TRAVELLING NATURALIST TRIP REPORT

Jordan - Birds & History

DAILY DIARY:

Weather: Generally hot and dry, though becoming overcast and windy on 3rd. Some light rain as we drove from Dana, south to Petra, turning thundery and heavy overnight. Drizzle and showers on 4th became extremely heavy and thundery overnight; in fact, Ghazi said that more rain fell overnight than most of the preceding winter! Low cloud on the morning of the 5th gradually lifted during the day, and we ended the week at Aqaba hot and sunny.

Thursday 29th March:

Arrival Arrival at Queen Alia International Airport, Amman, during the late afternoon, and transfer to our hotel.

Friday 30th March: Jerash

A leisurely breakfast and we departed at 08:30h, stopping first of all for a short walk along the Zarqa River. Two White-breasted Kingfishers immediately made their presence known from the Eucalypts across the river. We also quickly found Graceful Prinia, Ortolan Bunting and an Olivaceous Warbler in full song. Two Steppe Buzzards, the eastern race of Common Buzzard, were patrolling overhead, the bright reflected light highlighting their underparts wonderfully, and these were joined briefly by a very contrastingly plumaged dark phase bird - not a Long-legged Buzzard unfortunately! Continuing on to Jerash, everyone was struck by the enormity of this ancient site, most of which has yet to be fully investigated or is under the existing modern town. Distant views of wheatears tantalised us for a while until we found one or two close enough to identify them as Black-eared Wheatears, and we eventually saw both the black- and white-throated forms. A nice male Blue Rock Thrush was found on the top of one of the pillars. Butterflies included Swallowtail, Cleopatra, Small Skipper and Spotted Fritillary. An excellent lunch at a nearby Lebanese restaurant and we then headed for the pine-clad slopes of the Dibbin Forest. Being a Friday, these were swamped by picnics and families out for the day so birding was difficult. We did find Blackbird and the East Mediterranean race of Jay, with its distinctively-marked head plumage. Finally, we stopped again at the Zerqa River, this time driving a short distance down the riverside road. We explored a short stretch of farm track, finding Masked Shrike and a lovely male Palestine Sunbird in the Oleander scrub. Olivaceous and Cetti's Warblers were singing from the wet thicket in the valley and then a White-breasted Kingfisher flew over, carrying food. We eventually had stunning views through the telescope, looking down on the bird by the main river - an excellent end to an excellent day!

Saturday 31st March: East to Azraq

Another leisurely breakfast and we were soon on our way out of Amman, heading eastwards towards Azraq. We stopped at the desert castle of Qasr al-Harrana, one of the overnight stops for the ancient caravans which traded this route. A male Red-backed Shrike was found on the wire fence alongside the road, quickly followed by Stonechat, Blackcap and Lesser Whitethroat. The next stop was the Umayyad bathhouse at Qasr 'Amra where we saw two groups of Steppe Buzzards thermalling and drifting northeast. With these a nice male Hen Harrier and a dark-phase Booted Eagle which glided down and landed briefly in the wadi in front of us. A Woodchat Shrike was on the fence. We entered this small bathhouse to view the wall paintings, which unfortunately had been rather vandalised over the years. On then for lunch and a visit to Azraq Castle. Also called Lawrence's Castle, this was where he made his base for some time. A superb male Rock Thrush greeted us immediately on entry, followed soon after by a male Blue Rock Thrush and a rather superb Agama lizard with a generally pale colouration and bright blue ruff around the rear of its head. Finally, Shaumari certainly lived up to expectations, with many Black-eared and Northern Wheatears, Common Redstart, Black-headed and Blue-headed Wagtails, Marsh Harriers, Hoopoes, Woodchat and Southern Grey Shrikes, and these were just a sample from the bus as we approached the reserve entrance. We were taken to the observation tower from where we had very close views of a Marsh Harrier quartering the area below us. Onager and Arabian Oryx were visible on the reserve, and Ostrich and Reem (or Mountain) Gazelle were seen in the pens. Plans are nearing completion for the release of the Oryx in the Wadi Rum National Park. Rather overdue, we then checked in to the Azraq Lodge in time for dinner. This rather basic accommodation is run by the RSCN who are attempting to increase the eco-tourism in the area, and as such deserves our support.

