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Northern India
Bharatpur, Corbett & Nainital

Saturday 20 November - Saturday 4 December 2010 (15 days)

Saturday 26 November - Saturday 10 December 2011 (15 days)





Prices:

2010 - £ 2,995
2011 - £ 3,295

Single supps.:

2010 - £ 335
2011 - £ 395

Deposit: £ 400 per person

The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return scheduled flights London-Delhi; all accommodation and meals; surface transport by bus (some excursions by bicycle-rickshaw at Bharatpur and 4WD vehicle and/or elephant at Corbett National Park); boat trip on Chambal River; entrance fees to parks and Taj Mahal; tips and airport taxes; map; bird and mammal checklist; and services of the leader/s.

The price excludes travel insurance, Indian visa costs (our office will send UK residents the necessary visa application form and guidance notes), drinks & other personal expenses. Camera fees in national parks, wherever these are levied (often nothing or a very small nominal charge; for a video camera it is more - allow approx. £5 per day in the parks).

Both trips will be operated in conjunction with Limosa Holidays.

Principal Leader: Peter Kennerley


From the magic of Bharatpur's wetlands and the magnificence of the Taj Mahal, we travel across the Gangetic plain, with a chance of Gharial crocodiles and Ganges River Dolphins, to the Himalayan foothills, with the wonderful grasslands and forests of Corbett National Park and the spectacular hill station of Nainital. Join us for a classic Indian journey!

photo of a wild Indian tiger

photo of a Sloth Bear

photo of a Crested Hawk Eagle, a species often seen on our wildlife holiday to India

photo of a Leopard

photo of a Black-winged Stilt, a species often seen on our trip to Northern India

photo of a Lammergeier, a species often seen on our trip to Northern India

photo of a Long-legged Buzzard, a species often seen on our trip to Northern India

Few destinations on Earth are more compelling than the Indian subcontinent. A vast, colourful and crowded land, yet possessing some of the most spectacular wildlife in all Asia, India today offers perhaps the most memorable of travel experiences anywhere in the world. Our Classic India tour is designed to show you a fabulous cross-section of the best India's birds and wildlife in some of its most famous and exciting settings.

The magic begins at the celebrated Keoladeo National Park, better known simply as Bharatpur. Time stands still on our first afternoon's walk here (and we won't get very far either!) as wintering Siberian birds abound. Bluethroats run across the paths and the acacias positively hum with restless Greenish and Hume's Leaf Warblers. But, if the summer rains have been good, it is the abundance of Bharatpur's wetland species that really takes centre stage. Huge Sarus Cranes and Black-necked Storks mingle with flocks of Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, whilst all about there is a hubbub of activity from myriad other waterbirds.

No stay in the plains would be complete without a pilgrimage to the most famous of India's cultural sites, and we include a morning sightseeing at Agra and the sublime Taj Mahal. A stopover along the wonderful Chambal River should reward us with Indian Skimmer and Great Thick-knee, while a boat trip here could also produce the rare Ganges River Dolphin.

Leaving the plains behind, we journey north into the foothills of the Himalayas. Encompassing 1300 sq. kms of riverine grassland and forest, Corbett is India's oldest national park. While the setting is superb, the sheer variety of bird life is astounding: more than 500 species have been recorded! Asian Elephants roam the woodlands and birds to watch for include a positive bedazzlement of songbirds as well as some really special treats, such as Pallas's Fish Eagle and Crested Kingfisher.

Pausing to look for Ibisbill and Wallcreeper, we ascend to the spectacular old hill-station of Nainital. Standing beside an ice-cold lake, Nainital seems to perch on the very edge of the world. Here, the Blue Whistling Thrush holds court as we search the alpine woodlands and mountainsides for Rufous-breasted Accentor, Lammergeier, Black-headed Jay and a host of other wonderful Himalayan birds to round off our Classic India tour in style.

