Heart of India
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Prices:
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of Return scheduled flights London-Delhi; domestic flight Delhi-Jabalpur; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by coach and train, with 4WD vehicle and/or elephant-back in the National Parks (as described above); entrance fees at the national parks and monuments; sightseeing excursions as per itinerary; porterage; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.
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For the wildlife enthusiast, few parts of the great Indian subcontinent can rival the remote national parks of Bandhavgarh and Kanha. Situated in Madyha Pradesh, together they enclose some 2000 sq kms of lush grassland and forest at the very heart of India. The setting for Kipling's classic The Jungle Book, this region also has a relatively low human population. All are factors which are important in maintaining the healthiest population of that most magnificent of all India's wild creatures - the Tiger!
Currently, there is perhaps nowhere better than the fabulous setting of Bandhavgarh to see this, the world's ultimate feline predator. With the aid of elephants, it is sometimes possible to get close enough to seemingly smell their breath - truly a spine-tingling moment in one's life! During our searches we should also encounter a fine variety of other mammals, including herds of the lovely Chital. With luck, we might even chance upon a pack of Dhole, the rare Indian Wild Dog. Birds will be conspicuous too, forming mixed roving parties in the woodlands at this time of year when India's many resident species are joined by winter visitors from both Siberian and Himalayan forests. Lakes and watercourses should be attractive to an equally exciting range of wetland birds following the end of the monsoon.
After starting our birdwatching at Sultanpur near Delhi, we travel south to one of India's largest national parks: Kanha. In post-monsoon November there should be plenty of water about, with fresh growth of grasses for the deer and antelope - and good hunting for Tigers! In March, as water becomes scarcer, the mammals become increasingly drawn to the park's wetlands. It's at Kanha that we might also come across a group of massive Gaur grazing silently at the forest's edge.
Following four-nights at Kanha, we transfer to Bandhavgarh National Park. Set amid the rocky hills of the Vindhya range, Bandhavgarh is barely one-third the size of Kanha - but is simply the most reliable place in all India to regularly see and experience close encounters with Tiger! The sought-after Mottled Wood Owl, Orange-headed Thrush and beautiful Tickell's Blue Flycatcher feature among the park's many avian attractions.
As a fitting finale, our tour concludes with a sightseeing visit to Agra. Join us for a superb 'Birds & Tigers' tour, as we combine the thrill of exploring India's top two reserves for Tiger with the marble splendour of the ethereal Taj Mahal.
Itinerary
Please note: Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the most remote of India's national parks and getting to them involves quite a journey, be it by air, road and/or rail. But arguably the best chances of seeing Tiger anywhere in India, as well as an excellent range of birds and other mammals, make it well worth the effort! On his path-finding visit for us in April 2007, tour guide Brian Small enjoyed no fewer than fourteen encounters with Tiger, while our groups in November 2007 and November 2008 each enjoyed at least 13 sightings - some of them extremely close! Please note that the below itinerary is based on flight schedules operating on our last visit and so the itinerary for Days 1-3 may change according to flights.
Days 1 - 2
We fly from London to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi early on the morning of day two, where we shall be welcomed by our local guide and transfer directly to our conveniently-located hotel, the Ashok Country Resort (just 4 kms from the airport), to rest a while.
After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we will pay a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. (This excursion is optional and anyone who prefers to spend the day at leisure, perhaps relaxing at the hotel or sightseeing in Delhi, is most welcome to do so.) As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the country's bustling capital, we'll experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead.
If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, stately Common and Sarus Cranes, Indian Pond Herons, Purple Swamphens, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Little Cormorant and the handsome Black-necked Stork are among wetland species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including Large Grey Babbler, smart Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyth's Reed Warblers and restless Hume's Leaf and Greenish Warblers.
After enjoying most of the day at Sultanpur, we return to our Delhi airport hotel. We'll plan to turn in early this evening in readiness for tomorrow's early morning flight into 'Tiger country'.