Sunday 1st April: Azraq - Dana

A pre-breakfast trip to the Wetland Reserve just outside Azraq was well worthwhile. Although just a remnant of what was once Jordan's wetland jewel, we still found Squacco Heron, both Little and Great Bittern, Wryneck and Black-winged Stilts, Green Sandpiper and Common Snipe in front of the hide. After a brief look round a very impressive Interpretative Centre, we were back at the Lodge by 8.30 for breakfast. We made good time on the journey back towards Amman and then south along the Desert Highway, stopping briefly for a Brown-necked Raven and having lunch at Al-Qatrana. We were steadily climbing until just after Al-Qadisiyya, at which point the ground fell away and we were treated to a most spectacular view across Wadi Dana, with Wadi Araba in the distance. As usual with us, a brief photo stop lasted far longer, with Black-eared Wheatears just below us and in the distance, Rock Thrush, Blue Rock Thrush, Desert Lark and several Rock Sparrows. Finally a Fan-tailed Raven flew along the escarpment above us. We moved on to the Viewpoint immediately above Dana village and viewed the Griffon Vultures patrolling the cliffs, finding quite a few birds actually on the ledges. Having checked in at the guest-house, a brief walk through the village to the fields produced many Rock Martins, several Alpine and Pallid Swifts, and a brief view of a male Lesser Kestrel. Halfway through showering and changing for the evening, there were excited shouts of 'Come quickly!' Above the guesthouse, there were columns of Steppe Buzzards with smaller numbers of Steppe Eagles, two Short-toed Eagles and a single pale phase Booted Eagle. What a climax to great day!

Monday 2nd April: Dana Nature Reserve

Gathering on the balcony soon after dawn, the light on the cliffs opposite was superb. Chukars were calling below us and several Tristram's Grackles were flying about. We walked up the road past the village, finding good numbers of Rock Sparrows nesting in the cliffs. After breakfast, we loaded into the truck for the steep climb round to the Dana Campsite. Raptors were already moving, spirals of 20-30 birds thermalling up the slopes south of the camp and then gliding past or over us. An immature Golden Eagle showing white on the tail and primary bases set us off with a good start. The morning tally finally included some 600 birds, mainly Steppe Buzzards, but also some Steppe Eagles, Booted Eagles, Short-toed Eagles and Long-legged Buzzards. 30ºC in the shade meant we spent most of the time in 'the shady place', allowing excellent views out whilst keeping relatively cool. The afternoon brought four Egyptian Vultures and two European Bee-eaters over, with Desert Lark around the camp and several superb Palestine Sunbirds feeding amongst the Anchusa strigosa.

Tuesday 3rd April: Dana - Petra

Pre- and post-breakfast walks from the camp produced a brief Orphean Warbler and some fine views of Woodchat Shrikes and Desert Larks. Wood Larks were both singing vigorously and carrying food, presumably for young. We at last managed to find a Chukar, obtaining excellent views through the telescopes. Overhead, raptors were rather intermittent due to the cooler and overcast conditions, but there were spirals of birds every so often. Steppe Buzzards again predominated, but Steppe Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Sparrowhawk and Black Kites were also seen. During lunch, a further Egyptian Vulture was watched spiralling up from below us until it reached eye level and glided off northwards. After lunch, we packed up and travelled on to Petra, checking in at our hotel around 4pm.

