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 16, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We stay at a mixture of comfortable tourist hotels and simple but best available lodges, all rooms with en suite facilities.
The River Lodge at Corbett is a permanent tented facility comprising ten well-furnished tents, each with attached private toilets and hot and cold running water. We use this camp in preference to the more basic alternative, Dhikala Lodge. In common with many wildlife camps, River Lodge has no mains electricity, but two solar lanterns are provided per tent and the resort also provides torches for guests to move around the lodge after nightfall. The camp has electric fencing around the perimeter to prevent large mammals from entering - notably elephants, which are attracted to feed in the bamboo that surrounds the camp!
Rail travel is the best way to cover large distances in India and so one night of our tour is spent aboard the Kumaon Express, an overnight sleeping car train, travelling from Mathura to Lalkuan. Accommodation is in second class, air-conditioned carriages (the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each carriage is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts and dinners usually taken at the hotels and lodges. Lunches will be picnics or sit-down meals, according to location.
Walking: Mostly easy but, as one would expect, there are a few moderate uphill walks in the mountains at Nainital, where we will be birding up to an altitude of approx. 2,500m (8,000ft). Owing to the presence of large mammals at Corbett, note that some of our birding here must be done from the vehicle.
Transport: Mostly by coach, but excursions into Bharatpur are by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot as vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve. In Corbett National Park, we will travel by 4WD vehicle - or even elephant (subject to availability and programme)! Visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are too great, too slow or too congested (or all three!) to cover by road, making rail by far the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. To save a long, hot and dusty drive when we transfer north from the plains, there is one rail journey on this tour, travelling overnight on the Kumaon Express from Mathura to Lalkuan in air-conditioned sleeper carriages (see above).
Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-2.5 hours.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients
Days 1 - 2
We take the British Airways overnight flight from London, direct to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi on the morning of Day 2, where (depending on flight arrival time) we may take breakfast at an airport hotel prior to boarding our coach and heading south to Bharatpur.
As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the capital, well experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws, Oriental Magpie-robins sit up boldly atop rooftops and walls, and the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. Very soon we are travelling through a rural landscape of bustling villages, passing a myriad of roadside pools adorned with Black-winged Stilts, Red-wattled Lapwings and House Crows; we may even see our first Indian Peafowl along the way.
It's about a four-hour drive to Bharatpur, where we should arrive in time to enjoy lunch and a rest at our hotel, which will be our base for a three-night stay. As the afternoon heat subsides, well pay a first visit to the world famous Keoladeo Sanctuary - better known simply as 'Bharatpur' - for a first look at its magical wetlands.
Overnight Bharatpur
Days 3 - 4
During the next two days, we will explore this fabulously rich but surprisingly compact reserve, covering most of the different habitats and their associated birds as well as searching for a number of local and, in many cases, elusive species.
It is Bharatpur's waterbirds that are its crowning glory, often crowding onto the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle freely with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar species. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the marshy shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-breasted Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Red-naped Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill.
The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can expect to encounter Steppe, Tawny, Imperial, Booted, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Marsh Harrier - and probably many more.
Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Oriental Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common here and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are fortunate we may dig out a handsome Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident here,
In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialties as Yellow-crowned and Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Horned-Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, White-tailed Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but highly desirable species. The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Wood Shrike, White-cheeked Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet!
[In the event the summer monsoon rains have failed and Bharatpur's water is depleted, on one day we have the option to visit the Bund Bharetha reservoir for wetland birds, spending the remainder of our time exploring the wealth of other outstanding bird-rich habitats within Bharatpur's remarkable Keoladeo Sanctuary.]
Two nights Bharatpur
Day 5
Leaving Bharatpur early this morning, we head directly to Agra and the Taj Mahal (about an hours drive away), so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of tourists start to arrive. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of this magnificent building - constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring, and one that never disappoints.
Once we have taken our fill of this marvel of Moghul architecture, we will check the adjacent Yamuna River, where birds abound. Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures are constantly in view overhead, while along the riverbanks we will see many waders, gulls and terns including Red-wattled and River Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, Brown-headed Gull and River Tern. The nearby scrub and manicured gardens are home to Grey Hornbill, Little Green Bee-eaters, Rose-ringed and huge Alexandrine Parakeets, Spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Barbet and Laughing Dove, while inquisitive little Palm Squirrels scamper about our feet in the search for tourist handouts. If we are lucky, we may watch a Laggar Falcon hunting feral pigeons above the city.