Peter Kennerley is a veteran of more than a score of visits to the Indian subcontinent. why not join Peter this year, as we return to the bird-rich marshes, mountains and jungles of Northern India.

Itinerary
Days 1-2
We fly from London to Delhi. Arrival in Delhi on morning of Day 2, where we shall be met by our local guide and board our bus for the journey south to Bharatpur.

As we pass through the busy outskirts of the capital we shall experience a first taste of the magic of India. Jaunty Bank and Common Mynas dodge between the wheels of rickshaws, Oriental Magpie-robins sit up boldly atop rooftops and walls, and the ever-present shapes of Black Kites cruise the skies overhead. Soon we are travelling through a rural landscape of bustling villages, passing a myriad of roadside pools adorned with Black-winged Stilts, Red-wattled Lapwings and House Crows.

It's about a four-hour drive to Bharatpur, which will be our base for a three-night stay. After settling into our hotel here, after lunch we'll pay a first visit to the nearby Keoladeo National Park - better known the world over simply as 'Bharatpur' - for a first look at its magical birdlife.
Overnight Bharatpur

Days 3 - 4
During the next two days, we will explore this fabulously rich but surprisingly compact reserve, covering most of the different habitats and their associated birds as well as searching for a number of local and, in many cases, elusive species.

Bharatpur's waterbirds are its crowning glory, crowding on to the open flooded pools (jheels) contained within the leafy, tree-lined bunds. Little and Indian Cormorants, Woolly-necked and Painted Storks, innumerable herons and egrets, Asian Openbill and the huge Black-necked Stork mingle with Lesser Whistling-duck, Comb Duck, Cotton Pygmy-geese and a host of more familiar wintering duck. White-breasted Waterhens and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas haunt the shallows, as a sudden blaze of blue transforms into a jay-sized White-throated Kingfisher as it plunges from its perch. Other wetland species we may see include Common Crane, Purple Heron, Black Bittern, Black-headed and Black Ibises and Eurasian Spoonbill.

The number of birds of prey present in the sanctuary is often impressive too, and during our stay we can hope to encounter Steppe, Eastern Imperial, Booted, Bonelli's, Greater and Indian Spotted Eagles, the magnificent Crested Serpent Eagle, Pallas's Fish Eagle, Shikra and Marsh Harrier - and probably many more.

Out in the crisp midday sparkle of the marshes, birds are literally everywhere: a dozen species of duck including Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck, with Darters snaking between the weeds and parties of Purple Swamphens and Bronze-winged Jacanas stepping nimbly across the lily pads. The attractive White-tailed Lapwing is quite common and Pied Kingfishers should be everywhere. And when finally dusk begins to fall, the hysterical wailing of Golden Jackals, wild bugling of Sarus Cranes and chaotic honking of skeins of Bar-headed and Greylag Geese evokes a marvellous atmosphere to finish the day. If we are lucky we may dig out a handsome Greater Painted-snipe - an uncommon and extremely skulking resident.

In the surrounding woodlands, we will look for such specialities as Yellow-crowned and Indian Pygmy Woodpeckers; Dusky Eagle Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Small Minivet, Marshall's Iora, Verditer Flycatcher, Common Tailorbird, the skulking Orange-headed and Tickell's Thrushes, Oriental White-eye and the elusive Spotted Creeper - Bharatpur is one of the better places in India to find this uncommon but desirable species.

The drier parts of the park hold yet another range of species and here we may encounter Pallid Harrier, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Courser, Spotted Owlet, Common Woodshrike, White-eared Bulbul, Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks, Variable and Desert Wheatears, Isabelline Shrike, and Richard's and Long-billed Pipits. Among the many Palearctic passerine migrants present in winter, we may see restless Red-breasted Flycatchers and gorgeous Siberian Rubythroats, along with Bluethroat, Olive-backed Pipit, Citrine Wagtail, Blyth's Reed Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and any number of challenging 'little brown jobs' such as Moustached and Clamorous Reed Warblers, together with numerous Phylloscopus leaf-warblers. At its best, Bharatpur offers one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on our planet!
Two nights Bharatpur

Day 5
Leaving Bharatpur after an early breakfast, we head directly to Agra and the Taj Mahal ( a journey of about 90 minutes), so as to savour the unique atmosphere of this sublime monument to love before the crowds of tourists start to arrive. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan in everlasting memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, one's first sight of this magnificent building - constructed in the finest white marble - is truly awe-inspiring.

