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Bhutan
Saturday 9 - Thursday 21 April 2005
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© Pete Coe/Nature Portfolio  Himalayan Snowcock |
Spellbinding birding amidst awe-inspiring landscapes, as we follow in the footsteps of the few through the lush, ancient forests and mountains of this 'lost' Himalayan kingdom. Join us to sample the magic of Bhutan in this shorter, excellent-value trip!Bhutan, a rampart stretch of the Himalaya that nestles between Tibet and India, is not only a land of great jagged snow peaks, but it preserves some of the most extensive remaining tracts of Himalayan forest. Whilst the mountainous terrain has enabled this country of breathtaking beauty and cultural fascination to remain in isolation from the outside world for centuries, Bhutan has now opened its doors to visitors, allowing us to explore this mystical wonderland of birds. Tailor-made to run at an affordable price, our compact tour will show you both the wonder of this fairy-tale mountain kingdom and the very best of its fascinating wildlife - yet without the discomforts of trekking - or of breaking the bank! As we travel along Bhutan's one (remarkably traffic-free) main road, we may encounter some of the world's most sought-after species, many of which have long gone through habitat loss elsewhere in the Himalayas. There are few hotels, so our journey necessitates two nights of camping. But don't let this prospect put you off - with 'walk-in' tents and camp cots for beds, our efficient ground crew will ensure that the experience adds to the ambience of being in Bhutan. And we shall be right on the spot for some superb birding, to walk through moss-laden forests in our quest for gems such as Scarlet Finch, Fire-tailed Myzornis and the huge Rufous-necked Hornbill. Spring remains part of the dry season, a time when Bhutan's resident birds will be in full song and many migrants will be heading north across the mountains to Tibet and beyond. High-altitude species should still be present at lower elevations where they have wintered, whilst others will be arriving from southern India to breed in the forests. As a bonus, a number of species of rhododendrons, magnolias, primulas and orchids should already be in flower, too. Even those who have visited India before will find that the great majority of the birds will be new to them. Indeed, many species thought of as rare in countries such as Nepal or Thailand are more easily seen in Bhutan. Steve Madge has been visiting the Himalayan region, including Bhutan, regularly for 30 years. Please note that the number of tourist visas for entry into Bhutan are strictly limited, and presently with only two flights a week to Paro, early booking is essential for this terrific holiday. Itinerary Days 1 - 2 We fly from London to Delhi, arriving there early on Day 2, and transfer directly to a nearby hotel. Having rested, we will encounter a fine selection of Indian lowland birds in the environs of our Delhi hotel. Dusky Crag Martins and Little Swifts swing and swirl about the buildings, whilst Indian Robins and even Red-wattled Lapwings perch on garden walls. Trees can be busy with Red-vented Bulbuls, Coppersmith Barbets, Oriental Magpie-Robins, Purple Sunbirds and Oriental White-eyes, not to mention the ubiquitous Rose-ringed Parakeets and Common Mynas. If time permits, we will visit one of a number of good birding locations in the vicinity of Delhi today. Overnight Delhi Day 3 Leaving Delhi, we catch the Druk-air morning flight to Paro, Bhutan's only airport. If the weather is clear, the magic will begin towards the end of our short flight as the haze is pierced by an impressive line of jagged snowy peaks - among them Everest and the Kangchenjunga massif - stretching across the horizon on our descent towards Paro. During the afternoon we will explore part of the lovely Paro valley, scanning the riverside for the wonderful Ibisbill, before continuing to Thimphu. Set at an elevation of 2,400m, this quaint capital, with its narrow, winding streets and fluttering prayer flags, must be unique in having no traffic lights - but the traffic police are very flamboyant! Many of the buildings have beautifully carved facades, yet many shops have no conventional door - access is by ladder to the window! Overnight Thimpu Days 4 - 5 An early start is necessary to reach the Dochu La (La = pass), at 3,215m, in time to admire