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Lying 600 miles away from the continent of South America, the remote isles of the Galapagos have played a central role in the history of man's ideas. Named "The Enchanted Isles" by the first sailors because of the mist that often hid them from sight, they have had a long history as a haven for both explorers and pirates. However, it was Charles Darwin's observations of the relationships between the islands' species, inspiring one of the most revolutionary of scientific theories, that ultimately caused the human species to look at itself quite differently.
Today the scientific value of these isles in providing a natural laboratory of ecology and evolution is probably greater than ever. The Galapagos Islands are one of the most remarkable wildlife sites in the world. As well as their twenty-six endemic bird species and amazing seabird colonies, they have many unique creatures, including Giant Tortoises and Marine Iguanas. Formed by volcanic action, never joined to any continent, and still very isolated, these islands display a classic evolutionary history. Colonisation, almost at random, followed by the evolution of the few colonising species into a variety of often strangely adapted forms, has produced an incredibly distinct and characteristic assemblage of life forms. The islands today form a fascinating but fragile evolutionary laboratory, and are still the subject of intense biological study. But it is probably the tameness and abundance of the birds and other wildlife that make the Galapagos uniquely attractive to anyone with an interest in the natural world.
Their position in the cold Humboldt current flowing north from the Antarctic and bringing nutrients to the surface, make the surrounding waters rich in fish and plankton, and account for the huge numbers of seabirds here. The underwater world is no less fascinating, and although the water can be surprisingly cool, there will be several chances to snorkel over the reefs and submerged volcanoes around the Galapagos shores, looking at the enormous diversity of fish, including huge Manta Rays, sharks (including Scalloped Hammerhead), as well as turtles and some of the other abundant marine life.
To get the best out of our visit, we're opting to cruise around the islands on a small luxury motor-yacht, the Beluga. With just 16 passengers in double cabins, each equipped with private facilities, the yacht is fully air-conditioned (lovely when you come back in for lunch!) and has a nine-man crew. It is a longer boat than most of its class, and there is plenty of deck space for watching seabirds and marine life, also providing superb photographic opportunities. It is also one of the fastest, meaning less time spent travelling between the islands. Smaller yachts have much more flexibility than the larger vessels, and we'll be able to enjoy a really top quality experience during our voyage through the islands. Landings - some wet, some dry - will be made from small open 'pangas' or dinghies.
Our extension takes us to the cloud forests and high altitude páramo of the Andes, for a feast of birdwatching, where we search for some fabulous birds including Andean Cock-of-the Rock, Andean Condor, Sword-billed Hummingbird and Torrent Ducks! Please note that we can also quote for tailor-made extensions and itineraries in Ecuador.
Itinerary
Day 1
We take a scheduled flight from London to Quito, arriving in the evening.
Overnight Quito
Days 2 - 8
We take a morning flight from Quito to the small island of Baltra in the Galapagos, where we board Beluga, our boat that is to be our home for the next seven days. Where we go depends on the weather, but a provisional itinerary should proceed as follows:
After we meet our local guide and the crew, we set sail from Baltra to the north-west shore of Santa Cruz island for our first landing. Here we'll see our first Darwin's Finches amongst the palo santo trees and opuntia cacti, and we'll look at some small lagoons which may hold Greater Flamingos and migrant waders.
Next day we head to the south of Santa Cruz where we visit the small island of Santa Fe. Here there are Galapagos Sealions and Land Iguanas, with nesting Brown Pelicans. Unlike most of the islands in the Galapagos that were formed by volcanic eruptions, Santa Fe was formed by an uplift caused by tectonic activity. This means that the island does not have the typical cone shape. Santa Fe has one of the most beautiful coves of all the visitor sites in the region - a turquoise lagoon protected by a peninsula of rocks and small islands that extends from the shore.
