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TRAVELLING NATURALIST TRIP REPORT26 May - 2 June 2001Leaders: Christy Browne Trip Diary Saturday 26th
May Dark clouds
greeted us at Shannon Airport as we met Christy, and it was actually starting
to rain as we headed out to the airport lagoon. However there were masses of birds here, and the count of
Black-tailed Godwits reached an amazing 700.
On the lagoon approach road a yellow mini-bus marked 'Airport Police'
charged up to us, and the chap asked us what we were doing. I thought it a good start to get both
soaking wet and arrested in the first ten minutes of the trip! We then headed
off to the golf course for a rather wet walk, however with good views of an
Irish Hare on the course. We walked out
to the hide behind the golf course but it was sadly locked; however there were
good views of waders here. It had
really come on to rain heavily and so we didn't take a look at the mud
flats. It took us about
an hour and a quarter to drive up to Lisdoonvarna where we had an excellent
welcome and meal, although as we traipsed in soaking wet and muddy the landlady
rather pointedly extolled the virtues of her drying room for our wet gear and
boots. In the evening a Grasshopper
Warbler was heard reeling from a nearby field. Sunday 27th
May A damp but mild
start to the day, and the early morning walk in light rain was very productive
with a singing Blackcap and a Siskin new for the trip in this area. We also saw fine Fox looking back at us
from the over the Spectacle Bridge. After breakfast
Christy met us again and we headed down to Kilfenora Cathedral where we saw the
usual Swifts and many Jackdaws nesting in the nearby houses. Christy explained the long fifteen hundred
year history of habitation here. One
of Christy's friends(I suspect most of County Clare count themselves amongst
this number) opened the Burren display especially for us. It was being extensively refurbished but we
climbed in amongst the building equipment to visit the loos. Christy's friend asked us if we were going
to be long, to which Christy replied "Well, we're not going to be all day
here." We then went on
to a ring-fort, Cahermacnaughton where we saw Whitethroat and the first of many
Cuckoos. Christy explained this was
where a law school for the Brehon Laws, the old Celtic law, was held. Amongst other things it gave equal property
rights to women and is generally regarded as being somewhat ahead of its
time. We visited
Noughaval Market Cross where we had brief glimpses of a pair of Siskins and
Christy explained how the marks on the cross were used to measure cloth many
years ago. We then drove up to the
coast at Ballyvaughan and the displays at 'Burren Exposure' on geology, history
and the plants. We also had a chance
to look off-shore at the Common Tern colony and saw a nice group of loafing
Common Seals with one Grey Seal, unusual in this area. However the rain
was coming on and it continued as we had lunch in the mini-bus. After lunch we walked alongside Abbey
Hill. This was the Burren proper and
we saw early Purple Orchids and many Spring Gentians, although only a few were
fully out, and towards the end of the walk masses of Mountain Avens. The walk follows a contour line alongside
the hill with superb views out across Galway Bay. At the end of the
walk we eventually met Christy and he took us the Mrua Gallery and tearooms
where we saw our first House Sparrows of the day. We finished off at Corcomroe Abbey looking at its wonderful
botanical stone carvings and interesting history. We drove back home via Corkscrew Hill and Gregans Wood where there
was a fine display of Mossy Saxifrage across the road. Monday 28th
May Rain greeted us
again this morning, and we decided to go to Ennistymon first. At the falls we walked down the river
seeing Grey Wagtails, but only seeing the Irish Dippers on the way back. We had excellent views of a pair visiting
their nest under a ledge on the main fall.
