Scottish Island Cruise
St Kilda, North Rona, Sula Sgeir, the Flannan Isles... Britain's remotest and most inaccessible isles that, to anyone keen on islands, wild places or seabirds are places to dream about visiting one day. Well, now you can visit all of them in a week, and take in Fair Isle and Mousa in the Shetland Islands as well. After a break in 2009, we are planning to return in 2010.
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The prices are per person, and are fully inclusive of the cruise, meals during the voyage, shore excursions by Zodiac and activities throughout the voyage, lectures and leadership by expedition staff, taxes and port charges, pre-departure information and optional coach transfer Oban/Aberdeen.
The prices exclude travel to and from Aberdeen/Oban (or Aberdeen/Aberdeen if taking the return coach) before and after the cruise, optional tips to cruise staff and crew, drinks, and other personal expenses. This trip will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays. Leaders: will include Paul Harvey and Oceanwide Expeditions staff. |
The secret of getting to all these far-flung islands is to use one of the expedition ships that normally spend their time in the Arctic and Antarctic, with the flexibility of zodiac craft, and an expedition team well-used to landing in complete safety on remote and 'difficult' islands.
This year we have taken cabins on the 'Plancius', a former oceanographic research vessel of the Dutch navy and now custom-redesigned for expedition cruising by its owners, Oceanwide Expeditions of The Netherlands. The ship can take 112 passengers and cabin accommodation is fully en suite.
As well as being probably the best time for seabirds, May is a good time for migrant birds and a few rarities on the northern isles, and we'll be on the look out for anything unusual. Who could have predicted the splendid Snowy Owl that we found in 2005 on St Kilda for example, the 2006 Black-browed Albatross nestbuilding on Sula Sgeir, or, most amazing of all, a Trumpeter Finch from the desert that we found on North Rona in 2008?
Provisional Itinerary
We embark in the afternoon at Aberdeen harbour. Aberdeen is easy to reach by train - the harbour is just a couple of streets away from the station - or by air, with plenty of flights available from many UK airports.
Next morning we reach Fair Isle - one of our favourite places in the world! This remote jewel of an island is only three miles long, with a thriving crofting community of around seventy people, spectacular cliff scenery, and vast seabird colonies. But for many of the people who regularly visit Fair Isle (and so many return again and again!) it is meeting the islanders themselves that is one of the highlights of a stay here. Life here must make huge demands on people's time, energies and resourcefulness, yet the islanders always seem to have time to talk to visitors and make them feel welcome. We'll have a chance to see the workings of the Bird Observatory, and if there are any migrant birds about, actually watch bird-ringing in progress. We'll also have a chance to visit the superb little museum, and see a display of the famous Fair Isle crafts, including knitwear.
In the evening we'll head towards Mainland Shetland and past Sumburgh Head to Mousa, one of the smaller Shetland Islands. We land at night to watch Storm Petrels return to their burrows or crevices in and around the famous Pictish broch - an ancient circular stone tower that is the largest of its kind in the world. Numbers of petrels can vary enormously, and this is right at the start of the petrel season. But on a good evening, as we have experienced in the past, thousands of birds can be fluttering around us, sometimes brushing us with their wingtips as they fly past.
Our next stop is the small island of Foula, one of the remotest inhabited isles in Britain, home to one of the largest colonies of Great Skuas in the northern hemisphere. As well as spectacular cliffs, almost as high at St Kilda's, with large numbers of seabirds, the island also has some excellent wetland habitats that can be attractive to migrants. The locals here are very welcoming, and we hope to spend some time with them learning about the fascinating history and wildlife of this special island. If the landing on Foula is difficult, we'll head for another equally fascinating isle, this time at the edge of the Orkneys : Papa Westray, famous for its accessible seabird colonies.
We continue on to what are arguably the most remote and inaccessible islands in Britain - the tiny islands of North Rona and Sula Sgeir. Lying about 40 miles north of the Butt of Lewis, the north point of the Outer Hebrides, these islands are only ever seen by the favoured few, and to succeed in landing on either is a rare experience indeed.
We'll try to land on the wonderful isle of North Rona, an island of green and lush grasslands whose cliffs teem with seabirds, including myriads of Puffins, and whose rocky shores are home to impressive numbers of Grey Seals. Here, incredibly, can be found Britain's oldest surviving Christian building, St Ronan's Chapel, which dates from the 8th century, along with the ruins of some stone houses, some occupied until 19th century. Migrant birds can arrive in surprising numbers, along with a few rarities; in the past, for example we have seen Icterine Warbler, Shore Lark and Red-backed Shrike here amongst the grass and boulders, together with the more expected waders and geese. In 2008 we found a Trumpeter Finch here!