The well-known Land Iguanas here can grow over five feet long. The Santa Fe species of iguana are bright yellow and have uncommonly large spikes on their spine. In true Galapagos style the Opuntia cactus, their favorite food, has responded by growing tall and woody - up to 33 feet high and are the largest of their kind in the Galapagos. Manta rays and sea turtles flit by as dark shadows against the sandy bottom of Santa Fe's beautiful anchorage. There will be a chance of swimming and snorkeling here.
In the afternoon we continue to South Plaza island, which has one of the largest populations of land iguanas in the Galapagos. South Plaza is also home to marine iguanas living along the coast and a unique hybrid between the two - a possible new species evolving! As the walk continues along the sea cliffs Swallow-tailed Gull, Magnificent Frigatebird, Audubon's Shearwater, Red-billed Tropicbird, Brown Pelican and both Blue-footed and Nazca Boobies are frequently seen. Bachelor Galapagos Sealions are also regularly basking along the shore.
We then head east to San Cristobal, first visiting Punta Pitt on the north-east tip of the island. This is a superb area for volcanic tuff formations, and all three booby species: Blue-footed, Nazca and Red-footed Boobies can be seen together, as well as both Magnificent and Great Frigatebirds. Along the coast, Isla Lobos is an excellent snorkelling site and home to both Galapagos and California Sealions, while Blue-footed Boobies nest nearby.
As next day dawns we'll find ourselves off Española whose remote location has given it a large number of endemic creatures. These include a distinctive purple subspecies of Marine Iguana and Hood Mockingbird which have no fear of man and frequently land on visitors' heads and shoulders searching for food. However the star attraction here is the Waved Albatross. The island's steep cliffs serve as the perfect launching pads for these large birds which remain on Española until December when the chick is fully grown.
Geologically Española is a classic example of a shield volcano, created from a single caldera in the center of the island. Over the years as the island has moved further away from the 'hot spot', the volcano became extinct and erosion began to occur.
Gardner Bay, located on the northeastern portion of the island, offers a magnificent long, white sandy beach, where colonies of sea lions laze in the sun, sea turtles swim offshore, and inquisitive mockingbirds boldly investigate. The beach is considered an open area where you are free to explore.
Snorkeling at Gardner Bay can be fantastic. This is often your first chance to swim with the Sea Lions and is an opportunity not to be missed. Further out towards Tortuga Rock and Gardner Island, schools of large colorful tropical fish including yellow tailed surgeon fish, king angelfish and bump-head parrot fish, swim along with an occasional manta ray gliding by and white-tipped sharks napping on the bottom.
Santa Cruz is one of the oldest islands, with lush vegetation in the highlands. We travel up to the brim of an extinct volcano to look for a number of landbird specialities, including the dashing Vermilion Flycatcher and Cactus Finch. We also visit some of the local farms. This is the best place for Giant Tortoises, often seen grazing alongside cattle at this time of year, and much endemic flora. Back down at Puerto Ayora, the main Galapagos town, we'll visit the Charles Darwin Research Station for a look at their captive breeding programme.
We cross to Santiago, or James Island. The volcanic lava cones of James Island have some good surrounding rock pools, alive with the orange and yellow Sally Lightfoot Crabs, but it is the Galapagos Fur Seal that is the main wildlife attraction here together with some recent lava flows. Here it is possible to go swimming or snorkelling, sometimes in the company of Pacific Green Turtles!
In the afternoon we visit Sullivan Bay, the site of an eruption in the early 1900's with fascinating 'pahoehoe' or rope-lava bearing the impressions of trees caught by the eruption. In the nearly 100 year since the Sullivan Bay flow only a few plants have managed to take root in this harsh environment. On the shoreline Galapagos Penguins can sometimes be seen.
Overnight we'll make the long crossing north to Genovesa, an eroded flat volcanic island with a harbour in the submerged caldera. At Darwin Bay the steep cliffs dominate the island. Arguably the best seabird colony in the whole of the Galapagos, the area is thronged with thousands of magnificent Frigatebirds, Red-footed Boobies, noddies, and tropicbirds. The endemic Lava Gulls can also be found here alongside Wedge-rumped Storm-petrels, and, true to Galapagos' unique style, they are active by day!
Seven nights Galapagos cruise
Day 9
We bid our farewells to the Enchanted Isles, and fly back to Quito. There should be time for a short city tour, before our farewell dinner at one of the city's fine Ecuadorian restaurants.
Overnight Quito
Day 10
There is a chance to shop for local crafts near the hotel before departure to the airport after lunch. We depart on a scheduled flight returning to London, arriving on Day 11.
Ecuador Cloudforest extension
Superb birdwatching in the Andean Cloud-forests
Days 10 - 12
Instead of flying home we drive north and head straight over the crest of the western Andes, stopping for lunch in temperate forest with a wonderful array of hummingbirds and tanagers amongst others. We continue down to the subtropical forest at about 1,200m. We continue to our lodge near Mindo where we get our first taste of the mixed flocks dominated by exquisitely-coloured tanagers. The forest here holds toucans, cotingas, hummingbirds, parrots, the startlingly-coloured Toucan Barbet, Golden-headed Quetzal and many more Neotropical gems. Favourites in the past have included two superb toucan species: delectable Pale-mandibled Aracari and the very local Plate-billed Mountain Toucan.
One morning we rise early to look for one of Ecuador's most sought-after and yet most elusive species, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. These incredible scarlet-orange creatures must surely be one of the world's most beautiful birds. We'll spend the rest of the day birdwatching amidst the superb cloud forest here. Next day we drive to a lower altitude for a new range of forest specialities.
Three nights Mindo
Day 13
We drive south and then east over the high Andes, with time to look for the impressive Giant Hummingbird, and across the Papallacta pass. If the weather is on our side, we have a chance to see Andean Condors in a magnificent setting, together with a few high altitude specialities, including Tawny Antpitta, Andean Tit-spinetail and White-chinned Thistletail. Other species here at around 4,000m include Paramo Ground-Tyrant, and if conditions allow us to go off-road, the very local Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. We spend one night at Guango, a small lodge with outstanding hummingbird feeders.
Overnight Guango Lodge
Days 14 -15
After a morning walk in the lodge grounds, we descend the eastern slopes of the Andes to Hacienda San Isidro. This is situated in a lovely valley near Cosanga surrounded by forest-covered ridges, and we should encounter our first cloud-forest eastern slope specialities, including Highland Motmot, Inca Jay and numerous flycatchers and tanagers. This is a superb birdwatching area, and we make it our base for a two-night stay.
Nearby rivers cascading down from the Andes are host to superb Torrent Ducks and Sunbittern, while the surrounding forests hold toucans, antbirds, warblers, thrushes and vireos galore. If time allows we have the option of driving down to more lowland forest for a further range of species.
Two nights San Isidro Lodge
Day 16
After a final morning's birdwatching at San Isidro, we head back over the Papallacta pass, pausing again if we have time and then into Quito for our final night's stay.
Overnight Quito
Day 17
There is a chance to shop for local crafts near the hotel before departure to the airport after lunch. We depart on a scheduled flight returning to London, arriving on Day 18.
Accommodation: In Ecuador we stay in hotels and lodges with en suite facilities throughout. On the Galapagos cruise we use the Beluga, a 16-berth motor vessel, with twin en suite cabins. Single cabins may be available subject to availability.
Transport: in Ecuador we travel by bus (or minibus) with local driver.
Walking: Mostly easy walks; the going is moderate at times in the Andes, but always taken at a slow pace.
Numbers: Max. 15 clients
Wild Ambitions:
Tailor-made Galapagos holidays
Our sister company, Wild Ambitions, can provide tailor-made Galapagos holidays at almost any time of the year - please contact us to discuss details and prices.
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