Wednesday 4th April: Petra

Rain overnight, often heavy enough to wake us, meant a wet start. We delayed about half an hour to let the worst of the drizzle clear and the water running down the road ease. This actually meant that we missed most of the crowds and had a very easy walk down the road to the Siq, the narrow canyon leading into the site itself. On the way, a Mourning Wheatear was sheltering in a crevice and a small party of Sinai Rosefinches were feeding on seeds on the rocky slope. The Siq itself was most impressive, narrowing in parts to about ten feet wide and about a kilometre in length, but nothing really prepared us for that first glimpse of the Treasury at the far end. This was the start of an awe-inspiring tour round some of the site during the morning. Desert Lark and several Blackstarts were seen, with Fan-tailed Ravens, Pallid Swifts and Rock Martins overhead. After lunch, we separated to explore different parts, the intrepid few climbing the 800-odd steps to the Monastery - well worth the effort. Returning during the late afternoon, we found eight Sinai Rosefinches, again feeding on seeds on the slope, but this time right down at eye level. Few birds, but three species new for the trip and a great day in a truly magnificent setting.

Thursday 5th April: Wadi Rum & Aqaba

Our pre-breakfast walk took us to the grounds of the Petra Forum Hotel where there were various warblers feeding amongst the trees. Up on the rocky outcrop overlooking Wadi Mousa and the stables, we again found Mourning Wheatear and two rather damp looking Black-eared Wheatears, but best of all, a further male Rock Thrush. Some Red-rumped Swallows were feeding below us and a close Sinai Rosefinch was seen by some. Whilst waiting to load the bus, numerous Pallid Swifts and Rock Martins were feeding low over the green slope opposite the hotel. We headed directly for Wadi Rum, stopping briefly for our first White-crowned Wheatear, singing and displaying on the top of an outcrop. A further stop produced an Orphean Warbler and a lovely male Masked Shrike. Wadi Rum was of course simply awe-inspiring, the vastness of the desert being offset by the sheer beauty of the mountains. We took the jeep ride round a small part of the reserve, visiting Lawrence's Spring and then the chasm at Jabal Khazali with its ancient graffiti and drawings. Birds here were few apart from the Brown-necked Ravens. The Broom and other vegetation in the wadi near the chasm held numerous Lesser Whitethroats, together with a male Common Redstart, Blackcap, female Black-eared Wheatear and a Chiffchaff. A male Sinai Rosefinch also came down to investigate the parked jeeps.

After lunch and a brief stop to view the railway, we headed direct to Aqaba and checked in at our hotel around 4pm, in time for an hour's birding along the seafront allotments before dinner. Apart from people, who became more numerous as 'perambulation hour' approached, we had super views of Wryneck, Common Redstart, Common Nightingale, two Hoopoes, several Tree Pipits and loads of Lesser Whitethroats. This boded well for the morning!

Friday 6th April: Aqaba

The pre-breakfast walk along the seafront allotments produced little new except for a distant White-eyed Gull and parties of Common Terns moving north over the sea. Two Wrynecks were of interest. Then, after breakfast, we headed for the Aqaba Sewage Treatment Works. Two Little Green Bee-eaters were sitting on the fence by the security checkpoint, together with a male Pied Flycatcher. We walked down the tree-lined road, finding various warblers, Redstarts, and a small party of Arabian Babblers. Two species of Harriers, Black Kite and Steppe Buzzards struggled against the wind, heading northeast. At the pans, we were suddenly amongst waterfowl galore! - Shoveler, Pintail, Garganey, a lone Wigeon, Ruff, Snipe, Green & Common Sandpipers, Little Stint, Black-tailed Godwit, Spur-winged Plovers. At the large tanks, good numbers of gulls included many Lesser-Black-backed (of the jet black fuscus race from northern Scandinavia), a very few of the dark grey intermedius race from southern Scandinavia and several Caspian Gulls. Also loafing on the bunds were two immature Pallas's / Great Black-headed Gulls, four Slender-billed Gulls and two Caspian Terns. We finished with a superbly close Red-throated Pipit.

After lunch in Aqaba, we explored the Wadi Araba road past the airport as far as the Customs Checkpoint. Stopping occasionally for birds, we found mainly Black-eared Wheatears, with some female Northern Wheatears and single Isabelline and a female Desert Wheatear. A pair of Desert Larks and both Southern Grey and Woodchat Shrikes were also present. We then retraced our steps and continued on the coast road south of Aqaba, almost as far as the Royal Diving School, before returning to the hotel.