A ninety-minute drive will carry us from Agra to our next stop, Chambal Safari Lodge. Situated next to the National Chambal Sanctuary, this pristine stretch of the Chambal River supports a rich and varied ecosystem - a habitat which, regrettably, is becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many of these threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent. In November, the water levels are good, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We'll spend our first afternoon at Chambal exploring this area on foot, then take a boat trip out onto the river the following morning.
During our stay here, we will be treated to some marvellous birds that do not occur at Bharatpur or elsewhere on this tour. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now sadly a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should have no difficulty in seeing this wonderful species. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Little Pratincoles, Great Thick-knees and the monstrous Great Black-headed Gull are among other key species to look forward to at Chambal, while along the river we shall encounter a long list of other waterbirds too - from Little and Great Cormorants, Lesser Whistling-duck and Bar-headed Goose to Ruddy Shelduck, Comb Duck and the more familiar Red-crested Pochard. We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial, a large fish-eating crocodile, and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with turtles and possibly River Otters. If we are fortunate, we may also come across the endangered Gangetic Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of northern India's rivers.
We'll watch for Sand Lark beside the river, where waders are likely to include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints, and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Sand Martin wheel overhead as we check the skies for Osprey, Steppe Eagle and possibly Pallas's Fish Eagle. Turning inland, we can explore the nearby scrub and dry forest for many species typical of northern India, including Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Indian Roller, Barn and Wire-tailed Swallows, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more.
Overnight Chambal Safari Lodge
Day 6
This morning we take our boat safari along the Chambal River, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective, and marvelling at the grace and elegance of the skimmers as they dash past our boat. This is such a delightful location that it will be difficult to tear ourselves away. Before we do so, however, we will take lunch at our lodge.
Although much of the afternoon is taken up with the drive to the railway station at Mathura, we will make stops along the way, perhaps to watch a White-eyed Buzzard or a flock of White-rumped Vultures - the latter sadly now an extremely rare and erratic sight throughout the subcontinent. In the evening, we board the Kumaon Express, the overnight sleeper train that will carry us north across the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain to Lalkuan - near the world famous Corbett National Park - where we arrive the following morning.
Overnight on board train travelling north
Days 7 - 10
We shall be met on arrival at Lalkuan railway station this morning and make the two-hour drive north to Kumeria, on the doorstep of India's oldest and finest national park, Corbett. Extending over 520 square kilometres, Corbett is simply vast! This classic tract of wild India has a special beauty that is vividly described in 'The Maneaters of Kumaon' and other books by Jim Corbett, after whom the park is named. Accommodation within the park itself is extremely limited and to make the most of our four-night stay here we shall spend two nights at Corbett Hideaway, on the edge of the park, followed by two nights at River Lodge, a permanent tented facility located atop a plateau in the heart of the reserve forest and on the banks of the Ramganga River. In addition to providing excellent birding opportunities - both within and around the park - these two lodges offer better standards of accommodation and service to the more basic alternatives available elsewhere.
The forested foothills of Corbett National Park are home to over 400 bird species as well as a healthy population of mammals, including Tigers, Leopards, Indian Elephants, deer including Sambar and Chital, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Sloth Bear, the striking and diurnal Yellow-throated Marten, Common Porcupine and both Common Langur and Rhesus Macaque. At the heart of the park lies Ramganga Lake and its surrounding grasslands, which form a haven for wildlife. Large numbers of the larger mammals are attracted to this stunningly beautiful lake - and we shall also visit it during our stay!
From our lodges, we can explore the fringes of Corbett's magnificent Sal forests and search for some of the parks shyer and more elusive birds such as White-tailed Rubythroat, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Aberrant Bush-warbler. Parties of maniacal White-crested Laughingthrushes crash through the undergrowth while, over our heads, the diminutive Collared Falconet hunts small birds. With luck we may find a Brown Fish Owl roosting by a quiet stream, or even its larger relative, the huge Tawny Fish Owl. Along the nearby Kosi River, impressive Crested Kingfishers pause and dive in search of an unfortunate fish; Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts flit over the boulders, often joined by dapper Spotted and Little Forktails and plump Brown Dippers. With luck, an exquisite Wallcreeper may be foraging along the cliffs or even amongst the boulders of the riverbed itself.