a breathtaking vista of Himalayan peaks - if it is clear, of course! As we ascend, we leave the dry forest of Western Bhutan behind and enter a lusher environment, home to the striking Gold-billed Blue Magpie, Green Shrike-babbler and a trio of lovely sunbirds: Fire-tailed, Green-tailed and Mrs Gould's. Continuing on through stretches of luxuriant forest, we descend to Punakha (1,280m), Bhutan's former capital. Punakha stands by the mighty Mo Chuu river. Gaudy River Chats and Plumbeous Redstarts fly-catch from boulders, as Blue Whistling Thrushes bound up the bank to disappear into the forest. We have chances of finding two great rarities: Pallas's Fish-eagle and White-bellied Heron. The latter is not only one of the rarest and least-known of all the world's herons, it is also one of the largest. The majority of sightings in recent years have come from about Punakha. The forests further up the Mo Chuu are subtropical and hold a range of beauties, from the tiny Yellow-vented Warbler, Pygmy Wren-babbler and Chestnut-headed Tesia through to Rufous Woodpecker, Red-headed Trogon and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon. Below Punakha we can scan the shingle riverbanks for a late wintering Wallcreeper or the last migrant Bar-headed Geese, pausing here en route to their breeding grounds in Tibet. Two nights Meri Puensum resort, Punakha (formerly Wolokha) Day 6 Leaving the lowlands of the Mo Chuu valley behind, we shall pass by the imposing ramparts of the Wangdi Dzong (dzong = a huge fortress-monastery). The road now starts its ascent through stretches of oak-rhododendron forest and stands of bamboo towards the Pele La. Although mainly a travel day, there will be opportunities for short stops in search of mixed-species feeding flocks - many suddenly upon us as twittering and trilling 'waves', comprising the likes of Blue-winged Minla, Black-throated Tits, Buff-barred and Blyth's Leaf-Warblers, White-browed and Rufous-winged Fulvettas and many others. Scaly and Chestnut-crowned Laughing-thrushes scamper across dank gullies, while the more arboreal Striated Laughing-thrush gleans acorns in the canopy. The ancient trees, festooned with lichen fronds, clumps of ferns and epiphytic orchids, rich foraging places for Rufous Sibias, Brown-throated Treecreeper, and the much rarer Cutia. We also have a chance of finding the sought-after Ward's Trogon today. Crossing the Pele La (3,300 m) into the Black Mountains of central Bhutan, we'll keep our eyes open for any pheasants that might be out in the late afternoon - such as the refulgent Himalayan Monal, or even a family of Blood Pheasants. More likely will be Darjeeling and the exquisite Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, and Rusty-flanked Treecreeper. The conifers provide opportunities to get to grips with various tits: the warbler-like Yellow-browed, jaunty Grey-crested, and the pretty little Black-browed occur here, alongside the attractive Green-backed Tit. We may even be lucky to encounter the scarce Red-headed Bullfinch or very localized Gold-naped Finch. In the late afternoon we descend to Trongsa (2,100m), ancestral home of the Bhutanese royal family, for an overnight stay. Our hotel perches on the slope, with a view down onto the gold-roofed dzong - one of Bhutan's finest buildings. Overnight Puenzhi Lodge, Trongsa Days 7 - 9 From Trongsa we head south to explore lower elevation forests. We will try for the very localized Yellow-rumped Honeyguide above a stream that is home to Little and Slaty-backed Forktails, while the forested gorges as we climb to Shemgang may produce Rusty-fronted Barwing and Yellow-throated Fulvetta, along with Black Eagle, Blue-bearded Bee-eater and smart Golden Babbler. As we pass through moist forest near Shemgang (1,850m), the tiny Speckled Piculet, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Blue-winged and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes, Red-faced Liocichla, Pale Blue Flycatcher and wintering Scarlet Finches are possible. Our destination is near the village of Tingtibi (700m), where our camp for two nights will be ready and waiting for us, close by a rushing river. Immense Rufous-necked, Wreathed and Great Hornbills may be seen, with Bay Woodpecker and Greater and Lesser Yellownapes. Wooded gorges here may reveal Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, Sultan Tit, Orange-bellied Leafbird and the very local Rufous-faced Warbler, while