Once we have taken our fill of this marvel of Moghul architecture, we will check the adjacent Yamuna River, where birds abound. Black Kites and Egyptian Vultures are constantly in view overhead, and along the riverbanks we may see many waders, gulls and terns including Red-wattled and River Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, Great Black-headed Gull and the smart River Tern. The nearby scrub and manicured gardens are home to Indian Grey Hornbill, Little Green Bee-eaters, Rose-ringed and huge Alexandrine Parakeets, Spotted Owlet, Brown-headed Barbet and Laughing Dove, while inquisitive little Palm Squirrels scamper about our feet in the search for tourist handouts. If we are lucky, we may watch a Laggar hunting feral pigeons above the city.

Another ninety-minute drive will carry us from Agra to our next stop, Chambal Safari Lodge. Situated next to the National Chambal Sanctuary, this pristine stretch of the Chambal River supports a rich and varied ecosystem - a habitat which, regrettably, is becoming increasing scarce in India's heavily populated lowlands. Fortunately, this reserve is still home to many of these threatened species, making it one of the most important in the entire subcontinent. In November, the water levels are good, with excellent birding around the lodge and along the banks of the river. We'll spend our first afternoon at Chambal exploring the area near our hotel on foot, then take a boat trip out onto the river the following morning.

The attractive mix of farmland and dry forest that surrounds our lodge is alive with birds and home to many species typical of northern India. During the afternoon we may watch a Brown Hawk Owl peering down at us from its daytime roost, or come across an Indian Scops Owls looking for all the world like a broken branch. The cultivated fields of mustard and potatoes hold numerous wintering flocks of migratory House Sparrows, Red-headed Buntings, Rose-coloured Starlings and Tree Pipits. Nearby, the scrubby surroundings to our lodge may reveal Shikra, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Indian Peafowl, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Long-billed Pipit, Common Hawk Cuckoo, Indian Roller, Wire-tailed Swallow, Large Grey and Jungle Babblers, Black Drongo and many more.
Overnight Chambal Safari Lodge

Day 6
This morning we will take an eagerly-awaited boat safari along the pristine waters of the Chambal River, perhaps the cleanest of all India's rivers, enjoying the area's rich and varied wildlife from a different perspective. First and foremost, we will want to marvel at the flocks of Indian Skimmers that wheel and turn as they skim the surface of the river before returning to their roost on a nearby sandbar. Now sadly a difficult bird to find in India, Chambal remains one of their strongholds and we should have no difficulty in seeing this wonderful species here, marvelling at their grace and elegance as they cruise past our boat. Attractive Black-bellied and River Terns, Great Thick-knees and Bar-headed Geese are among other key species to look forward to at Chambal. Along the river we should encounter a long list of other waterbirds too - from Little and Great Cormorants to Lesser Whistling-duck and Ruddy Shelduck.

We can also expect to see the unusual Gharial (a large fish-eating crocodile with an extraordinary snout), and the huge Mugger (a crocodile with a preference for larger mammals), together with many turtles and possibly River Otters. If we are lucky, we may see the endangered Ganges River Dolphin, an increasingly rare freshwater cetacean now confined to isolated pockets along the cleaner and undisturbed sections of northern India's rivers.

Along the river banks we'll search for the pallid Sand Lark in the flocks of Short-toed Larks, and watch wintering Desert and Variable Wheatears. Wintering waders are likely to include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Little and Temminck's Stints, and Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers. Grey-throated Martins wheel overhead as we check the skies for Osprey and Long-legged Buzzard, and possibly even Bonelli's Eagles attending their nest.