Saturday 7th April: Departure

Departure for the airport and our flight to Amman, connecting with the international flight back to Heathrow. A final species was added from the departure lounge at Aqaba - c.200 Greater Flamingos were visible on the water reservoirs across the border in Israel.

BIRD LIST:

(where ASF = Aqaba Sewage Farm)

Little Grebe / Dabchick: Noted only on 1 day, 6 ASF on 6th.

Great Cormorant: Noted only on 1 day, 1 ASF on 6th.

Grey Heron: Noted on 2 days with 1 Azraq on 1st, 30 ASF on 6th.

Cattle Egret: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Azraq on 1st.

Little Egret: Noted only on 1 day, 3 ASF on 6th.

Squacco Heron: Noted only on 1 day, 2 Azraq on 1st.

Little Bittern: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Azraq on 1st.

Great Bittern: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Azraq on 1st.

Greater Flamingo: Noted only on 1 day, c200 on 7th, seen from the airport on the reservoirs across the border in Israel.

Eurasian Wigeon: Noted only on 1 day, a male ASF on 6th.

Mallard: Noted on 2 days with a pair Azraq on 1st, 12 ASF on 6th.

Northern Pintail: Noted only on 1 day, 40 ASF on 6th.

Garganey: Noted only on 1 day, 30 ASF on 6th.

Northern Shoveler: Noted only on 1 day, 200 ASF on 6th.

Black Kite: Noted on 4 days with 8 Dana on 2nd, 3 Dana on 3rd, 2 Petra on 4th, 6 Aqaba area on 6th.

[Eurasian] Griffon Vulture: Noted on 3 days with c.20 along the cliffs of Wadi Dana on 1st, only ones and twos seen from campsite on 2nd & 3rd.

Egyptian Vulture: Noted on 3 days with 4 Dana on 2nd, 1 Dana on 3rd, 1 Petra on 4th.

Short-toed Eagle: Noted on 3 days with 2 Dana on 1st, 6 Dana on 2nd, 1 Dana on 3rd.

[Eurasian] Marsh Harrier: Noted on 3 days with 3 males Shaumari on 31st, a pair Azraq on 1st, a pair ASF on 6th.

Hen Harrier: Noted on 3 days with a male high over Amra on 31st, a possible over Dana on 2nd, 2 (ringtail & male) ASF on 6th.

Pallid Harrier: Noted only on 1 day, a female Dana on 2nd.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk: Noted on 6 days with 1 from bus on 30th, 1 Shaumari on 31st, 1 Dana on 1st, 3 Dana on 2nd, 2 Dana on 3rd, 2 ASF on 6th.

Steppe Buzzard: Noted most days with 5 Zarqa River & 3 Jerash on 30th, c.45 Amra on 31st, c.200 Dana on 1st, c.600 Dana on 2nd, c.300 Dana on 3rd, at least 100 over Wadi Rum on 5th, 6+ ASF on 6th.

Long-legged Buzzard: Noted on 4 days with 1 Shaumari on 31st, 1 above Dana on 1st, 14 Dana on 2nd, 1 Dana on 3rd.

Steppe Eagle: Noted on 4 days with c50 Dana on 1st, 35+ Dana on 2nd, 2 Dana on 3rd, 1 Wadi Araba on 6th.

Golden Eagle: Noted only on 1 day, an immature at Dana on 2nd.

Booted Eagle: Noted on 3 days with a dark phase bird over Amra on 31st, a pale phase Dana on 1st, 9 pale plus 3 dark phase birds Dana on 2nd.

Lesser Kestrel: Noted only on 1 day, a male N over Dana village on 1st.

Common / Eurasian Kestrel: Noted each day.

[Eurasian] Hobby: 1 N over Dana campsite on 2nd, seen briefly by GC, was probably this species.

Chukar: Noted on 3 days, heard at Dana on 1st & 2nd, birds seen at last on 3rd.