In the evening we'll cruise past the rock stack of Sula Sgeir, the last island in Britain on which Gannets are harvested annually, and will see some of the stone shelters where the men of Ness live for two weeks while they catch and preserve the 'gugas' or young Gannets, as they have for hundreds of years. In 2007 we saw a Black-browed Albatross settled and even nestbuilding amongst the Gannets - perhaps it will be back in 2010!
We continue south and west to the rugged Flannan Islands, home to teeming colonies of seabirds, including innumerable Puffins. We hope to take a zodiac cruise around one of the Flannans, and investigate some of its dramatic sea-caves, as well as seeing the famous lighthouse, where over a hundred years ago three lighthouse keepers famously and mysteriously vanished. In the afternoon, if the weather is suitable, we'll have time for a visit to the famous standing stones of Callanish on the Isle of Lewis before heading out into the Atlantic towards lonely St Kilda.
Nothing can really prepare you for the sheer scale of these islands, the remnants of a huge volcano, with some of the hardest rocks in Britain rising skywards from the Atlantic waves. The islands here have stupendous cliffs and skies filled with Gannets from the largest colony in the North Atlantic. The ruined cottages on Hirta, the main island, bear witness to the history and sad end of human habitation here. We'll meet up with one of the local wardens for a look at some of the old houses, and to hear about how the old Kildans eked out an existence here on the 'edge of the world'. We'll also keep an eye out for the St Kilda Wren, a unique subspecies. Given good weather, a walk along the main ridge of Hirta, with views across the island, and to the outlying isles of Soay, Dun, Boreray and the Gannet-clad pinnacles of Stac an Armin and Stac Lee, must rank amongst the most spectacular walks anywhere in Britain. An excellent portrayal of these islands (featuring some of the wardens we might meet!) was given on the recent BBC 'Britain's Lost World' series.
We head back east, rounding Barra Head, and crossing the Minch, keeping an eye out for Storm Petrels. In the morning, we'll find ourselves at anchor off the Isle of Canna, one of the 'Small Isles' of the Inner Hebrides, and home to just a handful of crofters. Here the imposing cliffs of columnar basalt are home to majestic White-tailed Eagles and Peregrine Falcons. In the evening we cruise up the sound of Mull, with Scottish hills on both sides, and watch for flocks of Manx Shearwaters gathering before returning to their burrows high on the Isle of Rum. This is also a good area for Common Dolphins, which might join the ship's bow-wave.
The cruise ends after breakfast at the attractive port of Oban, on the west coast of Scotland. Birdwatching can still continue as we disembark, with Black Guillemots on the harbour wall, and possible Glaucous or Iceland Gulls in the harbour. A coach will then take those who wish for a scenic drive across the Scottish mainland, arriving back at Aberdeen airport in the afternoon.
All these islands can be hard to get to, and bad weather may prevent us going, so the above itinerary is subject to change. However, there is a real chance of getting to all of them, and of experiencing an absolutely unforgettable week. We must emphasise that this is an island trip as much as a wildlife trip! Our main aim will be to get to and, if possible, land on the islands, but of course we'll aim to see as much wildlife - birds, marine mammals, flowers and others - as possible during the week.
The Plancius
M/v 'Plancius' started her life in 1976 as an oceanographic research vessel for the Royal Dutch Navy and was named 'Hr. Ms. Tydeman'. In June 2004, the vessel was taken out of active service and was purchased by Oceanwide Expeditions in December 2006.
Still under construction, but available for Polar expeditions in June 2009, the vessel shall be completely rebuilt as a 112-passenger vessel and shall comply with the latest SOLAS-regulations (Safety Of Life At Sea), is classed by Lloyd's Register in London and will fly the Dutch flag.
The vessel will be comfortable and nicely decorated, but is not a luxurious vessel. Our voyages in the Arctic and Antarctic regions are and will still be primarily defined by an exploratory educational travel programme, spending as much time ashore as possible. This vessel will fully meet our demands to achieve this.
M/v 'Plancius' can accommodate 112 passengers in 54 passenger cabins with private toilet and shower in 4 triple private cabins, 40 twin private cabins (ca. 15 square meters) and 10 twin superior cabins (ca. 21 square meters).