We waited for
Christy to return in the high street, during which time we were nearly arrested
for the second time this trip. The
Garda seemed oddly suspicious of a group of people with scopes, and we were
told not to film..but what?. Suddenly,
soldiers with flak jackets and automatic weapons appeared out of nowhere and we
realised that this was standard procedure for a delivery of cash to one of the
town banks! We noticed that
the wind had got up as we drove round to the Cliffs of Moher. When we got there, there was a full gale
blowing into the cliffs and it was actually hard to stand up, never mind see
the thousands of Guillemots and Kittiwakes on the ledges. We beat a strategic retreat but as we drove
away we saw two Chough feeding on the grassy slope above us. We then headed to
Poll Sallach via Doolin hoping the weather will have calmed for our crossing to
Inisheer in two days time. At the
coast we looked down the grykes in the limestone pavements for Sea Spleenwort
and walked across to some turfed areas for Irish Saxifrage where we saw just
the last few flowers, but here there were sheets of orchids, mostly
Heath-spotted but a few Northern Marsh Orchids. The Bloody Cranesbill and Golden Rod together with a blue stormy
sea produced wonderful colours in the bright sunshine. However the wind
was tiring and we soon headed off to Bridie's for soup, wonderful scones and a
warm welcome. After this we went the
short distance to Fullacht Fia, an ancient cooking place. Christy told us how this was worked and we
saw several new plants including Sanicle and Wood Sorrel, relics of the
woodland flora that used to cover this now barren area. The Bee-Orchid fields have been sadly
'improved' with fertiliser and there was another agricultural development in the form of a herd of Alpacas further
along. We then headed
along to Black Head for a look at the Maidenhair Ferns there and noticed many
sea birds in Galway Bay just around the corner from the wind. Most of them were Sandwich Terns. There were at least seventy, possibly up to
a hundred in view fishing in the bay, and two or three Gannet giving excellent
views. Best of all were two Great
Northern Divers, one in full breeding plumage. We finished up with a walk at the Rine where it was rather too
windy, but we saw a few waders including Ringed Plover, and two Rock Doves
flying by. We returned rather tired
and windblown but having had a good day. Tuesday 29th
May It was cloudy and
with still quite a fresh westerly wind as we set out for Lough Bunny. From the van we saw Mistle Thrush and
Bullfinch briefly, and on the lough there were Common Sandpipers and a Great
Crested Grebe. It was too windy for
many dragonflies but we saw Four-spotted Libellula and Common Blue Damselfly,
as well as a couple of frogs. We also
identified Marsh Speedwell, a new plant for the list. We then headed
onto Kilmacduagh with its huge rocket-shaped round tower surrounded by a
cluster of churches and other monastic buildings. Here we went inside the Glebe House where a huge pile of sticks
had been left by Jackdaws on the floor.
As at Kilfenora there were several Swifts flying about. We explored this remarkable group of ruins,
hearing Chiffchaff from nearby trees, before heading for Gort and an excellent
seafood chowder at O'Grady's popular local pub. We then retraced
our steps to Mullagh Mor where the 'turloughs' still held water as well as a
few Mallard, together with a single Lapwing defending its territory against a Hooded
Crow. Here too a Yellowhammer sang,
another new bird for the trip. The
Shrubby Cinquefoil was abundant here, some bushes with many flowers, and there
were other new plants including Lesser Meadow Rue. Christy then
showed us the devastation caused by the aborted Visitor Centre. Apparently this cost a million pounds to
put up, and then the same contractor charged 0.85 million to demolish it! We then headed back to Kilnaboy Church for
its distinctive double cross and a Shelagh Nagig, over which we shall draw a
veil. We then went to
Lemanagh Castle and Christy told us the story of Mary Rua. Finally across the high Burren in superb
sunshine we stopped at Poulnabroe Portal Tomb. On the way down to Ballyvaughan we stopped at the earthen ring
fort of Ballyalavaen where few butterflies, mainly Green-veined Whites,
together with a few Hairy Dragonflies were taking advantage of the sun and
shelter. In the evening a
small group of us went off to the Royal Spa to do the set dancing, but unfortunately
the classes were not exactly for beginners.
Chris's comment about my efforts was 'what he lacked in skill he more
than made up for in enthusiasm'- but I thought Anne & Chris did splendidly! However we were only allowed one set before
being politely dismissed so that the local experts could have a go unimpeded. Wednesday 30th
May We headed for
Doolin in overcast conditions. While
waiting for the ferry we saw 15 Sand Martins hawking insects on the beach,
and we watched a Black Guillemot in the bay.
Just as we got onto the 'Happy Hooker', our ferry, two Chough flew over
us. The ferry was
busy with over seventy people on board.
We stowed luggage under cover and went to the after-deck. The crossing was a bit lively at first and
it was very difficult to see any birds, however a few auks went past. But the sun came
out as we headed out across the islands and it was to be a glorious day. We landed on Inishmaan at 11 o'clock and
decided to walk round the sheltered east side of the island, an inspired idea
from Christy. We had only gone a few
yards when I noticed two Great Northern Divers offshore. Again these were in superb breeding plumage
and not very far away. It was really
quite warm as we walked along, and the flowers were excellent , including
Babbington's Leek and Dune Pansy, and there were also many butterflies,
including Wood White and Small Blue.
At one point we came upon a busy colony of Transparent Burnet Moths, an
excellent find. It was a splendid
walk past the small flowery stonewalled hay fields. On the way back we found a patch of Purple Milk-Vetch, these
islands being only place it grows in Ireland.
We then walked up
to the café for lunch and were given a warm welcome by a lady called Vilma who
is from Guatemala, would you believe?
The views from the caféwere stunning and it was delightful to sit and
just watch the weather. After lunch we
walked across the island past thatched cottages in varying states of repair,
and Christy stopping to converse with the locals in Irish. Towards Synge's Chair we had views of
Inishmore, and then headed back via the knitwear factory to the quay… and still
the sun shone. We caught the
4.30 boat across to Inisheer and were met by Pedar Poil and his tractor. Pedar took our bags and two of the clients
up the hill to Brid's guesthouse while the rest strolled up. Brid's house is in a truly wonderful
setting with panoramic views across the tiny stone walled field of Inisheer
across the Sound to the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher and on a clear day the
mountains of Kerry to the south. We
were welcomed with tea and scones and sat gawping at the views in the lovely
evening light. The superb and filling
dinner of roast lamb made a wonderful end to the day. Thursday 31st
May The early morning
walkers were treated to sunshine and close views of two Chough flying in and
out of the look-out tower. After an
incredibly filling breakfast of kippers and porridge we walked to the southeast
lighthouse with many butterflies including Orange-tip and Grizzled Skipper on
the way. The meadows here were superb
and full of flowers especially where there had been old potato fields. Near the lighthouse we saw Raven,
Oystercatcher and Turnstone and then headed back on a rather rough walk across
the boulders before regaining the road.
Climbing up the
hill towards Brid's we had views of the lake with a brood of eight signets and
two broods of Mallard Ducklings. One
of the most memorable features of this walk were the Cuckoos, up to three were
seen flying around together calling continuously and including the bubbling
call of the female. Christy reckoned
there were fewer than last year, though, when the Cuckoos woke them up at 4.30
in the morning. We learnt to say 'good
morning' in Irish and to reply to it to one or more people, but I don't think I
could spell either greeting. After a superb
lunch of smoked salmon some opted to nurse their feet from this morning while
others walked down to the church in the sand.
Here we found many Bee and Pyramidal Orchids in bud. Out at the Plassey wreck we were greeted to
a display of two Choughs attacking a Raven before we headed back in increasing
cloud and showers. Friday 1st
June It was dull but
relatively calm as we walked down to the Quay. Our first cetacean of the trip, a Bottle-nosed Dolphin was in
the harbour and showed a couple of times.
We looked at a Neolithic site where many Pyramidal Orchids were
beginning to show and Cuckoos were again much in evidence. This time we saw a flock of four together
and three Curlew also flew over. It
was a cold westerly wind as we walked along the shore through a lunar landscape
of barren rock and we headed back via the Holy Well and St. Gobnait's Chapel
and back to the Quay and time for a quick coffee in 'Tígh Ned's'. On the 12.30 boat, calmer waters near
Inisheer gave us excellent views of Guillemot, Razorbill, Black Guillemot and
other sea birds with two distant Manx Shearwaters. We landed at
Doolin as a group of Morris dancers from Suffolk were about to embark in full
kit. We headed for the Doolin Craft
Centre for lunch and then set off for the Cliffs of Moher. It was much better this time and we had
good views of all the auks on the ledges including the Puffins and superb views
of Choughs down to twenty feet just along the cliff tops. We also saw Roseroot growing down the
cliff. Then we had the short journey
back to Lisdoonvarna and finished with a visit to the smokery in the fine late
afternoon sunshine. Saturday
2nd June After
paying our farewells to Kincora House, we headed for the Craggaunown Project,
where our guide took us to see the Castle, the Crannog, the Ring Fort and St.
Brendan's Boat. On the lake there were
Little Grebe and there was Chiffchaff singing in the woods. After
coffee we headed for the airport and said our farewells. Species lists
Birds Great Northern Diver Two off Black Head, 28 May, 2 at Inishmaan Harbour, 30 May Little Grebe One at Craggaunowen Lake on 2 June. Great Crested Grebe One at Lough Bunny, 29 May. Fulmar Manx Shearwater Two between Doolin and Inisheer on 1 June. Gannet Cormorant Recorded in small numbers daily. Shag
Grey Heron Up to 6 noted daily, including on Inisheer. Mute Swan 50+ at Shannon Lagoon on 26 May. A pair at Loch Mor on Inisheer with 8 cygnets. Shelduck Mallard Kestrel Coot Oystercatcher One at The Rine, 28 May. Up to 5 Inisheer. Northern Lapwing One at Mullach Mor 29 May. Ringed Plover 3 at Poll Sallach and one at The Rine, 28 May. Singles on Inishmaan and Inisheer. Black~tailed Godwit Curlew Common Sandpiper 2 Lough Bunny, 29 May. Turnstone 3 on Inisheer on 31 May. Dunlin Common Gull Several in Lough Bunny area. Seen from both Inishmaan and Inisheer. Great Black~backed Gull Recorded daily by the coast, both Inishmaan and Inisheer. Herring Gull Common. Mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Lesser Black-backed Gull Up to 3 noted 4 days, mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Black~headed Gull Recorded daily mainland. One off Inisheer, 1 June. Kittiwake Common at the Cliffs of Moher and in flocks at sea, off Inishmaan and Inisheer. Sandwich Tern At least 70 in Galway Bay off Black Head, 28 May. Two off Inisheer, 31 May. Common Tern Min 30 on the Gall Island colony off Whitethorn. The Inisheer colony had disappeared. Guillemot Lrge numbers at the Cliffs of Moher. Seen from boat, and both Inishmaan and Inisheer Razorbill Many onhe Cliffs of Moher. Also from boat. Black Guillemot 2 off Doolin 30 May and from boat. Puffin Rock Dove Two past The Rine, 28 May. Flock of 9 Inishmaan. Wood Pigeon Collared Dove Noted 4 days, Lisdoonvarna, Ballyvaughan and Corcomroe Cuckoo Swift Skylark Sand Martin Barn Swallow Common daily mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. House Martin Seen daily on mainland. Pied Wagtail Common daily mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Grey Wagtail Seen