Common Quail: Noted only on 1 day, 1 beside the vehicle Wadi Araba on 6th.

Common Moorhen: Noted on 2 days with 2 Azraq on 1st, 3 ASF on 6th.

Common Coot: Noted on 2 days with 3 Azraq on 1st, 6 ASF on 6th.

Black-winged Stilt: Noted on 3 days with 1 Shaumari on 31st, 2 Azraq on 1st, 6 ASF on 6th.

Spur-winged Plover: Noted only on 1 day, at least 20 ASF on 6th.

Ringed or Little Ringed Plover: 1 at ASF on 6th was not positively identified.

Black-tailed Godwit: Noted only on 1 day, 1 ASF on 6th.

Common Redshank: Noted only on 1 day, 3 ASF on 6th.

Green Sandpiper: Noted on 3 days with 1 Shaumari on 31st, 1 Azraq on 1st, 6 ASF on 6th.

Common Sandpiper: Noted only on 1 day, 2 ASF on 6th.

Common Snipe: Noted on 2 days with 1 Azraq on 1st, 4 ASF on 6th.

Little Stint: Noted only on 1 day, 8 ASF on 6th.

Ruff: Noted only on 1 day, 10 ASF on 6th.

White-eyed Gull: Noted only on 1 day, an adult distantly off Aqaba on 6th.

Caspian Gull: Noted on 2 days with several distantly off Aqaba on 5th, 4 ASF on 6th.

Lesser Black-backed Gull: Noted only on 1 day, 200 fuscus race & 3 intermedius race ASF on 6th.

Great Black-headed / Pallas's Gull: Noted only on 1 day, 2 immatures ASF on 6th.

Black-headed Gull: Noted only at Aqaba on 6th.

Slender-billed Gull: Noted only on 1 day, 4 adults ASF on 6th.

Caspian Tern: Noted only on 1 day, 2 ASF on 6th.

Common Tern: Noted only on 1 day, 70 N off Aqaba on 6th.

Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon: Noted each day, including 'pure-plumaged' wild birds at various sites. Multi-coloured feral birds tended to be around human habitation.

[Eurasian] Collared Dove: Noted most days.

Laughing Dove: Noted each day.

European Turtle Dove: Noted on 2 days with a bird heard purring at Dana on 2nd, seen there on 3rd.

Rose-ringed / Ring-necked Parakeet: Noted on 4 days with 15 around hotel on 30th, 1 Amman & 3 Shaumari on 31st, 1 Aqaba on 5th, 5 Aqaba on 6th.

Common Cuckoo: Noted on 3 days with a bird heard Dana on 1st, up to 3 seen and heard Dana on 2nd & 3rd.

European Scops Owl: Noted on 3 days, heard calling at Dana on 1st - 3rd.

Alpine Swift: Noted only on 1 day, 4+ over Dana on 1st.

Common Swift: Noted on 2 days with 4 Wadi Rum on 5th, several ASF on 6th.

Pallid Swift: Noted on 5 days with up to 20 Dana on 1st - 3rd, then at Petra on 4th, and Petra & Wadi Rum on 5th.

White-breasted Kingfisher: Noted only on 1 day, a pair seen twice along Zarqa River on 30th.

Little Green Bee-eater: Noted only on 1 day, 3 ASF on 6th.

European Bee-eater: Noted on 2 days with 3 N Dana on 2nd, 3 ASF on 6th.

Hoopoe: Noted each day.

Eurasian Wryneck: Noted on 3 days with 1 Azraq on 1st, 1 Aqaba on 5th, 2 Aqaba on 6th.

Desert Lark: Noted on 6 days with 1 above Dana Viewpoint on 1st, up to 4 Dana campsite on 2nd & 3rd, several Petra on 4th, several Wadi Rum on 5th, 2 Wadi Araba on 6th.

Crested Lark: Noted on 4 days with several Jerash on 30th, then along the roadside on 31st, 1st & 2nd.

Wood Lark: Noted only on 1 day, a male singing & another with food for young at Dana on 3rd.