Overnight Delhi
Days 3 - 6
Our flight to Jabalpur departs Delhi at around 07.00am, so we must make an early start today. The southwards journey from Jabalpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take several hours, allowing for time to enjoy the birds in a variety of habitats - including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefier Bronze-winged Jacanas.
Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinent's largest and most remote national parks. We should arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge this afternoon, allowing time to settle into our rooms and a walk in the gardens before it gets dark. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents (all with air-conditioning and private facilities), set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve.
Kanha was the setting for Kipling's classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered 'hardground' Swamp Deer (Barasingha), but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the park's rarer and less frequently seen mammals, too; possibilities include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha).
As one would expect, India's mammals are most active early and late in the day so we'll make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinent's very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - though sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed!
To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the day's wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or enjoy short birding walks around the grounds, before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back.
As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and the many other species to watch for include Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets.
In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see.
As the day begins to warm we should also be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted in India over the past decade and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures.
Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdon's Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling.
Four nights Kanha National Park
Day 7
After an early breakfast this morning, we'll depart north to our next destination, Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms in all), neither are the roads and the journey there will probably take around eight hours, allowing for stops on the way. We'll keep a keen eye open for birds as we go, and will break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch or a visit to Fossil Park, before arriving late this afternoon at the Tiger Trails Resort, Bandhavgarh, at the start of a three-night stay.
Overnight Bandhavgarh
Days 8 - 9
Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarh's hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with small lakes and marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tiger anywhere in India.
The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and much more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and small mammals we should see include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel.
Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife so we'll make daily excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarh's Tigers are well known to the park's staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. 'Driven' by a mahout, each elephant carries up to four people and we will hope to switch to elephant in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters!
Bandhavgarh's varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Stork-billed Kingfisher. We have further chances of a broad range of central Indian species too - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Indian Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonelli's Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several 'Indian' species that have recently been 'split', such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch.
No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without a visit to the park's impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2625ft), and which tower 300m (1000ft) above the surrounding countryside. It is no longer possible to walk up to the fort - too many Tiger encounters have worried the park authorities, so we will travel by Jeep to the top of the escarpment. The track is steep and bumpy but well worth the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. Views from the top of the escarpment, where we'll enjoy a packed lunch, are breathtaking!
Two nights Bandhavgarh
Day 10
We'll spend a final day at Bandhavgarh today, taking morning and afternoon wildlife drives in the Park, plus a chance to visit the local craft shop, before enjoying dinner and making the one-hour transfer to the railway station at Umaria. Here we'll board the overnight air-conditioned sleeping car express, north to Agra. Don't expect luxury but India's railway system is efficient, punctual and impressive, and travelling by train is by far the quickest and most comfortable way to journey in a region where roads are generally very poor and the nearest main airport is often six or more hours drive away.
Overnight on train, travelling to Agra
Day 11
We should arrive at Agra mid-morning. If we are on time, we have the use of a number of day rooms at a hotel here, to freshen-up and change prior to taking lunch at the hotel and making a sightseeing visit to the incomparable Taj Mahal - one of the true wonders of the man-made world.
Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of the magnificent Taj - an extravagant, jewel-encrusted mausoleum constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring. Even here there are birds to distract us: kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. Whilst below, on the mighty Yamuna river, River Lapwings and other waders are often present. To the north lies the massive Red Fort at Agra; if time permits, here, from the turreted upper windows, we'll be able to enjoy one last view of the majestic Taj Mahal.
Our sightseeing over, we transfer to the railway station and board the Shatabdi Express. Dinner will be served on board the train as we travel back to Delhi. On arrival in the capital, we head directly to the international airport and check-in for our return flight to London.
Day 12
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 12, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We use a good, medium-grade tourist hotel in Delhi, with comfortable but simple lodges elsewhere. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). One night is spent on board a sleeping car train, travelling from Umaria-Agra in 2nd class air-conditioned accommodation (though simple this is the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each car is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note that we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which are assigned solely by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together, if possible.
Meals: All included in the price. Most meals are taken at the hotels and lodges with picnics on travelling days. As one would expect, food is generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little warning.
