India
Darjeeling, Sikkim & Assam
Saturday 29 March - Saturday 12 April 2008 (15 days)
Join us on a fabulous tour to Indias Eastern Himalaya, as we ride on elephant back through tall elephant-grass by the mighty Brahmaputra river, birdwatch around a Sikkim monastery below the massive peak of Kangchenjungha, and savour the delights of staying at some old hill-stations in colonial-style hotels: experiences that will seem all the more special as we should encounter few other western tourists in this superb corner of India.
© Elliot Neep/Nature Portfolio
Changeable Hawk-eagle
Darjeeling, Sikkim, Assam... Browse through almost any book dealing with Himalayan wildlife and these names keep appearing in the texts, demonstrating the rich diversity of life in the eastern Himalaya. This great chain of mountains runs from Afghanistan in the west to Burma in the east, dividing two very different faunal regions. To many the Himalayas are great jagged peaks of snow and ice - but although such visions are of breathtaking beauty, it is the forests and jungles lower down that support ninety-five percent of their wildlife.
We begin our travels in Kolkata (Calcutta), with a gentle introduction to the birds of the Indian plains, before flying on to Assam, in the far north-east of India. Here we will visit one of Indias finest National Parks - Kaziranga - famed for its populations of Indian Rhinoceros, Wild Water Buffalo and Asian Elephant, plus an exciting array of birds. Spot-billed Pelican, Greater Adjutant and Pallass Fish Eagle occur, along with grassland specialities from the little-known Jerdons Babbler to the spectacular Bengal Florican.
Next we explore the forests of the middle Himalaya, near Kalimpong and Darjeeling. We will walk through ancient woodlands in search of parties of fulvettas, yuhinas and laughingthrushes, which work through trees festooned with lichens and ferns. As recently as 1975, Sikkim was a mysterious mountain kingdom that had existed for centuries with little contact with the outside world. Now annexed to India, it retains a mystical quality all of its own.
Our tour has been designed to show you both the beauty of the mountains and their fascinating wildlife, without the discomforts of trekking or roughing it. We will ride on elephant-back through tall elephant-grass by the mighty Brahmaputra river, hope to view the massive peak of Kanchenjunga, and experience the delights of staying at some old hill-stations in colonial-style hotels. Experiences that will seem all the more special as we should encounter few other western tourists in this corner of India.
In spring, migrants will be heading north across the mountains and higher altitude species will still be at lower elevations where they have wintered, whilst others will be arriving from southern India to breed in the forests. Resident birds will be in song and some species of epiphytic orchid will already be in flower. Those who have travelled to India before will find that the great majority of the birds will be new to them.
Mike Crewe led our successful spring 2007 tour to Darjeeling, Sikkim and Assam, and this will be his second visit there.
Price: £ 3,495
Single supp.: £ 295
Deposit: £ 400 per person
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of scheduled tourist class flights London-Kolkata outbound and Delhi-London return, with meals on-board as appropriate; domestic flights Kolkata-Guwahati (or Jorhat), Guwahati-Bagdogra and Bagdogra-Delhi; all accommodation, meals and surface transport by coach, jeep and elephant-back; excursions and entry fees to reserves; tips, airport taxes, bird and mammal checklist, and services of the leaders
The price excludes visa costs (c£30), travel insurance, drinks and other personal expenses.
This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.
Principal Leader: Mike Crewe
© Keith Grant/Nature Portfolio
Great Hornbill
Itinerary
Days 1 - 2
We fly from London to Kolkata (Calcutta), arriving there early on the morning of day two and transfer directly to a nearby hotel to rest awhile.
After a late breakfast at our hotel, today we have an opportunity to enjoy a first taste of Indias remarkable birdlife in the citys parks and wetlands. Situated within ten kilometres of the bustling city centre, Santragachi Jheel is hardly the most scenic spot well visit on this tour - but it is a noted wetland site, which plays host to thousands of migratory wildfowl in winter. Protected by local citizens, the birdlife here can be remarkably tame, making it an ideal place to start. Lesser Whistling-ducks are generally abundant, along with good numbers of other waterfowl - some familiar, others less so - including Little Cormorant, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Gadwall, Ferruginous Duck, Fulvous Whistling-duck, Comb Duck and Cotton Pygmy-goose. Bronze-winged Jacanas stalk across the choking Water Hyacinths and we may see the attractive Pheasant-tailed Jacana, too. Despite its location beside the railway tracks, the jheel attracts a wide variety of other lowland Indian species, with Yellow Bittern, Purple Heron, Little and Cattle Egrets, Booted Eagle, White-throated Kingfisher, Little Green Bee-eater, House Swift, Asian Koel, Blyths Reed Warbler, Red-vented Bulbul, Brown Shrike, Black Drongo, Asian Pied Starling, Common Myna and Purple Sunbird among many possibilites.