The vessel is manned by 30 international crew members (inc. 10 stewardesses/cabin cleaners), 6 hotel staff (4 chefs, 1 purser and 1 steward-barman), 6 expedition staff (1 expedition leader and 5 guides-lecturers) and 1 doctor.
M/v Plancius Deckplan - click for larger image
Accommodation: Cabins as described above subject to availability.
Travel: The cruise starts in Aberdeen and finishes in Oban. Both can be reached by train - please use the national rail enquiry service for details. We can also arrange flights to and from Aberdeen: please enquire for details. If enough clients would like a coach service between Oban and Aberdeen we can arrange this.
This year we have taken cabins on the 'Plancius', a former oceanographic research vessel of the Dutch navy and now custom-redesigned for expedition cruising by its owners, Oceanwide Expeditions of The Netherlands. The ship can take 112 passengers and cabin accommodation is fully en suite.
As well as being probably the best time for seabirds, May is a good time for migrant birds and a few rarities on the northern isles, and we'll be on the look out for anything unusual. Who could have predicted the splendid Snowy Owl that we found in 2005 on St Kilda for example, the 2006 Black-browed Albatross nestbuilding on Sula Sgeir, or, most amazing of all, a Trumpeter Finch from the desert that we found on North Rona in 2008?
Provisional Itinerary
We embark in the afternoon at Aberdeen harbour. Aberdeen is easy to reach by train - the harbour is just a couple of streets away from the station - or by air, with plenty of flights available from many UK airports.
Next morning we reach Fair Isle - one of our favourite places in the world! This remote jewel of an island is only three miles long, with a thriving crofting community of around seventy people, spectacular cliff scenery, and vast seabird colonies. But for many of the people who regularly visit Fair Isle (and so many return again and again!) it is meeting the islanders themselves that is one of the highlights of a stay here. Life here must make huge demands on people's time, energies and resourcefulness, yet the islanders always seem to have time to talk to visitors and make them feel welcome. We'll have a chance to see the workings of the Bird Observatory, and if there are any migrant birds about, actually watch bird-ringing in progress. We'll also have a chance to visit the superb little museum, and see a display of the famous Fair Isle crafts, including knitwear.
In the evening we'll head towards Mainland Shetland and past Sumburgh Head to Mousa, one of the smaller Shetland Islands. We land at night to watch Storm Petrels return to their burrows or crevices in and around the famous Pictish broch - an ancient circular stone tower that is the largest of its kind in the world. Numbers of petrels can vary enormously, and this is right at the start of the petrel season. But on a good evening, as we have experienced in the past, thousands of birds can be fluttering around us, sometimes brushing us with their wingtips as they fly past.
Our next stop is the small island of Foula, one of the remotest inhabited isles in Britain, home to one of the largest colonies of Great Skuas in the northern hemisphere. As well as spectacular cliffs, almost as high at St Kilda's, with large numbers of seabirds, the island also has some excellent wetland habitats that can be attractive to migrants. The locals here are very welcoming, and we hope to spend some time with them learning about the fascinating history and wildlife of this special island. If the landing on Foula is difficult, we'll head for another equally fascinating isle, this time at the edge of the Orkneys : Papa Westray, famous for its accessible seabird colonies.
We continue on to what are arguably the most remote and inaccessible islands in Britain - the tiny islands of North Rona and Sula Sgeir. Lying about 40 miles north of the Butt of Lewis, the north point of the Outer Hebrides, these islands are only ever seen by the favoured few, and to succeed in landing on either is a rare experience indeed.
We'll try to land on the wonderful isle of North Rona, an island of green and lush grasslands whose cliffs teem with seabirds, including myriads of Puffins, and whose rocky shores are home to impressive numbers of Grey Seals. Here, incredibly, can be found Britain's oldest surviving Christian building, St Ronan's Chapel, which dates from the 8th century, along with the ruins of some stone houses, some occupied until 19th century. Migrant birds can arrive in surprising numbers, along with a few rarities; in the past, for example we have seen Icterine Warbler, Shore Lark and Red-backed Shrike here amongst the grass and boulders, together with the more expected waders and geese. In 2008 we found a Trumpeter Finch here!
In the evening we'll cruise past the rock stack of Sula Sgeir, the last island in Britain on which Gannets are harvested annually, and will see some of the stone shelters where the men of Ness live for two weeks while they catch and preserve the 'gugas' or young Gannets, as they have for hundreds of years. In 2007 we saw a Black-browed Albatross settled and even nestbuilding amongst the Gannets - perhaps it will be back in 2010!
