Andalucía
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Price: £ 1,495
The price is per person, and is fully inclusive of return flights London-Seville/Jerez (depending on schedules), all accommodation, meals, surface transport, tips, airport taxes, map, bird checklist and services of the leader(s).
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The southbound migration of thousands of birds of prey and storks across the Strait of Gibraltar each autumn has long been recognised as one of Europe's greatest avian spectacles. The narrow stretch of water between the sierras of southernmost Andalucia and the coast of North Africa provides the shortest crossing over the Mediterranean, with the result that huge numbers of migratory soaring birds flock here every September. Our tour will visit the best raptor watchpoints around Tarifa, with spectacular views across to the mountains of Morocco.
When conditions are right, parties of Black Kites begin to gather in search of the morning's first thermals, rising up over the wooded slopes of the coastal sierras. Anticipation grows as the first dots appear in the distance, gradually metamorphosing into an assortment of different shapes and sizes, now discernible as birds of prey. Soon they are with us; at times, some passing so close we can even see the 'expression' on their faces! Eurasian Griffon, Egyptian Vultures, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Marsh and Montagu's Harriers, Honey Buzzards, Sparrowhawks... gathering together in readiness for the crossing to Morocco. With them come clouds of White Storks and often a sprinkling of scarcer Black Storks, all seeking to gain height before streaming out across the Strait. Each day will of course be different as the presence of raptors depends very much on the prevailing winds. On days when the winds are not right, however, there is much to see elsewhere in this lovely corner of Spain. Black-winged Stilt, Hoopoe and Sardinian Warbler are among many classic Mediterranean species to try for and we might also be lucky to find some of the region's more localised specialities: Bonelli's Eagle, Black-winged Kite, Audouin's Gull, Calandra Lark, and White-rumped and Little Swifts. But all this is to come! For our tour begins to the north of Cadiz, with a three-night stay beside Spain's most illustrious national park, the Coto Doñana. Purple Swamphens clamber about the reeds and troops of exotic Azure-winged Magpies roam through the pines, while the wetlands at Huelva, on the northern fringe of the park, host migrant waders and terns as well as resident specialities such as Greater Flamingo and White-headed Duck. In September, large numbers of passerine migrants pass through too, including virtually all the Pied Flycatchers in Europe! Stephen Daly lives at Barbate, just along the coast from Tarifa. His intimate local knowledge of the often fickle winds and weather patterns around The Strait of Gibraltar during raptor migration will prove invaluable on this exciting autumn tour. Itinerary Day 1 We take a direct flight from London to Seville, where Stephen will be waiting to welcome us. From here we drive to our first hotel at El Rocío, a small village right beside the Coto Doñana National Park, which will be our base for a three-night stay. Overnight El Rocío Days 2 - 3 The extraordinary village of El Rocío preserves its own unique appearance and character. The wide sandy streets are lined with white houses, many of them ornately decorated by the religious brotherhoods from surrounding villages that come here at pilgrimage time - and when the Romeria del Rocío festival attracts up to one million people each year! Indeed, El Rocío seems more reminiscent of old Mexico or the 'wild West' than somewhere in Spain: the main form of transport is still horseback, with hitching rails provided outside the bars, shops and private houses. In the evenings, riders pause outside the bars to sip sherry and chat on horseback, while Pallid Swifts and Red-rumped Swallows wheel about overhead. In early autumn, ancient olive trees in the village squares are attractive to a variety of warblers and flycatchers, the likes of Melodious, Western Bonelli's and Subalpine Warblers, and Pied and Spotted Flycatchers often giving superb views as they feed out in the open. Our hotel overlooks one of the Coto's most famous lagoons, the 'Madre de las Marismas', which lures passing birds even when dry (as it often is come September). Yellow Wagtails of various races feed out on the marsh, often alongside parties of waders, and the nearby reedbeds are well worth checking for migrants. After the long, hot Spanish summer, standing water can be hard to find within the park - or indeed anywhere in southern Spain! But the visitor centres often retain flooded pools nearby, as do the region's fish ponds and rice paddies. Greater Flamingo, Glossy Ibis and Spoonbill can usually be found, with an excellent variety of herons, egrets, waterfowl and waders too. Passerine migrants can include Bluethroat, feeding at the base of the reeds. Fallow Deer are numerous, and Red Deer stags are looking at their most impressive now at the start of the rutting season, and may be heard roaring in the early mornings. The star mammal at Doñana is the Iberian Lynx, in one of its only two remaining strongholds. Although the chances of actually seeing this ultra-rare cat are very slim, early in the day we may be lucky to spot fresh tracks in the sand. As the air temperature increases, so raptors become more noticeable. In September, these can include Red Kite, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Lesser Kestrel and, with any luck, one of the rarest raptors in the world, Spanish Imperial Eagle. On the ground below, the Coto's parched, open saltings can appear pretty lifeless at this season but are nonetheless worth a look for elusive but localized specialities such as Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Short-toed, Lesser Short-toed and Calandra Larks, and Spectacled Warbler. We'll visit one of the old hunting lodges, with its excellent displays about life in the Coto de Doñana, and explore the surrounding pine woods and cork oak groves. Flocks of dramatic Azure-winged Magpies work through the lower branches, checking for scraps left behind at picnic tables, while small birds including Crested Tit, Firecrest and distinctive grey Iberian race of Long-tailed Tit flitter through the canopy, and furtive Sardinian and Dartford Warblers scold us from the scrubby undergrowth. If the Coto is dry, we'll head west to Huelva where dockyards form an unlikely backdrop to some superb wetland birdwatching. Here can be found migrant waders galore, with Caspian Tern and Slender-billed Gull joining them on the saltings. Freshwater pools can harbour both Common and the very rare Red-knobbed Coot, and the endangered White-headed Duck also occurs, its stiff, upstanding tail making it easy to spot amongst throngs of resting wildfowl. Graceful Black and Whiskered Terns can be numerous over the water in early autumn, while Squacco Herons and Purple Swamphens stalk the edges of the reedbeds. Two nights El Rocío Day 4 After our three-night stay at Doñana, we head south into the drier and more mountainous coastal region around Tarifa. Forming one of the great migration corridors of Europe, huge numbers of birds - but most notably raptors and storks - gather here to take advantage of the narrowest crossing over the Strait of Gibraltar into Africa. Situated well away from the infamous costas, on Spain's less-developed Atlantic coast, Tarifa will be our base for four nights. If it still has water, along the way we may call in at the important wetland of Laguna de Medina, where we have another chance to find White-headed Duck among numerous other species. Little Owls squat in the shade, Corn Buntings jangle in the heat of the day and Cetti's Warblers skulk in the densest cover, only to give themselves away with a sudden outburst of song. As we near Tarifa in the late afternoon, our eyes will turn skyward as we scan eagerly for our first 'kettles' of raptors and storks gathering in readiness to cross the Strait to Morocco. Overnight Tarifa Days 5 -7 Our itinerary in this delightful and varied corner of Andalucia will remain flexible so as to take optimal advantage of the prevailing weather. If conditions are right, we'll make raptor-watching a priority, ensuring we are in position to witness peak passage of the day's crop of southbound migrants. With a westerly edge to the wind, we will want to be in the Gibraltar area, where the spectacular slopes of the craggy Rock itself offer an impressive backdrop to our viewing. If the winds have an easterly origin, however, birds of prey will be pushed further west and we'll then station ourselves in the hills between the ports of Algeciras and Tarifa, so as to get the best possible views. From mighty Eurasian Griffons to slimline Montagu's Harriers and dashing Hobbies, this is the best time for diversity and we shall never tire of the fascinating spectacle that unfolds before us. As they seek to gain height in preparation for the crossing from Europe to the mountains of North Africa, birds of prey may suddenly appear low over our heads - sometimes even at eye level, affording unusually close views as they hunt the next thermal that will give them lift. As we watch and wait, there are other attractions here too, with tetchy Sardinian Warblers and migrants such as Hoopoe and Redstart in the low scrub. We'll combine our watches over the Strait with an exploration of the wide range of other habitats in the surrounding countryside. Picturesque wooded valleys cut through the low limestone sierras, clothed in dense stands of Evergreen Oak and set amidst more open slopes of sheep-grazed turf and scrub. Birds of prey are again the stars, with a sizeable resident population of Eurasian Griffons, plus good chances of Bonelli's and Golden Eagles, Goshawk and Common Buzzard, while Hobbies and Short-toed Eagles drift lazily through on passage. By comparison, the Crag Martins that swirl about the towering limestone bluffs appear minuscule as we check the steady stream of southbound 'hirundines' for scarcer species such as Red-rumped Swallow and the high-flying Alpine Swift. Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Crested Tit and Hawfinch are among resident woodland species to look for, while the open slopes afford wonderful panoramic views as we scan for the likes of Woodlark, Black Redstart, Stonechat and Cirl Bunting. Add the prospect of Thekla Lark, Blue Rock Thrush and a wide range of possible migrants which could be present at this time of year and we are assured of an exciting few days! Stephen's intimate knowledge of 'his own backyard' should pay dividends in our quest for the highly localised Black-winged Kite, along with two more essentially African species that have established a toe-hold in southern Europe in Iberia: White-rumped and (more recently) Little Swifts. A little to the northwest of Tarifa, lies the vast flat plain of La Janda. Once a vast, seasonally flooded lagoon where Common Cranes and other wetland birds bred in abundance, the area is now mostly under agriculture. Nonetheless, it is still an important habitat for birds, the broad sweep of fields set amidst a network of canals and reedy dykes harbouring an array of species. We shall watch for White Stork, Southern Grey Shrike and Calandra Lark, as migrating Marsh and Montagu's Harriers sail lazily across the fields. Our last group also came across a wandering Spanish Imperial Eagle here! Not far from La Janda, the port of Barbate offers a suite of different habitats. The extensive salt pans are much liked by Little Egrets, Avocets and Black-winged Stilts, as well as Gull-billed, Caspian and Little Terns. Zitting Cisticolas (Fan-tailed Warbler in old money) 'zip' incessantly as we check the lagoons and tidal mud for passage waders such as Whimbrel, Knot and Curlew Sandpiper. We might even encounter the wacky looking Northern Bald Ibis, a small population of which has recently been re-introduced into this corner of Spain in a bid to bolster the beleaguered wild population in southern Morocco. Tarifa Beach is a fine sweeping bay of golden sand. Yet, surprisingly at this time of year, it can often be almost devoid of people. A freshwater outlet running across the sands attracts a regular gathering of gulls. Amongst the numerous Yellow-legged Gulls we should find a handful of 'clean-looking' Audouin's Gulls, together with various terns - which in September could even include the rare Lesser Crested Tern. Sanderlings scamper along the tideline as Ringed and Grey Plovers mingle with the resident Kentish Plovers, and the dunes and damp hollows behind are good places to look for Crested Larks and migrant Yellow Wagtails. Time permitting, and given a stiff on-shore breeze, sea-watching from Tarifa can also be rewarding. In September, birds moving along the coast at this 'gateway' to the Mediterranean include Balearic and the scarcer Cory's Shearwaters, Gannet, Common Scoter and skuas. Three Nights Tarifa Day 8 After breakfast, we bid a reluctant farewell to Stephen's enviable 'home patch' and travel back west, returning to either Seville or Jerez (according to airline schedules) for our flight back to London. Accommodation: Three nights at the charming and traditional 2-star Hotel Toruño in El Rocío, with views overlooking the Coto, followed by four nights at La Codorniz ('the Quail'), a comfortable 3-star hotel near Tarifa, well-known for its Andalusian-style restaurant and excellent swimming pool. Our groups have been using both hotels for a number of years now and their locations are just perfect for our tour. All rooms en suite. Meals: All included in the price. Breakfast and dinner at the hotels. Lunches may be taken at a local venta or as picnics in the field. Walking: Easy. Short walks, interspersed with periods sitting watching and waiting for migrating birds of prey and storks at the Strait. Comfy walking shoes recommended (if dry, trainers will often suffice). Numbers: Max. 12 clients |
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