TRAVELLING NATURALIST TRIP REPORT
Argentina & Chile
Sunday 7 November - Monday 22 November 2004
Iguazú Extension to Thursday 25 November 2004
Leaders:
Neil Arnold - The Travelling Naturalist
Leaders:
Luis Segura - Birding Argentina in Patagonia
Miguel Castelino - Birding Argentina in Iguazú
INTRODUCTION
Where, but in Argentina, can one see King Penguin at one end of the country and Toco Toucan at the other? The success of this holiday is undoubtedly due to a wide variety of habitats, to the skill of our local leaders, guides, drivers and boatmen, and to the good cheer and enthusiasm shown by you, the members of the group. I am grateful to all those who looked after us during the holiday but especially to my good friends, Luis and Miguel. I look forward to meeting them at the Bird Fair next year and I hope that I will meet some of you there, or on future trips.
Best wishes for the New Year.
Neil Arnold
December 2004
DIARY
SUNDAY 7 NOVEMBER
Flight to Buenos Aires
MONDAY 8 NOVEMBER
WEATHER 6/8 Cumulus, hazy sun, E 1-2
On our arrival in Buenos Aires we were met by Hernan and his 'apprentice', Diago. We then drove out of the city to Otamendi, an area of marsh, scrub and scattered trees. As we reached the outlying grasslands of the reserve there was a nasty clanking noise beneath the bus and we ground to a halt. Despite the bus being a fine, up to date, Mercedes Benz, it was completely immobilized. In the two hours that passed before a replacement vehicle arrived we watched birds in the adjacent fields and had an early lunch.
As luck would have it we had broken down in an area which was full of birdlife. A long-winged Harrier quartered the field as a Spotted Nothura called loudly from cover. Eventually the nothura showed itself and was viewed through the telescopes. We also had fine views of Crested and Chimango Caracaras, Black Vulture and American Kestrel.
Black-and-rufous Warbling-finch, Great Pampa Finch, Green-barred Wodpecker, Spectacled Tyrant and Hooded Siskin were also appreciated.
By 11.30 we were at Otamendi. We started by walking along the edge of what, in former years, had been a lake but was now open grassland with rushes and scrub. Before long we were watching a number of skulking bird species including Freckle-breasted Spinetail, Curved-billed Reedhaunter and Rufous-crowned Antshrike. Yellow-winged and Scarlet-headed Blackbirds vied with Brown and Yellow Marshbird in the bright colour stakes. Raptors were represented by Snail Kite and Roadside Hawk. Water birds included Great and Snowy Egrets, Ringed Teal, Bare-faced and White-faced Ibis and Wattled Jacana.
We then visited the lightly wooded area set on a low hill. Here we found Chicli Spinetail, Monk Parakeet and a Dusky-legged Guan. On reaching the edge of the hill we could see out over a series of lakes. Due to the distance involved we had to use the telescopes to view the birds. A pink smudge turned out to be a flock of feeding Roseate Spoonbills. There were also Yellow-billed Pintail, Black-necked Stilt, Cocoi Heron and Maguari Storks. Then we found three Black Skimmers, a real rarity in the reserve. No doubt we would have found more wetland species but our time was up.
We then sped off to Trelew, the flight arriving at 19.00. Before long we were settling into our hotel in Puerto Piramides.
TUESDAY 9 NOVEMBER
PUERTO PIRAMIDES
WEATHER 3/8 Cirrus. Sun. SW 3-7
After breakfast we set off for the Punta Delgada area. Before long we stopped in an area of Patagonian steppe, a habitat dominated by grasses, ankle-deep woody shrubs and a scattering of head-high bushes. Long-tailed Meadowlarks showed off their splendid red breasts and Rusty backed Monjita their vivid rufous backs but the ovenbirds we hoped to see were affected by the ever-increasing wind-speed. In an area of dried up mudflats, though, we encountered Two-banded Plovers, Short-billed Pipits and two Lesser Seedsnipe.
As we drove on we noted Lesser Rhea and Elegant-crested Tinamou.
Halfway through our journey to the coast we stopped on the edge of a huge saltflat in a wet area caused by the overflow from a wind pump. As soon as we arrived we were given a display of agile flight from a pair of Cinereous Harriers. We then walked around a small patch of rushes. Suddenly a South American Snipe took to the air. Then an American Painted Snipe flew up, giving a brief view. This was a really exciting find. We also discovered a Baird's Sandpiper, Speckled Teal, Austral Negrito and a Correndera Pipit: and all this in what appeared to be, at a distance, an empty field. The other delight of the morning was watching Burrowing Owls sitting outside their nesting burrows.
It was then time to get friendly with a Tarantula … well not too friendly. We saw it from the bus. We piled out to take a closer look at what transpired to be a fine male measuring about ten centimetres in length.
A short detour along the coast brought us to a clifftop from which we could view South American Sealions. Our stay was brief, however, as the high wind was blowing sand in our faces.
By mid-day we had arrived at Rincon Chico, an estancia to the south of Punta Delgada. As soon as we entered the long approach road we stopped to admire a party of Mara.
Lunch was a spectacular local meal consisting of lamb and salad washed down with a fine Argentinian red wine; 'Couchay Toro Malbec'. The lamb was split and hung on an angled metal frame in front of a wood fire. When cooked the meat was cut off in chunks and served in a metal tray, from which we helped ourselves. Delicious.
In the afternoon we drove to a sheltered beach. Here we watched some three hundred and fifty Southern Elephant Seals, including a number of huge immature males. With care we were able to walk quietly to a position in which we could sit within five metres of one of these huge animals. As we watched the seals Southern Giant Petrels flew overhead.
We drove back to the hotel with a considerable sense of wellbeing.
WEDNESDAY 10 NOVEMBER
PUERTO PIRAMIDES
WEATHER 2/8 Ci,Cu. Sun.SW1-6
We woke to find that the sun was bright and the wind light.
At 07.00 Daniel welcomed us to his boat, a large Zodiac with inboard seats. Within five minutes we were marvelling at the wonders of Southern Right Whales. We were watching a mother and calf resting quietly on the surface of the sea, a process known as 'logging'. As this was a surface activity we were unable to witness the dramatic lifting of the tail flukes associated with deep diving. After a while we moved on to another mother and calf. As we watched the mother she turned over into an inverted position, showing the white belly and the lateral fins. Apparently this situation is the result of the female denying the calf the opportunity to suckle. Seeing the whales from a small boat was a great privilege.
After breakfast we returned to the Patagonian steppe ecosystem. As the wind was still light we were able to find a number of the local song birds including Patagonian Canestero, Scaly-throated and Band-tailed Earthcreepers and Mourning Sierra Finch.