Sand Martin: Noted on 2 days with 5+ Azraq on 1st, 6 ASF on 6th.

Rock Martin: Noted on 5 days, 40+ Dana village on 1st, then common around Dana campsite on 2nd & 3rd, Petra on 4th, and Petra & Wadi Rum on 5th.

Barn Swallow: Noted most days.

Red-rumped Swallow: Noted on 5 days with 2 from the bus on 30th, 2 Dana on 2nd, 6 Petra on 4th, at least 5 Petra on 5th, 4 ASF on 6th.

House Martin: Noted on 3 days with many at Jerash on 30th, 1 Dana on 3rd, 20 Wadi Rum on 5th.

Yellow Wagtail: Noted on 3 days with 10+ Black-headed race (M f feldegg) at Shaumari on 31st, 2 Blue-headed race (M f flava) at Aqaba on 5th & 6th.

White Wagtail: Noted on 4 days, on 30th & 31st, and at Aqaba on 5th & 6th.

Tree Pipit: Noted on 2 days with 3 Aqaba on 5th, 1 Aqaba on 6th.

Red-throated Pipit: Noted only on 1 day, 1 ASF on 6th.

[White-]Spectacled / Yellow-vented Bulbul: Noted each day.

Southern Grey Shrike: Noted on 2 days with 1 Shaumari on 31st, 1 Wadi Araba on 6th.

Woodchat Shrike: Noted on 5 days with 2 on 31st, 1 Dana on 2nd, 5 Dana plus another from bus on 3rd, 1 above Petra from bus on 5th, 1 Wadi Araba on 6th.

Red-backed Shrike: Noted only on 1 day, a male at Qasr al-Harrana on 31st.

Masked Shrike: Noted on 4 days with 1 Zarqa River on 30th, a male Petra on 4th, a male Wadi Rum & a female Aqaba on 5th, single females at Aqaba & ASF on 6th.

Rock Thrush: Noted on 3 days with single males at Azraq Castle & RSCN Lodge on 31st, a male above Dana on 1st, a male Petra on 5th.

Blue Rock Thrush: Noted on 4 days with a male Jerash & a female Zarqa River on 30th, 1 Azraq Castle on 31st, a male above Dana on 1st, 2 Petra on 4th.

[Common] Blackbird: Noted on 5 days with a few at Dibbin Forest & Amman on 30th, Amman on 31st, and Dana on 1st - 3rd.

Common Nightingale: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Aqaba on 5th.

Bluethroat: Noted only on 1 day, 6+ Azraq on 1st.

Black Redstart: Noted on 2 days with 1 Azraq on 31st, 1 Petra on 5th.

Common Redstart: Noted on 4 days, all males, with 2 at Shaumari on 31st, then singles at Azraq & Dana on 1st, Wadi Rum & Aqaba on 5th, Aqaba & ASF on 6th.

Stonechat: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Qasr al-Harrana on 31st.

White-crowned [Black] Wheatear: Noted only on 1 day, 4 Wadi Rum on 5th.

Northern Wheatear: Noted on 5 days with 3 Shaumari on 31st, 2 males Dana on 2nd, a male Dana on 3rd, a male Petra on 5th, several Wadi Araba on 6th.

Mourning Wheatear: Noted on 2 days with 4 Petra on 4th, a pair Petra on 5th.

Black-eared Wheatear: Noted each day with 6 Jerash on 30th, 12+ during day on 31st, lots throughout day on 1st, male on territory Dana on 2nd, on territory Dana on 3rd, several Petra on 4th, 1 or 2 females Petra & Wadi Rum on 5th, and Wadi Araba on 6th.

Desert Wheatear: Noted only on 1 day, a female Wadi Araba on 6th.

Isabelline Wheatear: Noted on 2 days with 1 Azraq on 31st, 1 Wadi Araba on 6th.

Blackstart: Noted only on 1 day, 6 at Petra on 4th.

Arabian Babbler: Noted only on 1 day, 3 ASF on 6th.