Two nights Kolkata
Day 3
Leaving Kolkata, we fly east to Guwahati (or Jorhat, according to domestic flight schedules), in Assam. From here, we transfer by road to Kaziranga National Park. Our journey will take much of the day, but we should encounter our first Lesser Adjutants on the way. We shall arrive in the evening for a four-night stay at the Wild Grass Lodge Resort.
Located within a stones throw of Kaziranga National Park, our lodge, the Wild Grass Resort, is the place to stay here. It is a simple but clean and comfortable tourist lodge, with a large dining hall and accommodation in the form of chalet blocks, with en suite washing facilities. The lodge complex is set in leafy grounds and many birds can be seen and heard in the gardens, or the quiet groves of the tea plantation behind.
Overnight Kaziranga National Park
Days 4 - 6
Kaziranga is nestled in the heart of Assam. Bounded by the Mikir Hills to the south and the mighty Brahmaputra River to the north, the National Park encompasses an area of 430 sq kms of grassland, shallow lakes and lowland forest and is home to many of Indias largest and most endangered mammals. There are Tigers, Wild Water Buffalo and Asian Elephant here, along with the endangered Swamp Deer (now confined to only two other reserves in India) and a substantial proportion of the worlds Indian Rhinoceros population. Though we should have to be very lucky to come across a Tiger, riding on elephant back in the early morning should allow us to get close enough to the see the armour-like folds of skin on the largest of the worlds rhinos - an experience long to be remembered!
Much of the park consists of very tall grasses - tall enough to hide an elephant (elephant-grass!), and plenty big enough to hide many interesting birds! Chestnut-capped Babbler, Golden-headed Cisticola and Striated Grassbird, the largest of the worlds warblers, are among many that find a home here. Indeed, elephant-grassland is a very special habitat that holds a tremendous number of difficult-to-see small birds, from wintering Smoky Warbler, to rare resident specialities like Rufous-rumped and Bristled Grassbirds, Slender-billed and Jerdons Babblers, Finns Weaver and the endemic Swamp Prinia. With luck well encounter a selection of these, but its not an easy habitat to work - especially from the back of an elephant!
More conspicuous will be the waterbirds. Spot-billed Pelicans and Asian Openbill Storks are the most obvious, with the king-size Black-necked Stork dwarfing nearby Woolly-necked Storks. The very large Lesser Adjutant will seem something of a misnomer - unless and until we are fortunate enough to come across one alongside the immense and endangered Greater Adjutant, a species which is now virtually confined to Assam. Not far from the waterside we should be able to find a covey of Swamp Francolins and maybe even the shy Watercock. Flocks of Bar-headed Geese pause here on their northbound migration, before setting off to cross the highest peaks on earth to reach their Tibetan breeding grounds. Nearby paddyfields host migrant waders, including Pintail and Swinhoes Snipes, Pacific Golden Plover and the scarce Grey-headed Lapwing.
This abundance of life attracts a variety of raptors, too. Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle and the increasingly rare Pallass Fish Eagle (which has disappeared from vast tracts of its former range) will be eagerly sought, resident species that are joined in winter by Greater Spotted Eagles from the forests of Siberia, whilst the sight of exquisite male Pied Harriers quartering the grassland will be a memory to treasure for a lifetime.
Flanking the seemingly endless tea-plantations in the nearby foothills, a dense tangle of creepers sweeps down to clothe the edge of the rich forest, where we will walk the trails searching for such exotics as Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Green Imperial Pigeon, Red-headed Trogon and the massive Great and Wreathed Hornbills. Black Baza, Puff-throated Babbler, Green-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos are all here while the combined chorus from buzzing cicadas (some sounding surprisingly like chain-saws!), the bubbling of barbets and the rhythmic chonking of Striped Tit Babblers vanish into the background if a troop of Hoolock Gibbons should start up! With their weird, far-carrying wailing and screaming cries, the latter are far more easily heard than seen in the dense jungles.
