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Western Greece

Wildlife & History

Wednesday 26 April - Saturday 6 May 2006 (11 days)

Join our acclaimed 'Wildlife and History' team, Stephanie Coghlan and Gareth Trewartha on a new and imaginative tour to another 'undiscovered' part of Greece: the west coast, with its bird-rich lagoons, flower-rich gorges, hill-top monasteries and stunning historical sites.

The Amvrakikos Gulf is a deep indentation in the western coastline of Greece. It covers an area of about 405 square kilometres and is connected to the Ionian Sea by a very narrow, shallow channel - the Strait of Aktion. It takes the form of a nearly closed-off "inland sea" reaching to the foot of the Makrinoros Mountains to the east, the plain of Arta to the north, the peninsula of Preveza to the west and the foothills of the Akarnanika Mountains to the south. It is not an area frequented much by non-Greek tourists.

The whole area of the Amvrakikos Gulf and wetlands has been designated one of Greece's eleven Ramsar sites and is now protected as a National Park. Efforts are being made to promote local environmental awareness of the importance of the area and to encourage eco-tourism. At the heart of this initiative is the Rodia Wetlands Centre, where the staff introduce visitors to the flora and fauna of the wetlands and to the fishing methods used locally. Eels are caught in traditional traps, and this helps fund the activities of the centre.

From here we take a boat trip to look for the rare Dalmatian Pelican which breeds here, and the herd of water buffalo, which have been reintroduced in order to maintain the diversity of wetland through their grazing. We shall also visit the nearby remains of a Roman farm where the stone presses used for extracting olive oil are still in place, and get an excellent view over the wetlands from nearby St. Catherine's Hill.

The area is dotted with other places of interest. There is the Old Bridge at Arta built by the Turks in the 1700s over the Arachthos river; the Lighthouse at Kopraina which is now a museum showing how lighthouses work and the way of life of the lighthouse keeper; the hilltop fortress of Rogia and its church to the Virgin Mary with a splendid view over the plain; the seaside town of Preveza with its harbour full of expensive looking yachts and its broad seaside promenade lined with cafes and tavernas; and the small town of Menedi near the mouth of the Arachthos river. In spring there are also myriads of wild flowers including a superb array of orchids.

Like our Peloponnese tour, this tour has been designed by Stephanie Coghlan and organised by Gareth Trewartha, a tour operator and historical guide living in Greece. We are delighted that Gareth has again agreed to accompany the tour throughout, with his unrivalled local knowledge - not just of the historical sites, but some excellent local tavernas and picnic spots, too!

Itinerary
Day 1

We fly from London-Athens, where Gareth will be waiting to greet us, and we head for our hotel in time for an evening meal.
Overnight Athens

Day 2

We spend a morning visiting the Acropolis in the company of a local historical guide, keeping an eye out for Alpine and Pallid Swifts overhead. The whole area is now clean, pedestrianised, and remarkably quiet, and makes an excellent place for a picnic lunch, before we head west to the Gulf of Arta, stopping at a lagoon which should hold wildfowl and Greater Flamingo. We stay here for four nights.
Overnight Arta

Day 3

Next day we head for the Rodia Wetland Centre, the heart of the Amvrakikos Gulf National Park. Nightingales sing around the centre and nearby Roman Olive Mill ruins, and we'll spend a little time looking at the displays before heading off in boats down the reed-fringed channel. Penduline Tits call from the willows, while Squacco Herons and Little Egrets throng the flooded fields before we reach the open waters of the lagoon itself. All three marsh terns together with Common and Little Tern hunt over the water, while Black-necked Grebes in smart breeding plumage dive to feed. We'll stop at a small monastery, with frescos in its chapel, on the edge of the lagoon, with singing Golden Orioles and breeding Black-eared Wheatears nearby. In the centre of the lagoon is a fisherman's hut, now converted as a superb picnic area and equipped with boardwalks and tower hides overlooking the lagoon and reedbeds. Here White Pelicans soar overhead at midday, along with raptors that can include Lesser Spotted Eagle.