We continue south and west to the rugged Flannan Islands, home to teeming colonies of seabirds, including innumerable Puffins. We hope to take a zodiac cruise around one of the Flannans, and investigate some of its dramatic sea-caves, as well as seeing the famous lighthouse, where over a hundred years ago three lighthouse keepers famously and mysteriously vanished. In the afternoon, if the weather is suitable, we'll have time for a visit to the famous standing stones of Callanish on the Isle of Lewis before heading out into the Atlantic towards lonely St Kilda.
Nothing can really prepare you for the sheer scale of these islands, the remnants of a huge volcano, with some of the hardest rocks in Britain rising skywards from the Atlantic waves. The islands here have stupendous cliffs and skies filled with Gannets from the largest colony in the North Atlantic. The ruined cottages on Hirta, the main island, bear witness to the history and sad end of human habitation here. We'll meet up with one of the local wardens for a look at some of the old houses, and to hear about how the old Kildans eked out an existence here on the 'edge of the world'. We'll also keep an eye out for the St Kilda Wren, a unique subspecies. Given good weather, a walk along the main ridge of Hirta, with views across the island, and to the outlying isles of Soay, Dun, Boreray and the Gannet-clad pinnacles of Stac an Armin and Stac Lee, must rank amongst the most spectacular walks anywhere in Britain. An excellent portrayal of these islands (featuring some of the wardens we might meet!) was given on the recent BBC 'Britain's Lost World' series.
We head back east, rounding Barra Head, and crossing the Minch, keeping an eye out for Storm Petrels. In the morning, we'll find ourselves at anchor off the Isle of Canna, one of the 'Small Isles' of the Inner Hebrides, and home to just a handful of crofters. Here the imposing cliffs of columnar basalt are home to majestic White-tailed Eagles and Peregrine Falcons. In the evening we cruise up the sound of Mull, with Scottish hills on both sides, and watch for flocks of Manx Shearwaters gathering before returning to their burrows high on the Isle of Rum. This is also a good area for Common Dolphins, which might join the ship's bow-wave.
The cruise ends after breakfast at the attractive port of Oban, on the west coast of Scotland. Birdwatching can still continue as we disembark, with Black Guillemots on the harbour wall, and possible Glaucous or Iceland Gulls in the harbour. A coach will then take those who wish for a scenic drive across the Scottish mainland, arriving back at Aberdeen airport in the afternoon.
All these islands can be hard to get to, and bad weather may prevent us going, so the above itinerary is subject to change. However, there is a real chance of getting to all of them, and of experiencing an absolutely unforgettable week. We must emphasise that this is an island trip as much as a wildlife trip! Our main aim will be to get to and, if possible, land on the islands, but of course we'll aim to see as much wildlife - birds, marine mammals, flowers and others - as possible during the week.
The Plancius
M/v 'Plancius' started her life in 1976 as an oceanographic research vessel for the Royal Dutch Navy and was named 'Hr. Ms. Tydeman'. In June 2004, the vessel was taken out of active service and was purchased by Oceanwide Expeditions in December 2006.
Still under construction, but available for Polar expeditions in June 2009, the vessel shall be completely rebuilt as a 112-passenger vessel and shall comply with the latest SOLAS-regulations (Safety Of Life At Sea), is classed by Lloyd's Register in London and will fly the Dutch flag.
The vessel will be comfortable and nicely decorated, but is not a luxurious vessel. Our voyages in the Arctic and Antarctic regions are and will still be primarily defined by an exploratory educational travel programme, spending as much time ashore as possible. This vessel will fully meet our demands to achieve this.
M/v 'Plancius' can accommodate 112 passengers in 54 passenger cabins with private toilet and shower in 4 triple private cabins, 40 twin private cabins (ca. 15 square meters) and 10 twin superior cabins (ca. 21 square meters).
The vessel is manned by 30 international crew members (inc. 10 stewardesses/cabin cleaners), 6 hotel staff (4 chefs, 1 purser and 1 steward-barman), 6 expedition staff (1 expedition leader and 5 guides-lecturers) and 1 doctor.
M/v Plancius Deckplan - click for larger image
Accommodation: Cabins as described above subject to availability.
Travel: The cruise starts in Aberdeen and finishes in Oban. Both can be reached by train - please use the national rail enquiry service for details. We can also arrange flights to and from Aberdeen: please enquire for details. If enough clients would like a coach service between Oban and Aberdeen we can arrange this.
UK Tel: 01305 267994, UK Fax: 01305 265506, International Tel: +44-1305-267994, International Fax: +44-1305-265506
email: info@naturalist.co.uk