Three nights Kaziranga National Park
Day 7
Reluctantly leaving Kaziranga behind, we drive back to Guwahati to take a flight to Bagdogra, close to the frontier with Bangladesh. It is a short drive to the nearby town of Siliguri, where we shall check in at Sinclairs Hotel for an overnight stay, passing the memorial to Tensing Norgay on the way.
Siliguri is the gateway town to the eastern Himalayan hill stations and travellers bound for Darjeeling, Sikkim and even Bhutan pass through here. Nearby, quite extensive areas of lowland and foothill forest remain and, if time permits, we shall visit the forest reserve at Sukna later in the day. The Sal forest here can be surprisingly quiet, but the likes of Blue-throated Barbet, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Indian Grey Hornbill, Greater Flameback, Collared Falconet and even genuine wild Indian Peafowl can all be found among a wealth of other exciting birds.
Overnight at Siliguri
Day 8
The Teesta River leaves Lake Chho Lhamo at 5230m in northern Sikkim, dropping an incredible 4923m over the course of a mere 50 miles and gouging a deep divide in the Himalayas, before finally spreading out over the plains at Siliguri.
Today we follow the winding mountain road beside the Teesta and head into the heart of the eastern Himalayas. This first part of the journey will be hot, but patches of foothill forest provide shelter and shade and there will be opportunities for brief exploratory stops in search of Himalayan Flameback, Green-tailed Sunbird, Bronzed Drongo, Green-billed Malkoha and Common Green Magpie. The Teesta valley also provides a corridor for raptor migration and small numbers of Steppe Eagles may be soaring and drifting north along the ridges. Along the rushing river itself, diminutive Plumbeous Water Redstarts and eye-catching White-capped Water Redstarts flycatch from boulders, whilst along the roadside the dark shapes of Blue Whistling Thrushes (the largest thrush in the world) bound away as troops of Assamese Macaques, ever hopeful of getting a few scraps tossed from passing cars, sit patiently.
Eventually the road crosses the Teesta suspension bridge to the east bank of the river and commences its climb on an endless series of hairpins, leaving the heat of the lowlands behind, to the town of Kalimpong. This delightful old hill-station straddles a ridge, commanding a panoramic view of nearby Sikkim, with an impressive backdrop of snowy Himalayan peaks.
In former times Kalimpong was a centre for trade with Tibet, and the Tibetan connection is still obvious in many of the people who have settled there. We shall spend two nights at a charming family-run hotel with a superb garden that will be the envy of anyone interested in Himalayan orchids while Common Green Magpies and White-crested Laughingthrushes can be seen just over the fence!
Overnight Kalimpong
Day 9
After breakfast we will drive along a winding ridge road towards the small town of Lava (Labha). Here only remnants of mixed mid-altitude forest remain - but we can expect to find quite a formidable array of birds. Even at this time of the year many of the birds will be in mixed species flocks. These suddenly appear as twittering and trilling compositions of Chestnut-tailed and Blue-winged Minlas, Silver-eared Mesia, Red-billed Leiothrix, Black-throated Tit, Lemon-rumped and Blyths Leaf Warblers, Whiskered and Rufous-vented Yuhinas, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Grey-hooded, Chestnut-crowned and Black-faced Warblers and many others. Black-faced and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes scamper across dank gullies, whilst the more arboreal Striated Laughingthrush gleans acorns in the oak canopy. The trees are festooned with lichen, clumps of ferns and epiphytic orchids, excellent foraging places for Rufous Sibias and the much rarer Cutia. Shady gullies harbour Rufous-capped Babblers and Pygmy Wren-babblers, the latter uttering their monotonous, metallic see-saw call.
Lying close to the border of Bhutan, Lava is famed for sheltering many of the rarer eastern Himalayan species. It will take a deal of luck to find such elusive birds as Blue-fronted Robin or Red-faced Liocichla, but we have a good chance of the gorgeous Scarlet Finch here, and even the tiny Golden Babbler. In the evening, we return for a second night at our hotel in Kalimpong.
Overnight Kalimpong
Days 10 - 11
From Kalimpong to Pemayangtse it is not far as the eagle flies, but our journey by road will take up most of the day. We descend back to the heat of the Teesta River and cross the border into the tiny Himalayan former kingdom of Sikkim. Following the banks of the Rangit River, well pause to search the riverside trees for the little-known Yellow-vented Warbler and to scan the wide expanses of shingle for the peculiar Ibisbill. This unique wader breeds by stony rivers high on the Tibetan plateau, descending into the foothills in winter; in spring we have a very good chance of finding a small migrant party on their way home.
