Heart of India
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Prices:
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return scheduled flights London-Delhi; domestic return flight Delhi-Jabalpur-Delhi; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by coach and train, with 4WD vehicle and/or elephant-back in the National Parks (as outlined in the itinerary); entrance fees at the national parks and monuments; sightseeing excursions as per itinerary; porterage; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.
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Our 'Heart of India' tour combines the thrill of exploring India's top reserves for Tiger with an optional extension to legendary Bharatpur and the marble splendour of the Taj Mahal. Join us for a birds and mammals special that's really hard to beat! |
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For the wildlife enthusiast, few parts of the great Indian subcontinent can rival the remote national parks of Kanha and Bandhavgarh. Situated in Madyha Pradesh, together they enclose some 2000 sq kms of lush grassland and forest at the very heart of India. The setting for Kipling's classic The Jungle Book, this region also has a relatively low human population. All are factors which are important in maintaining the healthiest population of that most magnificent of all India's wild creatures: the Tiger!
Currently, there is perhaps nowhere better than the fabulous setting of Bandhavgarh to see Tiger. With the aid of elephants, it is sometimes possible to get close enough to seemingly smell their breath - truly a spine-tingling moment in one's life! During our searches for Tiger we should also encounter a fine variety of other mammals, including herds of Chital and even Sloth Bear. Birds will be conspicuous too, roving the woodlands in mixed flocks at this time of year, when India's many resident species are joined by winter visitors from both Siberian and Himalayan forests. Lesser Adjutant, Crested Serpent Eagle, Plum-headed Parakeet, Black-hooded Oriole and Golden-fronted Leafbird are among more than two hundred species we could see on this tour. After starting our birdwatching at Sultanpur near Delhi, we travel south to one of India's largest national parks: Kanha. In post-monsoon November there should be plenty of water about, with fresh growth of grasses for the deer and antelope - and good hunting for Tigers! It's at Kanha that we might also come across a group of massive Gaur grazing silently at the forest's edge. Following four nights at Kanha, we transfer to Bandhavgarh National Park. Set amid the rocky hills of the Vindhya range, Bandhavgarh is barely one-third the size of Kanha - but is simply the most reliable place in all India to regularly see and experience close encounters with Tiger! The sought-after Mottled Wood Owl, Orange-headed Thrush and Tickell's Blue Flycatcher are among the park's many avian attractions. An exciting optional extension then takes us to world famous Bharatpur, for some terrific wetland birding before concluding with a day sightseeing in Agra. Our tour uses domestic flights to cut travel time and features upgraded hotel accommodation in Delhi and at the very comfortable King's Lodge in Bandhavgarh. Travel with us for a superb birding and wildlife tour, one that combines visits to India's top Tiger reserves with the magic of Bharatpur and the marble magnificence of the Taj Mahal. Itinerary Please note: Kanha and Bandhavgarh are among the most remote of India's national parks and getting to them involves quite a journey, be it by air, road and/or rail. By using flights in and out of Jabalpur, our Heart of India tour is designed to cut travel time and inconvenience to the minimum possible. But arguably the best chances of seeing Tiger anywhere in India, as well as an excellent range of birds and other mammals, make journeying there well worth the effort! On his path-finding visit for us in April 2007, guide Brian Small enjoyed no fewer than fourteen encounters with Tiger, while subsequent tours have enjoyed superb sightings - some of them extremely close! Days 1 - 2 We fly from London to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi early on the morning of day two, where we shall be welcomed by our local guide and transfer directly to our hotel (conveniently located within a few kilometres of the airport), to rest a while. After breakfast at our Delhi hotel, we will pay a visit to the famous bird sanctuary at Sultanpur Jheel. *1 As we pass through the bustling outskirts of the country's bustling capital, we shall experience a first taste of the magic of birding in India. Jaunty Common and Bank Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws and perky Pied Bushchats perch boldly atop walls and roof tops as the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. *1 Participants preferring to spend the day at leisure, perhaps relaxing at the hotel or sightseeing in Delhi, are most welcome to do so. If the water levels are good, both dry country and wetland birds can be numerous at Sultanpur. Indian Spot-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, stately Common and Sarus Cranes, Indian Pond Herons, Purple Swamphens, Grey Francolin, Spotted Owlet, Little Cormorant and the handsome Black-necked Stork are among species we could see here today. The surrounding trees not only offer welcome shade as we stroll round, but hold numerous other birds too, including the sociable Large Grey Babbler, smart Bay-backed Shrikes, wintering Blyth's Reed Warblers and restless Hume's Leaf and