TRAVELLING NATURALIST TRIP REPORT

Spain - Andalucía in Autumn

HIGHLIGHTS
Flamingos doing the Conga across the marsh at El Rocío - Tom The wonderful views of Bluethroat - Diane
Eagles taking off from Europe to cross the Straits into Morocco - Bernadette Bonelli's Eagle: John whipped out of the minibus so excited - Peter The House Martins, which could have nested on our house, crossing to Africa - Martin
Watching little birds taking the same step and going for Africa - Mary Greenfinch and Stonechat side by side in the telescope Watching a man get off his horse to make a phone call in El Rocío. The horse waited outside the phone box as if it were next in line. Photographing a dead eel on the beach when two pairs of feet appeared in the viewfinder. They were attached to two very attractive naked men. Egyptian grasshopper at the coffee stop on the way to Seville - Greta An Osprey carrying a fish across the Straits to Morocco as if it were a picnic lunch: it did not trust the food there - June The first raptor on the first day - a species I would remember, Short-toed Eagle - David The Black-shouldered Kite, such a lovely bird to see - Angie A Short-toed Eagle perched on a pylon. It looked just like the picture in the book - Marjorie
Melodious Warbler: one of eight lifers - Brian The Bluethroat. And the Osprey carrying a fish, just like those I have watched in Cumbria. I wondered if it had carried the fish all the way from there. The habitat and what's going on in it. Fan-tailed Warbler: I had super views of the little beggar. - Neil DAILY DIARY

Saturday 21 September
After an uneventful flight the British contingent, led by Tim Earl, met John Muddeman and four smug Americans at Seville Airport - they had been watching a flock of 60 Pallid Swifts. We drove down to El Rocío, arriving in time for a late supper. It was a relief to see that there was water in the lagoon and to hear the calls of Mallard and Black-winged Stilts. We could only wonder at what the morning would bring.
Sunday 22 September
Okay, perhaps a 7.30 start in the dark was a little early but it was delightful to see the day break and begin picking out birds on the lagoon. The calling frogs turned out to be a huge flock of Greater Flamingos which gave great delight when they flew past, red wings flashing. The roll-call started in earnest and before breakfast we had seen at least 30 species including Black Tern, Black-winged stilt, Ruff, Spoonbill, Red-crested Pochard, bucket-loads of Pintail, Kingfisher, Subalpine Warbler and Marsh Harrier. A big Red Deer stag was seen at the back of the lagoon. It was a great shock to find that the wildlife interpretation centre with its thatched roof and roof-top viewing area had burnt down two weeks earlier.
Breakfast in the restaurant was followed by Spotless Starling on an aerial, Little Stint, Black-tailed Godwit, Black Kite, Gadwall, lots of Coot (but none was Red-knobbed) Shoveler, Teal, Wigeon, Willow Warbler and Collared Dove.
Sadly, a religious festival involved firing loud air-bombs which disturbed the birds and us so we decamped to El Acebuche visitor centre, spotting Red Fox on the way, where the rapid-fire bird fun began again.
Dartford Warbler, several Pied Flycatchers and Sardinian Warblers, were seen but the elusive Azure-winged Magpies were heard only.
We walked down the board-walks watching birds as we went but a soaring Short-toed Eagle caused the procession to stop. The bird was watched for at least 10 minutes to applause in the form of ooohs and aaahs.
Crimson-speckled Moths, brilliant migrants from Africa, were found with Lang's Short-tailed Blue butterflies and Red-veined Darters which were common. The lagoons had only recently held water and there was an absence of water birds but we glimpsed a Kingfisher and watched Green Sandpiper and Stonechat.
Lunch was eaten under the pines where we were soon surrounded by flocks of Azure-winged Magpies. They had been teasing us earlier. Calling Crested Tits were never pinned down and we left for the Palacio del Acebrón.
The walk around this strange 1960s hunting palace was delightful, as ever. Many Red-rumped Swallows and Pied Flycatchers were seen at the start and calling Short-toed Treecreepers eventually deigned to show themselves. A Cetti's Warbler was glimpsed but Iberian Chiffchaffs were more forthcoming. Long-tailed Tit is an uncommon bird in this part of Spain so we were pleased to pick up a small party of four. Several Spotted Flycatchers were seen by part of the group.
Wild Boar had been excavating widely and a Genet latrine was found, but neither species was seen. As we left the palace a dark-phase Booted Eagle soared up over the road in front of the minibuses and we were able to get great views of the bird. Its 'landing lights' - pale panels on the leading edges of its wings - were clearly visible. Soon afterwards a pale-phase bird was seen and we were able to compare and contrast the two types. As we were watching, a singing Thekla Lark was pointed out and a brilliant Red Kite came into view. Which should we watch? The answer came when a third Booted Eagle distracted us. It was an exciting end to the organised part of the day.
Several group members went out to watch the El Rocío lagoon before the call-over and dinner, adding Greenshank to the day's list.
Monday 23 September
A trip to the Jose Antonio Valverde interpretation centre is almost guaranteed as one of the best birding experiences in Europe and today was no exception.
From our first stop at the Arroyo de la Palmosa birds came thick and fast all day. The river had Greenshanks and Green Sandpipers, the first of many, plus a lone Wood Sandpiper, Spotted and Common Redshank.
A Tawny Pipit flew over, perhaps flushed by three Hoopoes which charged up out of the river bed. Turtle Dove was found on a cable as were several Tree Sparrows and a Common Buzzard.