After one final riverside stop to search for Brown Dipper and the huge Crested Kingfisher, the road suddenly climbs up the mountainside with yet another series of hairpins, finally cresting a ridge at 2000m to the monastery of Pemayangtse. This is Sikkims most important monastery, built in 1705 in view of the holy mountain "Khangchendzongha", and is the only place where the former Choygals (kings) of Sikkim were permitted to be crowned. Being a very holy place, the relict patches of surrounding forest are safe, but elsewhere many trees have been cleared, the steep hillsides reduced to a maze of terraces and, of course, blighted by inevitable erosion. However, we can only marvel at the superhuman effort involved in building this remarkable road, which until a few years ago was merely a trekking trail.
Once the summer retreat of the royal familiy of Sikkim, our recently upgraded hotel in Pemayangtse - where we will be staying for two nights - offers magnificent views of the snow-capped Himalayas. At 8603m, the imposing massif of Kangchenjunga dominates the scene. We shall be out at sunrise, waiting for the early morning mist to clear, looking down on the lower slopes and, if we are fortunate and the day is clear, gazing in awe at the spectacular vista of the snowy high Himalaya. Ashy Drongo, Black and Striated Bulbuls, Great Barbet and Grey Treepie should appear as the sun strikes the tree tops, whilst Grey-winged Blackbird and Tickells Thrush forage along the ridge and Yellow-breasted Greenfinches twitter in the weedy gardens.
A walk along a trail at Rabdentse through moss-festooned oaks and stands of Japanese Cedar can be very productive: Mountain Hawk-eagle, Bay and Crimson-breasted Woodpeckers, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, Red-tailed Minla, Stripe-throated Yuhina, White-tailed Robin, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and Mrs Goulds Sunbird are amongst the wealth of birdlife to be found here. If we are extremely lucky, we might even encounter the little-known Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, while parties of Nepal House Martins and newly-arriving Fork-tailed Swifts and White-throated Needletails swirl above the ridge.
If a ceremony is in progress at the monastery the cacophony of blaring temple horns, clashing cymbals and droning chants will fill the air. This coupled with the shaven-headed, red-robed monks, colourful thankas and the smell from hundreds of flickering butter lamps will make our visit an experience never to be forgotten. We can walk in the main chamber whilst all of this is going on, savouring the atmosphere of the holy occasion.
Two nights Pemayangtse
Days 12 - 13
After some final birding at Pemayangtse, we will load-up and descend to the rushing Rangit and Teesta Rivers. Once again, our journey through the eastern Himalayas is not a long one - you can see Darjeeling from Pemayangtse - but, with several birding stops, the terrain ensures that it will take most of the day to get to the famous hill-station.
Crossing the Teesta, the road winds up through forest, with cleared areas of tea and quinine plantations, until we reach the ridge and drive into the hustle and bustle of the narrow streets of Darjeeling. This large market town has always been of great strategic importance, both in the days of the Raj and today in modern India, providing a narrow buffer zone between the ancient kingdoms of Nepal and Sikkim, close to the border with Tibet. We will spend the next two nights at the delightful Cedar Inn Hotel, which still holds an air of old colonial days about it.
We shall spend most of day thirteen exploring the forested hills and bamboo thickets near the town. Many of the birds will by now have become familiar to us, but each valley seems to hold a slightly different selection of species. We will be particularly looking out for Brownish-flanked and Aberrant Bush-warblers, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous-bellied and Large Niltavas, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Scaly Laughingthrush, Streaked Spiderhunter and the little known Broad-billed Warbler and Yellow-throated Fulvetta. Streamside gullys are the haunt of skulkers and we have a good chance of finding the elegant Spotted Forktail, the almost grotesque Long-billed Thrush and the extremely localised Rufous-throated Wren-babbler (endemic to the Sikkim region). Areas of the hillside still have patches of bamboo, favoured by Black-throated Parrotbills which move in large, twittering flocks and recall miniature Bearded Reedlings.
Later in the afternoon there will be an opportunity to do some souvenir hunting, savouring the quaint roadside stalls and shops of Darjeeling. Those not wishing to shop will be able to continue birding in a small woodland area by the hotel, which can be an excellent place for migrants at this exciting time of the year.