Walking : Easy. Please note: owing to the presence of Tiger and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas the majority of bird and mammal-watching within India's National Parks must be done by jeep - or elephant back! - so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients
Currently, there is perhaps nowhere better than the fabulous setting of Bandhavgarh to see this, the world's ultimate feline predator. With the aid of elephants, it is sometimes possible to get close enough to seemingly smell their breath - truly a spine-tingling moment in one's life! During our searches we should also encounter a fine variety of other mammals, including herds of the lovely Chital. With luck, we might even chance upon a pack of Dhole, the rare Indian Wild Dog. Birds will be conspicuous too, forming mixed roving parties in the woodlands at this time of year when India's many resident species are joined by winter visitors from both Siberian and Himalayan forests. Lakes and watercourses should be attractive to an equally exciting range of wetland birds following the end of the monsoon.
After starting our birdwatching at Sultanpur near Delhi, we travel south to one of India's largest national parks: Kanha. In post-monsoon November there should be plenty of water about, with fresh growth of grasses for the deer and antelope - and good hunting for Tigers! In March, as water becomes scarcer, the mammals become increasingly drawn to the park's wetlands. It's at Kanha that we might also come across a group of massive Gaur grazing silently at the forest's edge.
Following four-nights at Kanha, we transfer to Bandhavgarh National Park. Set amid the rocky hills of the Vindhya range, Bandhavgarh is barely one-third the size of Kanha - but is simply the most reliable place in all India to regularly see and experience close encounters with Tiger! The sought-after Mottled Wood Owl, Orange-headed Thrush and beautiful Tickell's Blue Flycatcher feature among the park's many avian attractions.
As a fitting finale, our tour concludes with a sightseeing visit to Agra. Join us for a superb 'Birds & Tigers' tour, as we combine the thrill of exploring India's top two reserves for Tiger with the marble splendour of the ethereal Taj Mahal.
Itinerary
Please note: Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the most remote of India's national parks and getting to them involves quite a journey, be it by air, road and/or rail. But arguably the best chances of seeing Tiger anywhere in India, as well as an excellent range of birds and other mammals, make it well worth the effort! On his path-finding visit for us in April 2007, tour guide Brian Small enjoyed no fewer than fourteen encounters with Tiger, while our groups in November 2007 and November 2008 each enjoyed at least 13 sightings - some of them extremely close! Please note that the below itinerary is based on flight schedules operating on our last visit and so the itinerary for Days 1-3 may change according to flights.
Days 1 - 2
We fly from London to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi early on the morning of day two, where we shall be welcomed by our local guide and transfer directly to our conveniently-located hotel, the Ashok Country Resort (just 4 kms from the airport), to rest a while.
After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we will pay a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. (This excursion is optional and anyone who prefers to spend the day at leisure, perhaps relaxing at the hotel or sightseeing in Delhi, is most welcome to do so.) As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the country's bustling capital, we'll experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead.
If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, stately Common and Sarus Cranes, Indian Pond Herons, Purple Swamphens, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Little Cormorant and the handsome Black-necked Stork are among wetland species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including Large Grey Babbler, smart Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyth's Reed Warblers and restless Hume's Leaf and Greenish Warblers.
After enjoying most of the day at Sultanpur, we return to our Delhi airport hotel. We'll plan to turn in early this evening in readiness for tomorrow's early morning flight into 'Tiger country'.
Overnight Delhi
Days 3 - 6
Our flight to Jabalpur departs Delhi at around 07.00am, so we must make an early start today. The southwards journey from Jabalpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take several hours, allowing for time to enjoy the birds in a variety of habitats - including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefier Bronze-winged Jacanas.
Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinent's largest and most remote national parks. We should arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge this afternoon, allowing time to settle into our rooms and a walk in the gardens before it gets dark. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents (all with air-conditioning and private facilities), set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve.
Kanha was the setting for Kipling's classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered 'hardground' Swamp Deer (Barasingha), but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the park's rarer and less frequently seen mammals, too; possibilities include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha).