But we can only venture into the depths of the jungle by jeep! As we enter the gloomy forests, the stillness may be broken by the raucous bugle of an advertising peacock, or the barking alarm call of a nervous Chital alerting us to the possibility of a Tiger! Within the park, we are likely to encounter small parties of Kalij Pheasant and Red Jungle Fowl as they scurry from the roadside at the approach of our vehicles. Our time here will pass very quickly as we encounter much of what makes Corbett so special. Exciting birds such as Pallas's Fish and Crested Hawk Eagles, Plum-headed Parakeet, Common Hawk Cuckoo and Crested Tree-swift are widespread residents, while wave after wave of babblers and many wintering Palearctic migrants are sure to make this a most exciting stay.
Eventually, we reach the grasslands near Dhikala that overlook the attractive Ramganga Lake. As the eerie, skeletal forms of drowned trees emerge from the morning mists with their attendant raptors, darters and egrets, some of the birds we may encounter here include Black Stork, Brahminy Kite, Indian Crested and Rufous-bellied Eagles, Black Francolin, Red Turtle Dove, Emerald Dove, Lesser Coucal, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Jungle Owlet and Blue-bearded Bee-eater - with its gruff, barking call sounding quite unlike any bee-eater you have heard before! We should also watch Oriental Pied and the huge Great Hornbill, along with Lineated, Brown-headed, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Streak-throated, Grey-headed, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Woodpeckers, Large Wood-shrike, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Chestnut-capped and Yellow-eyed Babblers, Rufous-gorgeted and Slaty-blue Flycatchers, White-throated Fantail, Grey-breasted Prinia, Tickell's Leaf and Smoky Warblers, Indian Robin and Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches. If we are very fortunate, we may find the sought-after Hodgson's Bushchat, perching on the taller grass near the lake. Almost a third larger than the familiar Stonechat, this increasingly rare and declining chat is a winter visitor here from its breeding grounds in western Mongolia, and in recent years has become one of Corbett's star attractions. Indeed, Corbett's grasslands are probably now the easiest site on our planet at which to watch them, and our drivers will often know the best places in which to seek them out.
Four nights Corbett National Park
Day 11
After enjoying some final birding at Corbett, we will climb slowly (by bus!) into the foothills of the western Himalayas, birding as we go amid some splendidly scenic countryside. As we ascend, the vegetation gradually changes from dry deciduous forest to light coniferous woodland, introducing us to yet another fascinating and equally diverse avifauna. Wallcreeper, Jungle Myna and Crested Bunting are among many possibilities today before we arrive at our hotel in the picturesque lakeside town of Nainital, at the start of an exciting four-night stay.
Now somewhat jaded, this famous hill station was once the summer home for the British ruling establishment during the days of the Raj, providing a refreshing, cool retreat from the oppressive pre-monsoon heat of the Indian plains. It is also home to a surprisingly diverse selection of hill birds, many unique to the western Himalayas. Even within this well-wooded town, we are likely to encounter many of the commoner hill species and the likes of Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Himalayan Bulbul, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Spot-winged, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Red-flanked Bluetail, Olive-backed Pipit, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted Redstarts and the shy Slaty-blue Flycatcher await.
Our own retreat here - the newly-opened Earls Court Hotel - is an old colonial house set in charming landscaped gardens and currently (summer 2007) being refurbished with all modern facilities throughout to provide an appealing alternative to the larger tourist hotels. Located close to the edge of town and dominated by sheer rock peaks over which the magnificent Lammergeier can be seen, Earls Court is situated in a wonderful location. On a clear day, the view from the pine-clad ridges above Nainital is nothing short of breathtaking! Gazing out across the snow-capped giants towards China and Tibet, we may just be able to see the crest of Nanda Devi, at 7,816m, India's highest peak.
