Heart of India
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Prices:
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of Return scheduled flights London-Delhi; domestic flight Delhi-Jabalpur; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by coach and train, with 4WD vehicle and/or elephant-back in the National Parks (as described above); entrance fees at the national parks and monuments; sightseeing excursions as per itinerary; porterage; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.
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Join us for a 'Tiger Special' at the heart of India, visiting Kanha, the setting for Kipling's classic, The Jungle Book, and Bandhavgarh National Parks for the best chances of seeing Tiger, but with Leopard, Sloth Bear, Gaur and Swamp Deer also possible. We combine this with an optional extension to Chambal River and the Taj Mahal. |
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For the wildlife enthusiast, few parts of the great Indian subcontinent can rival the remote national parks of Bandhavgarh and Kanha. Situated in Madyha Pradesh, together they enclose some 2000 sq kms of lush grassland and forest at the very heart of India. The setting for Kipling's classic The Jungle Book, this region also has a relatively low human population. All are factors which are important in maintaining the healthiest population of that most magnificent of all India's wild creatures - the Tiger!
Currently, there is perhaps nowhere better than the fabulous setting of Bandhavgarh to see this, the world's ultimate feline predator. With the aid of elephants, it is sometimes possible to get close enough to seemingly smell their breath - truly a spine-tingling moment in one's life! During our searches we should also encounter a fine variety of other mammals, including herds of lovely Chital. With luck, we might even chance upon a pack of Dhole, the rare Indian Wild Dog. Birds will be conspicuous too, forming mixed roving parties in the woodlands at this time of year, when India's resident species are joined by winter visitors from both Siberian and Himalayan forests. After starting our birdwatching at Sultanpur near Delhi, we travel south to one of India's largest national parks: Kanha. In March, as water becomes scarcer, mammals become increasingly drawn to the park's wetlands. It's at Kanha that we might also come across a group of massive Gaur grazing silently at the forest's edge. Following four-nights at Kanha, we transfer to Bandhavgarh National Park. Set amid the rocky hills of the Vindhya range, Bandhavgarh is barely one-third the size of Kanha - but is simply the most reliable place in all India to regularly see and experience close encounters with Tiger! The sought-after Mottled Wood Owl, Orange-headed Thrush and beautiful Tickell's Blue Flycatcher feature among the park's many avian attractions. An exciting optional extension then takes us to the Chambal River, for some terrific wetland birding and a day sightseeing at Agra. Join us for a superb 'Birds & Tigers' tour, as we combine the thrill of India's top two Tiger reserves with the wonderful Chambal Sanctuary and the marble magnificence of the ethereal Taj Mahal. Itinerary Please note: Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the most remote of India's national parks and getting to them involves quite a journey, be it by air, road and/or rail. By using flights in and out of Jabalpur, our 2011 tour is designed to cut the travel time and inconvenience to the minimum possible. But arguably the best chances of seeing Tiger anywhere in India, as well as an excellent range of birds and other mammals, make it well worth the effort! On his path-finding visit for us in April 2007, tour guide Brian Small enjoyed no fewer than fourteen encounters with Tiger, while our subsequent groups in November 2007, November 2008 and March 2010 each enjoyed superb sightings - some of them extremely close! Days 1 - 2 We fly from London to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi early on the morning of day two, where we shall be welcomed by our local guide and transfer directly to our hotel (conveniently located within a few kilometres of the airport), to rest a while. After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we will pay a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. (Participants preferring to spend the day at leisure, perhaps relaxing at the hotel or sightseeing in Delhi, are most welcome to do so.) As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the country's bustling capital, we shall experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, stately Common and Sarus Cranes, Indian Pond Herons, Purple Swamphens, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Little Cormorant and the handsome Black-necked Stork are among wetland species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including Large Grey Babbler, smart Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyth's Reed Warblers and restless Hume's Leaf and Greenish Warblers. After enjoying most of the day at Sultanpur, we return to our Delhi hotel. We will plan to retire early to bed this evening in readiness for tomorrow morning's flight into 'Tiger country'. Overnight Uppal's Orchid Hotel, Delhi Days 3 - 6 Our flight to Jabalpur departs Delhi in the morning, and we should arrive at Jabalpur in time for lunch. The southwards journey from Jabalpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take several hours, allowing for time to enjoy the birds in a variety of habitats - including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefier Bronze-winged Jacanas. Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinent's largest and most remote national parks. Depending on the number of stops, we should arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge late this afternoon, allowing time to settle into our rooms and perhaps a short walk in the gardens before it gets dark. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents (with air-conditioning and private facilities), set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve. Kanha was the setting for Kipling's classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered 'hardground' Swamp Deer (Barasingha), but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the park's rarer and less frequently seen mammals, too; exciting possibilities include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha). As one would expect, India's mammals are most active early and late in the day so we'll make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinent's very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - though sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed! To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the day's wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or enjoy short birding walks around the grounds, before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back. As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and the many other species to watch for include Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets. In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see. As the day begins to warm we should also be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted in India over the past decade and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures. Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdon's Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling. Four nights Tuli Tiger Resort, Kanha National Park Day 7 After an early breakfast this morning, we depart north to our next destination, Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms in all), neither are the roads and the journey there will probably take around eight hours, allowing for stops on the way. We shall keep a keen eye open for birds as we go, and will break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch before arriving late this afternoon at the comfortable Kings Lodge, at the start of a three-night stay. Set in a twelve acre site and within ten minutes drive of the park entrance at Bandhavgarh, Kings Lodge has been built to blend with the surrounding landscape of sal forested hills and operates eco-sensitive policies, which include training local villagers to work as camp staff and naturalist guides. The lodge's cottage rooms are well appointed, with air-conditioning and modern en suite bathrooms. Overnight Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh Days 8 - 9 Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarh's hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with small lakes, marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tiger anywhere in India. The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and much more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and small mammals we should see include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel. Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife so we'll make daily excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarh's Tigers are well known to the park's staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. 'Driven' by a mahout, each elephant carries up to four people and we will hope to switch to elephant in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters! Bandhavgarh's varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Stork-billed Kingfisher. We have further chances of a broad range of central Indian species too - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Indian Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonelli's Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several 'Indian' species that have recently been 'split', such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch. No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without a visit to the park's impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2625ft), and which tower 300m (1000ft) above the surrounding countryside. It is no longer possible to walk up to the fort - too many Tiger encounters have worried the park authorities, so we will travel by Jeep to the top of the escarpment. The track is steep and bumpy but well worth the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. Views from the top of the escarpment, where we'll enjoy a packed lunch, are breathtaking! Two nights Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh Day 10 Taking a packed breakfast, we leave Bandhavgarh this morning and drive back to Jabalpur in time to catch the lunchtime flight to Delhi. Afternoon arrival in the capital and transfer to the nearby Uppal's Orchid Hotel, where we shall enjoy a late lunch and the remainder of the afternoon at leisure. After dinner at the hotel this evening, participants taking the tour extension retire to bed, while those not taking the extension make a late evening transfer to Delhi airport and check-in for their return flight to London. Day 11 For those going home, the flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 11, with arrival back in London later the same day. CHAMBAL RIVER & TAJ EXTENSION Days 11 - 12 After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we transfer to the railway station and catch the express south to Agra. Early afternoon arrival in Agra, where our bus will meet us for the onward transfer (about two hours) to the Chambal Safari Lodge, which lies adjacent to the National Chambal Sanctuary. The National Chambal Sanctuary protects a pristine stretch of the Chambal River. Its a rich and varied ecosystem, a habitat that is sadly becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We should arrive in time to enjoy some initial birding here this afternoon. The attractive mix of farmland and dry forest that surrounds our lodge is alive with birds and home to many species typical of northern India. During the afternoon we may watch a Brown Hawk Owl peering down at us from its daytime roost, or come across an Indian Scops Owls looking for all the world like a broken branch. The cultivated fields of mustard and potatoes hold numerous wintering flocks of migratory House Sparrows, Red-headed Buntings, Rose-coloured Starlings and Tree Pipits. Nearby, the scrubby surroundings to our lodge may reveal Shikra, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Long-billed Pipit, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Indian Roller, Wire-tailed Swallow, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more. Next morning, we will take boat ride along the Chambal, perhaps the cleanest of all India's rivers, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should see this wonderful species here, marvelling at their grace and elegance as they cruise past our boat. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Great Thick-knees and Bar-headed Geese are among other signature species to look forward to at Chambal. Along the river we may encounter a long list of other waterbirds, from Little and Great Cormorants to Lesser Whistling-duck and Ruddy Shelduck. We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial (a large fish-eating crocodile with an extraordinary snout), and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with many turtles and possibly River Otters. If we are lucky, we may spot the endangered Ganges River Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of Northern India's rivers. In the afternoon, we have an opportunity to a visit to the Sarus Crane Conservation Reserve, which commences around 30 kms from Chambal Safari Lodge, and extends to about 100 kms. It is a widespread wetland area, interspersed by cultivated fields, where large numbers of the Sarus Cranes breed alongside an impressive variety of other wetland and open country species. Although not a protected area, since 1999 the Supreme Court of India, recognizing its importance as a habitat has designated the area a reserve with restrictions on development. In the evening, we return to Chambal. Two nights Chambal Safari Lodge Day 13 We spend a further morning birding at Chambal. Along the river banks we can search for the pallid Sand Lark amidst flocks of Short-toed Larks, and watch for wintering Desert and Variable Wheatears. Waders might include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints, and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Martins wheel overhead as we check for Osprey and Long-legged Buzzard, and possibly even Bonelli's Eagles attending their nest. After a final lunch at the lodge, we board our bus and make the journey back to Agra, where we check into our comfortable hotel for dinner and an overnight stay. Overnight Gateway Hotel, Agra Day 14 First thing this morning we pay a sightseeing visit to the incomparable Taj Mahal, one of the true wonders of the man-made world. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, one's first sight of this magnificent building - an extravagant, jewel-encrusted mausoleum hewn from the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring! Even here there are birds to distract us: Black Kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. Whilst below, on the mighty Yamuna river, River Lapwings and other waders are often present. Returning to our hotel for breakfast, we then take a guided tour of Agra's massive Red Fort. From the turreted upper windows here, we shall be able to look back along the Yamuna River to enjoy one last view of the majestic Taj Mahal. Our sightseeing over, and after lunch at a local restaurant, we transfer to the railway station and catch the Chattisgargh Express back to Delhi. Dinner tonight will be at a hotel restaurant convenient for the airport, after which we make a late evening transfer to the airport and check-in for our return flight to London. Day 15 Our flight home departs early on the morning of Day 15, with arrival back in London later the same day. Accommodation: We stay at the better quality tourist hotels in Delhi and Agra, and use lodges at the quality end of the available accommodation at Kanha and Bandhavgargh Tiger Reserves, where lodgings are comfortable but more simple and rustic. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). With twelve comfortable but simple en suite rooms, Chambal Safari Lodge where we stay on the tour extension, is an oasis of calm and tranquility nestling on a 35 acre heritage estate. Meals: All included in the price. Most meals are taken at the hotels and lodges with picnics on travelling days. As one would expect, food is generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little prior warning. Walking: Easy. Please note: owing to the presence of Tiger and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas the majority of bird and mammal-watching within India's Tiger reserves must be done by jeep - or elephant back! - so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists. There are no such restrictions on the Chambal River extension, where we are free to explore on foot. Weather: From November-March the weather in this part of India is typically fine and sunny, with temperatures averaging 15-25oC. However note that nights can be very cold (frost is possible!), and it is likely to feel chilly - really cold during early morning game drives - requiring warm clothing, hat, gloves and scarf! - until the sun gets up and quickly starts to warm things up. The need for warm clothing (possibly even thermal underwear!) cannot be over-stated; it is better to have too many warm clothes than feel cold! It may be overcast at times but rainfall is scarce and any showers are unlikely to be prolonged. Flights: We use the scheduled services of British Airways, Emirates or similar from London to Delhi. Domestic return flights within India (Delhi-Jabalpur-Delhi) are included within our tour price. Ground Transport: By road (bus or small coach) and rail as per the detailed itinerary, with four-wheel-drive vehicles in the National Parks. In the event of successful Tiger tracking by the mahouts, some excursions within the parks may also be made by elephant, as opportunity arises and subject to availability. Our tour cost includes provision for a maximum of two elephant rides per person. It may be possible for those that wish to arrange and pay for an additional elephant ride/s locally (again, subject to availability). Please note that the local 'jeeps' are designated routes by the park authorities (i.e. we have no say in this) and it may be that the different vehicles go their own separate ways. However, each vehicle carries an experienced guide to help with the animal and bird identification, and our guides will endeavour to distribute themselves equally between all participants during our stay. Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-3 hours. Photos: Good-excellent photographic opportunities, including birds, mammals and cultural. Leaders: Brian Small & local guides Numbers: Max. 14 clients |
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