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Canada - Vancouver Island
Birds and whales

Friday 7 - Tuesday 18 September 2012
(12 days)







Price: £ 4,495
Single supp.: £ 855
Deposit: £ 500
per person

The price is per person and includes scheduled return flights London-Vancouver; all accommodation and meals (including restaurant tips, 15-20% expected in N America), surface transport including ferries and two Tofino boat trips (one for whales, one for bears), reserve entry fees/permits as appropriate, airport taxes, map, bird checklist and services of the leaders.

The price excludes travel insurance, drinks & other personal expenses. Optional pelagic seabirding trip out of Tofino (subject to availability locally and weather permitting); the cost payable locally and price may vary depending upon numbers booked.

This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.

Leader: Chris Charlesworth


Why not join our resident Canadian expert Chris Charlesworth for a trip that combines brilliant birding and wildlife with some wonderful scenery?

photo of a Surf Scoter, a species often seen on our trip to Canada

British Columbia's rugged Pacific coastline is peppered with thousands of islands, largest of which is Vancouver Island. Some 460 kms long and 80 kms wide, much of this incredibly scenic island is cloaked in pristine temperate rainforest. Vast sandy beaches and rocky headlands dominate the coastline, while its rich pelagic waters teem with life just offshore. With seabirds, waders and migrants on the move, plus good chances of American Black Bear and Humpback Whale, and a plethora of west coast specialities, this easy-paced tour is positively crammed with great birding and wildlife.

After a night in Vancouver, we take the ferry across the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver Island. American Black Oystercatchers and Black Turnstones forage along the shoreline, with Surf Scoter and Pelagic Cormorants occurring offshore.

We'll spend our next two nights in the beautiful city of Victoria, its forested parks home to such waifs as Anna's Hummingbird, Bushtit, Golden-crowned Kinglet and the recently 'split' Pacific Wren. September is a fantastic month for waders along North America's Pacific coast and we should see 20 or more species on this tour, including Wandering Tattler and Surfbird, while seawatching from nearby rocky headlands could produce Rhinoceros Auklet and Harlequin Duck.

A four-night stay in the delightful fishing resort of Tofino will allow ample time to explore. We'll visit Cathedral Grove, where tiny Chestnut-backed Chickadees are dwarfed by the Park's monstrous Western Red Cedars and Douglas Firs. Tofino's bays host many coastal birds with Pacific Diver, Western Grebe and Heerman's, Glaucous-winged and California Gulls all likely. Nearby, Pacific Rim is a gem amongst Canadian national parks. Noisy Steller's Jays are common and species seen on our past visits have included Band-tailed Pigeon, Hutton's Vireo and Black-throated Grey and Townsend's Warblers.

A major highlight of our stay at Tofino will be two boat trips into Clayoquot Sound. Brandt's Cormorant, Pigeon Guillemot and Marbled Murrelet are possible, while huge Steller's Sea-lions haul out on to the rocks. We saw the latter very well last time, along with fabulously close Humpback Whales, Sea Otters in the kelp beds and no fewer than eight American Black Bears!

Returning to the mainland, our trip concludes with a couple of days exploring Vancouver's premier migration hotspots of Boundary Bay and Reifel Refuge. Wildfowl and waders abound. Why not join our resident Canadian expert Chris Charlesworth for a trip that combines good accommodation and food with brilliant birding and wildlife - and some truly superb Pacific coastal scenery!

Itinerary
Day 1
We fly from London to Vancouver, British Columbia's largest city, where Chris will be waiting to welcome us. Transfer to our nearby hotel. Depending on flights schedules, we may arrive in time to enjoy a little introductory birding nearby.
Overnight Vancouver

Days 2 - 3
After breakfast this morning we catch the ferry from Tsawwassen, just to the south of Vancouver, and cross the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver Island. The 40km crossing takes under two hours, affording picturesque views of the islands and channels, with quaint little summer homes nestled into the trees of many islands as the ferry nears Victoria. And there's always a chance of spotting the likes of Surf Scoter plus a few seabirds and maybe a Harbour Seal or two from the boat.

Victoria, the provincial capital of British Columbia, will be our base for two nights. Once ashore here we'll begin our birding on Vancouver Island by checking local parks which, at this time of year, can be rewarding for passerines. Vivacious Golden-crowned Kinglets flit through the foliage, and Golden-crowned, Fox Sparrow (of the 'sooty' coastal race), Song Sparrow, Bewick's Wren, Brewer's Blackbird and the peculiar Bushtit are all to be looked for in autumn. Migrant warblers should be moving through, with Townsend's, Yellow-rumped, Wilson's and Orange-crowned among species to watch for, and we might be lucky to come across a few tardy Willow Flycatchers and Pacific-slope Flycatchers. The many attractive gardens in the city are home to the likes of Spotted Towhee, House Finch and Anna's Hummingbird, the adult males a stunning study in green with iridescent pink crowns and throat.

We'll devote part of the following day to further exploration of Victoria's extensive wooded parks, before turning our attention to searching for seabirds and rock-loving shorebirds at headlands close to the city.

Coniferous forests near Esquimalt Lagoon are home to Brown Creepers, Red-breasted Nuthatches and Downy Woodpeckers, while the lagoon itself can be excellent for Belted Kingfisher, Black Oystercatcher and noisy Northwestern Crows. We'll walk the trails at Swan Lake in search of migrants such as Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Yellow Warbler, Cassin's Vireo, Lincoln's and White-crowned Sparrows and Western Tanager. The freshwater lake often holds a few interesting ducks in autumn, such as Ring-necked Duck and the 'hammerhead' Hooded Merganser.

This is a good time of year to look for Rhinoceros Auklet and Ancient Murrelet off the various headlands at Victoria. We'll search for them as well as California Gulls, dapper Harlequin Ducks and Pelagic Cormorants - North America's smallest cormorant, with its tell-tale slender neck and very fine bill. Grey-suited Wandering Tattlers, stocky Surfbirds and energetic Black Turnstones make up an appealing trio of waders that often feed together along rocky shorelines of Canada's Pacific coast at this season.
Two nights on the waterfront in Victoria

Day 4
After breakfast this morning, we'll drive from Victoria on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, north and west to Tofino. Without stops, the journey takes around four hours but we will plan to take most of the day for the drive is an immensely enjoyable one, as we soak up the spectacular West Coast scenery. On a clear day, we should be able to see the ragged peak of Mount Washington (1590m), the highest point on Vancouver Island.

We'll break our journey with a stop at Cathedral Grove, on the shores of Cameron Lake. Cathedral Grove is a 'must' to see some North America's largest trees, the biggest of which is a Douglas Fir that stands an incredible 76m high and has a girth of 9 metres! The old-growth forest can be good for birds - though they're not always easy to find! - and residents to watch for include Band-tailed Pigeon, Red-breasted Sapsucker, the impressive Pileated Woodpecker, Brown Creeper and the recently 'split' Pacific Wren.

This is a truly beautiful region of Canada and, as we descend from the mountains, our first peek at Long Beach merely hints at the miles of pristine sand and huge waves breaking just offshore. We'll check-in to our hotel in a wonderful location at picturesque Tofino, which will be our base for a four-night stay. If time permits, we'll take an evening stroll along the shore in town: Bald Eagles perch on majestic Douglas Fir snags and Glaucous-winged Gulls gather on the docks awaiting the evening arrival of fishermen.
Overnight Tofino

Days 5 - 7
The one-time fishing village of Tofino is now a popular tourist resort. Vast beaches stretching as far as the eye can see hold flocks of foraging waders, including southbound Grey Plovers and Baird's and Western Sandpipers. The rich waters of Clayoquot Sound are home to a good variety of cetaceans. In September, Humpback Whales are often seen playing in the churning waters just offshore. These massive whales breed in southern waters and migrate north to cooler temperate waters for the summer. Grey Whales (which breed near Baja California) spend their summers here too and with luck we may still find a lingering individual. Occasionally, spectacular Orcas (Killer Whales) may also be seen as they navigate the waters of the sound.

During our stay at Tofino, we will spend two days enjoying the varied habitats of nearby Pacific Rim National Park, from its rugged coastlines, sandy beaches and tidal flats through to its ancient forests and bogs. A morning walk along the Rainforest Boardwalk will surely be a highlight here. Cloaked in moss, the huge Western Red Cedars, Douglas Firs and Western Hemlocks - some with trunks nearly ten feet across - are a marvel to see. Steller's Jays and Golden-crowned Kinglets are common residents in the park, and the dusky plumage of both the Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers that occur here will come as something of a surprise to birders who have previously only seen these very 'black and white' species in eastern North America.

We'll meander along the boardwalk, passing through a bog where Dark-eyed Juncos fidget amongst the shrubbery on the spongy ground. We'll also keep an eye open for possible migrants such as the kinglet-like Hutton's Vireo and attractively-marked Black-throated Grey Warbler. If we are especially fortunate, we may come across the solitary Sooty Grouse quietly going about its business amongst the dense firs, or perhaps even chance upon an American Black Bear crossing the road.

A number of pristine beaches lie within the park. We will visit Long Beach and Wickaninnish Beach, both of which can be good for shorebirds, with the likes of Pacific and Red-throated Divers, Red-necked and Slavonian Grebes, and White-winged and Surf Scoters all possible offshore. Ospreys are also heading south now and this unspoilt area frequently tempts migrants to linger on into September.

During our stay at Tofino we plan to take two exciting boat trips (weather permitting), one in search of whales and inshore seabirds, the other to look for bears! Tree-clad islands with sandy beaches and calm glassy waters characterize Clayoquot Sound, where alcids such as Common and Pigeon Guillemots, Marbled Murrelet, and Cassin's and Rhinoceros Auklets may be found. Pelagic, Double-crested and Brandt's Cormorants are common here, sea lions loaf on the rocks and North American River Otters can sometimes be seen, frolicking near creek mouths where salmon spawn. With luck, we'll also spot one or two endearing Sea Otters floating amongst the kelp, as we did last time.

Heading out to some remote beaches, our last group was treated to sightings of no fewer than eight American Black Bears, including a mother and her two cubs within just forty feet of our boat, turning over rocks along the shoreline in their quest for crabs and stranded fish. Also seen on this boat trip were several majestic Bald Eagles, while our whale-watching boat trip produced some extraordinarily close encounters with several magnificent Humpback Whales, as well as Harbour Porpoises, Steller's Sea Lions and a couple of California Sea Lions, too!

[During our stay at Tofino, some participants may like to enquire locally about the possibility of joining one of the pelagic boat trips that operate from time to time out of Tofino, weather permitting. These can venture far enough offshore to find seabirds such as Black-footed Albatross, Pink-footed Shearwater and Sabine's Gull. However, as weather conditions are not always suitable and the excursions are not always operating, please note that the cost of such trips is not included within our tour price.]
Three nights Tofino

Day 8
After some final birding around about Tofino this morning, we make the scenic drive back across the island to Nanaimo, a bustling coastal community on the more sheltered eastern shore of Vancouver Island. Along the way, we may spot a few Turkey Vultures.

At Nanaimo we can check the local marshes for lingering Common Yellowthroats, chattering Marsh Wrens and king-size Great Blue Herons. Nearby, Qualicum Beach is an important staging area for migrant waterfowl and gulls. We have seen adult Thayer's Gull here (an early arrival from its Arctic breeding grounds), and other species to be looked for around Nanaimo include Bald Eagle, Cooper's and Red-tailed Hawks, Merlin, Band-tailed Pigeon, Pileated Woodpecker, American Dipper, Bushtit, Red-breasted Nuthatch and the ubiquitous North-western Crow.
Overnight Nanaimo

Days 9 - 10
After a further opportunity to look around the Nanaimo area this morning, we board the ferry in town and cross back over to Vancouver, where we'll enjoy a further two nights on the Canadian mainland.

Vancouver is surely one of the world's most beautiful cities. Set beside the lapping Pacific Ocean, its modern high-rise buildings are etched against a backdrop of spectacular jagged peaks of the Coastal Mountain range, making a wonderful setting to conclude our tour.