Overnight Nainital
Days 12 - 14
We have three full days to enjoy the outstanding birding around the hill station of Nainital. Situated at an elevation of nearly 2,000m and surrounded by peaks that rise to over 2,600m, this popular mountain resort offers spectacular vistas - and a bird list to match. Here in the western Himalayas, the climate is cooler and drier than the forests to the east in Nepal and Bhutan and, because of their more northerly latitude, are home to many species that occur here but no further to the east. The birdlife here is also very different to Corbett and the lowland plains.
After initially exploring the parks, gardens and scrub around the edge of town, we will travel out each day to visit the best birding locations: Sat Tal, Mangoli Valley, Kuprital Valley and Snow View, each with its own special birds. During our stay at Nainital, Himalayan Griffon Vulture, Great Hill Barbet, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned Laughing-thrushes, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Red-headed Tit, Golden Bush Robin and Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker are just a few of the many highlights amongst an impressive list of upland species we hope to see.
Visits to Sat Tal and the Kuprital Valley should produce these and many other delights too, with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, White-tailed Rubythroat, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Black-throated Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting among many to look forward to. We should regularly hear the monotonous call of the endearing Collared Owlet and, by imitating it, we can often bring in small flocks of passerines, intent on mobbing their number one avian predator. With luck, the owl itself may appear, being mobbed by a crowd of angry tits and warblers! Other highlights may include a wintering Chestnut Thrush feeding in a darkened gully or find a wintering flock of Altai Accentors on a roadside slope. There really is so much to see here and our three days should provide a most enjoyable and relaxing finale to this wonderful region.
Three nights Nainital
Days 15 - 16
Leaving Nainital this morning, we drive back down to the Gangetic plain and make our way slowly back to Delhi. We will pause along the way to watch and photograph aspects of unhurried village life. Reaching the mighty River Ganges, we will reflect that this is revered as holy by Hindus, and is the site of innumerable cremations. We have a further chance to possibly catch a glimpse of the elusive Gangetic Dolphin in its murky waters, or to watch a flock of Indian Skimmers roosting on a sand bar, though such sights are now, sadly, becoming increasingly infrequent. But this is mainly a day for travelling, to sit back and enjoy the bustling Indian countryside and to reflect upon the vivid memories and rich experiences of a wonderful holiday.
Evening arrival in Delhi and transfer to an airport hotel for dinner. We have the use of day rooms here to refresh and repack tonight ahead of our transfer back to the airport for our flight home. Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 16, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We stay at a mixture of comfortable tourist hotels and simple but best available lodges, all rooms with en suite facilities.
The River Lodge at Corbett is a permanent tented facility comprising ten well-furnished tents, each with attached private toilets and hot and cold running water. We use this camp in preference to the more basic alternative, Dhikala Lodge. In common with many wildlife camps, River Lodge has no mains electricity, but two solar lanterns are provided per tent and the resort also provides torches for guests to move around the lodge after nightfall. The camp has electric fencing around the perimeter to prevent large mammals from entering - notably elephants, which are attracted to feed in the bamboo that surrounds the camp!
Rail travel is the best way to cover large distances in India and so one night of our tour is spent aboard the Kumaon Express, an overnight sleeping car train, travelling from Mathura to Lalkuan. Accommodation is in second class, air-conditioned carriages (the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each carriage is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts and dinners usually taken at the hotels and lodges. Lunches will be picnics or sit-down meals, according to location.
Walking: Mostly easy but, as one would expect, there are a few moderate uphill walks in the mountains at Nainital, where we will be birding up to an altitude of approx. 2,500m (8,000ft). Owing to the presence of large mammals at Corbett, note that some of our birding here must be done from the vehicle.
Transport: Mostly by coach, but excursions into Bharatpur are by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot as vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve. In Corbett National Park, we will travel by 4WD vehicle - or even elephant (subject to availability and programme)! Visitors to India should keep in mind that large parts of the subcontinent are remote from regional airports, with distances that are too great, too slow or too congested (or all three!) to cover by road, making rail by far the best and most comfortable way in which to travel. To save a long, hot and dusty drive when we transfer north from the plains, there is one rail journey on this tour, travelling overnight on the Kumaon Express from Mathura to Lalkuan in air-conditioned sleeper carriages (see above).
Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-2.5 hours.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients