This bird-filled short break begins with a direct flight from London to Gibraltar. This may seem strange until one realises that the flight schedules there are currently infinitely better than those into Seville, enabling us not only to settle in at our hotel in good time for dinner on day one, but affording us an opportunity to enjoy some excellent birding en route that wouldn't otherwise be possible on both the arrival and departure days.
The first half of September sees the peak of the annual migration of birds of prey and storks over the Strait of Gibraltar. As we make our way north along good roads towards Cadiz, we'll keep a keen eye open for flocks of soaring birds over the rugged hills and coast. Large numbers of Eurasian Griffons, Egyptian Vultures, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Western Marsh and Montagu's Harriers, European Honey Buzzards and others congregate here in readiness for the crossing to Morocco. We should have opportunities to witness this exciting spectacle on both the first and last days of our tour.
But we are headed for a four-night stay beside Spain's most illustrious national park, the Coto Doñana. Here we stay at a small hotel in the remarkable village of El Rocío, which lies at the western edge of the Park. Even today its wide sandy streets, lined with wooden hitching rails for horses, elegant white-washed buildings and quite magnificent church engender a distinctly 'Wild West' feel. It's the perfect location for our break, as we get to grips with the abundance of birds and other wildlife that this immense national park has to offer.
Incongruous Purple Swamphens clamber about the reeds on plasticine-red legs as Booted Eagles hang on the breeze overhead, furtive Marbled Ducks tuck themselves away on quiet lagoons and troops of exotic-looking Azure-winged Magpies roam through the pines - ever-watchful for visitors' leftovers on the picnic tables. In autumn, the wetlands at Huelva, on the northern fringe of the park, attract migrant waders and terns in abundance, along with resident specialities such as Greater Flamingo and the rare White-headed Duck. September also brings large numbers of passerine migrants, including virtually all the Pied Flycatchers in Europe!
Our guide Stephen Daly lives near Barbate, in southernmost Andalucia, speaks fluent Spanish (of course!) and knows this whole region and its birds with an intimacy few can match.
Note: this trip may be booked in conjunction with our autumn '
Wings over the Strait' tour, running Sat 4-Wed 8 September 2010.
Itinerary
Day 1
We take a morning flight from London direct to Gibraltar, where Stephen will be waiting to welcome us and whisk us off, over the border into Spain.
The southbound migration of thousands of birds of prey and storks across the Strait of Gibraltar each autumn has long been recognised as one of Europe's greatest avian spectacles. The narrow stretch of water between the sierras of southernmost Andalucia and the coast of North Africa provides the shortest crossing over the Mediterranean, with the result that huge numbers of migratory soaring birds flock here every September. So as we travel north along the Atlantic coast towards Cadiz, we'll be keeping a keen eye on the skies above! At this time of year, we could see almost anything from mighty Eurasian Griffons and slimline Montagu's Harriers to menacing Black Kites and dashing Eurasian Hobbies.
There'll doubtless be lots of other distractions as we continue on towards our destination, finding it hard to resist making frequent stops for birds along the way. However, we should arrive at our comfortable hotel in the white-washed village of El Rocío in good time to enjoy dinner this evening. Set right beside the Coto Doñana National Park, El Rocío will be our base throughout this four-night break.
Overnight El Rocío
Days 2 - 4
With three full days to explore the National Park and the surrounding area, our itinerary will remain flexible so we can make optimal use of the prevailing weather, recent bird news and other local factors.
The extraordinary village of El Rocío preserves its own distinctive appearance and character. The wide sandy streets are lined with whitewashed houses, many of them ornately decorated by the religious brotherhoods from surrounding villages that come here at pilgrimage time - and when the Romeria del Rocío festival attracts up to one million people each year! Indeed, El Rocío seems more reminiscent of old Mexico than somewhere in Spain: the main form of transport is still horseback, with hitching rails provided outside the bars, shops and private houses. In the evenings, riders pause outside the bars to sip sherry and chat on horseback, while Pallid Swifts and Red-rumped Swallows wheel about overhead.