Just thirty minutes south of Vancouver city centre, Boundary Bay and the Fraser River complex form one of the most important bird areas in Canada. A vital staging post for millions of migrating birds that follow the Pacific Flyway, this area can be hard to beat for shorebirds in autumn. Tens of thousands of migratory waders - including impressive gatherings of Western Sandpipers and Dunlin, along with lesser numbers of Least and Pectoral Sandpipers, Grey Plover, American Golden Plover, Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, Knot, and Long-billed and Short-billed Dowitchers - throng the tidal flats and saltings. Birds of prey are inevitably drawn by the flocks of shorebirds and species to watch for include Peregrine, Northern Harrier and Red-tailed Hawk. And this is perhaps the best place in North America (outside of Alaska) to find Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, a rare but now annual visitor from its Siberian breeding grounds; indeed, our September 2007 group found two here, along with a single Buff-breasted Sandpiper and a vagrant Ruff!
Two nights Vancouver

Days 11 - 12
Our flight back to London departs Vancouver on the evening of day 11, leaving us free to enjoy much of the day birding at the bird-rich George C. Reifel Refuge, on nearby Westham Island.

Comprising nearly 300 hectares (850 acres) of managed wetlands, natural marshes and dykes in the heart of the Fraser River delta, Reifel's observation tower and several hides (or 'blinds' as they call them here, of course) afford excellent views over the shallow ponds and intertidal marshes. Canada Geese and stately Sandhill Cranes are usually present in small numbers throughout the year (though the latter are not always easy to find), and the freshwater pools can be outstanding for shorebirds and migratory waterfowl. Here we have a final chance to sift through parties of sandpipers, dowitchers and yellowlegs for some of the more uncommon species such as Baird's and Stilt Sandpipers.

A handful of Black-crowned Night Herons remain to spend the winter at Reifel, while among the reserve's many small birds, Black-capped Chickadees can be extremely tame. Other possible species to watch for include Rufous Hummingbird, Tree Swallow, American Robin, Marsh and Bewick's Wrens, Bushtit and the garrulous Red-winged Blackbird. With luck, the park staff might be able to point us in the direction of a roosting Great Horned Owl, as our trip draws to a close.

Our birding over, we swing north to Vancouver airport and catch our overnight flight home. Arrival back in London on Day 12, where our tour concludes.

Special note: September is high season on Vancouver Island, when hotel space is at a premium. Early booking is recommended to be certain of space at the best hotels on Vancouver Island, which fill up fast!

Accommodation: We use comfortable, good to excellent North American-style hotels and motels, with all rooms en suite.

Meals: All included in the price. Food is good, varied and plentiful. As is the norm in North America, some meals may be taken at local restaurants as not all hotels have in-house restaurant facilities. Some lunches may be picnics.

Walking: Easy. Short walks at a relaxed pace, mainly over well-marked trails and boardwalks.

Weather: Changeable. Western Canada, including southern British Columbia, is a mountainous region. Coastal areas enjoy a maritime climate with warm, sunny summers and relatively mild but wet winters. In September, expect temperatures at Vancouver Island to be in the range of 17-23C, cooler on the water and inland in the mountains. Some rainfall is to be expected at this season.

Ground Transport: By air-conditioned minibus or people-carrier.

Boat Trips: The tour includes two 2-hour ferry crossings, plus two boat trips (weather permitting) into Clayoquot Sound at Tofino in search of seabirds inshore, whales, Sea Otters, sea-lions and American Black Bears.

[As mentioned above, for seabird enthusiasts, an optional pelagic boat trip is sometimes available locally at Tofino, at extra cost (not included in our tour price) and subject to availability and weather permitting, for those that want. Please note that this pelagic trip is not always available and must be booked and paid for locally on the day. There can be considerable ocean swell offshore, the boats can be small and may remain offshore for 6-8 hours so this trip may not be suitable for all. We recommend interested parties check out the boat on offer before booking this trip. Participants opting to take the pelagic trip will need to forgo the organised group activity on that particular day. No refund can be given for non-participation in the group activity.]

Numbers: Max. 8 clients


The Travelling Naturalist, PO Box 3141, Dorchester, Dorset, DT1 2XD, United Kingdom

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