Fan-tailed Warbler has been renamed Zitting Cisticola and several were seen around the river - a bird which was common throughout the day. Southern Grey Shrike was also seen for the first time to study.
Driving on we stopped in pine woodland to watch singing Woodlark, Crested Tit and glimpses of Bonelli's Warbler spotted by Martin and Tom.
It was clear as we drove onto the unmade road to the centre that there were masses of birds around. Herons, ducks and raptors were abundant but a stop for a kettle of birds produced one of the stars of the trip - a sub-adult Spanish Imperial Eagle. This most difficult of Iberian birds performed so well that after the excitement Tim and John were able to own up - they had seen one form the hotel the day before.
Our birding extravaganza went up a notch when we entered the area of rice fields close to the interpretation centre.
Suddenly there seemed to be Little Terns above every channel, Lesser Short-toed and Calandra Larks flocked around the drier fields and White Storks were common - some in large kettles. A call for one Black Stork resulted in us finding six roosting along one of the banks.
We finally reached the interpretation centre to find the tamarisk trees loaded with Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, two juvenile Woodchat Shrikes, Reed and Sedge Warblers.
Pools around the centre were largely dry but those with water were crowded with Pied Avocets, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Little Stint, Black-winged Stilts, Dunlin, and Black-tailed Godwit. To our surprise four Bar-tailed Godwit, a species normally found on the edge of seawater, dropped in too.
Lunch was taken close to a busy lagoon where more than 80 Spoonbill plus lots of other birds already seen were enjoyed. The whole lot rose into the air in unison as a Peregrine went over. It was probably the same bird which disturbed the waders later on.
Our return to the hotel was punctuated with stops to watch more larks and an obliging Hoopoe, two Little Ringed Plover, a sun-bleached Skylark, juvenile Grey Wagtail and flocks of House Sparrows which contained a few Linnet, Serin, and Goldfinches. One of the last birds of the day was a female Hen (Northern) Harrier
We returned to El Rocío for a well-earned shower and beer. More Red and Fallow Deer were seen from the hotel before we tucked into a meal of soup, whitebait and chocolate mousse. Those with stronger constitutions sampled the local brandy in large measure before turning in.
Tuesday 24 September
Our main travelling day started with a walk to the burnt-out interpretation centre at El Rocío. On the walk we saw many of the birds already recorded but added Melodious Warbler to the list. Good views of Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint were had by most. A Pallid Swift circled the hotel just before we left.
Little can be spotted from the minibuses and we were pleased to stretch legs at a motorway café. Pied and Spotted Flycatchers were seen in the grounds.
Our lunch stop at Laguna de Medina gave us another chance to study Short-toed Eagle. We also saw our first Hobby and two Booted Eagles passing by. Common Swift was seen by several people.
After lunch we set off to get better views of the lake's inhabitants, recording White-headed Duck, Black-necked Grebe, Purple Gallinule, Common Pochard, and Common Whitethroat for the first time. Great views of another juvenile Woodchat Shrike were had along with Red-crested Pochard, Greater Flamingo, assorted ducks and skip-loads of Little Grebes and Coots.
The final leg of our journey was broken to watch Red-legged Partridge, and a Common Buzzard.
Birding from the balconies of the hotel in Zahara produced an Egyptian Vulture, four Short-toed Eagles, eight Griffon Vultures and a Turtle Dove.
Wednesday 25 September
Our first full day birding the raptor migration along the Straits of Gibraltar certainly lived up to expectations. We watched in awe as hundreds of eagles, buzzards and vultures set off over our heads for the tempting African mainland which stood out so clearly.
The day started with a walk down the beach to see what migrants had arrived. They had notÖ but did so while we stood at the water's edge. A Northern Wheatear literally dropped out of the sky and landed between our feet. It had clearly mistaken us for a shelter-belt of bushes but darted inland once the truth dawned.
There were plenty of Yellow-legged Gulls following the fishing boats, accompanied by several Cory's Shearwaters and a few Balearic Shearwaters. Views were not good and we decided to give seawatching a miss until we visit Tarifa breakwater. We set off for breakfast but not until Sanderling and Kentish Plover had been studied.
Tim picked up an Alpine Swift as we were getting into the buses after breakfast. Our first raptor-watching stop was El Algarrobo viewpoint on a dramatic hillside overlooking Gibraltar and the nearby coast of Morocco. Birds of prey were coming over as we drove up and out telescopes were soon filled with views of Griffon Vulture, Booted Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Sparrowhawk, Black Stork, Short-toed Eagle and Pallid Swift, while around us were singing Cetti's Warbler, Stonechat, a bird which turned out to be abundant in the area, Sardinian Warbler and a lone Blue Tit.
A walk through the woods at the Huerta Grande interpretation centre gave us time to cool off and record Firecrest, Hawfinch, Red Crossbill, Nuthatch, Blackcap, Robin, (Winter) Wren, Grey Wagtail, Chaffinch, Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and yet more raptors overhead. A huge flock of Bee-eaters was picked up by John on call and we all had good views as they passed over. Several Monarch butterflies were seen flitting around recently-stripped red-trunked Cork Oaks.
Our arrival at the Cazalla viewpoint overlooking Tarifa, was perfectly timed. A juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle was passing over. It was followed by a succession of birds in small groups. These included several Egyptian Vulture, Black Stork, Booted and Short-toed Eagle and Red-rumped Swallow. A Long-legged Buzzard was a great find as was, just, a Bonelli's Eagle which came past as we were boarding the buses.
After ice-creams and a rest stop we went into the Sierra de la Plata, high hills overlooking the Roman town at Claudia Baelo. There was a terrific passage of falcons with Hobby, Peregrine, Kestrel and Lesser Kestrel shooting over the cliffs above us as were searched successfully for nesting Griffon Vulture, which were much admired, and Crag Martin. We studied a Two-tailed Pasha butterfly before John decided to give our session another two minutes before leaving for the hotel and after 90 seconds a White-rumped Swift turned up and did a fly-past performance.
It was a terrific end to our 'turn right for Morocco' migration-watching day.
Thursday 26 September
We headed away from the sea to La Janda marshes and rice fields where small birds and a rare bird of prey were the quarry.
The former were easy as the whole marsh was teeming with flocks of passerines. Linnet, Greenfinch, Common Whitethroat, several Whinchat, Yellow Wagtail, Zitting Cisticola, Greater Short-toed Lark and a pair of Ortolan Bunting were seen in the first few yards of a short walk.
We soon noticed raptors lower down the valley with several Common Buzzard perched on pylons and Marsh Harriers quartering the rice fields. A splendid male Hen (Northern) Harrier was seen by most. Driving along the main track across the marsh we saw a Black Kite distantly and a glorious Short-toed Eagle perched on a pylon.
Tim's bus stopped to watch a perched Marsh Harrier and noticed a small flock of Calandra Lark, while the other bus's sharp-eyed clients picked up Wood Sandpiper, Snipe, Moorhen and Green Sandpiper.
John was voted the spotter of the day after he found a Black-shouldered Kite sitting on an irrigation pipe. He also found a cracking band-winged dragonfly (Brachythemis leucosticta).
We left the marsh for late-morning coffee in a bar which had hundreds of hams hanging around it. A Common Redstart was found as we got back into the buses.
A stop at the estuary on the road out of Barbate was both squalid from the rubbish dumped at the roadside and brilliant for the birds. We were soon adding birds to our extensive list with Osprey, Sandwich Tern, Red Knot, Curlew and Oystercatcher. We also saw more Bar-tailed Godwit, Ringed and Kentish Plover, Yellow-legged, Lesser Black-backed and Black-headed Gull, Redshank, Sanderling, Curlew Sandpiper, and Dunlin.
After a typical Spanish siesta, swim and relaxation we visited the restored Roman settlement at Baelo Claudia, ostensibly to look at the ruins, but also sneaking the occasional glance at Sardinian and Willow warblers (scores of the latter) Crested and Thekla Larks, Montagu's Harrier and Serin. But it was the seabirds - passing Northern Gannet, Balearic and Cory's Shearwaters - which appealed to many. Angela found and pointed out a Hummingbird Hawk-moth.
Friday 27 September
Off to the Straits again, this time via the Playa de los Lances where a Little Owl was out on a stable roof waiting for us. After watching it for some time we set off across the beach where Northern Wheatear and Yellow Wagtail had dropped in from their migrations. Another fly-past Tawny Pipit was recorded but again the bird did not stop.
Audouin's Gull is a speciality of the area and we were able to study several in a mixed roost. Some were carrying white rings for field identification. Sandwich Tern was found but sadly there was no sign of Lesser Crested Tern which we had hoped for.
Waders were in ample supply, however, and we had good views of Red Knot, Sanderling, Dunlin, Ringed and Kentish plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Redshank and Turnstone.
As we were leaving, a group of warblers in a prickly pear hedge attracted attention and we were able see Cetti's, Reed and Willow Warblers well. Neil suddenly picked up a Bluethroat which gave superb views for several minutes.
A short stop at another gull roost produced nothing new and we retired to Tarifa for coffee. A walk onto the breakwater produced superb views of shoaling Grey Mullet and added Common Tern and Whimbrel to the trip list. A few Balearic Shearwaters, Gannet and Sandwich Tern were seen but the light was horrible and a mist hung over the water so we headed for the hills.
Cazalla viewpoint was teeming with raptors as we arrived and we were able to practice our new-found identification skills on Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, Kestrel and Hobby, Common and Honey Buzzard before leaving for a well-earned siesta.
Our last outing was really just to say that we had visited Cape Trafalgar when the 200th anniversary of the sea battle is celebrated in 2005, but it turned into a birding bonanza. Balearic and Cory's shearwaters were tanking past from the outset and there were gluts of Gannets and tons of terns (Sandwich) going past. A dark-phase Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger) was the last new bird of the trip bringing our total to 173 species for the week, quite a good result.
Saturday 28 September
Little birding is possible on the trip from Zahara to Seville but a few goodies were spotted from the buses. Flocks of Greater Flamingos, several Black-winged Stilts and a Spoonbill were seen just north of Cadiz while our comfort stop produced an Egyptian Grasshopper found by Greta.

ANNOTATED SPECIES LIST

BIRDS
GREBES Podicipediformes Podicipedidae
Little Grebe El Rocío, three on 22nd, Coto de Doñana (10 on 23rd);
Tachybaptus ruficollis	Laguna de Medina (100 on 24th)
Great Crested Grebe	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Podiceps cristatus
Black-necked (Eared) Grebe	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Podiceps nigricollis
SHEARWATERS & PETRELS Procellariiformes Procellariidae
Cory's Shearwater	Zahara (6 on 25th); Baelo Claudia (1 on 26th)
Calonectris diomedea	Cape Trafalgar (20 on 27th)
Balearic (Mediterranean) Shearwater	Zahara (2 on 25th); Baelo Claudia (1 on 26th)
Puffinus mauretanicus	Cape Trafalgar (50 on 27th)
GANNETS Pelecaniformes Sulidae
Northern Gannet	Zahara area, common from the beach daily
Morus bassanus	Cape Trafalgar (50 on 27th)
CORMORANTS Pelecaniformes Phalacrocoracidae
Great Cormorant	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd); Barbate estuary (5 on 26th)
Phalacrocorax carbo
HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS Ciconiiformes Ardeidae
Grey Heron	Common daily in Andalucía; Barbate estuary (5 on 26th)
Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron	Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd)
Ardea purpurea
Great Egret	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Ardea alba
Little Egret	El Rocío (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd);
Egretta garzetta	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th); Barbate estuary (5 on 26th)
Squacco Heron	Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd)
Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret	El Rocío (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (120 on 23rd)
Bubulcus ibis	Zahara area common daily
Black-crowned Night-heron	El Rocío (1 at daybreak on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (1 on
Nycticorax nycticorax	23rd)
STORKS Ciconiiformes Ciconiidae
Black Stork	Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd); various viewpoints (30 on
Ciconia nigra	25th)
White Stork	El Rocío (4 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (100 on 23rd);
Ciconia ciconia	Laguna de Medina (kettle on 24th)
IBIS & SPOONBILLS Ciconiiformes Threskiornithidae
Eurasian Spoonbill	El Rocío (4 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (100 on 23rd)
Platalea leucorodia
FLAMINGOS Phoenicopteriformes Phoenicopteridae
Greater Flamingo	El Rocío (300 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (300 on 23rd);
Phoenicopterus ruber	Laguna de Medina (200 on 24th); Barbate estuary (6 on 26th); small flocks seen from buses north of Cadiz on 28th.
SWANS, GEESE & DUCKS Anseriformes Anatidae
Greylag Goose	El Rocío (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd)
Anser anser
Eurasian Wigeon	El Rocío (4 on 22nd)
Anas penelope
Gadwall	El Rocío (40 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (75 on 23rd)
Anas strepera
Common Teal	El Rocío (15 on 22nd and 24th); Coto de Doñana (75 on
Anas crecca	23rd)
Mallard	Common in Doñana; Laguna de Medina (200 on 24th)
Anas platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail	El Rocío and Coto de Doñana (up to 30 daily)
Anas acuta
Garganey	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Anas querquedula
Northern Shoveler	El Rocío (40 on 22nd); Laguna de Medina (40 on 24th)
Anas clypeata
Marbled Teal	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Marmaronetta angustirostris
Red-crested Pochard	El Rocío (2 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (20 on 23rd);
Netta rufina	Laguna de Med12 (6 on 24th)
Common Pochard	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Aythya ferina
White-headed Duck	Laguna de Medina (20 on 24th)
Oxyura leucocephala
OSPREY Falconiformes Pandionidae
Osprey	Barbate estuary (2 on 26th); Tarifa one carrying a fish out
Pandion haliaetus	to sea on 27th, Zahara: one behind the hotel on 27th.
HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES Falconiformes Accipitridae
European Honey-buzzard	Various viewpoints (30 on 25th, 1 on 27th)
Pernis apivorus
Black-shouldered Kite	La Janda (1 on 26th)
Elanus caeruleus
Red Kite	El Rocío (3 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd)
Milvus milvus
Black Kite	El Rocío (2 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd)
Milvus migrans
Egyptian Vulture	Zahara (1 on 24th); Cazalla viewpoint (3 on 25th)
Neophron percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon	El Acebuche (16 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (30 on 23rd);
Gyps fulvus	Laguna de Medina (10 on 24th); common daily at the Straits
Short-toed Eagle	El Acebuche (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd);
Circaetus gallicus	Laguna de Medina (1 on 24th); Zahara (4 on 24th); Various viewpoints (25 on 25th)
Western Marsh-harrier	El Rocío (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (25 on 23rd)
Circus aeruginosus
Hen (Northern) Harrier	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Circus cyaneus
Montagu's Harrier	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (2 on
Circus pygargus	24th)
Eurasian Sparrowhawk	El Algarrobo (6 on 25th); Cazalla viewpoint (2 on 27th)
Accipiter nisus
Eurasian Buzzard	Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd); near Laguna de Medina (1
Buteo buteo	on 24th)
Long-legged Buzzard	Cazalla viewpoint (1 on 25th)
Buteo rufinus
Spanish (Imperial) Eagle	El Rocío (immature on 22nd leaders only); Coto de
Aquila adalberti	Doñana (1 on 23rd); Cazalla viewpoint (imm on 25th)
Bonelli's Eagle	Cazalla viewpoint (1 on 25th)
Hieraaetus fasciatus
Booted Eagle	El Acebrón (3 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd);
Hieraaetus pennatus	Laguna de Medina (2 on 24th)
FALCONS & CARACARAS Falconiformes Falconidae
Lesser Kestrel	Poor views of several from various viewpoints (5 on 25th)
Falco naumanni
Eurasian Kestrel	El Rocío (3 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (15 on 23rd);
Falco tinnunculus	Laguna de Medina (2 on 24th); common daily around the Straits.
Eurasian Hobby	Laguna de Medina (1 on 24th); various viewpoints (5 on
Falco subbuteo	25th)
Peregrine Falcon	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd seen twice); Sierra de la Plata
Falco peregrinus	(1 on 25th)
PHEASANTS & PARTRIDGES Galliformes Phasianidae
Red-legged Partridge	Near Laguna de Medina (11 on 24th); La Janda (40 on
Alectoris rufa	26th)
RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS Gruiformes Rallidae
Purple Swamphen	Laguna de Medina (11 at extreme distance on 24th)
Porphyrio porphyrio
Common Moorhen	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (1 on
Gallinula chloropus	24th)
Eurasian Coot	Abundant El Rocío, Coto de Donana and Laguna de
Fulica atra	Medina
OYSTERCATCHERS Charadriiformes Haematopodidae
Eurasian Oystercatcher	Barbate estuary (9 on 26th); Playa de los Lances (3 on
Haematopus ostralegus	27th)
AVOCETS & STILTS Charadriiformes Recurvirostridae
Black-winged Stilt	El Rocío (1,000 or more on 22nd and 23rd);
Himantopus himantopus	Laguna de Medina (100 on 24th)
Pied Avocet	Coto de Doñana (30 on 23rd)
Recurvirostra avosetta
PLOVERS & LAPWINGS Charadriiformes Charadriidae
Northern Lapwing	El Rocío (15 on 22nd, similar 23rd and 24th)
Vanellus vanellus
Grey (Black-bellied) Plover	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd)
Pluvialis squatarola
Common Ringed Plover	Coto de Doñana (40 on 23rd); El Rocío (2 on 24th)
Charadrius hiaticula	Barbate estuary (20 on 26th)
Little Ringed Plover	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd) ; El Rocío (1 on 24th)
Charadrius dubius
Kentish (Snowy) Plover	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); Zahara (5 on 25th)
Charadrius alexandrinus	Barbate estuary (6 on 26th)
SANDPIPERS Charadriiformes Scolopacidae
Common Snipe	El Rocío (5 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd)
Gallinago gallinago
Black-tailed Godwit	El Rocío (15 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (55 on 23rd)
Limosa limosa
Bar-tailed Godwit	Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd); Barbate estuary (60 on 26th)
Limosa lapponica
Whimbrel	Tarifa breakwater (1 on 27th)
Numenius phaeopus
Eurasian Curlew	Barbate estuary (1 on 26th)
Numenius arquata
Spotted Redshank	El Rocío (1 on 22nd leaders only); Coto de Doñana (35 on
Tringa erythropus	23rd)
Common Redshank	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); El Rocío (1 on 24th)
Tringa totanus	Barbate estuary (15 on 26th)
Common Greenshank	El Rocío (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (15 on 23rd)
Tringa nebularia	Barbate estuary (5 on 26th)
Green Sandpiper	El Acebuche (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (30 on 23rd)
Tringa ochropus	El Rocío (2 on 24th)
Wood Sandpiper	El Rocío (1 heard on 21st); Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Tringa glareola	La Janda (1 on 26th)
Common Sandpiper	El Rocío (3 on 22nd and 24th); Coto de Doñana (5 on 23rd)
Actitis hypoleucos	Playa de los Lances (2 0n 27th)
Ruddy Turnstone	Coto de Doñana (3 on 23rd); Playa de los Lances (1 on
Arenaria interpres	27th)
Red Knot	Barbate estuary (10 on 26th); Playa de los Lances (3 on
Calidris canutus	27th)
Sanderling	Zahara (3 on 25th); Barbate estuary (10 on 26th); Playa de
Calidris alba	los Lances (100 on 27th)
Little Stint	Common El Rocío and Coto de Doñana
Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper	Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd); El Rocío (2 on 24th)
Calidris ferruginea	Barbate estuary (7 on 26th)
Dunlin	Coto de Doñana (16 on 23rd); El Rocío (1 on 24th)
Calidris alpina	Barbate estuary (5 on 26th)
Ruff	El Rocío (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (25 on 23rd)
Philomachus pugnax
JAEGERS & SKUAS Charadriiformes Stercorariidae
Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger)	Cape Trafalgar (1 imm dark-phase on 27th)
Stercorarius parasiticus
GULLS Charadriiformes Laridae
Audouin's Gull	Playa de los Lances (109 on 27th)
Larus audouinii
Yellow-legged Gull	Common daily on the coast
Larus cachinnans
Lesser Black-backed Gull	El Rocío (4 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (60 on 23rd)
Larus fuscus	Common daily on the coast
Black-headed Gull	El Rocío (30 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (60 on 23rd)
Larus ridibundus	Laguna de Medina (1 on 24th); small numbers daily on the coast
TERNS Charadriiformes Sternidae
Sandwich Tern	Barbate estuary (1 on 26th); Tarifa harbour (20 on 27th)
Sterna sandvicensis	Cape Trafalgar (30 on 27th).
Common Tern	Tarifa harbour (2 on 27th)
Sterna hirundo
Little Tern	Coto de Doñana (50 on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (1 on
Sterna albifrons	24th); Barbate estuary (4 on 26th)
Black Tern	El Rocío (30 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (33 on 23rd);
Chlidonias niger	Laguna de Medina (50 on 24th)
PIGEONS & DOVES Columbiformes Columbidae
Rock Dove	Common in towns daily
Columba livia
Common Wood-pigeon	Coto de Doñana (35 on 23rd)
Columba palumbus
Eurasian Turtle-dove	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd); Zahara (1 on 24th,16 on 26th)
Streptopelia turtur
Eurasian Collared-dove	El Rocío (6 on 22nd and 23rd); Zahara, common daily
Streptopelia decaocto
OWLS Strigiformes Strigidae
Little Owl	Playa de los Lances (1 on 27th)
Athene noctua
SWIFTS Apodiformes Apodidae
Alpine Swift	Zahara (1 on 25th, La Janda marshes (12 on 26th)
Tachymarptis melba	Cape Trafalgar (6 on 27th)
Common Swift	Laguna de Medina (3 on 24th)
Apus apus
Pallid Swift	Seville Airport (60 on 21st); El Rocío (1 on 24th)
Apus pallidus	La Janda (2 on 26th); Cazalla viewpoint (6 on 27th)
White-rumped Swift	Above Baelo Claudia (1 on 25th)
Apus caffer
KINGFISHERS Coraciiformes Alcedinidae
Common Kingfisher	El Rocío (3 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (5 on 23rd)
Alcedo atthis	La Janda (1 on 26th)
BEE-EATERS Coraciiformes Meropidae
European Bee-eater	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (60 on 25th)
Merops apiaster
HOOPOES Coraciiformes Upupidae
Eurasian Hoopoe	Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd); transit (1 on 24th)
Upupa epops
WOODPECKERS Piciformes Picidae
Great Spotted Woodpecker	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (2 on 25th)
Dendrocopos major
LARKS Passeriformes Alaudidae
Calandra Lark	Coto de Doñana (200+ on 23rd); La Janda (14 on 26th)
Melanocorypha calandra
Greater Short-toed Lark	La Janda (1 on 26th)
Calandrella brachydactyla
Lesser Short-toed Lark	Coto de Doñana (30 on 23rd)
Calandrella rufescens
Crested Lark	El Rocío (2 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (40 on 23rd);
Galerida cristata	in transit (6 on 24th); common daily on the coast
Thekla Lark	El Acebuche (4 on 22nd); Baelo Claudia (3 on 26th)
Galerida theklae
Wood Lark	Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd)
Lullula arborea
Sky Lark	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Alauda arvensis
SWALLOWS Passeriformes Hirundinidae
Sand Martin (Bank Swallow)	El Rocío (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd);
Riparia riparia	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Crag Martin	Above Baelo Claudia (2 on 25th)
Hirundo rupestris
Barn Swallow	El Rocío area (40 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (100 on 23rd)
Hirundo rustica	in transit (100 on 24th); passage daily on the coast
Red-rumped Swallow	El Acebrón (30 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (13 on 23rd)
Hirundo daurica	Cazalla viewpoint (12 on 25th)
House Martin	El Rocío area (400 on 22nd, 23rd and 24th); Laguna de
Delichon urbica	Medina (200 on 24th); common daily on the coast
WAGTAILS & PIPITS Passeriformes Motacillidae
Yellow Wagtail	Coto de Doñana (10 on 23rd); El Rocío (2 on 24th)
Motacilla flava	La Janda (16 on 26th)
Grey Wagtail	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); in transit (1 on 24th)
Motacilla cinerea	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (1 on 25th)
Tawny Pipit	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (2 on
Anthus campestris	24th)
Tree Pipit	La Janda (2 flew over on 26th)
Anthus trivialis
KINGLETS Passeriformes Regulidae
Firecrest	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (16 on 25th)
Regulus ignicapillus
WRENS Passeriformes Troglodytidae
Winter Wren	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (2 on 25th)
Troglodytes troglodytes
ACCENTORS Passeriformes Prunellidae
Dunnock	Zahara (1 on 24th)
Prunella modularis
THRUSHES Passeriformes Turdidae
Blue Rock-thrush	Above Baelo Claudia (3 on 25th); Baelo Claudia (1 on
Monticola solitarius	26th)
Eurasian Blackbird	El Rocío (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); in
Turdus merula	transit (1 on 24th)
CISTICOLAS Passeriformes Cisticolidae
Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler)	El Acebuche (2 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (20 on 23rd)
Cisticola juncidis	Laguna de Medina (2 on 24th)
OLD WORLD WARBLERS Passeriformes Sylviidae
Cetti's Warbler	El Acebrón (10 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd);
Cettia cetti	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Sedge Warbler	Coto de Doñana (1 scolding on 23rd)
Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Eurasian Reed-warbler	Coto de Doñana (1 scolding on 23rd); Laguna de Medina
Acrocephalus scirpaceus	(1 on 24th); Playa de los Lances (1 on 27th)
Melodious Warbler	El Rocío (1 on 24th); Zahara (2 on 24th)
Hippolais polyglotta
Willow Warbler	Common daily; Baelo Claudia (25 on 26th)
Phylloscopus trochilus
Common Chiffchaff	A few most days
Phylloscopus collybita
Iberian Chiffchaff	El Acebrón (2 on 22nd)
Phylloscopus brehmii
Western Bonelli's Warbler	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd)
Phylloscopus bonelli
Blackcap	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (2 on 25th)
Sylvia atricapilla
Garden Warbler	El Acebrón (3 on 22nd); Laguna de Medina (2 on 24th)
Sylvia borin
Greater Whitethroat	Laguna de Medina (3 on 24th); La Janda (2 on 26th)
Sylvia communis
Subalpine Warbler	El Rocío (1 on 22nd)
Sylvia cantillans
Sardinian Warbler	El Rocío area (10 on 22nd); Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Sylvia melanocephala
Spectacled Warbler	El Rocío (1 on 23rd)
Sylvia conspicillata
Dartford Warbler	El Acebuche (3 on 22nd)
Sylvia undata
OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS Passeriformes Muscicapidae
Spotted Flycatcher	El Acebrón (3 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (10 on 23rd)
Muscicapa striata	in transit (1 on 24th)
European Pied Flycatcher	Most abundant migrant passerine with up to 50 seen
Ficedula hypoleuca	daily. Eg: El Rocío area (10 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (50 on 23rd)
European Robin	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (4 on 25th)
Erithacus rubecula
Bluethroat	Playa de los Lances (1 on 27th)
Luscinia svecica
Common Redstart	Vejer de la Frontera (1 on 26th)
Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Whinchat	Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd); La Janda (6 on 26th)
Saxicola rubetra
Common Stonechat	El Rocío area (10 on 22nd); travelling (6 on 24th)
Saxicola torquata	La Janda and road to Baelo Claudia (20 on 26th)
Northern Wheatear	Coto de Doñana (4 on 23rd); La Janda (3 on 26th)
Oenanthe oenanthe
LONG-TAILED TITS Passeriformes Aegithalidae
Long-tailed Tit	El Acebrón (6 on 22nd)
Aegithalos caudatus
CHICKADEES & TITS Passeriformes Paridae
Crested Tit	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd) Huerta Grande interpretation
Lophophanes cristatus	centre (1 on 25th)
Great Tit	El Rocío area (10 on 22nd)
Parus major
Blue Tit	Coto de Doñana (2 calling on 23rd)
Cyanistes caeruleus
NUTHATCHES Passeriformes Sittidae
Nuthatch	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (1 on 25th)
Sitta europaea
CREEPERS Passeriformes Certhiidae
Short-toed Treecreeper	El Acebrón (6 on 22nd); Huerta Grande interpretation
Certhia brachydactyla	centre (60 on 25th)
SHRIKES Passeriformes Laniidae
Southern Grey Shrike	El Acebuche (1 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd)
Lanius meridionalis
Woodchat Shrike	Coto de Doñana (2 juvs on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (juv.
Lanius senator	on 24th)
CROWS & JAYS Passeriformes Corvidae
Azure-winged Magpie	El Acebuche (30 on 22nd); El Rocío (15 on 24th)
Cyanopica cyana
Black-billed Magpie	El Acebuche (6 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (6 on 23rd)
Pica pica	Laguna de Medina (6 on 24th)
Eurasian Jackdaw	Laguna de Medina 40 on 24th); Barbate (10 on 24th)
Corvus monedula	La Janda (30 on 25th)
Common Raven	El Rocío area (5 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (7 on 23rd)
Corvus corax	Laguna de Medina (3 on 24th); La Janda (5 on 26th)
STARLINGS Passeriformes Sturnidae
Spotless Starling	El Rocío (50 on 22nd); Coto de Doñana (50 on 23rd);
Sturnus unicolor	Laguna de Medina (50+ on 24th); common daily on the coast
OLD WORLD SPARROWS Passeriformes Passeridae
House Sparrow	El Rocío area, Laguna de Medina, Zahara area
Passer domesticus	abundant
Eurasian Tree Sparrow	Coto de Doñana (scores in flocks of other finches and
Passer montanus	sparrows on 23rd)
FINCHES Passeriformes Fringillidae
Chaffinch	Laguna de Medina (1 on 24th); La Janda (12 on 26th)
Fringilla coelebs
Red Crossbill	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (6 on 25th)
Loxia curvirostra
European Greenfinch	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); La Janda (30 on 26th)
Carduelis chloris
European Goldfinch	El Acebuche (40 on 22nd); El Rocío (30 on 24th)
Carduelis carduelis	Common daily on the coast
Eurasian Linnet	Coto de Doñana (6 in flocks of other finches on 23rd)
Carduelis cannabina	La Janda (50 on 26th)
European Serin	Coto de Doñana (5 in flocks of other finches on 23rd)
Serinus serinus	Baelo Claudia (3 on 26th)
Hawfinch	Huerta Grande interpretation centre (4 on 25th)
Coccothraustes coccothraustes
BUNTINGS, SEEDEATERS & ALLIES Passeriformes Emberizidae
Ortolan Bunting	La Janda (3 on 26th); Playa de los Lances (1 flew over on
Emberiza hortulana	27th)
Corn Bunting	Coto de Doñana (2 on 23rd); La Janda (small flocks on
Emberiza calandra	26th)
Reed Bunting	Coto de Doñana (1 on 23rd); Laguna de Medina (1 on
Emberiza schoeniclus	24th)
MAMMALS
RABBITS & HARES Lagomorpha Leporidae
European Rabbit	In transit (3 on 24th); La Janda (3 on 26th)
Oryctolagus cuniculus
European Hare	Playa de los Lances (1 on 27th)
Lepus europaeus
MICE, RATS, VOLES & GERBILS Rodentia Muridae
Long-tailed Field (Wood) Mouse	La Janda (1 on 26th)
Apodemus sylvaticus
CATS Carnivora Felidae
Small-spotted Genet	Scats found at Palacio del Acebrón, 23rd
Genetta genetta
DOGS & FOXES Carnivora Canidae
Red Fox	El Rocío (1 on 22nd, 1 dead on road on 24th)
Vulpes vulpes
HEDGEHOGS Lipotyphla Erinaceidae
Western European Hedgehog	Outside Tarifa, one dead on 26th
Erinaceus europaeus
APES Primates Hominidae
Human	Three sightings of the 'naked ape' (3 females at Claudio Baelo on
Homo sapiens	25th; two males at Zahara de los Atunes beach on 27th, and a pair at Cape Trafalgar on 27th)
PIGS Artiodactyla Suidae
Wild Boar (Feral Pig)	Rootlings by these animals at Palacio del Acebrón, 23rd
Sus scrofa
DEER Artiodactyla Cervidae
Red Deer	Across the lagoon at El Rocío (several on 22nd, 15 on 23rd)
Cervus elaphus
Fallow Deer	Daily across the lagoon at El Rocío, max 30+ on 23rd
Dama dama
OTHER VERTEBRATES
Mullet sp	.
Mugil sp.	Many (probably tens of) thousands massing on the surface in the tide race off Tarifa harbour on 27th.
Moray Eel sp	.
Mulgus sp.	Two dead on the beach at Zahara de los Atunes on 27th.
HERPTILES
Stripeless Tree Frog
Hyla meridionalis	One heard calling in the El Acebrón area on 22nd.
Iberian Pool Frog
Rana perezi	Heard daily calling at El Rocío from 21st - 24th, and seen there on the last date.
Moorish Gecko
Tarentola mauretanica	At the Hotel Antonio, c. 10 on 24th and smaller numbers on 25th and 26th.
Large Psammodromus
Psammodromus algirus	Just one small one at Huerta Grande on 25th.
Spiny-footed Lizard
Acanthodactylus erythrurus	Just one juvenile at El Acebrón on 22nd.
Iberian Wall Lizard
Podarcis hispanica	4+ at El Acebuche on 22nd, 3 at Huerta Grande on 25th and 1 at Baelo Claudia on 26th.
Snake sp	. A complete shed skin in the dunes on the Playa de los Lances on 27th.
BUTTERFLIES
Swallowtail Papilio machaon	Two at El Algarrobo and one at Cazalla on 25th, 3 at Baelo Claudia on 26th and 2 on 27th.
Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius	One at the Laguna de Medina on 24th.
Large White Pieris brassicae	Ones or twos on 23rd and 25th - 27th.
Clouded Yellow Colias croceus	One - three+ on 25th - 27th.
Lang's Short-tailed Blue Leptotes pirithous	c. 6 at El Acebrón on 22nd, 2+ at El Algarrobo on 25th and 1 at Zahara de los Atunes on 26th.
Common Blue Polyommatus icarus	c. 6 at El Acebrón on 22nd, 2+ at El Algarrobo on 25th and 1 at Zahara de los Atunes on 26th.
Monarch Danaus plexippus	Singles en route, at Huerta Grande and at El Algarrobo on 25th, one at Baelo Claudia on 26th and 1 at the Playa de los Lances on 27th. The population here in the Strait has apparently only been settled and breeding for the last 6 years.
Two-tailed Pasha Charaxes jasius	One rather worn individual in the Sierra de la Plata on 25th.
Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta	Two - three daily from 22nd - 27th.
Painted Lady Cynthia cardui	One on 22nd, 3 on 23rd, several on 25th, 6 on 26th and 2 on 27th.
Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina	One+ on 24th, 2+ on 25th and 6 on both 26th and 27th.
Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria	Two at Huerta Grande on 25th.
DRAGONFLIES
Iberian Blue-tailed Damselfly Ischnura graelsii	Several in the El Rocío and Doñana areas on 22nd and 23rd.
Lesser Emperor Anax parthenope	The only common (and positively identified) large dragonfly in the Doñana area on 22nd and 23rd, with several in La Janda on 25th.
Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombei	Very common, with large numbers (100+ daily) in the Doñana area on 22nd and 23rd, and also seen in the Strait of Gibraltar area from 25th - 27th.
Band-winged dragonfly sp. Brachythemis leucosticta	6 on the track across La Janda on 26th.
OTHER INSECTS
Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum	Three at Zahara de los Atunes on 26th and one there the following day.
Crimson Speckled Utethesia pulchella	Five of this small but delicately marked species at El Acebuche on 22nd.
Egyptian Grasshopper Anacridium aegyptium	Singles at Huerta Grande on 25th and Zahara de los Atunes on 26th.
Grasshopper spp. Acrididae	One on 22nd, and both blue-winged and red-winged grasshoppers at the Laguna de Medina on 24th and in the Strait of Gibraltar area on 25th.
Praying Mantis Mantis religiosa	One at Zahara de los Atunes on 25th.
Digger / Spider-hunting wasp sp. Sphecidae / Pompilidae	A large and unpleasant-looking individual was gently removed from the second bus on the way to Cape Trafalgar on 27th.
Social wasp sp. Vespidae	Abundant on 22nd.
Hornet Vespa crabro	One on 26th.
Scarab Beetle Scarabaeus sp.	Noted on five days in different locations.
Weevil sp. Coleoptera	A couple in the hotel in El Rocío on 23rd.
OTHER INVERTEBRATES
Tick sp. Acarina	Singles on Tim on 25th and at Cazalla on 27th.
Millipede sp. Diplopoda	Several, similar to Schizophyllum sabulosumat Baelo Claudia on 26th.
Fiddler Crab Uca tangeri	This is the only fiddler crab species in Europe and restricted to S Iberia; Lots on the sandy mud in the Barbate estuary on 26th.

PLANTS
A few flowers were of particular note: the superb Sea Daffodils Pancratium maritimum on the dunes at the Cabo de Trafalgar, where Sea Stock Matthiola sinuata and Sea Holly Eryngium maritimum were also present. Squirting Cucumber Ecballium elaterium was frequent in rough ground and both Autumn Squill Scilla autumnalis and Sea Squill Urginea maritima were quite widespread.

© The Travelling Naturalist 2002