Greenish Warblers. After enjoying most of the day at Sultanpur, we return to our Delhi hotel. We will plan to retire early to bed this evening in readiness for tomorrow morning's flight into 'Tiger country'. Two nights at the Country Inn & Suites by Carlson, in Delhi. Days 3 - 6 Our flight to Jabalpur departs Delhi in the morning, and we should arrive at Jabalpur in time for lunch. The southwards journey from Jabalpur (the nearest town served by scheduled flights) to Kanha will take several hours, allowing for time to enjoy the birds in a variety of habitats - including a number of ponds choked with lilies that find favour with fabulous Pheasant-tailed and beefier Bronze-winged Jacanas. Situated in Madhya Pradesh state in north-central India and covering 1945 sq kms of forest and lightly wooded grasslands, Kanha is one of the subcontinent's largest and most remote national parks. Depending on the number of stops, we should arrive at our comfortable jungle lodge late this afternoon, allowing time to settle into our rooms and perhaps a short walk in the gardens before it gets dark. Accommodation at the Tuli Tiger Resort - where we stay for four nights - is in twin-bedded stone cottages or permanent tents (with air-conditioning and private facilities), set amid flower-filled gardens and light forest just outside the reserve. Kanha was the setting for Kipling's classic novel, The Jungle Book. Rich in wildlife, its vast grasslands - known as 'maidans' and bounded by spurs of the crescentic Maikal Ridge on the southern rim - support large herds of deer that have earned Kanha the nick-name "the N'Gorongoro of India". The national park itself was established in 1955 to protect the endangered 'hardground' Swamp Deer (Barasingha), but in fact boasts a superb variety of other deer and large mammals including Sambar, Chital and Indian Muntjac, the immense Gaur, Grey Langur, Golden Jackal, Bengal Fox, Wild Boar - and of course, Tiger! With very good luck, we may encounter some of the park's rarer and less frequently seen mammals, too; exciting possibilities include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Sloth Bear, Striped Hyena, Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Pangolin and the Four-horned Antelope (or Chousingha). As one would expect, India's mammals are most active early and late in the day so we'll make daily excursions into the park in the early mornings and evenings to search for them. Kanha is one of the subcontinent's very best reserves for Tiger and we have good chances of success - although sightings can never, of course, be guaranteed! To maximise our chances of seeing Tiger, a typical day will involve leaving our lodge just before dawn, to enjoy the first of the day's wildlife drives. Breakfast is most frequently a picnic, eating this within the park, where we stay until late morning (the reserve closes during the hottest part of the day). After lunch back at the lodge, we have the opportunity to rest up or to enjoy short birding walks around the grounds before re-entering the park when it opens again in the mid-afternoon, and staying until just before dusk (when the reserve closes again). Occasionally, if the Tigers are resting, we will have the chance to get close to them by the use of elephant back. As well as many mammals, Kanha is a terrific spot for birds and we should encounter more than a hundred species during our stay in the park. Dandy Red Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl strut their immaculate stuff and among many other species to watch are Woolly-necked and Black Storks, Lesser Whistling-duck, Red-wattled and Yellow-wattled Lapwings, Oriental Turtle and Spotted Doves, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Alexandrine and Plum-headed Parakeets, Common Hawk-cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Jungle and Spotted Owlets, Little Green Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed and Coppersmith Barbets. In winter, numerous passerines are present at Kanha, too. White-browed Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Red-breasted and Taiga Flycatchers, White-rumped Shama, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Tailorbird, various prinias, Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers, Pale-billed Flowerpecker, Purple Sunbird, Common Rosefinch, Asian Pied and Brahminy Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole, Black and White-bellied Drongos, the outrageous Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Rufous Treepie and Large-billed Crow feature among a long list of species we could see. As the day begins to warm we should also be treated to a good variety of birds of prey, from Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, White-eyed Buzzard and Shikra to the impressive Crested Serpent Eagle and Crested Hawk-eagle. Formerly abundant, numbers of vultures have, however, plummeted throughout India over the past decade or so and nowadays we should count ourselves lucky to see more than a handful of Indian White-backed, Red-headed and Indian Vultures. Among other scarce or more elusive birds to watch for at Kanha are the likes of Lesser Adjutant, Black Ibis, Red Spurfowl, Greater Painted-snipe, Brown Fish Owl, Crested Treeswift, Streak-throated and White-naped Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-headed Cuckooshrikes, Gold-fronted and Jerdon's Leafbirds (the latter now treated as distinct from Blue-winged), Indian Scimitar Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia and Chestnut-tailed Starling. Four nights Tuli Tiger Resort, in Kanha