This is such a delightful location that it will be difficult to tear ourselves away. Before we do so, however, we will enjoy a relaxed lunch at our lodge.

After lunch, we will begin the drive north to Corbett National Park. As we cross the vast Gangetic plain, we will watch a kaleidoscope of everyday Indian life unfold before us in a myriad of colours. This is a real travel experience and we should witness some amazing sights along the way. Our journey will take up much of the afternoon and early evening, although we shall make occasions stops along the way - perhaps to watch a White-eyed Buzzard or a flock of Indian White-backed Vultures. Once abundant, the latter is sadly now an extremely rare and erratic sight throughout the subcontinent.

On arrival at this evening, we are sure to appreciate the luxury of a hot shower and delicious dinner at the delightful Unchagaon Fort, just a short drive from the holy River Ganges. Although staying here adds a bit extra to the overall cost of the tour, we feel that participants will find this routing far more enjoyable and preferable than having to endure a long drive back to Delhi, followed by an all night journey aboard a second-class sleeper train and a further drive to reach Corbett next day that would otherwise be necessary.
Overnight Unchagaon Fort

Days 7 - 10
After enjoying a leisurely breakfast at Unchagaon, we continue north this morning. We will plan to reach our next hotel at Kumeria, on the doorstep of India's oldest and finest national park, Corbett, just in time for lunch.

Extending over 520 square kilometres, Corbett is simply vast! This classic tract of wild India has a special beauty that is vividly described in The Maneaters of Kumaon and other books by Jim Corbett, after whom the park is named. Accommodation within the park itself is extremely limited and to make the most of our four-night stay here we shall spend two nights at a hotel on the edge of the park, followed by two nights at Dhikala Lodge, right at the very heart of this magnificent reserve. In addition to providing unsurpassed birding and wildlife opportunities, the standard of guest accommodation at Dhikala has recently been upgraded and is now much improved.

The forested foothills of Corbett National Park are home to over 400 bird species as well as a healthy population of mammals, including Tiger, Leopard, Asian Elephant, deer including Sambar and Chital, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Sloth Bear, the striking and diurnal Yellow-throated Marten, Indian Crested Porcupine, and both Terai Grey Langur and Rhesus Macaque. At the centre of the park lies Ramganga Lake and its surrounding grasslands, which form a haven for wildlife. Good numbers of the larger mammals are also attracted to this stunningly beautiful lake.

From our accommodations, we can explore the fringes of Corbett's magnificent Sal forests and search for some of the park's shyer and more elusive birds such as White-tailed Rubythroat, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Aberrant Bush Warbler. Parties of maniacal White-crested Laughingthrushes crash through the undergrowth while, over our heads, the diminutive Collared Falconet hunts small birds. We may find a Brown Fish Owl roosting by a quiet stream, or even come across its larger relative, the huge Tawny Fish Owl. Along the Kosi River, impressive Crested Kingfishers pause and dive in search of an unfortunate fish; Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts flit over the boulders, often joined by dapper Spotted and Little Forktails and plump Brown Dippers. With luck, we should find the exquisite Wallcreeper foraging along the cliffs or even amongst the boulders of the riverbed itself. In 2008, for the first time in five years, a few Ibisbills returned to winter along the Kosi River and our last group enjoyed outstanding views of this mysterious shorebird, a beautiful visitor from the high mountains of Central Asia and the Tibetan plateau. We hope to be lucky again this time!

But we can only venture into the depths of the jungle by jeep! As we enter the gloomy forests, the stillness may be broken by the raucous bugle of an advertising Indian Peafowl, or the barking alarm call of a nervous Chital alerting us to the possibility of a Tiger! Within the park, we are likely to encounter small parties of handsome Kalij Pheasant and Red Junglefowl as they scurry from the roadside at the approach of our vehicles. Our time here will pass all too quickly as we discover much of what makes Corbett so special. Exciting birds such as Pallas's Fish Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Plum-headed Parakeet, Common Hawk-cuckoo and Crested Treeswift are widespread residents. The elusive Nepal Wren-babbler can often be lured to the roadside, where it may put on an outstanding 'one-bird' show - often in full view from our jeeps - whilst 'waves' of restless babblers, minivets, bulbuls, woodshrikes, woodpeckers, warblers and many wintering Palearctic migrants are sure to make this a most exciting stay.

The grasslands at Dhikala overlook the attractive Ramganga Lake. As the eerie, skeletal forms of drowned trees emerge from the morning mists to reveal their attendant raptors, darters and egrets, some of the birds we may encounter here include Black Stork, Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagles, Black Francolin, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Lesser Coucal, Slaty-headed and Red-breasted Parakeets, Himalayan Swiftlet, Jungle Owlet and Blue-bearded Bee-eater, the latter with its gruff, barking call sounding quite unlike any bee-eater you have heard before! We shall also watch Oriental Pied and the huge Great Hornbill, along with Lineated, Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Streak-throated, Grey-faced, Fulvous-breasted and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers, Large Woodshrike, Large Cuckooshrike, Small Minivet, Common Iora, Black-crested and Ashy Bulbuls, Yellow-eyed Babblers, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail, Tickell's Leaf and Smoky Warblers, Indian Robin and Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches.

If we are very fortunate, we may find the much sought-after Hodgson's Bushchat, perching on the taller grass near the lake - we were lucky last time. Almost a third larger than the familiar Stonechat, this increasingly rare and declining chat is a winter visitor here from its breeding grounds in western Mongolia, and in recent years has become one of Corbett's star avian attractions. Indeed, Corbett's grasslands are probably now the easiest site on our planet at which to observe them, and our drivers will often know the best places in which to seek them out.
Two nights Quality Inn (Kumeria), two nights Dhikala Lodge, Corbett National Park.

Day 11
After enjoying some final birding at Corbett, we will climb slowly (by bus!) into the foothills of the western Himalayas, birding as we go amid some splendidly scenic countryside. As we ascend, the vegetation gradually changes from dry deciduous forest to light coniferous woodland, introducing us to yet another fascinating and equally diverse avifauna. Wallcreeper, Spotted and Little Forktails and Crested Bunting are among possibilities today before we arrive at our next hotel in the picturesque lakeside town of Nainital, at the start of an exciting three-night stay.

Now somewhat jaded, this famous 'hill station' was once the summer home for the British ruling establishment during the days of the Raj, providing a refreshing, cool retreat from the oppressive pre-monsoon heat of the Indian plains. Nainital is also home to a surprisingly diverse selection of hill birds, many unique to the western Himalayas. Even within this well-wooded town, we are likely to encounter many of the commoner foothill species and the likes of Bar-winged Flycatchershrike, Black Bulbul, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Spot-winged, Black-lored and Black-throated Tits, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Buff-barred and Ashy-throated Warblers, Himalayan Bluetail, Olive-backed Pipit, Blue-capped and Blue-fronted Redstarts and the shy Slaty-blue Flycatcher await.

On a clear day, the view from the pine-clad ridges above Nainital is nothing short of breathtaking! Gazing out across the snow-capped giants towards China and Tibet, we may just be able to see the crest of Nanda Devi, at 7816m, India's highest peak.
Overnight Nainital

Days 12 - 13
We have two full days to enjoy the outstanding birding around the hill station of Nainital. Situated at an elevation of nearly 2000m, and surrounded by peaks that rise to over 2600m, this popular mountain resort offers spectacular vistas - and a bird list to match! Here in the western Himalayas, the climate is cooler and drier than in the forests that lie to the east in Nepal and Bhutan and, because of their more northerly latitude, are home to many species that occur here but no further to the east. The birdlife here is also very different to Corbett and the lowland plains.