Graceful Prinia / Warbler: Noted on 3 days with many at Zarqa River on 30th, seen singing Azraq on 1st, 1 ASF on 6th.

Cetti's Warbler: Noted only on 1 day, heard Zarqa River on 30th.

[Eurasian] Reed Warbler: Noted only on 1 day, good numbers Azraq on 1st.

Olivaceous Warbler: Noted on 2 days with several along the Zarqa River on 30th, 1 Aqaba on 5th.

Blackcap: Noted on 5 days with a male Qasr al-Harrana on 31st, a male Dana on 3rd, 5+ Petra on 4th, 4 Petra & singles Wadi Rum & Aqaba on 5th, a male Aqaba on 6th.

Lesser Whitethroat: Noted most days.

Orphean Warbler: Noted on 4 days with singles at Dana on 1st - 3rd, and at Wadi Rum on 5th.

Chiffchaff: Noted on 6 days, fewer birds and less often seen than Lesser Whitethroats.

Pied Flycatcher: Noted only on 1 day, a male ASF on 6th.

Great Tit: Noted on 4 days with many in the forest on 30th, several seen and heard singing Dana on 1st - 3rd.

Palestine Sunbird: Noted on 6 days with a male Zarqa River on 30th, a male Dana village on 1st, several pairs Dana campsite & reserve on 2nd & 3rd, a pair Petra on 4th, 2 Petra and another at Wadi Rum on 5th.

Eurasian Jay: Noted only on 1 day, several of the distinctively-plumaged East Mediterranean race Garrulus glandarius atricapillus on 30th.

[Indian] House Crow: Noted on 2 days, numerous at Aqaba on 5th & 6th.

Hooded Crow: Noted on 2 days, on 30th & 31st.

Brown-necked Raven: Noted on 3 days with 2 Shaumari on 31st, 1 en route on 1st, at least 70 Wadi Rum on 5th.

Fan-tailed Raven: Noted on 5 days with 1 above Dana village on 1st, 2 Dana campsite on 2nd & 3rd, at least 3 Petra on 4th & 5th.

Tristram's Starling / Grackle: Noted on 4 days with 7 Dana guesthouse on 1st, 8 Dana guesthouse on 2nd, 1 Dana campsite on 3rd, 2 Petra on 4th.

Ortolan Bunting: Noted only on 1 day, 1 Zarqa River on 30th.

[European] Greenfinch: Noted on 2 days with singles at Amman on 31st, and Dana on 2nd.

[European] Goldfinch: Noted on 2 days, 2 at Dana on 1st & 2nd.

[Common] Linnet: Noted on 2 days with 2 Dana on 2nd, several Dana on 3rd.

Sinai Rosefinch: Noted on 2 days with 12 Petra on 4th, 2 Petra and a male Wadi Rum on 5th.

House Sparrow: Noted each day.

Spanish Sparrow: Noted only on 1 day, at Azraq & Shaumari on 31st.

Rock Sparrow / Petronia: Noted on 2 days with 4 above Dana viewpoint on 1st, 20 Dana village on 2nd.

BUTTERFLIES and other selected insects:

Swallowtail: Noted on 2 days, 30th & 1st.

Small White: Noted on 2 days, 30th & 1st.

Green-veined White: Noted only on 30th.

Eastern Bath White: Noted on 5 days, 30th - 3rd.

Clouded Yellow: Noted on 4 days, 30th & 1st - 3rd.

Cleopatra: Noted only on 30th.

African Grass Blue: Noted only on 6th at ASF.

Common Blue: Noted on 2 days, 30th & 3rd.

Painted Lady: Noted on 3 days, 30th, 2nd & 3rd.

Spotted Fritillary: Noted on 4 days, 30th & 1st - 3rd.

Small Skipper: Noted only on 30th.

Red-winged Grasshopper: Noted on 2 days, 30th & 2nd.

MAMMALS:

Bat sp: Unidentified bats were noted at Dana on 2nd.

Red Fox: Calls heard at Dana in morning on 3rd were probably this species.