Two nights Darjeeling.
Days 14 - 15
If it is clear, we will be able to say our farewells to the magnificence of Kangchenjunga, one of the Himalayas mightiest peaks, looming on the horizon to the north of Darjeeling. After breakfast, we turn our backs on the mountains and take the winding road back down to the plains of Bengal. For most of the route, the road follows and criss-crosses the narrow gauge track of the little steam train that puffs and whistles its way to Siliguri.
We arrive in Bagdogra in time to catch the afternoon flight to Delhi, where we transfer to an airport hotel. Here we have the use of day rooms to allow us to freshen up before enjoying a farewell dinner tonight.
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 15, with arrival back in London later that same morning, at the conclusion of a thrilling tour.
Accommodation: Comfortable hotels and lodges of a good standard throughout; all rooms have private facilities. At Pemayangste, Kalimpong and Darjeeling, the hotels are particularly attractive in their quaint, old-fashioned Colonial-style. At Kaziranga, we stay at the simple but comfortable Wild Grass Lodge.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts, dinners and some lunches will be at our hotels; there will be some picnic lunches.
Walking: Easy (1-4 kms on forest trails). Due to presence of large mammals, limited walking is possible at Kaziranga NP, except for a few stop-off points or escorted walks. At Pemayangtse and Darjeeling we will be walking at an elevation of around 2000m; the trails are not steep and, where possible, we will drive up and walk back downhill, where our vehicle will pick us up again.
Elevation: The highest points on this tour are Tiger Hill (max. 2600m), Darjeeling itself (2500), Pemayangtse and Lava (2200m), and Kalimpong (1300m).
Ground Transport: We travel by small coach, jeep - and elephant!
Numbers: Max. 12 clients
Days 1 - 2
We fly from London to Kolkata (Calcutta), arriving there early on the morning of day two and transfer directly to a nearby hotel to rest awhile.
After a late breakfast at our hotel, today we have an opportunity to enjoy a first taste of Indias remarkable birdlife in the citys parks and wetlands. Situated within ten kilometres of the bustling city centre, Santragachi Jheel is hardly the most scenic spot well visit on this tour - but it is a noted wetland site, which plays host to thousands of migratory wildfowl in winter. Protected by local citizens, the birdlife here can be remarkably tame, making it an ideal place to start. Lesser Whistling-ducks are generally abundant, along with good numbers of other waterfowl - some familiar, others less so - including Little Cormorant, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Gadwall, Ferruginous Duck, Fulvous Whistling-duck, Comb Duck and Cotton Pygmy-goose. Bronze-winged Jacanas stalk across the choking Water Hyacinths and we may see the attractive Pheasant-tailed Jacana, too. Despite its location beside the railway tracks, the jheel attracts a wide variety of other lowland Indian species, with Yellow Bittern, Purple Heron, Little and Cattle Egrets, Booted Eagle, White-throated Kingfisher, Little Green Bee-eater, House Swift, Asian Koel, Blyths Reed Warbler, Red-vented Bulbul, Brown Shrike, Black Drongo, Asian Pied Starling, Common Myna and Purple Sunbird among many possibilites.
Two nights Kolkata
Day 3
Leaving Kolkata, we fly east to Guwahati (or Jorhat, according to domestic flight schedules), in Assam. From here, we transfer by road to Kaziranga National Park. Our journey will take much of the day, but we should encounter our first Lesser Adjutants on the way. We shall arrive in the evening for a four-night stay at the Wild Grass Lodge Resort.
Located within a stones throw of Kaziranga National Park, our lodge, the Wild Grass Resort, is the place to stay here. It is a simple but clean and comfortable tourist lodge, with a large dining hall and accommodation in the form of chalet blocks, with en suite washing facilities. The lodge complex is set in leafy grounds and many birds can be seen and heard in the gardens, or the quiet groves of the tea plantation behind.
Overnight Kaziranga National Park
Days 4 - 6
Kaziranga is nestled in the heart of Assam. Bounded by the Mikir Hills to the south and the mighty Brahmaputra River to the north, the National Park encompasses an area of 430 sq kms of grassland, shallow lakes and lowland forest and is home to many of Indias largest and most endangered mammals. There are Tigers, Wild Water Buffalo and Asian Elephant here, along with the endangered Swamp Deer (now confined to only two other reserves in India) and a substantial proportion of the worlds Indian Rhinoceros population. Though we should have to be very lucky to come across a Tiger, riding on elephant back in the early morning should allow us to get close enough to the see the armour-like folds of skin on the largest of the worlds rhinos - an experience long to be remembered!