We returned to the hotel for lunch.
By early afternoon we were at Punta Piramides watching South American Sealions, South American Terns, King Cormorants and Blackish Oystercatchers. The real drama though was out at sea. A sweep with the telescope revealed at least eighteen whales. Three adults gave us a great display as they breached, some as many as three times. There was also a lone individual 'lobtailing', that is thrusting its tail stock out of the water and smashing the tail flukes down on the surface of the sea. This went on for some minutes. We found it hard to drag ourselves away.
As we drove towards Puerto Madryn we came across a pair of Red-backed (Variable) Hawks. One was circling overhead and the other was feeding three young in a stick nest on top of a concrete power pylon. We then made a brief stop at Isla de los Pajaros (Bird Island). The island holds a huge breeding colony of Kelp Gulls. Distant views were also had of two Snowy Sheathbills.
As we approached Puerto Madryn we stopped to look into a dry gully. As the bus stopped a flock of Burrowing Parrots flew round the rim of the gully. Eventually we saw twenty two birds, most in flight and some at rest. We also had good views of the splendid White-winged Black Tyrant.
THURSDAY 11 NOVEMBER
PUERTO MADRYN
WEATHER early 7/8 Cu.Sun. NE 2 afternoon NE 6-7
We made an early start on our drive to Punto Tombo. En route we noted a White-tailed Kite. Punta Tombo is a sand dune site which holds thousands of breeding Magellanic Penguins. We were soon admiring these birds as they made their way to and from the sea, brooded eggs or fed the first small young of the season. There were great photographic opportunities.
A scan of the beach revealed a number of Antarctic Skuas and a pair of Chubut Steamer Ducks.
It was then our intention to take a boat out from Ralston in search of Commerson's Dolphin; sadly the sea state made this impossible. Our disappointment was soon tempered, though, by a trip to the Trelew City tip and sewage ponds. Yes I did say tip and sewage ponds!
We were delighted to see masses of birds feeding on the ponds. Eight species of wildfowl were present, including Coscoroba Swan, Lake Duck and Cinnamon Teal. There were also three species of coot, Lesser Yellowlegs and Black-necked Stilts.
Despite the windy conditions we were also able to watch White-tufted and Silvery Grebe through the telescopes. We also had the chance to study the rather elegant Brown-hooded Gull. The endearing memory of the afternoon, though, will probably be the sight of some Four hundred Chilean Flamingos huddled together in the lee of an island.
It was a fine way to end our day.
FRIDAY 12 NOVEMBER
PUERTO MADRYN
WEATHER p.m. 7/8 Cu. Sun. NE 3
The flight to Ushuaia was uneventful.
We arrived to sunshine and a light wind. Once settled into our hotel we enjoyed its proximity to the Beagle Channel. As though the views of snow capped Chilean mountains was not enough, the shore adjacent to the hotel was rich in bird life. We were soon making the distinction between Flying and Flightless Steamer Ducks and whilst doing this discovered a white-headed steamer duck which local wisdom suggests is a Chubut Steamer Duck. We then watched Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatchers, Kelp and Dolphin Gulls, Ashy-headed and Upland Geese.
We then enjoyed a little time to ourselves, some visiting 'Up Town' Ushuaia.
SATURDAY 13 NOVEMBER
USHUAIA
WEATHER a.m. 7/8 Cu. Bright, 0. p.m. Light rain
At 08.30 we joined Marcelo, our local guide and Manolo, our driver. We were soon entering the Tierra del Fuego National Park, a huge area of forest, bog, mountains and lakes. We were to explore a tiny part of this great wildlife refuge.
Within twenty minutes we had enjoyed good views of a male Magellanic Woodpecker and a pair of Austral Pygmy Owls, two of the most sought-after bird species in the area.
We then had a coffee break in the cafe at Lago Roca. Further searching revealed Patagonian Sierra Finches, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Thorn-tailed Rayadito and White-crested Elaenia. Then an adult Andean Condor flew past, soon to be joined by another. We then spent some time watching a pair of Great Grebes build a nest.
Lunch was taken at Laguna Verde, by which time light rain was falling. Austral Blackbird and Austral Thrushes were noted, the former being an oriole, the latter a true thrush. Our next port of call was a series of American Beaver dams. The main attraction here was a Ringed Kingfisher and a Black-crowned Night Heron. We then saw two Black-faced Ibis feeding in an area of wet grassland.
By 14.00 we were at Lapataia Bay. This is the final destination of the eastern arm of the Pan-American Highway which starts in Northern Alaska. It seemed strange that this highway should end as a gravel road in a National Park. Having said that, it has to be admitted that this was a splendid scenic ending to such a great road.
At the edge of the bay we found a smart Fire-eyed Diucon and a selection of wetland species including a number of Kelp Geese. During the day we had been listening out for Magellanic Tapaculo. Eventually we heard the call and spent some time trying to see this most elusive bird. Brief glimpses were all that could be managed.
Our last venue in the park was Ensenada Bay where we visited the tiny post office, the most southerly in Argentina. Many of us emerged clutching specially stamped post cards.
Once again some of us visited Ushuaia.
SUNDAY 14 NOVEMBER
USHUAIA
WEATHER 8/8 Cu, rain, SE 2-3. By 10.15 Dry. Sunny for the rest of the day, except for a light shower at 13.30
At 09.45 we set sail in the 'Mariana 1', a small, fast catamaran. We spent the whole day in the Beagle Channel.
Before long we approached a series of islands that were breeding grounds for Rock and Imperial Shags; we also had close views of South American Sea Lions. These islands also gave shelter to steamer ducks, geese and oystercatchers. Two White-rumped Sandpipers were also noted. South American Terns were seen in large numbers. Seabirds were seen in smaller numbers than usual, no doubt due to it being an El Nino year.
As the wind was light Black-browed Albatrosses were gathered in rafts on the sea. Southern Giant Petrels were particularly scarce, there only being five records. This was also true of diving- petrels. Of the six sightings only two were specifically identified as Magellanic Diving-petrels. Only one Wilson's Storm-petrel was noted. Southern Fulmar on the other hand was more numerous than usual, there being six records. Chilean Skuas were also numerous.
By 13.00 we were at Hammer Island watching the antics of breeding Magellanic Penguins. We were also pleased to note that Gentoo Penguins had returned to breed once again. The great thrill of the trip, though, came when we found a King Penguin standing amongst the Gentoos. It was a young bird in almost full adult plumage, there being just a little downy feathering on the nape.
At 13.30 we landed at the historic settlement at Harberton. As light rain began to fall we walked to the Whale Museum where we marvelled at the very creative displays of bones which had come from cetaceans stranded on the shores of Tierra del Fuego. The cleaned bones had been reassembled and set against a silhouette of the animal. Pinnipeds (seals and sea-lions) had been treated in the same way. We were also shown the laboratories and the process of bone cleaning. We then had time to visit the only remaining patch of local forest which formed the grave yard.
On the trip back to Ushuaia we were able to relax and enjoy the sunshine. Cameras clicked constantly.
MONDAY 15 NOVEMBER
USHUAIA
WEATHER 1/8 Cu. Sun, 0
We had a leisurely start to the day. By 10.30 we were at the foot of the trail to the Martial Glacier. We were then carried up the lower slopes of the mountain on a ski lift. Black-throated Siskins and White-throated Caracara were noted en route. We then walk to the snow line. It was here that we had close views of Dark-faced and Ochre-naped Ground Tyrants. We then found a female Yellow-bridled Finch. Then, whilst walking just below the scree slope, (700 m a.s.l.) we were lucky enough to find a White-bellied Seedsnipe huddled into a grassy bank. We were able to watch this cryptic bird from a safe distance. This was a great thrill as the subtle patterning of its plumage was delightful. Once again we had found a bird which is highly sought-after by visiting birdwatchers.
After lunch at the somewhat idiosycratic 'Bar Ideal' we were able to explore the centre of the town, some of us taking advantage of Ushuaia being a duty-free zone.
By 19.00 we were in flight to El Calafate. The view of the snow covered Andes as we left Ushuaia was breathtaking.
As we drove to Estancia Alice a Patagonian Skunk crossed the road. On our arrival at the estancia we had a fine meal and fell into our beds.
TUEDAY 16 NOVEMBER
ESTANCIA ALICE
WEATHER Early 8/8 Cu. Hazy sun,0. Later 1/8 Cu. Sunny,0
Having had breakfast we walked around the wetland adjacent to our accommodation. Black-faced Ibis were breeding in the reeds and a variety of ducks, geese and swans were noted. We were also able to compare the songs and plumage of both Correndera and Hellmayr's Pipits. At 08.30 we set off for the Los Glaciares National Park. Even before we had left the estancia, though, we came across four immature Black-bellied Buzzard-Eagles. Later in the day we saw a fine adult.
Before making for the park we scanned the Lagunas Punta Dandera, finding a variety of ducks, geese, swans, coot and White-tufted Grebes.
Once we entered the park we drove slowly looking out for wildlife. We soon found Austral Parakeets. A pair of Chilean Flickers and a stately pair of Spectacled Duck were also found, much to our delight.
Lunch was taken at a restaurant close to one of the faces of the Moreno Glacier, one of the few in the area that is still advancing.
We then drove on to a site close to another face of the Moreno. Before we got too close we took photographs with the glacier framed by vivid Chilean Firebushes.
We then spent two hours on the walk ways close to the glacier, marvelling at its height (seventy metres) and enjoying the sound of the internal creaking and the crash of ice falling into the lake.
On our way back to the estancia we glimpsed a Lesser Grison, as it crossed the road. Better views were obtained of a male Andean Condor and a pair of Cinnereous Harriers.
The evening meal was a barbecue with live music and dancing; a little 'local flavour'. This was a perfect setting in which to celebrate Lynn's birthday. She claimed to be twenty-one recurring. We had very little cake and wine, honest!
WEDNESDAY 17 NOVEMBER
ESTANCIA ALICE
WEATHER 4/8 Cu. Sunny, 0
By 08.45 we were at the Laguna Punta Bandera. This time we managed to find an Andean Ruddy Duck. Just as we were about to drive on twenty-four Chilean Flamingos flew by, bright pink birds caught in brilliant sunshine with a background of snow clad mountains, where else could we be but in the Andes.
By 08.30 we were at Puerto Bandera boarding the M.V. ALM. We set sail at 09.00.
We spent the day sailing on the Lago Argentino; first through the narrows, Boca del Diablo, then on through the Brazo Norte to the Spegazzini Glacier. We sailed up to the toe of the glacier, passing a number of hanging glaciers on the way. Above the glacier were towering peaks, the highest at 2,420 m.a.s.l. The boat took us within four hundred metres of the deeply crevassed ice face, some areas of which were shining a brilliant blue. We then moved on to the Upsala Glacier. In this case it was impossible to make a very close approach as the channel was blocked with massive icebergs.
By 14.30 we had landed at Bahia Onelli. By this time it was hot so the birds of the beech forest were difficult to find. There were two highlights, a pair of Andean Condors in co-ordinated flight and a female Magellanic Woodpecker perched on a gnarled tree. The view of the Onelli Glacier and the river crammed with icebergs was splendid.
Two hours later we were back at Puerto Dandera. The whole day was blessed with splendid weather.
THURSDAY 18 NOVEMBER
ESTANCIA ALICE
WEATHER 7/8 Cu. Dull, 0. p.m. Showers, NW 2
The day was spent on the journey to Chile.
By 08.30 we were at the Laguna Nimez, a small nature reserve on the edge of El Calafate. The well vegetated lake was a haven for wetland birds. It was here that we found Black-headed Ducks. The other thrill was seeing four male and two female Cinereous Harriers at very close range.
Beyond the sand dunes protecting the laguna was a wide sandy bay of the Laguna Argentina. Wading birds were here in force. There were about one hundred and twenty 'peeps', about eighty percent of which were Baird's and twenty percent White-rumped Sandpipers. There was also a family of Two-banded Plovers and four Magellanic Plovers, a much more local species.
After an hour in the town we set off for Torres del Paine. Much of the journey was over the Patagonian Plateau, a windswept bleak area of grassland at roughly eight hundred metres above sea level. Lesser Rhea were common and the large Chocolate-vented Ground-tyrant was obvious in the higher areas.
We lunched at Esperanza and crossed the border into Chile at Cerro Castillo. The first bird we saw in Chile was an Andean Condor. Lesser Rheas and Guanaco became more common. Before entering the National Park we made a detour along the Rio Paine. At this point the river cuts through deep gorges. Our quest was the Torrent Duck. We were fortunate enough to find two pairs with their chicks. Once in the park we enjoyed wonderful views of the Torres massif, including the 'Horns' and the 'Towers.' More photographs!
In order to reach the Hosteria las Torres we had to transfer to a smaller bus so that we could negotiate the very narrow bridge over the Rio Paine.
FRIDAY 19 NOVEMBER
TORRES DEL PAINE
WEATHER 4/8 Cu. Sunny, NE 3
The whole day was spent in the National Park.
Soon after we had left the park gates we came across a herd of young male Guanaco. They took little notice of us, even as we approached on foot. Two of the males even continued to spar as we watched. They rose on to their back legs and thrust their chests together with a clearly audible crash; they then entwined their necks before attempting to bite each others legs. Andean Condors were also very active.
Wildfowl were numerous, including seven Spectacled Duck which preferred the smaller, well vegetated pools. One pool was full of reeds, a haven for nesting Brown-hooded Gulls and the rather secretive Austral Canestero.
At 11.30 we explored the area around the waterfall, Salto Grande. The river was in spate so the waterfall was very impressive. This was also a wonderful area for flowers. The two most impressive species were Calceolaria uniflora and C. biflora; more photographs. We ate our packed lunch at the Lago Pehoe, a site with a great view of the massif.
The afternoon was spent at Lago Grey. When we arrived in the area we had to cross a rather wobbly suspension bridge. (NB wobbly but safe!) This took us to another area of Southern Beech forest where we hoped to see Magellanic Woodpecker again. There was no woodpecker but did have good views of the subtle Austral Parakeet.
Once through the forest we emerged onto a dry stony plain on the edge of Lago Grey. We climbed the terminal moraine which had cut off a bay from the main flow of the river. In the bay were hundreds of trapped icebergs which framed the view of the Grey Glacier beyond. Once again we were impressed by the splendour of the dramatic landscape.
SATURDAY 20 NOVEMBER
TORRES DEL PAINE
WEATHER 1/8 Cu. Sunny, E3-6
Before breakfast we took a short walk into a nearby woodland in search of Magellanic Owl. It would appear that the owl was not using the wood as a roost this year but we did find a striking Striped Woodpecker.
By 08.30 we had travelled to the park gates where our bus was parked. As soon as we left the park we saw a pair of Culpio, one of which climbed on to a small rock pinnacle right by the bus. At the same time a Red-tailed Plantcutter appeared. The massif was beautifully sunlit so more photographs were taken.
At 09.40 we reached the border of Argentina. As we entered the country we recorded the first Common Miner of the trip. We then found three Andean Condors on a carcass. Overhead were six more condors and three Crested Caracaras. Then a South American Grey Fox ran alongside the bus, stopped to look at us and then lay in the grass. We had a wonderful view. Lesser Seedsnipe were common once again; at one point we heard the display call of the male.
Lunch was taken at Esperanza.
We then stopped at a lookout at the start of the descent to El Calafate. Mount Fitzroy could be seen in the distance.
We then took an afternoon flight to Buenos Aires.
SUNDAY 21 NOVEMBER
BUENOS AIRES
WEATHER Iguazu : 2/8 Cu, Hot, Still
In the morning we said goodbye to Lynn, who was flying home, and then flew to Iguazu.
We were greeted in Iguazu by Miguel, our local leader for the next three days. Our first view of the falls was from our hotel rooms.
Once we had had lunch and a rest we went out on foot to explore the area adjacent to the Iguazu Falls. Everyone was spellbound by the drama of the falls, even those of us who had seen them before. In fact the falls were especially impressive as heavy rain had been falling in Brazil for three days and the River Iguazu was in spate. First we walked the Lower Trail enjoying wonderful views of Great Dusky Swift. We even saw one climbing around a sheer cliff within the splash zone of one of the smaller waterfalls; later we saw one on a nest, again in the splash zone of the falls. Later in the day we saw swifts plunging through the face of the waterfall to their nests behind, a seemingly impossible feat.
More colourful birds also caught our attention, including Toco Toucan, Violaceous Euphonia, Blue-naped Chlorophonia and Red-rumped Cacique. Unfortunately the only Black-fronted Piping-Guan we saw was some distance away. There were other delights to be seen though: a family of Coatis, a Common Tegu Lizard, and a colony of Golden Ants. The colony was very active around the nest hole. After watching them for a while we realised why; the winged queen was seen in the entrance of the nest, presumably prior to taking flight later in the evening.
As the day lengthened we walked the Upper Trail. We were able to approach the lip of the waterfall. From here we could also watch the huge evening gathering of Black Vultures that eventually went to roost on dead trees on an island in the river. The swifts also gathered in great numbers. At one point a lone Bat Falcon swept up into their midst but failed to catch a swift. As the evening cooled song birds appeared including such gems as Blue Dacnis, Swallow and Green-headed Tanagers and Tropical Parula. At dusk Brazilian Guinea Pigs were seen as they fed on the lawn of the hotel.
MONDAY 22 NOVEMBER
IGUAZU
WEATHER Clear, hot and still
In order to avoid the hottest part of the day we awoke early. By 06.10 we were on Ruta 101, a rough road that eventually led to a crossing into Brazil. As this is an area which has a mixture of habitats ranging from scrubby clearings to dense forest it was full of bird life. Flycatchers seemed to be perched on every prominent branch and woodpeckers could be heard drumming. We managed to find woodpeckers ranging from the diminutive Ochre-collared Piculet to the massive Lineated Woodpecker. The rarer Blond-crested Woodpecker was only seen fleetingly, sadly.
Once on the narrow trail through the forest we were able to seek out the more elusive species, including Variable Antshrike, Eared Pygmy -Tyrant and White-shouldered Fire-eye. Then, much to our delight, a Rusty-margined Guan walked out into the middle of the trail about sixty metres ahead of us. We were all able to gain good views of this very local species through the telescope. We also saw two perched Yellow-headed Caracara and a flying Grey-headed Kite. At the end of the trail we joined the tourists on the walkway across the river to the Devil's Throat, the main waterfall. Here it was possible to stand right next to the lip of the waterfall. As well as enjoying spectacular views of the waterfall we also saw Snail Kites, Yellow-billed Cardinals, White-winged Swallows and Anhinga.
After a siesta we drove to the suburbs of Puerto Iguazu to the 'Jardin de los Picaflores', the garden of hummingbirds. This is a private garden which is open to the public by invitation. For some years the owners have provided nectar for hummingbirds and seed for other birds. We sat quietly and revelled in close encounters with seven species of hummingbirds. [One Violet-crowned Woodnymph perched so close to me that I had to use the 'reading' section of my bi-focals to watch it!] We also had great views of feeding Bananquit and Ruddy Ground-dove.
We then drove on to a nearby pond. Here we set up the telescopes. We were soon watching Purple Gallinule, Common Moorhen, Wattled Jacana, Ringed Kingfisher and a lone Muscovy Duck. Not to be out done Yellow-fronted Woodpecker and Magpie Tanager also showed off their finery.
A little further down the road was an Araucaria forest. Once again flycatchers entertained us, especially the flamboyant Fork-tailed Flycatcher. After a search amongst the foliage of the trees we found the delightful Araucaria Tit Spinetail. We then looked at the moon through the telescope.
As we drove back towards the National Park we came across a pair of stunning Red-breasted Toucan.
As the sun set we entered the Antenna Trail, a short trail leading to a clearing in the centre of which was a tall radio antenna. We were delighted to find a Blond-crested Woodpecker which we watched at close range. Miguel used the spotlight to illuminate the bird when it hid in the shadows. We then heard Short-tailed Nighthawk. As soon as Miguel whistled its call the bird appeared overhead. Despite the deafening call of cicadas we heard a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl calling. Fortunately it was close enough to be captured in the spotlight. We were not so lucky with a very vociferous Tropical Screech Owl; even though it was obviously close at hand it would not show itself. As we walked back to the vehicle we heard the barking of an Azara's Agouti and watched huge fireflies flitting through the undergrowth.
TUESDAY 23 NOVEMBER
IGUAZU
WEATHER Clear, hot, still
Once again we rose early. By 06.00 we entered the Macuco Trail in the National Park. We had the trail to ourselves for four hours. Moving quietly along the trail enabled us to view a number of deep forest species, some of which are very elusive. Southern Antpipit was seen twice at close range.
Soon we heard the percussive sound of lekking White-bearded Manakins. We found the dancing males two or three metres into the forest. We then found the rather less demonstrative Band-tailed Manakin. Other bird species noted included Red-crowned Ant-tanager, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Plain Ant-vireo, Black-capped Foliage-gleaner and Fuscous and Grey-hooded Flycatchers. A Pearly-breasted Cuckoo was then heard singing. Eventually we tracked down the pair. This is a migrant from Central Brazil so we were thrilled to see it. We also found a perched Barred Forest Falcon, a vividly coloured Chestnut-eared Aracari and both Black-throated and Surucua Trogons. The other highlight of the morning was the emergence of an Azara's Agouti and good views of three Brown Capuchin Monkeys.
By 11.00 we had showered, changed and packed ready for our flight to Buenos Aires. As we approached the restaurant at the Park HQ, however, there were more birds to be seen, including Chopi Blackbird, Yellow-bellied Elaenia and Guira Cuckoo, which had eluded us earlier.
We arrived in the Capital in time to spend the evening relaxing.
WEDNESDAY 24 NOVEMBER
BUENOS AIRES
WEATHER 8/8 Cu, dull, light breeze
We spent the morning with Hernan, at Costanera Sur, a 'park' next to the River Plate. Costanera Sur consists of shallow lakes, a deep canal, scrub and woodland intersected by gravel paths. The water level in the lakes was ideal, as there were muddy edges. During the morning we noted seventy five species of birds.
The wetland contained a wide variety of herons, grebes, duck, waders and gallinules. Both White-faced and Fulvous Whistling-ducks were present, as were Silver Teal and Masked Duck. Gallinules included three species of coot, Spot-flanked Gallinule and Plumbeous Rail. Amongst the five species of herons present were Striated and Black-crowned Night-heron. Waders included Pectoral and White-rumped Sandpiper. Snowy-crowned Terns and Green Kingfisher also competed for our attention. Song birds were also abundant, the most interesting of which were Many-coloured Rush-tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird and Black-capped and Black-and-rufous Warbling Finches. Narrow-billed Woodcreeper and Black-hooded Parakeet were also noted. Just as we reached the River Plate a Black Skimmer flew by; this was very unexpected.
Our attention was not confined to birds, however; we saw Painted and Stripe-necked Turtles laying eggs, Coypu and a variety of butterflies. This walk 'rounded off' a great trip.
The afternoon was spent at leisure. In the evening we flew home.
Neil Arnold
December 2004
SPECIES LISTS
BIRDS
KEY
[ ] TOTAL COUNTS
( ) PEAK COUNTS
RHEAS Rheidae
Lesser Rhea Rhea pennata Common Valdes Peninsula, Patagonian Plateau (Argentina), Torres del Paine
TINAMOUS Tinamidae
Spotted Tinamou Nothura maculosa One Otamendi
Elegant-Crested Tinamou Eudromia elegans Seven Valdes Peninsula
PENGUINS Spheniscidae
King Penguin Aptonodytes patagonicus One Harberton, Beagle Channel
Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua Fourteen Harberton, Beagle Channel
Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus Hundreds Punta Tombo, Valdes Peninsula, ninety Harberton, Beagle Channel
GREBES Podicipedidae
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps Several Costanera Sur
White-tufted Grebe Rolandia rolland Common Valdes Peninsula, Calafate, Costanera Sur
Great Grebe Podiceps major Common on lakes and the sea throughout
Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis Mainly Valdes Peninsula and Torres del Paine [23]
ALBATROSSES Diomedeidae
Black-browed Albatross Diomedea melanophris One hundred and ten Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
PETRELS & SHEARWATERS Procellariidae
Southern (Antarctic) Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus Common Valdes Peninsula and Ushuaia & Beagle Channel [19]
Southern (Antarctic) Fulmar Fulmarus glacialoides Six Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
DIVING PETRELS Pelecanoididae
Magellanic Diving-petrel Pelecanoides magellani Of the six diving petrels noted two were of this species; Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
STORM-PETRELS Hydrobatidae
Wilson's Storm-petrel Oceanites oceanicus One Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
DARTERS Anhingidae
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Confined to Ig [5]
CORMORANTS Phalacracoracidae
Neotropic (Olivaceous) Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus (olivaceus) Common on the coast and at Iguazu
Rock Shag Phalacrocorax magellanicus Three records Valdes Peninsula, common Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Imperial Shag (King Cormorant) Phalacrocorax atriceps Common Valdes Peninsula and Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
HERONS & BITTERNS Ardeidae
Cocoi / White-necked Heron Ardea cocoi Common Otamendi and one Costanera Sur
Great Egret Ardea alba Noted Otamendi Valdes Peninsula Iguazu Costanera Sur
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Common Otamendi Iguazu and Costanera Sur
Striated Heron Butorides striatus Two Costanera Sur
Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax Scattered records TF and Calafate. Common Iguazu and Costanera Sur [36]
FLAMINGOS Phoenicopteridae
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis Four hundred Valdes Peninsula, thirty eight Calafate and fifty two Torres del Paine
STORKS Ciconiidae
Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari Two Otamendi
IBISES & SPOONBILLS Threskiornithidae
Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis A handful Valdes Peninsula, thirty eight Calafate and fifty two Torres del Paine
Whispering (Bare-faced) Ibis Phimosus infuscatus Two Otamendi
White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi Hundreds Buenos Aires Otamendi
Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja Eighteen Otamendi
WHISTLING-DUCKS Dendrocygnidae
Fulvous Whistling-duck Dendrocygna bicolor At least one hundred and twenty Costanera Sur
White-faced Whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata Around twenty Costanera Sur
WILDFOWL Anatidae
Black-necked Swan Cygnus melancoryphus Common Calafate Torres del Paine Costanera Sur
Coscoroba Swan Coscoroba coscoroba Eleven Valdes Peninsula, common Calafate Torres del Paine Costanera Sur
Masked Duck Oxyura dominica One Costanera Sur
Andean [Ruddy] Duck Oxyura ferruginea Six Calafate
Lake Duck Oxyura vittata Thirty Valdes Peninsula. Common Calafate Torres del Paine Costanera Sur
Black-headed Duck Heteronetta atricapilla A pair Calafate and eight Costanera Sur
Upland (Magellanic) Goose Chloephaga picta Very common southern Patagonia
Kelp Goose Chloephaga hybrida Local Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Ashy-headed Goose Chloephaga poliocephala Moderately common southern Patagonia
[Magellanic] Flightless Steamerduck Tachyeres pteneres Common Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Flying Steamerduck Tachyeres patachonicus Widespread southern Patagonia
White-headed / Chubut Steamerduck Tachyeres leucocephalus A pair at Punta Tombo Valdes Peninsula and a male duck at Ushuaia & Beagle Channel was thought to be of this species
Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata A female Iguazu
Ringed Teal Callonetta leucophrys One in flight and two at rest Otamendi
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Two pairs: one with a chick and one with two. Torres del Paine
Chiloe/Southern Wigeon Anas sibilatrix Common Valdes Peninsula and southern Patagonia
Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris Scattered records Valdes Peninsula. Common Calafate and Torres del Paine (100) Torres del Paine
Spectacled Duck Anas specularis A pair Calafate. Seven Torres del Paine
(Patagonian) Crested Duck Anas specularoides Common Valdes Peninsula and southern Patagonia (120) Torres del Paine
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica spinicauda Widespread. (300) Valdes Peninsula
Silver Teal Anas versicolor Twenty Costanera Sur
Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera A male Valdes Peninsula and a pair Calafate
Red Shoveler Anas platalea Valdes Peninsula (100) and common Calafate Torres del Paine. (160) Torres del Paine
Rosy-billed Pochard Netta peposaca Valdes Peninsula (15). A male Calafate. Costanera Sur (20)
AMERICalafateN VULTURES Catharidae
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Scattered records, nowhere common
American Black Vulture Coragyps atratus A few Otamendi. Very common Iguazu (50)
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus Two Ushuaia & Beagle Channel, twenty four Calafate, eight Torres del Paine [32]
HAWKS Accipitridae
Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis One Iguazu
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus One Valdes Peninsula
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis One Otamendi, eight Iguazu and one Costanera Sur [10]
Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Twenty nine Iguazu
Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus A pair Valdes Peninsula, eleven Calafate and one Torres del Paine [15]
Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni Three Otamendi
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Six Calafate and three Torres del Paine [9]
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris One Otamendi, one Iguazu and one Costanera Sur
Red-backed (Variable) Hawk Buteo polyosoma A pair with three chicks Valdes Peninsula
FALCONS & CARACARAS Falconidae
White-throated Caracara Phalcoboenus albogularis [megalopterus] Two Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Southern Crested Caracara Caracara planeus Common throughout
Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango Common except Iguazu
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Two Iguazu
Barred Forest Falcon Macrastur ruficollaris One Iguazu
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Scattered records [11]
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis One Iguazu
GUANS & CHACHALACAS Cracidae
Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris One Iguazu
Dusky-legged Guan Penelope obscura One Otamendi
Black-fronted Piping-guan Pipile jacutinga One Iguazu
RAILS & COOTS Rallidae
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus One Costanera Sur
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus A family Iguazu and common Costanera Sur
Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops At least six Costanera Sur
American Purple Gallinule Porphyrula martinicus One Iguazu
Red-gartered Coot Fulica armillata Common Valdes Peninsula Calafate Torres del Paine Costanera Sur
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera Small numbers Valdes Peninsula and Calafate. Common Costanera Sur
Red-fronted Coot Fulica rufifrons Only noted Valdes Peninsula and Costanera Sur
JACANAS Jacanidae
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common Otamendi and Costanera Sur. Three Iguazu
OYSTERCATCHERS Haematopodidae
American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Common Valdes Peninsula [24]
Magellanic Oystercatcher Haematopus leucopodus Common in southern Patagonia [30]
Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater Common on ropcky shores Valdes Peninsula Ushuaia & Beagle Channel [30]
AVOCETS AND STILTS Recurvirostridae
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Thirty Otamendi, thirty five Valdes Peninsula and three Costanera Sur
PAINTED -SNIPE Rostratulidae
American Painted-Snipe Nycticryphes semicollaris One Valdes Peninsula
PLOVERS Charadriidae
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Common throughout
Two-banded Plover Charadrius falklandicus Seven Valdes Peninsula, scattered records Calafate Torres del Paine
Magellanic Plover Pluvianellus socialis Four Calafate
SANDPIPERS Scolopacidae
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Eight Valdes Peninsula and ten Costanera Sur
South American (Magellan) Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae One Valdes Peninsula
White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis At least five Ushuaia & Beagle Channel. At least ninety Calafate and seven Costanera Sur [120]
Baird’s Sandpiper Calidris bairdii One Valdes Peninsula, twelve Ushuaia & Beagle Channel thirty Calafate and twelve Torres del Paine [56]
Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris meloninus Four Costanera Sur
SEEDSNIPES Thinocoridae
White-bellied Seedsnipe Attagis meloninus One Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus two Valdes Peninsula and twenty Patagonian Plateau (Argentina)
SHEATHBILLS Chionididae
Snowy Sheathbill Chionis alba Two distantly Valdes Peninsula
SKUAS Stercorariidae
Chilean Skua Catharacta chilensis Only Ushuaia & Beagle Channel (45)
Antarctic (Southern Brown) Skua Catharacta antarctica Thirty or so Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
GULLS Laridae
Dolphin Gull Larus scorebii Common Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Kelp (Dominican) Gull Larus dominicanus Common on the coast and scattered records Calafate Torres del Paine
Brown-hooded (Patagonian) Gull Larus maculipennis Nowhere common. Recorded on the coast and Calafate Torres del Paine
TERNS Sternidae
South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea Scattered records from Valdes Peninsula to Calafate. One Torres del Paine and some two hundred and fifty in the Beagle Channel Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Snowy-crowned Tern Sterna trudeau Four Costanera Sur
SKIMMERS Rynchopidae
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Three at rest Otamendi and one in flight Costanera Sur
PIGEONS & DOVES Columbidae
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia Common near habitation
Picazuro Pigeon Columba picazuro Common in Buenos Aires and Iguazu
Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis Common Iguazu
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Widespread except Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Ruddy Ground-dove Columbina talpacoti Only Iguazu
Picui Ground-dove Columbina picui One Costanera Sur
White-tipped Dove Lepotila verreauxi Heard more often than seen Otamendi Iguazu
PARROTS Psittacidae
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Ten Iguazu
Nanday (Black-hooded) Parakeet Nandayus nenday Ten Costanera Sur
Burrowing Parrot Cyanoliseus patagonus Twenty two Valdes Peninsula
Maroon-(Reddish-)bellied Parakeet Pyrrhura frontalis Two Iguazu
Austral Parakeet Enicognathus ferrugineus Fourteen Calafate and two Torres del Paine
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Common Otamendi Buenos Aires
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Six Iguazu
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani Common Iguazu
ANIS Crotophagidae
Greater Ani Crotophaga major Several Iguazu
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common Ig
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira Two Ig, heard Costanera Sur
NEW WORLD CUCKOOS Coccyzidae
Ash-coloured Cuckoo Coccyzus cinereus Heard Iguazu
Pearly-breasted Cuckoo Coccyzus euleri Two Iguazu
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana two Iguazu
TYPICAL OWLS Strigidae
Tropical Screech Owl Otus choliba Heard Iguazu
Ferruginous Pygmy-owl Glaucidium brasilianum One Iguazu
Austral Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nanum Two Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Four Valdes Peninsula
NIGHTJARS Caprimulgidae
Short-tailed Nightjar Lurocalis semitorquatus One Iguazu
Great Dusky Swift Cypseloides senex Thousands Iguazu
HUMMINGBIRDS Trochilidae
Scale-throated Hermit Phaethornis eurynome One Iguazu
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Several Iguazu
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris Noted Otamendi Iguazu Costanera Sur
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis Several Iguazu
White-throated Hummingbird Hylocharis leucotis One Iguazu
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura Several Ig
Versicolored Emerald Agyrtria versicolor Several Iguazu
TROGONS Trogonidae
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus One Iguazu
Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura Several Iguazu
GIANT KINGFISHERS Cerylidae
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata One Ushuaia & Beagle Channel and one Iguazu
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana One Costanera Sur
MOTMOTS Motmotidae
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficapillus Heard Iguazu
TOUCANS Ramphastidae
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis One Iguazu
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus Two Iguazu
Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco Common Iguazu
WOODPECKERS Picidae
Ochre-collared Piculet Picumnus temminckii Two males Iguazu
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes flavifrons Three Iguazu
Striped Woodpecker Picoides lignarius One Torres del Paine
Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros One Otamendi, one Iguazu and one Costanera Sur
Chilean Flicker Colaptes pitius A pair Calafate
Field (Campo) Flicker Colaptes campestroides [campestris] Six records Iguazu
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens Two Iguazu
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus A pair Iguazu
Magellanic Woodpecker Campephilus magellanicus A male Ushuaia & Beagle Channel and a female Calafate
WOODCREEPERS Dendrocolaptidae
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris Two Costanera Sur
Lesser Woodcreeper Leidocolaptes fuscus Heard Iguazu
OVENBIRDS Furnariidae
Common Miner Geositta cunicularia Four Calafate
Scale-throated Earthcreeper Upucerthia dumetaria Common Valdes Peninsula and Torres del Paine
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Common southern Patagonia
Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus Scattered records southern Patagonia
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Common Otamendi Iguazu Costanera Sur
Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda Common in the forests Ushuaia & Beagle Channel Calafate Torres del Paine
Araucaria Tit-spinetail Leptasthenura setaria One Iguazu
Chicli Spinetail Synallaxis spixi One Otamendi and heard Iguazu
Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta One Calafate
Patagonian Canastero Asthenes patagonica Two Valdes Peninsula
Austral Canastero Asthenes anthoides Five Torres del Paine
Freckle-breasted Thornbird Phacellodomus striaticollis One Otamendi
Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops Four Costanera Sur
Curve-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis curvirostris One Otamendi
Band-tailed Earthcreeper Eremobius phoenicurus Two Valdes Peninsula
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner Philydor atricapillus One Iguazu
TYPICAL ANTBIRDS Thamnophilidae
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens A male Iguazu
Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus One with a juv. Otamendi
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis One Iguazu
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera One Iguazu
ANT-THRUSHES Formicariidae
Short-tailed Ant-Thrush Chamaeza campanisona Heard Iguazu
TAPACULOS Rhinocryptidae
Andean/Magellanic Tapaculo Scytalopus magellanicus One Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS Tyrannidae
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Two Iguazu
Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris Two Otamendi and two Iguazu
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus Scattered records Ushuaia & Beagle Channel Calafate
Many-colored Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra Two Costanera Sur
Gray-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris One Iguazu
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola Two Iguazu
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi Two Iguazu
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis One Iguazu
Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus Two Iguazu
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope Scattered records Ushuaia & Beagle Channel Calafate Torres del Paine
Rusty-backed Monjita Xolmis rubetra Two Valdes Peninsula
Chocolate-vented Tyrant Neoxolmis rufiventris Six Patagonian Plateau (Argentina)
Dark-faced Ground-tyrant Muscisaxicola macloviana Seven records Ushuaia & Beagle Channel Calafate Torres del Paine
Ochre-naped Ground-tyrant Muscisaxicola flavinucha Three Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
Austral Negrito Lessonia rufa Common Patagonia
White-winged Black Tyrant Knipolegus atterrimus One Valdes Peninsula
Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus Noted Otamendi Calafate Costanera Sur
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus One Iguazu
Yellow-browed Tyrant Satrapa icterophrys Two Iguazu
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus Four Iguazu
Sirystes Sirystes sibilator Two Iguazu
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Common Otamendi Iguazu Costanera Sur, less so Valdes Peninsula.
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarhynchus pitangua Two Iguazu
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Only Iguazu
Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata Four Iguazu
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus One Otamendi and two Iguazu
Variegated Flycatcher Empidonomus varius One Iguazu
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Only Iguazu Otamendi and Costanera Sur
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Noted Otamendi Valdes Peninsula and Iguazu
Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana Two Iguazu
MANAKINS Pipridae
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Several Iguazu
Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda A female Iguazu
PLANTCUTTERS Phytotomidae
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Phytotoma rara One Torres del Paine
SWALLOWS & MARTINS Hirundinidae
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer Several Iguazu
White-rumped Swallow Tachycineta leucorrhoa Only Otamendi and Costanera Sur
Chilean Swallow Tachycineta meyeni Common in Patagonia
Brown-chested Martin Phaeoprogne tapera Only Otamendi
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Only noted Otamendi, Iguazu, Costanera Sur
Southern Martin Progne modesta Several Valdes Peninsula
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Scattered records Valdes Peninsula, Torres del Paine and Iguazu
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis One Iguazu
WAGTAILS & PIPITS Motacillidae
Short-billed Pipit Anthus furcatus Several Valdes Peninsula
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera In wet grasslands Otamendi, Valdes Peninsula, Calafate
Hellmayr's Pipit Anthus hellmayri One in song flight Calafate
WRENS Troglodytidae
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Widespread
MOCKINGBIRDS & THRASHERS Mimidae
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus In Otamendi, Iguazu, Costanera Sur
Patagonian Mockingbird Mimus patagonicus Common Valdes Peninsula
THRUSHES Turdidae
Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Common Otamendi, Valdes Peninsula , Iguazu, Costanera Sur
Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii Common Patagonia
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas Common Iguazu
Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus Only Otamendi
White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis Heard Iguazu
GNATCATCHERS Polioptilidae
Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola Noted Otamendi and Costanera Sur
JAYS & CROWS Corvidae
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops Common Iguazu
STARLINGS Sturnidae
Common (European) Starling Sturnus vulgaris Common Buenos Aires
NEW WORLD SPARROWS and BUNTINGS Emberizidae - Emberizinae
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Noted daily
Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi One Torres del Paine and one Patagonian Plateau (Argentina)
Patagonian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus patagonicus Scattered records Patagonia
Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti Only Valdes Peninsula and Torres del Paine
Common Diuca-Finch Diuca diuca Four records Valdes Peninsula
Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch Poospiza nigrorufa Common Otamendi and Costanera Sur
Black-capped Warbling-Finch Poospiza melanoleuca One Costanera Sur
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Common Iguazu
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis Several Otamendi
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens Common Iguazu
Lesser Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis A male Iguazu
Red-crested Finch Coyphospingus cucullatus Several Iguazu
CARDINALS & GROSBEAKS Emberizidae - Cardinalinae
Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata One male Otamendi
Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata Two Iguazu
Black-throated Grosbeak Saltator fuliginosus Heard Iguazu
TANAGERS Emberizidae - Thraupina
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana One Iguazu
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus Two Iguazu
Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops Two Iguazu
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica One Iguazu
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca One Iguazu
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea Common Iguazu
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea Two Iguazu
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon One Iguazu
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana Several Iguazu
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis Several Iguazu
BANANAQUIT Coerebidae
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Several Iguazu
NEW WORLD WARBLERS Parulidae
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi Two Iguazu
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis One Otamendi and three Costanera Sur
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum One Iguazu
FINCHES Fringillidae
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanicus Common Otamendi and Costanera Sur
Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata Scattered records Patagonia
SPARROWS Passeridae
House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common Argentina
NEW WORLD ORIOLES Icteridae
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Common Iguazu
Golden-winged Cacique Cacicus chrysopterus Two Iguazu
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis Three Iguazu
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius Only Otamendi, Torres del Paine, and Costanera Sur
Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca Common Patagonia
Brown-and-yellow Marshbird Pseudoleistes virescens Several Otamendi
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus Several Otamendi
Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus Common Patagonia
Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi Two Iguazu
Bay-winged Cowbird Molothrus badius Several Costanera Sur
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Noted Otamendi Valdes Peninsula Iguazu Costanera Sur
Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora Four records Iguazu
MAMMALS
PRIMATES - New World Monkeys Primates - Cebidae
Brown Capuchin Cebus apella Three Iguazu
CARNIVORES - Dogs Carnivora - Canidae
Culpio Pseuolopex culpaeus Two Torres del Paine
Argentine Grey Fox Dasicyon griseus One Patagonian Plateau (Argentina)
CARNIVORES - Raccoons Carnivora - Procyonidae
South American Coati Nasua nasua Common Iguazu
CARNIVORES - Mustelids Carnivora - Mustelidae
Patagonian Skunk Conepatus humboldtii One Calafate
Lesser Grison Galictis cuja One briefly Calafate
CARNIVORES - Sealions Carnivora - Otariidae
South American Sea Lion Otaria flavescens Common Valdes Peninsula and Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
CalafateRNIVORES - Seals Carnivora - Phocidae
Southern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonina Some two hundred and fifty Valdes Peninsula
CETACEANS - Right Whales Cetacea - Balaenidae
Southern (Black) Right Whale Eubalaena australis At least twenty Valdes Peninsula
EVEN-TOED UNGULATES – Camelids Artiodactyla - Camelidae
Guanaco Lama guanicoe Common Valdes Peninsula. Very common Torres del Paine
RODENTS - Guinea Pigs Rodentia - Caviidae
Brazilian Guinea Pig (Cavy) Cavia aperea Common Iguazu
Southern Mountain (Lesser) Cavy Microcavia australis Two Valdes Peninsula
Mara Dolichotis patagonum At least twenty Valdes Peninsula
RODENTS - Agoutis Rodentia - Dasyproctidae
Azara's Agouti Dasyprocta azarae One seen well Iguazu
RODENTS - Coypus Rodentia - Myocastoridae
Coypu Myocastor coypus Several Costanera Sur
LAGOMORPHS - Rabbits & Hares Lagomorpha - Leporidae
Brown Hare Lepus europaeus Common Patagonia
European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus One Ushuaia & Beagle Channel
REPTILES
Common Tegu Common Iguazu
'Lidaemus Lizard' One Valdes Peninsula
Painted turtle One Costanera Sur
Stripe-necked Turtle One Costanera Sur
Hillair’s Side-necked Turtle Several Costanera Sur and possibly this species Iguazu
'Tropidurus Lizard Several Iguazu
OTHER TAXA
Bullet Ant Common Iguazu
Golden-bellied Ant A colony Iguazu
Firefly species Common Iguazu
'Terinopelma Tarantula' One Valdes Peninsula
© The Travelling Naturalist 2004
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