As one would expect, India's mammals are most active early and late in the day so we'll make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinent's very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - though sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed!
To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the day's wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or enjoy short birding walks around the grounds, before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back.
As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and the many other species to watch for include Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets.
In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see.
As the day begins to warm we should also be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted in India over the past decade and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures.
Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdon's Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling.
Four nights Kanha National Park
Day 7
After an early breakfast this morning, we'll depart north to our next destination, Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms in all), neither are the roads and the journey there will probably take around eight hours, allowing for stops on the way. We'll keep a keen eye open for birds as we go, and will break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch or a visit to Fossil Park, before arriving late this afternoon at the Tiger Trails Resort, Bandhavgarh, at the start of a three-night stay.
Overnight Bandhavgarh
Days 8 - 9
Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarh's hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with small lakes and marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tiger anywhere in India.
The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and much more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and small mammals we should see include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel.
Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife so we'll make daily excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarh's Tigers are well known to the park's staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. 'Driven' by a mahout, each elephant carries up to four people and we will hope to switch to elephant in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters!
Bandhavgarh's varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Stork-billed Kingfisher. We have further chances of a broad range of central Indian species too - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Indian Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonelli's Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several 'Indian' species that have recently been 'split', such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch.
No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without a visit to the park's impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2625ft), and which tower 300m (1000ft) above the surrounding countryside. It is no longer possible to walk up to the fort - too many Tiger encounters have worried the park authorities, so we will travel by Jeep to the top of the escarpment. The track is steep and bumpy but well worth the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. Views from the top of the escarpment, where we'll enjoy a packed lunch, are breathtaking!
Two nights Bandhavgarh
Day 10
We'll spend a final day at Bandhavgarh today, taking morning and afternoon wildlife drives in the Park, plus a chance to visit the local craft shop, before enjoying dinner and making the one-hour transfer to the railway station at Umaria. Here we'll board the overnight air-conditioned sleeping car express, north to Agra. Don't expect luxury but India's railway system is efficient, punctual and impressive, and travelling by train is by far the quickest and most comfortable way to journey in a region where roads are generally very poor and the nearest main airport is often six or more hours drive away.
Overnight on train, travelling to Agra
Day 11
We should arrive at Agra mid-morning. If we are on time, we have the use of a number of day rooms at a hotel here, to freshen-up and change prior to taking lunch at the hotel and making a sightseeing visit to the incomparable Taj Mahal - one of the true wonders of the man-made world.
Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the sight of the magnificent Taj - an extravagant, jewel-encrusted mausoleum constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring. Even here there are birds to distract us: kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. Whilst below, on the mighty Yamuna river, River Lapwings and other waders are often present. To the north lies the massive Red Fort at Agra; if time permits, here, from the turreted upper windows, we'll be able to enjoy one last view of the majestic Taj Mahal.
Our sightseeing over, we transfer to the railway station and board the Shatabdi Express. Dinner will be served on board the train as we travel back to Delhi. On arrival in the capital, we head directly to the international airport and check-in for our return flight to London.
Day 12
Our British Airways flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 12, with arrival back in London later that same morning.
Accommodation: We use a good, medium-grade tourist hotel in Delhi, with comfortable but simple lodges elsewhere. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). One night is spent on board a sleeping car train, travelling from Umaria-Agra in 2nd class air-conditioned accommodation (though simple this is the highest class available on this route), with berths arranged in two tiers. Each car is equipped with western and eastern-style WCs. An attendant travels with the carriage and provides clean linen. Please note that we have no control over the allocation of berths on the train, which are assigned solely by Indian Railways, but our guides will do their best to ensure everyone is kept together, if possible.
Meals: All included in the price. Most meals are taken at the hotels and lodges with picnics on travelling days. As one would expect, food is generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little warning.
Walking : Easy. Please note: owing to the presence of Tiger and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas the majority of bird and mammal-watching within India's National Parks must be done by jeep - or elephant back! - so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists.
Numbers: Max. 14 clients
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