We return to the lakes, forests and mountains of wonderful Eastern Austria in spring, at a time when the breeding season is in full swing, and the mountains are in flower, and again in early autumn, with the excitement of passage migrants.
Neusiedl has long been a firm favourite of ours - and with good reason! One of Europe's largest lakes, it's also one of the very best for birds. To the east, lie the splendid wetlands of the Seewinkel and the start of the Great Hungarian Plain; to the north, the fabulous riverine forests of the March; and to the west, the foothills of the Austrian Alps - which we shall access via a splendidly scenic rack-and-pinion railway journey aboard the 'Fire Salamander'. The whole presents a tapestry of habitats surpassed only by the impressive range of birds to be found.
Spring and autumn visits to Lake Neusiedl are always a delight. Wryneck, Serin and Black Redstart are garden birds here and White Storks still build their bulky stick nests on village rooftops. Most of central Europe's long list of special birds occur: Spoonbill, Great White Egret, Ferruginous Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Great Bustard, Bee-eater, Black and Syrian Woodpeckers, Penduline Tit, Golden Oriole, Red-backed Shrike should all be about - busy nesting in May and with noisy families in tow by August. Tucked away corners of reed attract the elusive Bluethroat, while the lakes more open shores, a summer home to Kentish Plover, Avocet and Black-winged Stilt, lure passing waders such as Ruff, Spotted Redshank and Temminck's and Little Stints. Both spring and autumn can be excellent for migrants and we should encounter an array of butterflies, too.
During the week, we'll also enjoy two or three longer days out - travelling west to the alpine habitats of the Hohe Wand and the Schneeberg for the likes of Alpine Chough and Nutcracker, and north to wonderful Marchegg reserve in search of Black Stork, Goshawk and, in spring, Collared Flycatcher.
One of the many joys of visiting the Neusiedl area, however, is that so much of our birdwatching can be done within an hour's drive of our excellent four-star, family-run hotel - itself just a couple of minutes walk from the lake's immense fringing sea of reed. The splendid buffet-style breakfasts and dinners are another delight, and the hotel has its own heated indoor pool for the exclusive use of guests. The pace is thus relaxed, with easy walks and leisurely picnics or sit-down lunches taken at one of the region's many excellent Gasthofs included in the price - and the option of exciting pre-breakfast birdwatching around the lake for those that wish!
Why not join us - spring or autumn - for the best of central European birdwatching?
Itinerary
Day 1
We catch a morning flight from London to Vienna. Less than an hour's drive will bring us to our hotel in the lakeside town of Neusiedl-am-See, which will be our base throughout the holiday, though we may well stop for Crested Larks in a roadside car park on the way! We should arrive in time to enjoy some local birdwatching this afternoon - 'garden' birds to watch for include Icterine Warbler and Nightingale in spring, and Serin and Black Redstart in autumn.
Overnight Neusiedl-am-See
Days 2 - 7
Each day we'll be choosing from a fine array of habitats to visit, according to local conditions prevailing at the time. Within a short walk of our hotel lie some of Neusiedl's vast reedbeds, so good birdwatching begins right at our doorstep. Syrian and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Golden Oriole and Penduline Tit work the marshside willows and poplars, which may harbour almost anything from a troop of brilliantly-coloured Bee-eaters to the more subtle shades of a slim and sinuous Wryneck. Marsh Harriers constantly patrol the shimmering sea of reeds that's home to a host of wetland warblers, including Grasshopper, Savi's, Great Reed, Sedge, Reed, Marsh and even Moustached!
To the south-east of town lies the Seewinkel, a flat agricultural plain studded with lakes that form some of the richest bird habitats of all. The accessibility of these shallow wetlands make them one of the best spots for seeing some of the area's specialities, from breeding Black-necked Grebe, Bittern, Purple Heron and Spoonbill to Greylag Goose, Garganey, Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck. Sadly, numbers of Bluethroats - here of the white-spotted central European form - have dwindled sharply in recent years, making this skulking summer jewel even harder to find. But they have a penchant for patches of freshly-cut reed and it is here that we have our best chances of finding one.