In early autumn, ancient olive trees in the village squares are attractive to a variety of migrant birds, including Melodious, Western Bonelli's and Subalpine Warblers, and Pied and Spotted Flycatchers - which can often give superb views as they feed out in the open. Our hotel overlooks one of the Coto's most famous lagoons, the 'Madre de las Marismas', which lures passing birds even when dry (as it often is come September). Yellow Wagtails of various races feed out on the marsh, often alongside small groups of waders, and the nearby reedbeds are well worth checking for migrants.
After the long, hot Spanish summer, standing water can be hard to find within the park - or indeed anywhere in southern Spain! But the visitor centres often retain flooded pools nearby, as do the region's fish ponds and rice paddies. Greater Flamingo, Glossy Ibis and Eurasian Spoonbill can usually be found, along with an excellent variety of herons, egrets, waterfowl and waders. Passerine migrants can include Bluethroat, feeding at the base of the reeds. Fallow Deer are numerous, while Red Deer stags are looking at their most impressive now at the start of the rutting season, and may be heard roaring in the early mornings. The star mammal at Doñana is the Iberian Lynx, in one of its only two remaining strongholds. Although the chances of actually seeing one are slight, early in the day we may be lucky to spot fresh tracks in the sand.
As the air temperatures increases, so raptors become more noticeable. In September, these can include Red Kite, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Lesser Kestrel and, with luck, one of the rarest raptors in the world, Spanish Imperial Eagle. Down below them, the parched fields and arid open saltings can appear pretty lifeless at this season, but nonetheless are worth a look for elusive but localized specialities such as Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Short-toed, Lesser Short-toed lark and Calandra Larks, and Spectacled Warbler.
We'll visit one of the old hunting lodges, with its excellent displays about life in the Coto de Doñana, and explore the surrounding pine woods and cork oak groves. Flocks of dramatic Azure-winged Magpies flit noisily through the lower branches, checking for scraps left behind at picnic tables, while Crested Tits, Firecrests and the distinctive grey Spanish race of Long-tailed Tit work through the upper storey, and furtive Sardinian and Dartford Warblers scold from the scrubby undergrowth.
If the Coto is dry, we'll head west from El Rocío to Huelva, where dockyards form a backdrop to some superb wetland birdwatching. Here can be found migrant waders galore, with Caspian Tern and Slender-billed Gull joining them on the saltings, while freshwater pools can harbour both Common and the very rare Red-knobbed Coot. The endangered White-headed Duck occurs nearby too, their stiff, upstanding tails making them easy to spot amongst throngs of other resting wildfowl. Graceful Black and Whiskered Terns can be numerous out over the water in autumn, as Squacco Herons and Purple Swamphens, two more local specialities, stalk the margins of the reedbeds.
Three nights El Rocío
Day 5
Leaving El Rocío after breakfast this morning, we head back south into the drier and more mountainous coastal area around Tarifa. If it still holds water, along the way we may call in at the important wetland of Laguna de Medina, where we have another chance to find White-headed Duck among numerous other species. Little Owls squat in the shade, Corn Buntings jangle in the heat of the day and Cetti's Warblers skulk in the densest cover, only to give themselves away with a sudden, unexpected outburst of song.
As we near Tarifa, our eyes will turn skyward once again as we scan eagerly for 'kettles' of raptors and storks seeking to cross the Strait to Morocco. All too soon, we ourselves must cross the border again, to Gibraltar for our own flight home... though even at the airport here we have chances to see migrating birds of prey sailing past the thrusting Rock! Evening arrival back in London, where our trip concludes.
Accommodation: We spend all four nights at a small but comfortable 3-star hotel in El Rocío, superbly situated at the western edge of the Coto Doñana National Park and with all rooms en suite.
Meals: All included in the price. Breakfast and dinner at the hotels. Lunches will either be taken at a local venta or as picnics in the field.
Walking: Short, easy walks. Comfy walking shoes recommended (if dry, trainers should suffice).
Weather: September weather is usually gloriously warm and sunny, with clear blue skies (23-28
oC); cooler evenings and nights.
Flights: We use the scheduled services of British Airways, Easyjet or similar, from London direct to Gibraltar, according to whichever has the best schedules for our tour at the time.
Photos: Raptors and wetland birds can sometimes be close enough to photograph. Good incidental opportunities.
Numbers: Max. 12 clients