stands of bamboo are home to various parrotbills, Yellow-bellied Warbler and the rare Pale-headed Woodpecker. This is also our one chance to see the endemic Golden Langur; one of the world's rarest and most beautiful monkeys, it is confined to just this tiny wedge of Bhutan. Located at the bottom of a steep valley, our camp comprises not only walk-in sleeping tents, but toilet tents, a shower tent, dining tent and a cooking tent - most of the comforts of home in fact, yet with all of the chores performed for us, and a terrific base from which to explore! Two nights in camp, followed by night of Day 9 back at Puenzhi Lodge, Trongsa Day 10 Though retracing ground today, we shall focus on some different habitats. Early morning may find us in the oak woods admiring a Grey-winged Blackbird, or searching the bamboo for Golden-breasted Fulvetta, while handsome Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrushes and White-collared Blackbirds favour the fir forests. Leisurely coverage of the pass today will allow us more time to look for high elevation specialities, such as Snow Pigeon, Dark-breasted Rosefinch and Black-faced Laughing-thrush, while thickets - perhaps just starting to leaf out now - may be occupied by returning breeders such as Red-flanked Bluetail. Brown-flanked Bush-warblers may be back on territory and, with luck, Rufous-breasted and the stunning Golden Bush-Robins, too. As we cross the Pele La a flock of Collared Grosbeaks may bring us to a halt, or we could find the lovely Black-faced Warbler in forests lower down. Overnight Punakha Day 11 The east side of the Dochu La has some lovely patches of broadleaf woodland, the haunt of Kalij Pheasant and Fire-capped Tit. As we ascend toward the pass, coniferous forests may reveal newly-arrived breeders such as Dark-sided Flycatcher and Large-billed Leaf Warbler. Although afternoons are seldom as productive as mornings, searching likely gullies might bring us the thrush-sized Brown Parrotbill, a pair of Crimson-browed Finches, or a 'crest' of yuhinas - among them Whiskered, Black-chinned, Rufous-vented and the noisy Stripe-throated. A harsh rasping screech may herald the arrival of an inquisitive Nutcracker, and at the top of the pass we might find a party of Plain Mountain-finches foraging near the restaurant. Arriving in Paro this afternoon, we'll take a last look at the scenic dzongs above a river that may hold yet more Ibisbills. Overnight Paro Days 12 - 13 Reluctantly we must leave Bhutan and fly back to Delhi. We transfer to a nearby hotel, where we have the use of day rooms to freshen up before enjoying a farewell dinner this evening. Our flight home departs early on Day 13 with arrival back in London later that same morning. Accommodation in Bhutan is generally clean but simple; more basic in remote areas, where facilities may be shared. Two nights in comfortable, walk-in tents, erected and serviced ahead of our arrival by our very efficient Bhutanese ground team, who perform all the camp 'chores' and ensure that our nights spent under canvas are a real delight. Twins & singles available. Good quality airport hotel in Delhi. Meals: All included, many freshly prepared in the field by our ground team. Walking: We shall be birdwatching at a range of differing elevations, from about 300m to 3,500m. Most ascents are made by bus, with our birding wherever possible by walking downhill on graded paved roads or trails. Warm clothing and sturdy, waterproof hiking boots ESSENTIAL as the ground can often be wet, and sometimes slippery. Be prepared for early starts. Transport is by small but comfortable bus, with our luggage carried in a separate vehicle. Long, slow drives (4-8 hours) on travel days - with stops for birding, of course! Principal Leader: Steve Madge |
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Numbers : Max. 12 clients Price : £ 3,595 Single supp.* : £ 150 Deposit : £ 400 The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of scheduled return flights London-Delhi, and Delhi-Paro, with meals on-board as appropriate; all accommodation, meals, minibus transport, entry fees, tips, airport taxes, bird checklist & services of the leader/s. The price excludes visa costs (c£14 for Bhutan, plus c£30 multiple-entry visa for India), travel insurance, drinks and other personal expenses. This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays. |
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