National Park Day 7 After an early breakfast this morning, we depart Kanha and head north to our next destination, superb Bandhavgarh National Park. Though the distance is not that great (about 140 kms in all), neither are the roads(!) and the journey there will probably take around eight hours, allowing for stops on the way. We shall keep a keen eye open for birds as we go, and will break our journey with a stop to enjoy a picnic lunch before arriving late this afternoon at the comfortable Kings Lodge, at the start of a three-night stay. Set in a twelve acre site and within ten minutes drive of the park entrance at Bandhavgarh, Kings Lodge has been built to blend with the surrounding landscape of sal forested hills and operates eco-sensitive policies, which include training local villagers to work as camp staff and naturalist guides. The lodge's cottage rooms are well appointed, with air-conditioning and modern en suite bathrooms. Overnight Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh Days 8 - 9 Before its designation as a National Park in 1968, Bandhavgarh was the hunting preserve of the Maharajas of Rewa (still owners of the ancient natural fort that dominates the forest at the heart of the park). Though small in comparison to Kanha, Bandhavgarh's hilly core protects 105 sq. kms of prime deciduous Sal forest and immense grassy meadows - studded with small lakes and marshes and patches of evergreen forest - that currently offer the best chances of seeing and photographing Tigers anywhere in India. The reserve is superb for other large mammals too, with Indian Gazelle (or Chinkara), Sambar, Four-horned Antelope, Indian Muntjac, Nilgai and large numbers of Chital, as well as an array of rarer and much more elusive species such as Sloth Bear, Ratel and Jungle Cat. Boisterous troops of Grey Langurs are frequently seen and small mammals we should encounter include Ruddy Mongoose, Indian Hare and Northern Palm Squirrel. Again, early mornings and evenings are the best for observing wildlife so we'll make timely excursions into the park, exploring its network of tracks by jeep with expert driver-guides. The movements of Tiger are, of course, unpredictable and there are no absolute guarantees. But the habits of Bandhavgarh's Tigers are well known to the park's staff - especially the elephant mahouts, who specialise in tracking and monitoring them. 'Driven' by a mahout, each elephant carries up to four people and we will hope to switch to elephant back in the event the mahouts have been successful in tracking a Tiger. Though such encounters are by no means daily, we have perhaps our best chance of seeing one or more of these magnificent predators from elephant back - sometimes at incredibly close quarters! Bandhavgarh's varied habitats support a wealth of exciting birds too, among them localised specialities such as Mottled Wood Owl, Brown Fish Owl and Stork-billed Kingfisher. We have further chances of a broad range of other central Indian species - from White-breasted Waterhen, Malabar Pied Hornbill and Indian Pygmy and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, to Olive-backed and Tree Pipits, Indian Robin, Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and Tawny-bellied, Puff-throated and Jungle Babblers. Bonelli's Eagle is one of many birds of prey to be seen, along with several 'Indian' species that have recently been 'split', such as Indian Stone-curlew and Indian Nuthatch. No trip to Bandhavgarh would be complete without a visit to the park's impressive fort, which sits atop cliffs that soar to 800m (2625ft), and which tower 300m (1000ft) above the surrounding countryside. It is no longer possible to walk up to the fort - too many Tiger encounters have worried the park authorities and put paid to that - so we will travel by Jeep to the top of the escarpment. The track is steep and bumpy but well worth making the effort, with chances of seeing Indian Vulture (which breed on the cliffs), Dusky Crag Martin, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Jungle Prinia and wintering Sulphur-bellied Warblers along the way. Views from the top of the escarpment, which we'll hope to savour as we enjoy our packed lunch, are breathtaking! Two nights Kings Lodge, Bandhavgarh Day 10 Taking a boxed breakfast, we leave Bandhavgarh this morning and drive back to Jabalpur in time to catch the lunchtime flight to Delhi. Afternoon arrival in the capital and transfer to the nearby Country Inn & Suites Hotel where we shall enjoy a late lunch and the remainder of the afternoon at leisure. After dinner at the hotel this evening, participants taking the tour extension retire to bed, while those not taking the extension make a late evening transfer to Delhi airport and check-in for their return flight to London. Day 11 For those going home, the flight departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 11, with arrival back in London later the same day. BHARATPUR & TAJ EXTENSION Day 10 Overnight at the Country Inn & Suites by Carlson, in Delhi. Days 11 - 13 Leaving our Delhi hotel, we transfer to the railway station and catch a lunchtime train south to Bharatpur, a journey of about two hours and twenty minutes. On arrival in Bharatpur, we make the short transfer to the Laxmi Vilas Palace, our hotel for a three-night stay in Bharatpur. We should arrive in time to enjoy some late afternoon birding around the hotel prior to dinner this evening. Over the next two days, we will explore the nearby Keoladeo National Park - better known the world over simply as 'Bharatpur' - with its magical birdlife. Bharatpur's waterbirds are its crowning glory, crowding on to the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar wintering duck. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-throated Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Black Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill. The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can hope to encounter Steppe, Eastern Imperial, Booted, Bonelli's, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Marsh Harrier - and probably many more. Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are lucky we may dig out a handsome Greater Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident. In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialities as Yellow-crowned and Indian Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Eagle Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, Marshall's Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but desirable species. The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Woodshrike, White-eared Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet! Three nights at Laxmi Vilas Palace, Bharatpur. Day 14 Leaving Bharatpur after an early breakfast, we drive to Agra (a journey of about 90 minutes) and the incomparable Taj Mahal, so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of other tourists start to build. One of the true wonders of the man-made world, this marvel of Moghul architecture was built by the emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. One's first sight of this magnificent building, an extravagant jewel-encrusted mausoleum hewn from the finest white marble, is truly awe-inspiring! Even here there are birds to distract us: Black Kites, Egyptian Vultures and House Swifts wheel overhead, and the gardens play host to the likes of Indian Grey Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet. Whilst below, on the mighty Yamuna river, River Lapwings and other waders are often present. We move on to take a guided tour of Agra's massive Red Fort. If time permits, from the turreted upper windows here, we shall be able to look back along the Yamuna River to enjoy one last view of the majestic Taj Mahal. Our sightseeing over, and after lunch at a local restaurant, we transfer to the railway station and catch the Chattisgargh Express to Delhi. Dinner tonight will be at a hotel restaurant convenient for the airport, after which we make a late evening transfer to the airport and check-in for our return flight to London. Day 15 Our flight home departs early on the morning of Day 15, with arrival back in London later the same day. Accommodation: We stay at the better quality tourist hotels in Delhi and Agra, and use lodges at the quality end of the available accommodation at Kanha and Bandhavgargh Tiger Reserves, where lodgings are comfortable but more simple and rustic. All rooms have air-conditioning and private facilities (also, should they be needed, mosquito nets). Comfortable en suite accommodation on the Bharatpur extension at the Laxmi Vilas Palace, which was built in 1887 for Raja Raghunath Singh and converted into a hotel in 1994. Meals: All included in the price. Most meals are taken at the hotels and lodges with picnics on travelling days. As one would expect, food is generally Indian in style, though the lodges will endeavour to meet special requirements if given a little prior warning. Walking : Easy. Please note: owing to the presence of Tigers and other large mammals, away from the lodges and other designated areas, the majority of our bird and mammal-watching within India's Tiger Reserves must be done by jeep - or elephant back! - so little opportunity for any sustained walking exists. There are no such restrictions on the Bharatpur extension, with excursions here by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot (motorised vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve). Weather : From November-March the weather in this part of India is typically fine and sunny, with temperatures averaging 15-25°C. However note that nights can be very cold (frost is possible!), and it is likely to feel chilly-really cold during early morning game drives - requiring warm clothing, hat, gloves and scarf! - until the sun gets up and quickly starts to warm things up. The need for warm clothing (possibly even thermal underwear!) cannot be over-stated; it is better to have too many warm clothes than feel cold! It may be overcast at times but rainfall is scarce and any showers are unlikely to be prolonged. Ground Transport: By road (bus or small coach) and rail as per the detailed itinerary, using four-wheel-drive vehicles in the National Parks. In the event of successful Tiger tracking by the mahouts, some excursions within the parks may also be made by elephant, as opportunity arises and subject to availability. Our tour cost includes provision for a maximum of two elephant rides per person. It may be possible for those that wish to arrange and pay for an additional elephant ride/s locally (again, subject to availability). Please note that the local 'jeeps' are designated routes by the park authorities (i.e. we have absolutely no say in this) and it may be that the different vehicles go their own separate ways. However, each vehicle carries an experienced guide to assist with the animal and bird identification, and our own guides will endeavour to distribute themselves equally between all participants during our stay. Leaders: Robin Chittenden & local guides Numbers: Max. 14 clients |
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