Much of the park consists of very tall grasses - tall enough to hide an elephant (elephant-grass!), and plenty big enough to hide many interesting birds! Chestnut-capped Babbler, Golden-headed Cisticola and Striated Grassbird, the largest of the worlds warblers, are among many that find a home here. Indeed, elephant-grassland is a very special habitat that holds a tremendous number of difficult-to-see small birds, from wintering Smoky Warbler, to rare resident specialities like Rufous-rumped and Bristled Grassbirds, Slender-billed and Jerdons Babblers, Finns Weaver and the endemic Swamp Prinia. With luck well encounter a selection of these, but its not an easy habitat to work - especially from the back of an elephant!
More conspicuous will be the waterbirds. Spot-billed Pelicans and Asian Openbill Storks are the most obvious, with the king-size Black-necked Stork dwarfing nearby Woolly-necked Storks. The very large Lesser Adjutant will seem something of a misnomer - unless and until we are fortunate enough to come across one alongside the immense and endangered Greater Adjutant, a species which is now virtually confined to Assam. Not far from the waterside we should be able to find a covey of Swamp Francolins and maybe even the shy Watercock. Flocks of Bar-headed Geese pause here on their northbound migration, before setting off to cross the highest peaks on earth to reach their Tibetan breeding grounds. Nearby paddyfields host migrant waders, including Pintail and Swinhoes Snipes, Pacific Golden Plover and the scarce Grey-headed Lapwing.
This abundance of life attracts a variety of raptors, too. Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle and the increasingly rare Pallass Fish Eagle (which has disappeared from vast tracts of its former range) will be eagerly sought, resident species that are joined in winter by Greater Spotted Eagles from the forests of Siberia, whilst the sight of exquisite male Pied Harriers quartering the grassland will be a memory to treasure for a lifetime.
Flanking the seemingly endless tea-plantations in the nearby foothills, a dense tangle of creepers sweeps down to clothe the edge of the rich forest, where we will walk the trails searching for such exotics as Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Green Imperial Pigeon, Red-headed Trogon and the massive Great and Wreathed Hornbills. Black Baza, Puff-throated Babbler, Green-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos are all here while the combined chorus from buzzing cicadas (some sounding surprisingly like chain-saws!), the bubbling of barbets and the rhythmic chonking of Striped Tit Babblers vanish into the background if a troop of Hoolock Gibbons should start up! With their weird, far-carrying wailing and screaming cries, the latter are far more easily heard than seen in the dense jungles.
Three nights Kaziranga National Park
Day 7
Reluctantly leaving Kaziranga behind, we drive back to Guwahati to take a flight to Bagdogra, close to the frontier with Bangladesh. It is a short drive to the nearby town of Siliguri, where we shall check in at Sinclairs Hotel for an overnight stay, passing the memorial to Tensing Norgay on the way.
Siliguri is the gateway town to the eastern Himalayan hill stations and travellers bound for Darjeeling, Sikkim and even Bhutan pass through here. Nearby, quite extensive areas of lowland and foothill forest remain and, if time permits, we shall visit the forest reserve at Sukna later in the day. The Sal forest here can be surprisingly quiet, but the likes of Blue-throated Barbet, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Indian Grey Hornbill, Greater Flameback, Collared Falconet and even genuine wild Indian Peafowl can all be found among a wealth of other exciting birds.
Overnight at Siliguri
Day 8
The Teesta River leaves Lake Chho Lhamo at 5230m in northern Sikkim, dropping an incredible 4923m over the course of a mere 50 miles and gouging a deep divide in the Himalayas, before finally spreading out over the plains at Siliguri.
Today we follow the winding mountain road beside the Teesta and head into the heart of the eastern Himalayas. This first part of the journey will be hot, but patches of foothill forest provide shelter and shade and there will be opportunities for brief exploratory stops in search of Himalayan Flameback, Green-tailed Sunbird, Bronzed Drongo, Green-billed Malkoha and Common Green Magpie. The Teesta valley also provides a corridor for raptor migration and small numbers of Steppe Eagles may be soaring and drifting north along the ridges. Along the rushing river itself, diminutive Plumbeous Water Redstarts and eye-catching White-capped Water Redstarts flycatch from boulders, whilst along the roadside the dark shapes of Blue Whistling Thrushes (the largest thrush in the world) bound away as troops of Assamese Macaques, ever hopeful of getting a few scraps tossed from passing cars, sit patiently.