During the spring and autumn months, the muddier margins prove irresistible to passing Little and Temminck's Stints, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff, Spotted Redshank and other migratory shorebirds. And as we weave our way from one lake to the next through the patchwork of meadows, vineyards and thickets, we'll be keeping our eyes peeled for passerine migrants such as Whinchat, Wood Warbler and Pied Flycatcher. During spring and autumn, there's always a chance of the unexpected and past surprises for our groups at Neusiedl have included Glossy Ibis, White-tailed Eagle, Terek Sandpiper, Collared Pratincole, Waxwing and Thrush Nightingale.
The magnificent Great Bustard, now one of Neusiedl's rarest residents, still retains a foothold on the plain. By visiting early in the day, before the grasslands vanish beneath a shimmering sea of heat-haze, we shall hope for views of these impressive birds from a special observation platform that overlooks their Hansag reserve, close by the border with Hungary. Montagu's Harrier, Honey Buzzard, Quail and Red-backed Shrike also frequent this area, and the excitable Barred Warbler is possible here in spring.
To the north of Neusiedl town, lies the splendid Marchegg reserve, a mix of ancient deciduous woodland, marshy backwaters and lush flood meadows, hard on the Slovakian border. River Warblers reel unseen from the thickets in spring and White Storks nest conspicuously in the trees, which also provide cover for forest dwellers such as Grey-headed, Green and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, Collared Flycatcher, Short-toed Treecreeper and Hawfinch. With their snow-white heads, Marchegg's Long-tailed Tits are well worth more than a second glance. As we tuck into our picnic on a raised floodbank overlooking the reserve, we'll scan carefully for Black Stork and birds of prey soaring above the trees; over the years we have seen Red and Black Kites, Goshawk, Red-footed Falcon, Hobby and Saker. Butterflies can be numerous in spring, and may include Lesser Purple Emperor.
Having thoroughly explored Neusiedl's lowlands, we'll venture a little further afield to focus on an exciting range of alpine birds, with visits to the picturesque Hohe Wand and its near neighbour, the Schneeberg.
Meaning 'High Wall', the Hohe Wand is a pine-clad rocky plateau which rises abruptly from the plain about an hour or so's drive west of our hotel. Here we shall walk quiet forest trails in search of Black Woodpecker, Firecrest and Crossbill. Raven and the occasional Peregrine haunt the dramatic cliffs on the sunny, south-facing side, while the meadows below are graced by a fine selection of butterflies. The meadows at the top in autumn also house small colonies of fine gentians, and are a great place to look for noisy Nutcracker.
Marking the easternmost limit of the Alps, the Schneeberg stands twice as high as the Hohe Wand. Access to the summit area is via a delightful rack-and-pinion railway journey aboard the Feuersalmander - painted in dazzling Fire Salamander colours and pattern! Weather permitting, the train will carry us up to the realm of Alpine Choughs and Chamois at around 2000 metres. Winding its way through a classic Austrian landscape of alpine meadows and cool dark pines, the trip is broken with a halt along the way for us to indulge in yet another coffee - not to mention a particularly generous slab of cake that seems to be something of a tradition here!
Western Bonelli's Warbler in spring, along with Nutcracker, Water Pipit and the distinctive 'alpine' forms of Ring Ouzel and Willow Tit, are just some of the delights awaiting our discovery in the hills. And every once in a while, we seem to strike lucky with one of the region's scarcer inhabitants, such as Ptarmigan, Alpine Accentor or even Snowfinch. The alpine flowers can be superb in spring, with many showy gentians and primulas.
Six nights Neusiedl-am-See
Day 8
We have a final morning birdwatching locally before catching an afternoon return flight from Vienna to London.
Accommodation
Our hotel in Neusiedl-am-See is situated within sight of the lake's famous reedbeds, and offers four-star comfort with all rooms en suite. There is an indoor swimming pool - and hot tub! Superb buffet breakfasts & dinners at the hotel. Lunches are our popular mix of picnics and leisurely sit-down meals taken at one of the region's traditional restaurants or Gasthofs.
Transport by minibus; steam train excursion on the Schneeberg.
Walking:
The countryside around the lake is flat and the going easy, with short walks (1-3 miles). A few gentle uphill stretches along good trails in the hills, taken slowly.
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