Lisdoonvarna, Ennistymon and Lough Bunny. Meadow Pipit Rock Pipit Noted along the coast. More seen Inishmaan and Inisheer. Dipper Irish race Wren Dunnock Blackbird Common daily mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Song Thrush Seen daily mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Mistle Thrush Robin Stonechat Northern Wheatear Seen Abbey Hill, Poll Sallagh and Inishmaan and Inisheer, where up to 10 daily. Grasshopper Warbler Sedge Warbler Two or three at Shannon Lagoon 26 May. Common Whitethroat Recorded at Abbey Hill, Mullagh Mor, Lough Bunny and Doolin. Blackcap Willow Warbler Noted four days on mainland Chiffchaff Heard at Kilmacduagh on 29 May and Craggaunowen on 2 June. Goldcrest Heard in the woodland at Lisdoonvarna on two days. Great Tit Noted four days only, including one Inishmaan. Blue Tit Magpie Red-billed Chough Two at Cliffs of Moher on 28 May, and again on 1 June. Two at Doolin 30 May. Two pairs Inisheer, in the Plassey Wreck and Lookout Tower. Jackdaw Rook Hooded Crow Common daily mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. Raven Starling Yellowhammer One singing Mullagh Mor, 29 May. Reed Bunting Present at Shannon lagoon on 26 May and at Lough Bunny 29 May and Lisdoonvarna. Chaffinch Greenfinch Siskin Goldfinch Two at Noughaval Market Cross, 27 May. One Inishmaan. Linnet House Sparrow Seen daily in small nos; mainland, Inishmaan and Inisheer. MAMMALS
Red Fox Common Seal 20+ at Gall Island off Whitethorn and one off Inisheer. Grey Seal One at Gall Island. Bottle-nosed Dolphin One Inisheer Harbour, 1 June. Feral Goat Irish Hare Lepus timidus hibernicus Rabbit AMPHIBIANS
Common Frog Two at Lough Bunny. BUTTERFLIES
Large White Small White Inishmaan, Inisheer Green-veined White Ballyalavan Brimstone Wood White Inishmaan Small Copper Common Blue Polyommatus icarus mariscolore
Small Blue Abbey Hill, Inishmaan. Speckled Wood Ballyalavan Wall Brown Abbey Hill, and both Inishmaan and Inisheer. Grizzled Skipper Several Inisheer, 31 May. MOTHS
Yellow Shell Common Heath Moth Cinnabar Moth Transparent Burnet Several on Inishmaan in a sheltered site. Many larvae and pupae of Burnet moth sp. on Inisheer. Garden Tiger Caterpillar on Inishmaan White Ermine One at Brid's Drinker Moth Lackey Moth Caterpillars on Inisheer OTHER INSECTS
Buff tailed
Bumblebee White tailed
Bumblebee Red tailed
Bumblebee Rose Chafer Hairy Dragonfly 4-spotted Chaser Dragonfly Lough Bunny Blue-tailed Damselfly Lough Bunny Common Blue Damselfly Loch Bunny FLOWERS
26 May Shannon lagoon Flax Ox eye Daisy Tormentil Ragged Robin 27 May Kilfenora, Noughaval, Cahermacnaughton, Abbey Hill. Heath Dog Violet Herb Robert Shining Cranesbill Hart's Tongue Fern Maidenhair Spleenwort Creeping Buttercup Alexanders Common Spotted Orchid Mouse-eared Hawkweed Common Twayblade Herb Bennet Primrose Salad Burnet Meadow Vetchling Cowslip Rough Hawkbit 28 May Hoary Rockrose Sea Spleenwort Opp. leaved Golden Saxifrage Thrift Butterwort Thyme Quaking grass Himalayan Knotweed Scurvy Grass Wood Sorrel Parsley Piert 29 May Lough Bunny, Kilmacduagh, Mullach Mor Heath Dog Violet Shrubby Potentilla Hazel Buckthorn Devil's Bit Scabious Biting Stonecrop 30 May Inishmaan,
Inisheer. Babbington's Leek Irish Saxifrage Hedgerow Cranesbill Sea Spurge Purple Milk-Vetch Petty Spurge Rock Samphire Field Madder 31 May Inisheer Marsh Marigold Ivy-leaved Toadflax Wild Strawberry Pyramidal Orchid 1 June Inisheer,
Cliffs of Moher Roseroot 2 June Craggaunowen Yellow Water lily.
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