Eventually the road crosses the Teesta suspension bridge to the east bank of the river and commences its climb on an endless series of hairpins, leaving the heat of the lowlands behind, to the town of Kalimpong. This delightful old hill-station straddles a ridge, commanding a panoramic view of nearby Sikkim, with an impressive backdrop of snowy Himalayan peaks.
In former times Kalimpong was a centre for trade with Tibet, and the Tibetan connection is still obvious in many of the people who have settled there. We shall spend two nights at a charming family-run hotel with a superb garden that will be the envy of anyone interested in Himalayan orchids while Common Green Magpies and White-crested Laughingthrushes can be seen just over the fence!
Overnight Kalimpong
Day 9
After breakfast we will drive along a winding ridge road towards the small town of Lava (Labha). Here only remnants of mixed mid-altitude forest remain - but we can expect to find quite a formidable array of birds. Even at this time of the year many of the birds will be in mixed species flocks. These suddenly appear as twittering and trilling compositions of Chestnut-tailed and Blue-winged Minlas, Silver-eared Mesia, Red-billed Leiothrix, Black-throated Tit, Lemon-rumped and Blyths Leaf Warblers, Whiskered and Rufous-vented Yuhinas, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Grey-hooded, Chestnut-crowned and Black-faced Warblers and many others. Black-faced and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes scamper across dank gullies, whilst the more arboreal Striated Laughingthrush gleans acorns in the oak canopy. The trees are festooned with lichen, clumps of ferns and epiphytic orchids, excellent foraging places for Rufous Sibias and the much rarer Cutia. Shady gullies harbour Rufous-capped Babblers and Pygmy Wren-babblers, the latter uttering their monotonous, metallic see-saw call.
Lying close to the border of Bhutan, Lava is famed for sheltering many of the rarer eastern Himalayan species. It will take a deal of luck to find such elusive birds as Blue-fronted Robin or Red-faced Liocichla, but we have a good chance of the gorgeous Scarlet Finch here, and even the tiny Golden Babbler. In the evening, we return for a second night at our hotel in Kalimpong.
Overnight Kalimpong
Days 10 - 11
From Kalimpong to Pemayangtse it is not far as the eagle flies, but our journey by road will take up most of the day. We descend back to the heat of the Teesta River and cross the border into the tiny Himalayan former kingdom of Sikkim. Following the banks of the Rangit River, well pause to search the riverside trees for the little-known Yellow-vented Warbler and to scan the wide expanses of shingle for the peculiar Ibisbill. This unique wader breeds by stony rivers high on the Tibetan plateau, descending into the foothills in winter; in spring we have a very good chance of finding a small migrant party on their way home.
After one final riverside stop to search for Brown Dipper and the huge Crested Kingfisher, the road suddenly climbs up the mountainside with yet another series of hairpins, finally cresting a ridge at 2000m to the monastery of Pemayangtse. This is Sikkims most important monastery, built in 1705 in view of the holy mountain "Khangchendzongha", and is the only place where the former Choygals (kings) of Sikkim were permitted to be crowned. Being a very holy place, the relict patches of surrounding forest are safe, but elsewhere many trees have been cleared, the steep hillsides reduced to a maze of terraces and, of course, blighted by inevitable erosion. However, we can only marvel at the superhuman effort involved in building this remarkable road, which until a few years ago was merely a trekking trail.
Once the summer retreat of the royal familiy of Sikkim, our recently upgraded hotel in Pemayangtse - where we will be staying for two nights - offers magnificent views of the snow-capped Himalayas. At 8603m, the imposing massif of Kangchenjunga dominates the scene. We shall be out at sunrise, waiting for the early morning mist to clear, looking down on the lower slopes and, if we are fortunate and the day is clear, gazing in awe at the spectacular vista of the snowy high Himalaya. Ashy Drongo, Black and Striated Bulbuls, Great Barbet and Grey Treepie should appear as the sun strikes the tree tops, whilst Grey-winged Blackbird and Tickells Thrush forage along the ridge and Yellow-breasted Greenfinches twitter in the weedy gardens.