We will travel out each day to visit the best birding locations: Sat Tal, Mongoli Valley and the Kilbury Road beyond Snow View, each with its own special birds. During our stay at Nainital, Himalayan Griffon, Great Barbet, Striated, Streaked and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Black-throated and Rufous-breasted Accentors, Golden Bush Robin and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker are just a few of the many highlights amongst an impressive list of upland species we hope to see.

Visits to Sat Tal and the Mongoli Valley should produce these and many other delights too, with Brown-fronted Woodpecker, White-tailed Rubythroat, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Black-headed Jay, Pink-browed Rosefinch and White-capped Bunting among many to look forward to. By imitating the monotonous call of the endearing Collared Owlet, we can often attract small flocks of passerines, intent on mobbing their number one avian predator. With luck, the owl itself may appear, being mobbed by a crowd of angry tits and warblers! Other highlights may include a wintering Chestnut Thrush feeding in a darkened gully or the discovery of a wintering flock of Altai Accentors foraging on a roadside slope. There really is so much to see here and our time here should provide a most enjoyable and relaxing finale to this wonderful region.
Two nights Nainital

Day 14
Leaving Nainital this morning, we drive back down to the Gangetic plain and make our way slowly back to Delhi. We will pause along the way to watch and photograph aspects of unhurried village life. Reaching the mighty River Ganges, we will reflect that this is revered as holy by Hindus, and is the site of innumerable cremations. We have a further chance to possibly catch a glimpse of the elusive Ganges River Dolphin in its murky waters, or perhaps to watch a flock of Indian Skimmers roosting on a sand bar - though such sights are now, sadly, becoming increasingly infrequent. Although we shall enjoy some birdwatching today, this is mainly a day for travelling, with time to sit back and enjoy the bustling Indian countryside and to reflect upon the vivid memories and rich experiences of a wonderful holiday.

The road from the Ganges to Delhi is now dual carriageway, greatly cutting journey times nowadays, and we should enjoy a comfortable return into the city. Early evening arrival in Delhi, where we transfer to an airport hotel for dinner. We also have the use of day rooms here to refresh and repack tonight ahead of our transfer back to the airport for our flight home.

Day 15
Our flight home departs Delhi early on the morning of Day 15, with arrival back in London later the same day, where our tour concludes.

Accommodation: We use a mixture of comfortable tourist hotels and simple but best available lodges, all rooms with en suite facilities.

Meals: All included in the price. Breakfasts and dinners usually taken at the hotels and lodges. Lunches will be picnics or sit-down meals, according to location.

Walking: Easy. As one would expect, however, there are a few moderate uphill walks in the mountains at Nainital. Here we will be birding up to an altitude of approx. 2500m (8000ft). Owing to the presence of large mammals at Corbett, note that some of our birding here must be done from the vehicle - or elephant-back. Comfy walking shoes or lightweight boots with corrugated soles for grip recommended.

Weather: We visit during the 'cool season', when most days around Delhi and Bharatpur are usually warm-hot, dry and sunny. In Delhi, average November temperatures range from 8-29oC, but it can feel chilly at night. Note that in the mountains at Nainital, it can be really cold (especially at night and in the early mornings and evenings), but quite warm during the day. We recommend that you wear layers of warm clothes that are easily removed, while a hat, gloves and scarf will be required in the early mornings.

Flights: We use the scheduled services of British Airways, Emirates or similar, from London to Delhi.

Transport: Travel by coach or minibus (depending on final group size). Excursions into Bharatpur are by bicycle-rickshaw or on foot, as vehicles are not permitted to enter the reserve. In Corbett National Park, we travel by 4WD vehicle - or even riding on elephant-back (subject to availability and programme).

Boat Trip: The boat safari on the Chambal River lasts about 2-3 hours.

Photos: Good opportunistic photographic opportunities - birds, mammals, scenic and cultural.

Principal Leader: Peter Kennerley

Numbers: Max. 14 clients


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