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Hungary
Sunday 19 - Saturday 25 June 2005
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©Paul Browning/Nature Portfolio  Lesser Purple Emperor |
The glorious hill-forests of the Zemplen are a revelation to Western eyes. While for those with an interest in wildlife there's a special magic. See for yourself on this relaxed and enchanting summer break, as we go in search of a host of wonderful eastern European birds and butterflies.Forming part of Hungary's Northern Highlands, the picturesque Tokaj-Zemplen Hills are an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and historical significance. It's a region famed for its wines, especially those of the dessert variety - which we shall of course sample during our stay! From green forested slopes and beautiful valleys peppered with vineyards and sleepy, red-roofed villages, to sweeping floodplains criss-crossed by lazy rivers, the Zemplen offer an attractive and varied landscape that blends seemlessly with the relaxed nature of this tour. Timeless, tranquil and terrific for wildlife, it's the perfect setting for this 'birds and butterflies' break. With no changes of hotel to worry about during our stay, we shall be free to enjoy a week of easy-paced wildlife exploration amid an 'olde worlde' countryside that's conceded little to the passage of time. Black Storks and Honey Buzzards rise above the shimmering woodland canopy, lifted on thermals of warm summer air, Bee-eaters swoop low to their nests, and there are no fewer than nine species of woodpecker to look for. The Zemplen are especially important for birds of prey and, with the help of our local guides Sándor and Zoli, we have good chances of Lesser Spotted and Imperial Eagles, plus Ural and Eagle Owls too. Butterflies abound on the sun-drenched open slopes. Camberwell Beauty, Scarce Swallowtail, Lesser Fiery Copper, Great Banded Grayling, Pallas's and High Brown Fritillaries, Lesser Purple Emperor and the exquisite Map Butterfly were among more than forty species recorded on the last trip. In June, the weather in eastern Hungary is typically hot and sunny, so we'll take a break from watching birds and butterflies to enjoy a leisurely lunch at a traditional Hungarian csarda (inn), or to picnic at some delightful spot in the forest. Once again we'll be co-led by our good friend Sándor Konyhas, one of Hungary's finest bird and wildlife guides. Itinerary Day 1 We take a morning flight from London to Budapest, where Sándor will be waiting to greet us. Transfer east to the pretty, wine-growing region of Tokaj, a journey of about three hours. Even today, relatively few westerners visit this tucked away corner of Hungary, which lies close to the border with Slovakia. We are based throughout the holiday at a comfortable medium grade hotel, within easy walking distance of the Bodrog River. White Storks clatter from their rooftop nests, Black Redstart, Golden Oriole and Serin are typical village birds, and Bee-eaters frequent the famous vineyards. Overnight Sarospatak Days 2 - 6 With their quarried cliffs and cloaking mantle of oak, hornbeam and beech, the rolling countryside of the Zemplen is not only a delight but outstanding for wildlife. Hawfinches rove the summer slopes, that also provide a home to Rock Thrush, Raven and the secretive Black Stork. Woodpeckers are numerous; nine of Europe's ten species breed in the hills, with Grey-headed, Black, Middle Spotted, Syrian and the ever-elusive White-backed all awaiting our discovery. Beneath the cool shade of the magnificent beech canopy we'll seek the attractive Wood Warbler, while Red-backed Shrikes are still a refreshingly common sight on the more open, scrubbier slopes. With luck, we may find the furtive Barred Warbler here, too. |
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© Jamie McMillan/Nature Portfolio  The Zemplen Hills |
The Zemplen Hills are of international importance for breeding birds of prey; many will have young close to fledging by late June. After watching the summer skies for the likes of Lesser Spotted, Imperial and Short-toed Eagles, Common and Honey Buzzards, Northern Goshawk and Hobby, we'll check some likely spots for two of Europe's biggest owls: Eagle Owl and the scarce Ural Owl. The latter is generally wary of approach but with the help of Zoltan, our resident 'man of the woods', we have good chances of finding one peering intently down at us with dark eyes from the dense leafy canopy.
Meandering across a broad floodplain below the hills, the slow-flowing Bodrog and Tisza rivers spill over to inundate huge areas in winter, creating a mosaic of lush meadows, ox-bow lakes and gallery forest. During the summer months, White-tailed Eagle, Black Kite, Hoopoe, Kingfisher and Great Reed, Savi's and River Warblers are among a wealth of species present. | |
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On one day we shall venture a little further afield, driving south to the edge of Hungary's famous Hortobagy National Park. Red-footed Falcon, Saker and Lesser Grey Shrike occur here, while the region's fish-ponds shelter a range of wetland birds that last time included Red-necked Grebe, Purple Heron, Little Bittern, Spoonbill, Ferruginous Duck, and elegant Black and Whiskered Terns.
A plethora of superb butterflies complete the idyllic summer scene. In typically glorious weather, our last tour to the region produced close on fifty different species, including Swallowtail, Queen of Spain and Silver-washed Fritillaries, Large and Scarce Coppers, Short-tailed and Little Blues, Purple and Blue-spot Hairstreaks, Woodland Grayling, Eastern Bath White and Mallow Skipper. Five nights Sarospatak Day 7 Bidding a reluctant farewell to the Zemplen after breakfast today, we travel back to Budapest. Afternoon flight home to London. Accommodation: will be in a medium grade hotel in Sarospatak; twin & single rooms, all en suite. Meals: All included; breakfast & dinner at the hotel. Lunches will either be taken at a traditional Hungarian inn or csarda, or as picnics in the forest. Walking: Easy walks, some hills but everything taken at a gentle pace. Comfy walking shoes. Leaders: Steve Madge and Sándor Konyhas |
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Numbers : Max. 14 clients Prices: £ 1,095 Single supp.: £ 90 Deposit : £ 200 per person The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of scheduled return flights London-Budapest with meals on-board as appropriate, all accommodation, meals (some wine too), transport, tips to driver & local guides, airport taxes, bird & butterfly checklist & services of the leader/s. The price excludes travel insurance, drinks and other personal expenses. This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays. |
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