Lesser Mole Rat: 'Mole hills' were found at Dana on 3rd.

Crested Porcupine: A quill was found at Dana on 3rd.

Cape Hare: Burrows at Wadi Rum on 5th, though no animals were seen.

Also, at Shaumari on 31st, captive Ostrich (I know it's not a mammal!), Arabian Oryx, Onager / Wild Ass, and Reem / Mountain Gazelle (Gazella gazella) were seen.

REPTILES & other taxa:

Various Agama lizards were noted at Jerash, Azraq and Dana, the identification of which needs investigation. Also, a Rock or Wall Lizard species (Lacerta / Podarcis sp) and a Gecko species found at Jerash and Dana. A small 4-5" snake was seen at Dana and various Millipedes (also 4-5" long) seen at Jerash.

SELECTED PLANTS: [Nos. on right refer to Grey-Wilson & Blamey, Mediterranean Wild Flowers]

Refer also to Al-Eisawi, D.M.H., Field guide to Wild Flowers of Jordan & Neighbouring Countries.

The ever-present Mimosa, Oleander and White Broom were regularly seen throughout the trip. At Dibbin Forest, the dominant trees were Aleppo Pine and Kermes Oak. Moving east, Pistacios were a feature at Wadi al Butm near Qasr 'Amra, and at Shaumari, the stands of mature Eucalypt and Casuarina were visible as an 'island' in the desert from many miles distant. Dana was, well, just dramatic with its very rocky environs. On the slopes, the open woodland was being extended by planting large areas of oak, pine and juniper.

Pinaceae: Pinus halepensis Aleppo Pine (1)

Cupressaceae: Juniperus phoenicea Phoenicean Juniper (17)

Fagaceae: Quercus coccifera

subsp. calliprinos Kermes Oak (24)

Amaryllidaceae: Ixiolirion tataricum Ixiolirion

Caryophyllaceae: Paronychia argentea Silvery Whitlow-wort (136)

Ranunculaceae: Adonis palaestina Pheasant's-Eye (c.220)

Ranunculus asiaticus Turban Buttercup (257)

Leguminosae: Lygos (=Retama) raetam White Broom (479)

Geraniaceae: Erodium gruinum Long-beaked Stork's-bill (757)

Anacardiaceae: Pistachia atlantica Atlantic Pistacio (864)

Malvaceae: Althaea setosa Hollyhock (907)

Cistaceae: Cistus creticus 'Pink-flowered' Sun-rose (962)

Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved Sun-rose (965)

Helianthemum lippii 'yellow fls' Rock-rose

Helianthemum vesicarium 'pink fls' Rock-rose

Primulaceae: Cyclamen persicum Persian Cyclamen (1210)

Convolvulaceae: Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweed (1331)

Boraginaceae: Anchusa strigosa 'Spiky' Alkanet (1410)

Solanaceae: Hyoscyamus aureus Yellow Henbane (1554)

Scrophulariaceae: Scrophularia peyronii Figwort (1591)

Orobanchaceae: Cistanche tubulosa Yellow Broomrape (c.1654)

Liliaceae: Urginea maritima Sea Squill (2163)

Ornithogalum sp. Star-of-Bethlehem (c.2171)

Bellevalia sp. (c.2196)

The mix of birds and history, I hope, struck just the right balance. It was a great shame that we had a wet day at Petra but I'm sure this must still count as the highlight of the trip, although Jerash comes a close second. I was really pleased with our morning at Aqaba Sewage Farm and the raptor passage at Dana, though I'm sure some of you will also particularly remember our visit to Shaumari and their very successful breeding programme for the Arabian Oryx.

Thank you to Ghazi for his infinite knowledge of his country's history and our driver, Bassam, for his driving skills, and stopping skills when we saw a bird of interest! Thanks also, of course, to the excellent travel arrangements by Discovery and to Ghassan for meeting us on arrival and easing our entry through immigration.

I do hope to meet you all again in the not-too-distant future.

Keith Grant, April 2001.

© The Travelling Naturalist 2001