In the afternoon we'll walk up a nearby hill for flowers and another good view over the lagoon, before heading back to Arta. We have dinner in a local restaurant where fireflies dance in the dusk and Scops Owls call from the plane trees.
Overnight Arta

Day 4

We travel to Salaora, another area of saline lagoons. At this time of year the mudflats should be thronged with passage waders as well as locally-breeding Black-winged Stilts, but the star bird here is Dalmatian Pelican. This is one of the few sites where this globally-endangered species breeds - one of the main reasons for the area's protection.

After a taverna lunch we walk across a causeway to a small island with an array of orchids and other flowers, and will also have time to visit the lighthouse at Kopraina.
Overnight Arta

Day 5

Since this coast is the part of Greece nearest to Italy, it is also the area where the Roman influence is most evident. In 31 B.C Octavian (later to become Augustus Caesar) defeated Anthony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Aktion (Actium) an engagement fought at sea just outside the entrance to the Gulf, thereby making himself the sole master of the Roman Empire. He then went on to celebrate his victory by using his spoils of war to build a city, Nikopolis (Nike is the Greek word for "victory") commemorating the event.

Today we visit the ruins of Nikopolis, which stretch over a vast area overlooking the north shore of the Gulf. Unfortunately many of the buildings are in now a state of disrepair and can only be viewed from the outside but one can still get a clear impression of the scale of the undertaking.

This can be an excellent area for migrants, and we'll also watch for Woodchat and Red-backed Shrikes, Bee-eaters, Whinchats, Yellow Wagtails of various races, and raptors including Red-footed Falcon, which can turn up almost anywhere.
Overnight Arta

Day 6

We depart for Ioannina today, first visiting the hilltop fortress of Rogia with its superb view across the plain. We continue to Zalongo. Here, atop a toweringly steep cliff, a modern monument commemorates the bravery of a group of women patriots, who, in 1803, when their struggle for independence against the Turkish ruler Ali Pasha was finally facing defeat, danced one by one off the edge of the cliff choosing death rather than enslavement. Today the cliffs are home to Rock Nuthatches and Blue Rock Thrushes.

We picnic by a river, complete with Dipper and Grey Wagtail, and a nearby Roman Aqueduct before heading for our ferry which takes us across to the island of Ioannina, where we stay at the smart Hotel du Lac.
Overnight Ioannina

Day 7

Ioannina Lagoons are another superb birdwatching area, with Great Reed, Cetti's and Fan-tailed Warblers and Nightingales in the reedbeds and shore, grebes and other waterfowl on the open water, and Lesser Kestrels over the town. Black-headed Buntings should be arriving now, and singing from the telegraph wires.

In the afternoon we drive north to Vitsa, where we stay in a traditional guest-house.
Overnight Vitsa

Day 8

An early morning walk could produce migrants such as Redstarts and flycatchers. After breakfasting on Greek yoghurt and honey, and Granny's free-range eggs we'll set off for Vikos Gorge, an excellent area for orchids and other flowers, as well as Rock Bunting and Red-billed Chough. We'll spend the whole day in this area, and Papingo, where we have lunch in the garden of a taverna. Small paths make for excellent slow walks, and we'll enjoy the day simply pottering about in the area.
Overnight Vitsa

Day 9

We awake to the sounds of Cuckoos and Nightingales, and will head for the gorge and monastery of Monodendri, where we spend the morning. After a picnic lunch featuring the local delicacy 'pitsa' we'll continue to a viewpoint over the Vikos Gorge before returning to our guesthouse.
Overnight Vitsa

Day 10

After a final taste of Granny's yoghurt and honey we head back east towards Delphi, stopping for coffee, lunch and birdwatching en route.
Overnight Delphi

Day 11

We have a morning in Delphi, visiting the stadium, theatre and sanctuary, before leaving for Athens and our afternoon return flight to London.

Accommodation
We stay in a mixture of good quality hotels and guest-houses with all rooms en suite. Single rooms are available throughout, but some may have to be in nearby accommodation at Vitsa.
Leaders: Stephanie Coghlan and Gareth Trewartha Greece map
Numbers: Max. 12 clients
Price:
£ 2,195
Single supp.: £ 245
Deposit: £ 200 per person
The price per person includes return flight London - Athens, airport taxes, accommodation, all meals, incidental tips, entrance fees, minicoach transport and the services of the leaders.

The price excludes holiday insurance, optional tip to the driver, drinks, and other personal expenses.