A walk along a trail at Rabdentse through moss-festooned oaks and stands of Japanese Cedar can be very productive: Mountain Hawk-eagle, Bay and Crimson-breasted Woodpeckers, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler, Red-tailed Minla, Stripe-throated Yuhina, White-tailed Robin, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and Mrs Goulds Sunbird are amongst the wealth of birdlife to be found here. If we are extremely lucky, we might even encounter the little-known Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, while parties of Nepal House Martins and newly-arriving Fork-tailed Swifts and White-throated Needletails swirl above the ridge.
If a ceremony is in progress at the monastery the cacophony of blaring temple horns, clashing cymbals and droning chants will fill the air. This coupled with the shaven-headed, red-robed monks, colourful thankas and the smell from hundreds of flickering butter lamps will make our visit an experience never to be forgotten. We can walk in the main chamber whilst all of this is going on, savouring the atmosphere of the holy occasion.
Two nights Pemayangtse
Days 12 - 13
After some final birding at Pemayangtse, we will load-up and descend to the rushing Rangit and Teesta Rivers. Once again, our journey through the eastern Himalayas is not a long one - you can see Darjeeling from Pemayangtse - but, with several birding stops, the terrain ensures that it will take most of the day to get to the famous hill-station.
Crossing the Teesta, the road winds up through forest, with cleared areas of tea and quinine plantations, until we reach the ridge and drive into the hustle and bustle of the narrow streets of Darjeeling. This large market town has always been of great strategic importance, both in the days of the Raj and today in modern India, providing a narrow buffer zone between the ancient kingdoms of Nepal and Sikkim, close to the border with Tibet. We will spend the next two nights at the delightful Cedar Inn Hotel, which still holds an air of old colonial days about it.
We shall spend most of day thirteen exploring the forested hills and bamboo thickets near the town. Many of the birds will by now have become familiar to us, but each valley seems to hold a slightly different selection of species. We will be particularly looking out for Brownish-flanked and Aberrant Bush-warblers, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous-bellied and Large Niltavas, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Scaly Laughingthrush, Streaked Spiderhunter and the little known Broad-billed Warbler and Yellow-throated Fulvetta. Streamside gullys are the haunt of skulkers and we have a good chance of finding the elegant Spotted Forktail, the almost grotesque Long-billed Thrush and the extremely localised Rufous-throated Wren-babbler (endemic to the Sikkim region). Areas of the hillside still have patches of bamboo, favoured by Black-throated Parrotbills which move in large, twittering flocks and recall miniature Bearded Reedlings.
Later in the afternoon there will be an opportunity to do some souvenir hunting, savouring the quaint roadside stalls and shops of Darjeeling. Those not wishing to shop will be able to continue birding in a small woodland area by the hotel, which can be an excellent place for migrants at this exciting time of the year.
Two nights Darjeeling.
Days 14 - 15
If it is clear, we will be able to say our farewells to the magnificence of Kangchenjunga, one of the Himalayas mightiest peaks, looming on the horizon to the north of Darjeeling. After breakfast, we turn our backs on the mountains and take the winding road back down to the plains of Bengal. For most of the route, the road follows and criss-crosses the narrow gauge track of the little steam train that puffs and whistles its way to Siliguri.
We arrive in Bagdogra in time to catch the afternoon flight to Delhi, where we transfer to an airport hotel. Here we have the use of day rooms to allow us to freshen up before enjoying a farewell dinner tonight.
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 15, with arrival back in London later that same morning, at the conclusion of a thrilling tour.
Accommodation: Comfortable hotels and lodges of a good standard throughout; all rooms have private facilities. At Pemayangste, Kalimpong and Darjeeling, the hotels are particularly attractive in their quaint, old-fashioned Colonial-style. At Kaziranga, we stay at the simple but comfortable Wild Grass Lodge.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts, dinners and some lunches will be at our hotels; there will be some picnic lunches.
Walking: Easy (1-4 kms on forest trails). Due to presence of large mammals, limited walking is possible at Kaziranga NP, except for a few stop-off points or escorted walks. At Pemayangtse and Darjeeling we will be walking at an elevation of around 2000m; the trails are not steep and, where possible, we will drive up and walk back downhill, where our vehicle will pick us up again.
Elevation: The highest points on this tour are Tiger Hill (max. 2600m), Darjeeling itself (2500), Pemayangtse and Lava (2200m), and Kalimpong (1300m).
Ground Transport: We travel by small coach, jeep - and elephant!
Numbers: Max. 12 clients